Underwater Splicing Pool Light Wires

Lodestar

Gold Supporter
Aug 27, 2024
6
Sanur, Bali, Indonesia
Pool Size
135000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
Moved from old thread HERE

My 10 meter pool was blessed with six pool lights by my builder. Great for swimming laps, but overkill. A decade later, those lights are failing from UV, chemicals and general shoddiness. They are not easily replaced, but I have found some on Amazon that seem similar. Amazon.com : Eapmic 12V 25W Pool Light Underwater Color-Change LED Lights RGB IP68 with Remote (25W) : Garden & Outdoor

The problem is that the existing lights are cabled through a lot of concrete back to the equipment room. Thus, the new lights have to be connected by snipping the original cable and splicing them into the new underwater. While I am not going to electrocute anybody with 12 VDC, I would prefer the current go to the light rather than dissipate in the water and have connection electrólisis.

Any thoughts on a truly watertight connector (small has to fit behind light) that I can use to join these cables?

Your thoughts appreciated.

Peter
May I ask how your splicing turned out? I just ran such a question through ChatGPT, and the answer was pretty good (attached). But I'd love to learn from your actual experience. My splices to date have worked poorly. Plus the non-bulb, circular disk style LED pool lights that my contractor used (i.e., no lamp niches) continuously fail. So this is an ongoing problem. First, I'll try to extend the cable.

[Yes, of course, it would wonderful if every installation had conduit with cable that could be pulled through, but this is the real world!]
 
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I just installed 7 new lights in my new pool. My initial thought is don't cut the wire! Under water splices are very difficult and not necessary for most brand LED lights since you can buy them with a new 50-150' cord (varies a little with brand). But I looked at the lights you are considering and they don't seem to be supplied this way. If you have to splice I'd make sure you use a kit specifically designed for prolonged underwater service. They make really good ones for submersible well pumps I've used for years but you have to be very meticulous. It looks to me that you'll have to pull the existing light out and pull enough wire that you can work on the surface. You should be able to find vertical 1" grey conduit near your pool pad with wires that connect to 12v transformer output. Disconnect the wire at that end and make a splice with some strong parachute twine. This will become your "messenger" to pull the new light cord back. There are some newer 3rd party lights on the market that are made in Australia that actually have an under water connector in the fitting. I'm testing 3 of them in my pool on the sundeck/baby ledge. Pulling the wire back with splices is going to require patience or you'll pull the splice apart. I would try to reinforce it with some cord wrapped on the exterior and covered with tape. I found that just gradually pulling hard instead of tugging just didn't work. If you don't replace with identical lights and you use automation be aware you'll need to adjust your software configuration so the color selected matches the actual. Several of the lights available now can be programmed to emulate any of the major automation systems. I guess you're planning to use the remote that comes with your lights but I would guess with a little configuration work you could use your existing automation. By the way it would be great for us and you if you could fill in your signature. Helps our volunteer experts be efficient with their time and helps you get quicker responses. It's easy, here's how.

Good luck to you and please keep us posted on this project. May be a great low cost solution for all of us if it works!

Chris