ajw22 said:

How was the IntelliConnect bypassed?

Do you have a water temperature sensor installed?
If the IntelliConnect will control a gas heater or heat pump, a water temperature sensor, which is sold separately, must be installed between the filter pump and filter.

Also, your pump needs to be under control of the IntelliConnect and the Pentair POOL App.

Will this turn on the heater? This tests if the heater is installed properly and bypasses the app - While IntelliConnect is in SERVICE Mode, simultaneously pressing and holding the RELAY1 and RELAY2 buttons for 3 seconds will activate the heater. The Demand Response LED will illuminate amber.

Pentair Automation Systems - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Click to expand...

All of them are installed. Could be a faulty intelliconnect.

I had my plaster replaced. They chipped out the old plaster with jackhammers. This is what it looked like right before the new plaster went in. I'd say you're OK!

B,

I have a bench/swim-out in my pool, and in the past 11 years, we have never used it.. A lot depends on how you will be using the pool.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Option said:

So I was able to get a new board from Oasis (part# 775-0020 for anyone in the same situation who might be reading this later) and my controller is working again.

One thing I did notice when wiring it back up is that the installer ran a wire from one of the pool pump relay inputs to power the circuit board but the installation instructions show a dedicated line running from the circuit breaker to the board. Does anyone know if that is something that could be problematic for the circuit board? If that is something that could have caused the board to malfunction prematurely, I'd obviously like to know so I can get that rectified.

(in case it helps, I included the diagram from the install manual with the correct power line highlighted in yellow and the installer's wire added in blue)

Click to expand...

The transformer should have its own 120V supply breaker and the other wire going to the neutral. You should not "piggyback" off one side of the pump breaker or relay. If you had a GFCI breaker, as should be installed, it would continue to trip with an un-balanced load.

uscshawn said:

No. Not through the app. Pool guy was able o turn it on bypassing the intelliconnect.

Click to expand...

How was the IntelliConnect bypassed?

Do you have a water temperature sensor installed?
If the IntelliConnect will control a gas heater or heat pump, a water temperature sensor, which is sold separately, must be installed between the filter pump and filter.

Also, your pump needs to be under control of the IntelliConnect and the Pentair POOL App.

Will this turn on the heater? This tests if the heater is installed properly and bypasses the app - While IntelliConnect is in SERVICE Mode, simultaneously pressing and holding the RELAY1 and RELAY2 buttons for 3 seconds will activate the heater. The Demand Response LED will illuminate amber.

Jerry,

To turn on pump #2 you will need to turn on the "jets" circuit. You really should not be doing this while the spa is heating.. I would use the jets after the spa gets up to the initial temp you want. You can adjust the speed of pump #2 to match how you want the jets to work.

Just to be sure.. When you turn on pump #1, pump #2 should NOT come on.. Just want to make sure the two pumps have two different RS-485 addresses..

Thanks,

Jim R.

dleonard1122 said:

I trust your experience with it then. I'm probably just in a "grass is always greener on the other side" situation where I only have experience with non-foamed walls.

Click to expand...

I had a pool with no foam. I changed my liner out myself and put in wall foam myself. I was hoping that it would extend my swim season by insulating the pool.

Now I am pretty handy if I do say so. Built a number of sheds, jacked up and underpinned the foundation of an other, gutted and rebuilt 2 kitchens and 5 or 6 bathrooms over the years, Changed out all of the windows in my house, not with replacements but full new construction swap outs, etc.

The wall foam was a royal pain in the rear to install. I fought with it for like an hour. It does not like to lay smooth. Anyway, I got it it, with a few minor imperfections. The walls looked good and felt nice a cushiony when the liner was on and the pool was empty. Once I filled it, you could tell there was foam if you pushed on the wall, but that was about it. It also did nothing to extend my swim season.

When I replaced my pool, I contracted somebody to do it. I mentioned I had foam cove and he said "oh, if you have wall foam that is $75 extra to install. That stuff takes forever to put in." When I said it was just foam cove, he said "oh cove, that stuff is great, there is no charge for that"

I at least felt vindicated that the guy who installs ABGs for a living thought the wall foam was a pain as well.

Welcome to TFP.

Will you have a Pool Cover Card in the IntelliCenter with a sensor at the cover?

You can try setting up a Feature Circuit for the spa SPILLWAY mode with an egg timer set for the minutes to run. You can set the pump speed for that circuit in the pump settings.

Once you get the pool and IntelliCenter running we can discuss the details more.

Update the firmware on the IntelliCenter once it is powered up before you do any programming.

ajw22 said:

Your heater working now?

Click to expand...

No. Not through the app. Pool guy was able o turn it on bypassing the intelliconnect.

Your heater working now?

I was wondering if there was a process before they plaster where they can clean up a little. And we decided to do just a small bench in the deep end that you can’t see in this picture, but it was surprisingly not required to have it, or a swim out.

JoyfulNoise said:

Well … you didn’t get their varsity team doing the shoot, that’s for sure. But otherwise, looks aren’t important for gunite. What’s important is that the rebar and plumbing was properly done and that the cement mix used was correctly spec’d and delivered on time. The plaster crew is going to be the ones that do all the final detail work and the plaster is thick enough to smooth out all that roughness. But, in reality, the rougher surface is actually better for plaster adhesion than a smooth surface. So as long as the plaster crew is competent, your pool should look great when it’s done.

Click to expand...

I didn’t know the rougher surface is better for the plaster to adhere, that’s good to know and makes me feel better. Thank you so much for your input, it’s just too easy to freak out during this process.

Timmy J said:

We will more than likely be switching over to salt water next year

Click to expand...

It will make having a pool soooo much better and easier!!! Good luck with your new pool and enjoy!!

I'm sure before plaster they will remove any loose gunite.

Looking at your picture, I don't see any deep end swim out exit. Is there one hidden to the left? Not sure if it's required(I think it is, though), but I love having one in our deep end.

Well … you didn’t get their varsity team doing the shoot, that’s for sure. But otherwise, looks aren’t important for gunite. What’s important is that the rebar and plumbing was properly done and that the cement mix used was correctly spec’d and delivered on time. The plaster crew is going to be the ones that do all the final detail work and the plaster is thick enough to smooth out all that roughness. But, in reality, the rougher surface is actually better for plaster adhesion than a smooth surface. So as long as the plaster crew is competent, your pool should look great when it’s done.

suzook said:

@Tranma any update on the wifi? I will be purchasing a gulfstream HP soon, wondering if I should pass on the wifi controller, if its not working.

Click to expand...

Skip it, it never works. I would even consider other options.

For reference, my IntelliConnect has the PNRA board with controller software 1.6.2.5 and IoT 5.72.

Things that make contact with the Cathode (Light) can be reduced (Gain Electrons).

Any anode metal (Zinc, magnesium etc.) will corrode.

If the voltage is due to a DC power source, then that provides the impressed current.

Reduction can be chlorine to chloride, oxygen to oxide, Copper ions to copper metal, hydrogen to hydrogen gas etc.

ajw22,

Thank you for the advice. I'll call and report back once I get some information.

Once the copper has been electroplated onto the stainless steel, it can probably be oxidized by chlorine or oxygen into CuO copper(II) oxide) and Cu₂O (copper(I) oxide).

The light is acting like it has either an anode attached or some sort of Impressed Current Cathodic Protection.

This will reduce the oxidation of copper, but it probably won't stop all copper oxidation.

The voltage being impressed onto the light might not be consistent.

The source of voltage might be an anode metal like aluminum, zinc or magnesium or it might be a DC power source.





Login to view embedded media

JamesW said:

It looks mostly ok.

Plaster will probably make it look good.

Click to expand...

Thank you for your feedback! I really appreciate it.

It looks like it might have fibers in the plastic.

Let us know what the manufacturer says.

Thanks for the info, didn't realize manufacturers published material information! Will have to give them a call to ask when I get the chance.

Here's a video of the fiberglass: Login to view embedded media
It definitely looks embedded in the plastic. It's exposed everywhere the sun has weathered away. Did not find fiberglass anywhere else nearby like the power cord, hose and warning stickers. I'm puzzled.

It looks mostly ok.

Plaster will probably make it look good.

In my opinion, it is ridiculous that heaters do not come with a real flow switch.