ajw22 said:

See post #28 in this thread....

You can turn the heater off or on from the outdoor panel.

Third button from the right.

Or put the panel in SERVICE mode, turn on the Filter Pump, and turn off the heater.

Click to expand...

BTW the heater button doesn't turn it off when in auto.

I had to switch into service, turn the pump back on (first button) and leave it that was so the pump operates.

If I switch back to auto, the heater turns back on.

I will have to wait until the app is fixed... Which seems like forever right now.

Show a photo of your pool. A SLAM can last days or over a week.
Depends on how often you test and raise FC back up to SLAM level.
We can guide you.
Do you have a recommended test kit with FAS/DPD testing for FC?
With CYA of 30 your SLAM FC target is 12ppm.
Buy at least 10 gals of liquid chlorine. Turn off your SWCG. Lower pH to 7.2 before starting.
Print out and refer to the SLAM Process often.
What is your current filter pressure. What type of filter to you have?

Ask questions if you are unsure. It has worked for thousands of new members.

This link works https://leg.iaqualink.net/ from a reddit post.

Geargoesdown said:

I turned on my heater this afternoon. Went to check the temperature and can’t login. How do I turn the heater off without the app?

Click to expand...

See post #28 in this thread....

You can turn the heater off or on from the outdoor panel.

Third button from the right.



Or put the panel in SERVICE mode, turn on the Filter Pump, and turn off the heater.

I feel as though this has been going on for the last several days. The WiFi module is connected just fine to the internet. It has to be on their side with their servers. It seems like that have been having issues all week. Very frustrating.

I turned on my heater this afternoon. Went to check the temperature and can’t login. How do I turn the heater off without the app?

We’ve never had an issue until today. Frustrating. Still down.

Parac said:

Seems to be back up now.

Click to expand...

Comes and goes.

I am unable to login via app or website.

1. Thanks for the tips on the TA measurement. Turns out it’s 50ppm, not 40ppm. Also saw the same from the Taylor video. I’m surprised the TF-Pro one-sheet has wrong instructions, “continue until the color changes to red” is very different than “keep adding drops, even if it’s red, until the color stops changing”.

2. Attaching my latest measurements including salt and CSI Index. WDYT?

Down for us too since 4:00 central. Very frustrating.

JMPool99 said:

Just went down for me again today 5/16/2025. Anyone else experiencing down? Ridiculous. The app is so simple and so shoddy as is.

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Yes mine down too. Cant log in

Might be worth a trip to the hardware store to look for something that can serve as a plug until the adapter arrives. It's super important to get an exact match with the threads on the adapter.

Otoh I wouldn't be surprised if Jandy uses a random non-standard thread. They do that in other areas like SWG unions.

Seems to be back up now.

Also - how many days should I expect this to take?

JohnLand said:

Need some equipment advice, currently don’t have automation so spillway is running all the time when the pump is on, I know that can raise ph. Constantly out of town for couple days for work, so unable to adjust valves manually everyday. do I need to install an automation system or constant spillway running ok.

Thanks

Click to expand...

I had a system where there was a return to the spa constantly when in Pool mode (in addition to returns to the pool). Could not changed it easily as the plumbing was underground. Fortunately my spa was level with the pool (not an elevated spa), so I just put my water level a little higher for the whole pool and with the VS pump on low speed it was more of a dribble over the spillway so it was not affecting my pH much.

Noreaster said:

Here is the North America phone number.

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Useless as they don't answer. Ever.

The nodejspoolcontroller is probably the standard. You can check out @MyAZPool and @Katodude profiles.

a curious question. i see lots of you here use SWCG on their pools. are you able to use this on an above ground steel pool? I thought I read that it is not recommended due to salt corrosion.

All,

Just put the panel in service mode and use the buttons on the outdoor panel to control the pool / spa.

ajw22 said:

iAquaLink Not Connecting

Could iAquaLink be down? I can’t even login to their application or website. Router shows green but I can’t even login to see my pool. Ideas? When I attempt to login it says action required network not available.

www.troublefreepool.com

Aqualink down?

Is anyone else having trouble using the Aqualink App at the moment? It’s asking me to re-login and then saying the network is unavailable. Tried power cycling the main board to no effect. It’s behaving like their servers are down.

www.troublefreepool.com

Click to expand...

I'm having the exact same problem and haven't found a solution yet

Sometimes, it's just not worth the time and effort to replace the gasket and you are better off just replacing the whole valve.

Thank you! I will share pictures tomorrow. Very helpful description. If I find the fixture ought to be replaced, what do you recommend? I have a Pentair automation system (don't ask me which one but it does end with a "4" PLS4+?) that has some kind of function to control lighting scenes.

I can't pump the water into the pool because the level is super high right now and if anything I need to drain some water off. The level is already slightly over the little pass through between the spa area and the pool area. I guess I can just dump the spa water and refill it with pool water but this way I theoretically don't have to waste water. But sure, in theory, yes, I could just pump it into the pool!

mknauss said:

Use your own test kit.

Leslies states 'adjusted alkalinity' to get you to buy their high price baking soda.

With your fill water, you NEVER need to add baking soda.

Click to expand...

Ok. Thank you. I have never added baking soda since I started with TFP.

poolmom21 said:

Also, I was advised to buy a liquid to reduce phosphates? How to I lower it using the TFP method?

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They are trying to persuade you to purchase their very expensive watered down phosphate remover called Perfect Weekly. Do not buy it.
As noted by others, phosphate is not important if you maintain proper FC levels based on your CYA level.

Newdude said:

Trust the drop test across the board. For salt too. The cell and poolstore can be off there by a wide margin.

What does your k1766 say for salt ? (Please say you have one or the TF100salt equivalent. )

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I do!! And made the mistake of going off the reading on the system instead of testing. I know I know if mistake. I just did the test and it reads at 3800 so I’ll need to drain like 12 inches. I was adviced to drain 2 feet.