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Nathan Johnson
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Another Mastertemp 400 question ....

T
swamprat69 said:
Is your heater supply voltage 240V? How are you measuring voltage at the F1 and F2 contacts on the Fenwal? Hopefully not individually to ground! If so, F1 will read 120V to ground as 1 leg of the supply to the motor and F2 will read 120V to ground as the second leg of the motor supply voltage "through the motor windings"! If the motor runs at 240V, the only way to check the F1/F2 Fenwal contacts "using voltage" is to check the voltage from F1 to F2 directly. It should read 240V when the relay is not pulled in and 0V when the relay is pulled in. Another way to check the relay contacts would be to pull off the wires at F1 and F2 and check continuity between F1 and F2. It should read infinite ohms with the relay not pulled in and 0 to very low ohms with the relay pulled in.
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Dang, yes I measured each side (F1/F2) individually to ground! And yes they each showed 120v.
I'm not home till Sunday but I'll check exactly as you described.

Many thanks to you and ajw for your help, this has gotten me twisted up a bit trying to sort.
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Constant spillway automation needed

Jimrahbe
John,

Your return valve is right after your new salt cell...

I assume, you have this valve set to shut off any spa spillover... Is this true??

If so, you know that to get the spillover to work, this valve has to be open, at least some, to allow extra water to go to the spa, causing the spa to spillover..

If you added an actuator to this valve, then it would be in the position where it is now, when you did not want a spillover. When you did want a spillover, the actuator would open this valve and allow water to go to your spa..

If you plan to get an IntelliFlo3, you could also get the relay card, so you could use it as a timer.. (I think anyway..) Did you already have plans to use the relay card option for anything other than your salt cell??

Thanks,

Jim R.
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Hayward ProLogic Automation and Chlorination Display GLX-PL-LOC-P-4 down button not working

mas985
timkorver said:
the down button is the ONLY button that does not work.. all others work. Any ideas? the chlorination setting is now set to 100% because i used up arrow to try to get back to lowest setting. i removed both ends of the connection/ connectors but no help. thanks
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If you can't fix the keypad and you don't want to purchase another display unit, this is what I did:

AQL-PS-8 Remote Emulator App

A couple months ago, I started to have problems with my AquaLogic PS8 wireless remote. It frequently showed "The base receiver is not responding" which usually only lasted for a short period of time due to weak signal levels. But this time, it lasted for nearly a half day and eventually it...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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Free Chlorine issue

R
PoolStored said:
Your pump, running 12 hours per day costs about $45/month, at $.15/KWh.
If you bought and installed a Calimar 1.5hp VSP, and ran it 24/7 at 1400, it would cost you about $10/month.
Payback would be the cost of the pump, about $500 / $35 per month of use or about 14 months, with a 5 month season, payback would be about 3 years.
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thank you for that information. worth considering.
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New EVO 614i Robot Pool Cleaner Review

Jimrahbe
whatdidigetmyselfinto said:
is the "app" useful?
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W,

It is not useful for me... The main thing the app does it allows you to schedule the robot to run... You can schedule the robot to run once a day, at any time during that day..

For some, this is a must.. For others like me, I put the robot in only when I need to, so scheduling does not make a lot of sense.. A 604, would work just fine for me.

Thanks,

Jim R.
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8,000 Gallons Best Way Pool

adampatt
I am stumped. I’ve went through polyshere balls, sand, and now on glass media. (Bright line Brand). I still use the regular pump that came with the pool. I know it’s not the best.

The pool sat all winter, and I didn’t winterize it with nothing. So it was pretty green to start. I got it all cleared up and it’s like a blue color, but it won’t clear up for nothing. Stays cloudy. Been letting the filter run for 3-4 days straight.

I think I went to heavy on the chlorine and the stabilizer as my CYA is reading over 200, and my CHlorine on my kit only shows up to 10 with a dark yellow color, well mine is almost like a dark orange/brown after doing the drops. So it’s far beyond the actual 10ppm of chlorine. Would this be the reason the pool is staying cloudy?

The PH and Alkalinity is perfect. Right at the balanced levels.

My hardness is a little low as well at 100. So not sure if that has anything to do with anything. But I’ve ran claifier, phosphate, and everything to try and get all the dead algae out, and it never cleared.

So I’m currently draining half of the water and re filling with fresh water to try and balance out the chlorine and cya since there through the roof.

I can’t really vacuum the pool with this pool as there is no connections for it. So I can use floculant. It looks as most everything is broken up and dead anyways. It’s very small particles that are white on top of water. Not much. When you touch it with your hand it’s like they dissolve/disappear.
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Another Mastertemp 400 question ....

swamprat69
Is your heater supply voltage 240V? How are you measuring voltage at the F1 and F2 contacts on the Fenwal? Hopefully not individually to ground! If so, F1 will read 120V to ground as 1 leg of the supply to the motor and F2 will read 120V to ground as the second leg of the motor supply voltage "through the motor windings"! If the motor runs at 240V, the only way to check the F1/F2 Fenwal contacts "using voltage" is to check the voltage from F1 to F2 directly. It should read 240V when the relay is not pulled in and 0V when the relay is pulled in. Another way to check the relay contacts would be to pull off the wires at F1 and F2 and check continuity between F1 and F2. It should read infinite ohms with the relay not pulled in and 0 to very low ohms with the relay pulled in.
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add 1.5" unions to be able to easily remove filter

B
Here is a picture of my Hayward 244T. I have a SWG attached. I am planning on replacing the sand in the filter. I am 16 years owner and don't know if original owner has changed the sand. I have been getting sand in the return last year.

I want an easy way to disconnect my filter from the plumbing. I figured 1.5" unions, but the way the piping is i don't think two of them(intake and return) will fit. Was thinking just putting one on top, but really don't think there is clearance for that.

Any thoughts on best way to do it?

Thanks for any help!
Brian
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robot pool skimmer recommendations

Buggs
Aiper has upped the ante in the pool skimmer battle with their new Surfer S2. In a previous post, I mentioned some attributes that the Aiper Surfer S1/M1 features. The S2 retains most of these qualities and adds several improvements.

Compared to the S1, the S2:
  • Adds pool-edge cleaning. Aiper is vague on how this works, other than showing the skimmer will run along the pool edge. Still, a welcome intent.
  • Has a larger battery: 5.2K mAh vs. the S1’s 4K mAh: Claimed battery life is now 35 hours.
  • Faster charging time for both solar and DC charging.
  • Improved solar panel for faster solar-reactivation from a low-battery state
  • Self-Rescue algorithm to free itself when stuck. This is a consideration for us since I have a Negative-Edge pool.
  • Finer mesh 150um vs 200um
  • Optical sensors replace the S1 Ultrasonic. Not sure if this is an actual improvement or just a wash.
  • The Aiper App now includes Scheduled Cleaning: Seems this might extend the units lifetime since the skimmer would be operating only when desired rather than 24/7.
  • Salt Chlorine Tolerant (SCT) Motors. (Gotta keep up with Betta)
  • Standard 2-year warranty vs 1-year for the S1.
Downsides: The basket size has dropped from 5 liters to 4 liters. This is not an issue for most of the year, but in the fall when leaves start dropping, even 5 liters is woefully inadequate for me. This is an unfortunate backslide.

Quirky: Aiper added a pocket in the skimmer basket which is intended for a chlorine puck. Even speaking as a pool owner who chlorinates with Trichlor, this is silly. If my robotic skimmer is sitting motionless in the pool for any length of time, I would not want to soak it in an acidic chlorine bath.

Then there’s the price: $339.99 at the Aiper store. In addition, they currently have a “one-hour-only” 5% discount offer.

I put my money where my mouth is. I placed an order for a Surfer S2 this morning for $323.00/ No tax, no shipping charge. We’ll see if it lives up to the hype.
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De, Alage or Calcium buildup?

R
Hello. At the end of last season I started to see deposits on the pool floor every day. I ended up closing the pool unresolved. I opened the pool last week with a ripped cover and a green pool. I started the slam process and my pool went from green to turquoise to clear. Except for the same problem as last year. I ordered more solutions for my Taylor test kit and they are coming tomorrow. Can someone tell me what this looks like in the mean time? I plan to take apart everything this weekend to see what’s going on. It’s a fiberglass pool. Thank you.
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