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I wonder what this stuff is?

Katodude
I wonder if this is some sort of ash? I seem to get it a few times a year. I dont really keep track of when. I seem to recall a burning smell in the last few days no idea if it is related.

It looks white while floating on the pool. Hard to take a picture of it in the water.

Anyway the Betta’s do a pretty good job of picking it up. The Aiper I think got the rest. Probably going to rinse out my filter today too.
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How to lower Total Alkalinity when...

JoyfulNoise
Location is key. The OP lives in Tubac (not too far from me in Tucson). Water evaporation (around 100” per year) will make keeping the alkalinity low difficult at best. The makeup water is very hard in both temporary and permanent hardness.

I suggest you focus on pH and CH control and ignore the TA mostly. You need to keep your CSI on the slight negative side (0 to -0.1). This means adjusting pH and keeping the calcium hardness in check. Let the TA fall to wherever it may.

I suggest you look into water softening to control calcium. If you can top off with calcium free water then managing the CSI will be a lot easier.
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18 x 33 x 56" Semi-In Ground NJ

S
I may not have followed it all, but if a sand filter, there will be a waste outlet for backwashing or pumping water out of the pool. You may want to plan where that water will end up (I have an area in my yard I can safely flood, with a small sump pit the discharge pipe goes to). If going with a cartridge filter, you will want to plumb in a similar discharge line between the pump and the filter.
Note that the amount of water pumped out when lowering levels in the fall may be a significant amount more than normal, so you may want to anticipate where else you will need to direct using a temporary discharge hose, if your main area can't handle the much greater volume.
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Draining Above Ground Pool - Questions

Newdude
Bperry said:
a shopvac will take water along with the leaves.
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While that's actually a good thing while draining, it's a PITA to dump the shop vac every 2 mins. :ROFLMAO:

So +1 with the net for the big stuff. Once you can see the bottom a little better, you can gently brush the sludge to a particular area then give it a little while to settle. A few attempts at it will leave you with a much smaller area to vac out.
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Draining Above Ground Pool - Questions

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hvstle said:
Thanks, Newdude!

So assuming I drain it out to about 18inches, and then shop vac all of the leaves and gunk out of the bottom, I should be good? When I start filling the water back up, do you suggest I start slamming, or wait for the pool to be full again and the filter running?


My pool has a TON of debris sitting on the floor. I have two neighbors around me with big trees, and all of their leaves seem to end up in my pool. LOL. It's like a magnet for their trees, and the wind tunnel seems to guide them into my pool like a dang bullseye. (I might be dramatic :) )

Last year when we left it and tried to slam we spent so much money on shock and other chemicals that I just can't do that again. It was such a pita. I had to bring almost two car loads like this to the dump last year lol...
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Try scooping out the leaves with a net. a shopvac will take water along with the leaves.
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Floor Drain-Necessary?

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Marco Josip said:
The top plug screw in for the hydrostatic pressure relief valve.

Would you guys recommend gluing that in OR just using teflon tape on the threads when screwing in.

Shotcrete guy saying NO glue and just use Teflon tape. Saying that if you ever need to or decide to just cap those hydrostatic relief valves down the road once you’ve glued them your SOL.

Any risk of them leaking with just screwing in with teflon tape?

Thanks for any feedback

Also….inspections passed yesterday, shotcrete going in today. Very excited to see progression
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They need to be removable if you ever drain your pool for repairs.
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Draining Above Ground Pool - Questions

Newdude
hvstle said:
So assuming I drain it out to about 18inches, and then shop vac all of the leaves and gunk out of the bottom, I should be good?
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Yup. Your choice if you dump most of it for less battle or just fight the water you have with lots of bleach. With cheap water and a good path to drain it, I always side with dumping/exchanging to lessen the battle. But nobody is wrong and expensive water or poor draining options would certainly change my perspective.

The floor gunk needs to be vac'd out either way. It'll be easier to see once the water is low and needs to go ASAP. It'll chew through gobs of chlorine as long as it's in there.
hvstle said:
When I start filling the water back up, do you suggest I start slamming, or wait for the pool to be full again and the filter running?
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I'd slam while filling to get a jump start on what's left. Slam according to the lower gallons at the time so you don't spike the FC 3X more than you should. It seems so common sense-y. But. :ROFLMAO:

Adjust your doses for the increasing gallons as you go.
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Draining Above Ground Pool - Questions

hvstle
Newdude said:
Welcome back hvstle. :wave:

(And i moved you to above ground pools)

Liners need 12 to 18 inches of water to hold them in place. Some have successfully got theirs to lay back nice and tight, but most fail and need a new liner.

You can drain down to 18 inches, or a little further if you watch the liner for any signs of pulling away. Then add a foot, drain it back out (perhaps even at the same time) and when you refill, you'll only have a little battle left.

With only a little original water left, and cool weather, it'll be a easier SLAM Process
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Thanks, Newdude!

So assuming I drain it out to about 18inches, and then shop vac all of the leaves and gunk out of the bottom, I should be good? When I start filling the water back up, do you suggest I start slamming, or wait for the pool to be full again and the filter running?

VinnyinNJ said:
As a AG pool owner who had a winter cover split during the winter many years ago I want you to think about not doing this if your pool doesn't have a bunch of debris sitting on the floor.

If it's just green and yucky,, chlorine will clear it up. Yes you need a lot but it will go from dark green to light green quickly. I don't know what kind of filter you have but if it's a sand filter get some diatomaceous earth (DE) to get it to filter finer. I had a DE filter then and it cleared the water up fast. It will need to be backwashed often though because of the fine filtering. You could start it on recirculate to get the chlorine moving. Once the water is clearer and you can see what you're up against you can start brushing the sides and floor of the pool. I can't say what to do if you have a cartridge filter, your way may be better.

It won't be a 1 day job but you'll be keeping the water in the pool so no issues with the liner. I will say that I have not had to use DE in my sand filter yet so I can't say it will need backwashing in a minute, an hour or how long but you'll need to monitor it.

Back then I used bleach not liquid chlorine and I did go through a lot of 1 gallon jugs (10 - 15) and I think it took a week to get the water clear being filtered with the DE filter. It's early in the year and not close to opening, at least in NJ, so plenty of time to get it ready for the new season.
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My pool has a TON of debris sitting on the floor. I have two neighbors around me with big trees, and all of their leaves seem to end up in my pool. LOL. It's like a magnet for their trees, and the wind tunnel seems to guide them into my pool like a dang bullseye. (I might be dramatic :) )

Last year when we left it and tried to slam we spent so much money on shock and other chemicals that I just can't do that again. It was such a pita. I had to bring almost two car loads like this to the dump last year lol...
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hvstle
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Floor Drain-Necessary?

M
The top plug screw in for the hydrostatic pressure relief valve.

Would you guys recommend gluing that in OR just using teflon tape on the threads when screwing in.

Shotcrete guy saying NO glue and just use Teflon tape. Saying that if you ever need to or decide to just cap those hydrostatic relief valves down the road once you’ve glued them your SOL.

Any risk of them leaking with just screwing in with teflon tape?

Thanks for any feedback

Also….inspections passed yesterday, shotcrete going in today. Very excited to see progression
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