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ducknc · Friday at 5:21 PM

ducknc · Friday at 5:21 PM

ducknc · Friday at 5:21 PM

HermanTX · Friday at 5:20 PM

malimited said:
Im really dense, so I want to make sure I understand completely...really appreciate it. I marked up a picture, is this correct?

The 3-way valve is designed only to be in 3 positions, unless someone modifies it.
Your skimmer 3-way valve can only be in either 12, 3 or 6 position (the valve handle). Remove the 9 position from your mark up photo

The 3-way valve in front of the pump can only be in either 3, 9 or 12 position (the valve handle). Remove the 6 position from your mark up photo.

rachel🌊 · Friday at 5:19 PM

hello! our cartridge filter has been leaking from the nozzle for a while and my partner attempted to fix it today. it’s a sta-rite filter.

here’s what he’s tried so far:
- used a threaded male adapter and teflon tape to connect to the filter
- tried bonding with rubber cement

neither of those worked - any other ideas?

rachel🌊 · Friday at 5:19 PM

ajw22 · Friday at 5:18 PM

Beth0277 said:
They also mentioned adding a lot of liquid chlorine (like the slam method) can cause damage. Is that true?

Whoever said that does not understand how CYA buffers chlorine.

CYA Chlorine Relationship - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

The SLAM Process is safe when our FC/CYA charts are followed...

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.

www.troublefreepool.com

ducknc · Friday at 5:16 PM

ajw22 said:
You have three problems you are trying to fix:

Needing to run your booster pump

Water splashing out of the pool

Erosion of the spa area from the water flow

For 1...

What RPM is the filter pump running at?

For 3...

You can enable SPILLOVER mode with S1 dip switch #3 on the main panel. When S1 switch #3 is on, AUX3 becomes the spillover control. If you have any relay connected to AUX3, you need to move it to an available Aux position.

With Spillover turned on by AUX3, the POOL/SPA return valve will move to the SPA position. Water will be suctioned out of the pool through the skimmers and returned to the spa.

The cam on the return actuator may need to be reset to fully close the spa return when in POOL mode.

I need to see larger, clearer pictures to see the details of your equipment and where your valves are set.

For 2 ...

Your builder does not know what he is doing and just trying things blindly.

I would put some bricks or blocks of wood to block the water on the sides of the spillover in the red areas below and find how far you need to cut back the spillover to keep the water from splashing out of the pool.

View attachment 646699

The above was the original design. They have since made the spillway smaller as seen in the following photo. Water still hits the ledge at times with booster pump running and all the time when booster pump off.

ducknc · Friday at 5:16 PM

JamesW · Friday at 5:15 PM

Can you post a full set of readings?

Get Poolmath and begin tracking all readings.

PoolMath

JohnFlyer · Friday at 5:14 PM

I have the spa return side very slightly open now, I did not plan on getting the relay card for the Intelliflo, was just going to keep the salt cell wired to the old timer.

Beth0277 · Friday at 5:13 PM

They also mentioned adding a lot of liquid chlorine (like the slam method) can cause damage. Is that true?

ajw22 · Friday at 5:10 PM

Intermittent problems are the most difficult to diagnose.

You have to catch it in the act.

I would check the connections from the circuit breaker powering the EasyTouch transformer to the connector on the PCB. Check for corrosion or loose connections.

Only do what you are comfortable around live electrical circuits.

papadog · Friday at 5:09 PM

We bought this house during the winter and had the same folks open it as the previous owners. It’s a salt water fiberglass in pool, approximately 20X40. Wet have had nothing but trouble. Using the Clorox app to treat the water, had been little help. Every fall we close the pool with the kits, every spring the pool is loaded with mud. I end up draining and refilling after spending $$$ on pool stuff. So I’ve drained it and pressure washed it. So what do I need to do this year to make this thing work right.

HermanTX · Friday at 5:08 PM

tobitoy said:
Big thanks. Will try this approach.

It’s hard for me to get replacement gaskets for this perticular skimmer in Sweden. Any idea how to solve that?

Some auto shops have a kit where you can make a gasket to fit any shape.

Syrr · Friday at 5:08 PM

What about a split nut 3" id union repair collar?

NaCLTPool · Friday at 5:07 PM

PoolStored said:
As you are tightening the band clamp, go around the filter, and with a rubber mallet hit the ring mulitple places on the band toward the filter. Tighten some more, go around again. Do this a couple times until the band is properly tightened.

I will give this a try if it is leaking. Going to check after everything should be dry. I did take it apart once after I noticed what could be a leak and made sure the ring was seated correctly

JoyfulNoise · Friday at 5:07 PM

Beth0277 said:
What should I do?

Fire the pool tech, you don't need the service. Honestly, you have an SWG, you have your own test kit, you can easily buy acid and any other chemical you need locally ... so what exactly is this tech doing??

Losing 3ppm overnight is a sure sign of algae. There is plenty of information, advice, and people willing to help on this forum. If you're paying for a pool service, you're wasting your money.

Also, algaecide is completely unnecessary in most pools ... so your tech is adding stuff to your pool that you don't need and charging you an arm & leg to ... skim leaves? Vacuum?

Newdude · Friday at 5:07 PM

Beth0277 said:
What should I do?

You should pick one method and stick with it. Mixing and matching makes even good things go south.

Either trust your pool guy (and/or the next bunch of pool guys who all follow the same method), or take over the chemistry yourself and just have them vacuum or whatever else you need.

Rob Plummer · Friday at 5:06 PM

Mdragger88 said:
One other reminder to yank those steps out and give them a thorough cleaning inside and out. If water can go there algae can grow there. Yes- inside.

Also think about how you weigh them down if they require weights. We recommend using separate sealed containers for weights and not pouring sand directly into the steps. Something like sand or concrete filled bleach jugs or the like with tape before capping (because bleach caps are vented) is common and cheap.

I weigh the steps down with sealed PVC pipes full of sand. I have 2 strapped to the underside of the steps.

ajw22 · Friday at 5:06 PM

High alkalinity only matters if it is causing problems. Yours is not. You are fine.

Manage your pH, keep it in the 7's, and let your TA fall where it may

TA - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

miller.jonj · Friday at 5:05 PM

Hi All,

My easy touch system started acting weird in the last week. Specifically, it had a blank screen, IC40, heater, valves, and screenlogic did not work. I flipped the breaker for ~30 seconds and it started working again. Fast forward to today, it happened again and this time it wouldn’t turn back on after flipping it a few times. I called Pentair support and started opening the box to see if I could see any corrosion or burn marks…..by the time I got ahold of someone, it miraculously turned on again and everything worked like normal. Any thoughts on why this is occurring now and how to prevent from happening again? I’m going on a trip soon and don’t want to come back to a swamp….

Thanks help would be greatly appreciated!

beaverplt · Friday at 5:04 PM

The TA in my pool has always been around 150 and thought that was normal. Recently, while poring through TFP and playing with the pool calculator, I read it should be closer to 60 to 80. To the best of my knowledge, I've never had an issue with my equipment or pool liner that could be alkalinity related. Perhaps I'm in error, but I'd rather be sure.

ajw22 · Friday at 5:04 PM

Get another pool tech or do it yourself.

We have seen that you cannot move pool people out of their set ways and misunderstandings.

Beth0277 · Friday at 5:01 PM

I did an overnight chlorine test a few days ago based on advice here which showed I dropped from 8.4 to 5.x overnight, confirming suspicions of algae. I told my pool tech (who tests it once a week while we are getting used to things) and he disagrees. He used algaecide and said that all we are seeing is dead algae so the chlorine is doing its job and “give it time”.

I feel that he thinks I don’t trust him and he’s very knowledgeable but it varies from what I read here. What should I do?

All other levels are fine but chlorine has dropped consistently.

ajw22 · Friday at 5:01 PM

Hayward calculates the salt reading. No way to change it.

Your cell is wearing out and needs replacement.

You can change your cell type from T-15 to T-9 and it will calculate based on a T-9 cell and work for a while longber.

HermanTX · Friday at 4:57 PM

Bryanth76 said:
liquid and powders plus tablets. I put 2 lbs of shock weekly and 1 gallon of liquid just to add some chlorine my pool store can’t figure it out

So based on the consensus the primary reason your FC is zero at the end of every week is that your daily loss due to UV and any bather load and other organics is HIGHER then your starting FC level.

A pool is like a pet dog, you need to feed each day. It needs chlorine daily to offset the daily loss.

SJPoe said:
1) Order yourself a good test kit - some examples are listed Test Kits Compared
2) Add a gallon of 12.5% Liquid Chlorine every day until the test kit arrives
3) Once the kit arrives, perform a full set of tests, and an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
4) Post all the results here and the brain trust will give you more specific direction
5) Review Pool Care Basics

6) Don't trust the pool store again.

@SJPoe action plan is spot on.

PoorPoolOwner · Friday at 4:50 PM

whatdidigetmyselfinto said:
is the "app" useful?
It is a 15% premium on the base model 604.
what kind of functionality does it allow?

Edit : Just found the manual... let's you start/stop, which doesn't seem very useful, unless you tend to leave it in the pool all the time which I don't do. And the other is the manual drive where you can send it anywhere you want using directional controls. Could be useful i guess but does not seem like something one would use often...

It’s useful for me, I have our 614iq set to start cleaning at 8am 7 days a week. I don’t touch it until I pull it out to clean filter, then put it back in.

81david · Friday at 4:49 PM

Ok checked each one per your diagram getting 3.8, 3.9, 3.8, and 4.0. Hoping to get transformer installed tomorrow.

cthenrys · Friday at 4:48 PM

So the salt cell is installed and operational. How do I connect my Power Center to my Easytouch ? I don't have the SWG board (hence the power center) but if I make the 485 connection can I control the Salt Cell from the Easy Touch panel / remote ?

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Super Confused About Valves - Returns, Skimmers, and Main Drain

cartridge filter nozzle leaking

IMG_0287.jpeg

Pool tech doesn’t agree with SLAM

CYA Chlorine Relationship - Further Reading

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

New pool finished, but having issues with spa spillover.

Attachments

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Pool tech doesn’t agree with SLAM

Constant spillway automation needed

Pool tech doesn’t agree with SLAM

Pentair EasyTouch 8 520657

Pool owner 4 years, still can’t get it right.

New pool owner, first leak!

Broken union nut Pentair VS pump. How to find correct union replacement?

Filter cleaning

Pool tech doesn’t agree with SLAM

Pool tech doesn’t agree with SLAM

Free Chlorine issue

Alkalinity Question

TA - Further Reading

Pentair EasyTouch 8 520657

Alkalinity Question

Pool tech doesn’t agree with SLAM

Pool tech doesn’t agree with SLAM

Improper salt level reading hayward pro logic

No Chlorine

New EVO 614i Robot Pool Cleaner Review

Help Please - Aux Relays Not Working

Looks like I need a new SWG

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