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Betta SE Plus skimmer robot and Ladders?

mickey4paws
Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
If the bot senses no movement as it would when it hits a solid object, it will back up, turn, and continue on.

According to the FAQ, if it gets stuck, it will, "stop and turn itself into ERROR mode when running into obstacles it can’t free itself from or getting stuck. LED lights at the top backside of the robot will show the error modes and the robot will restart by itself in 20 minutes."

My Betta SE Plus occasionally gets stuck in the skimmer, but that's because the it can't overcome the suction of the skimmer.
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Thanks, Mike! That sounds pretty cool. Our skimmer isn't that strong so maybe I won't have to worry about that, or put a noodle piece in there. The thought of not having to hand skim as much sounds wonderful!
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dereksanders
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Trying to find a solution for a bomgie pool pump plumbing from intex sand filter to pump

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta
Welcome to TFP!

I can't say I'm of any help, but I remember someone having similar inquiry in the past. Hopefully the thread will help you:

Intex salt water hard line plumbing

I have a pentair pump and filter and I'm having no problem getting the plumbing fittings to hook them up. My Saltwater system is a different story. It looks like the male threads on the Itex are 2" DWS, and I want to get to 1 1/2" PVC. So I need 2 fittings that go from 2" DWS to a 1 1/2"...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

This video in the thread solved the OP's problem:

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Water is still cloudy after multiple treatments

Donldson
KBreuer15 said:
I can't believe I went from 0 chlorine to 55 ppm. 4 lbs of shock and 4 gallons of liquid chlorine over the course of a week. Plus my chlorinator running normally (though 24-7). I'll get my pump back on its normal schedule.
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4 pounds of cal-hypo will add 15-20 ppm FC, depending on strength.

4 gallons of 10% will add 22 ppm FC.

Not sure which T-cell you have, but even the T-cell 3 can produce 9 ppm FC per day in an 18,000 gallon pool.

So 55 ppm is well within the realm of possibility.
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Water is still cloudy after multiple treatments

S
Don't trust me, but here's a thread about using either Sodium Thiosulfate or Peroxide to lower the CL level pretty quickly. Lower chlorine level with Sodium Sulfite

In my bad tablet days, when I was way over dosed on CL, I used Sodium T. a few times. It always was far more effective than the bottle said, and brought my CL crashing to 0. So then I had to bring it back up....

Do some more searching for threads about both, and form you own conclusion about whether to try one, the other, or just wait it out....

This week in Minn., the weather for degrading CL has been great. Not so much by the weekend when the cold front moves in.
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Pump Won't Start

R
ajw22 said:
I think your timer is wired incorrectly.

Show wider pictures.

I need to see the CB powering the timer and pump and where the wires go to the timer.

Which wires are to the pump?

What do you believe is connected to Circuit1, Circuit2, and Circuit3 of the timer?
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The timer has worked fine for over ten years in the same configuration. The problem just started a week ago.
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delayed opening

V
PoolStored said:
Pool buffering systems are really quite fast. With the sump pump running, pushing water straight up (no attached pvc), you will be mixing water fast. If you pour slowly in a pencil thin stream right into the roiling water, it will disperse quickly, just like pouring in front of a return.
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Good point. Thank you for all your helpful suggestions!
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My Water Softener Adventure

D
Well, I'm wrapping up this phase of the experiment. I did a full water test (except I forgot CCs... but that's ok for now). I'll test CYA when the water sample warms up (and the sun comes out again).

FC: 5.0
pH: 8.0
TA: 120
CH: 200
Salt: 4000

SUCCESS!
Clearly, the CH has gone down and the Salt has gone up. Salt is a little high, but I found last year that my SWG reports a slightly lower salt level than my drop test, and it should be good up to 4500ppm.
I added plumbing to my set up that lets me connect a hose through a y-adapter so that I can select the pump (and pool water) or my spigot as input to the softener (and output to the pool).
So, for anyone else considering this.... it worked... for me. I'm not sure what the ROI is exactly. I had to buy the softener, plus a pump. I had to buy casters and build a platform for the set up. I had to buy several bags of salt. And I don't know the longevity of the resin, and I'm not exactly sure what I am going to do come winter time, but that's a future me problem. But, it really did work, and hopefully I can keep using it for top offs.

I'm hoping to reassemble the pool equipment and open the pool next weekend.
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delayed opening

PoolStored
VAwaterboy said:
How would I add chlorine? If I pour concentrated liquid chlorine in one spot where the pump is sitting, doesn't that risk damaging the plaster?
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Pool buffering systems are really quite fast. With the sump pump running, pushing water straight up (no attached pvc), you will be mixing water fast. If you pour slowly in a pencil thin stream right into the roiling water, it will disperse quickly, just like pouring in front of a return.
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can someone help me figure out how to get my cleaner to access the whole pool without getting stuck?

C
Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
I came across this diverter valve that uses unions as opposed to slip connections.

View attachment 645700


Union connections would allow you to cut and plumb the valve without tearing apart the rest of your plumbing. Measure to ensure you have enough room for the valve. Check this out...you would need the 2-Way version of the CMP valve:

How To Replace a Diverter Valve With One With Unions - INYOPools.com

This guide shows you how to replace a standard 3-way pool direrter valve with one with unions.
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com
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interesting. i had seen something similar but with the same kind of ball valve that's there now when i was browsing at lowes last night...was tempted to just try something like that (even though it's just the same ball valve rather than one of the diverters that can be rebuilt), if i were to do it with unions it'd lead to an easier swap later if (or when) the new one fails.
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Draining Fiberglass Pool to Fix Main Drain Leak

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MAPR-Austin said:
so you will need to not only drain the pool but excavate under the deck and down to where the main drain meets the wall.
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I was resigned to this already. The pavers had started to sink so was going to redo them. The leak detector said the pool had to have been leaking a really long time for that to happen given the leak is on the bottom of the pool. Possibly since the install.

MAPR-Austin said:
You might be able to just tighten the compression fitting that is there
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This was my first thought though am fearful that once I dig down the pool will just empty out from the hole where the main drain is and then I dont have the pool braced. I'm half expecting that the installer forgot to cement the pipe going into the compression fitting.

MAPR-Austin said:
see if you have a dewatering line
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I dont have a dewatering line but know the water table is 6 inches below the bottom of my pool after heavy rain and more than two feet below after extended dry weather. There is a drainage area on the other side of my fence about 20 feet away from my pool where I dug to find the water table.
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Water is still cloudy after multiple treatments

KBreuer15
Newdude said:
Its going to take a week or more to come down. Maybe 3 in Minnesota because its still early in the season for you. Save your reagents and test every couple of days.
Click to expand...
I can't believe I went from 0 chlorine to 55 ppm. 4 lbs of shock and 4 gallons of liquid chlorine over the course of a week. Plus my chlorinator running normally (though 24-7). I'll get my pump back on its normal schedule.
Click to expand...
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