Cracked 3 Way Diverter Valve

Kwhite04

Member
Apr 27, 2020
10
Ocoee, FL
Hey TFP!

I recently noticed a crack in my diverter valve and was curious to hear what my options are. Long story short, I have this big ol tree that I am getting removed soon because it is lifting my equipment pad and eventually will do the same to my pool house. I'm wondering if it's worth the investment of having a local company come out, pour a new pad, replumb the equipment and get it all nice and settled VS. just trying to fix this singular problem myself. Would really like opinions on that as well.

Anyway, here are the pictures. I think I'm going to have to cut it at the elbows from the heater, add a diverter, add a check valve. I wish there was an easy way to save the check valve but I don't have a blow torch or anything like that to get the PVC out. Is my general idea correct or am I missing something big? Thanks in advance!

PS: Ignore my terrible flextape job, I just wanted to see if it could help even a little bit. Shockingly it seems like it did.
 

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My mother always told me, "Do it right the first time." So I do. I'd get the pad done. That looks like a stress crack. My guess is that without a stable pad, you will get more stress cracks.

As for saving PVC, like the check valve, search for "PVC Socket saver" on google, and youtube, so you can see how they work.
 
It's the hardest advice to follow sometimes, since it is a hard hit to the wallet in this case. I agree the shifting has cause this crack, I tried my best to "level" the pad last summer but I'm fighting against a tree and losing. Thanks for your advice!
 
Excuse my ignorance, if I'm cutting in that super small cap in between the check valve and diverter, I'd then need to take a PVC socket saver to it.

OR I could have a larger coupling go over the top (like in your image) and just leave the cut PVC in there? Is that the advantage of the coupler?