Rain and snow won't change the chemistry much and is the best water to add but if you have the time go for it.

Capnswab said:

I saw that Circupool was coming out with this model allowing WiFi control and it checked a lot of boxes for me.

Click to expand...

I'm not sure why anyone needs wifi connectivity for the cell. I mean you need to check the FC and need to do that at the pool so that's when you'd make the adjustment to the cell. There are times when the sun angle is stronger and the setting needs intervention and the reverse is the same but that's probably 4 times a season so again not sure what the gain is here.

wireform said:

Why the solid cover over the mesh. With the mesh you don't have to worry when it rains and snows and won't be problematic unless it's a blizzard and then I'm not sure many people do anything then. You would need to monitor the water in the pool once in awhile but other then that it is set and forget. With the solid cover nothing goes through but it becomes a full time occupation dealing with it all off season.

Click to expand...

With a solid cover my water is crystal clear in the spring. All I have to do is vaccum out the worms . Plus I like not having to drain it over the winter etc. We get snow but rarely anything too crazy in Philly. Also the chemistry stays pretty much the same

Well, I have gotten my plumbing mapped out and a pretty accurate supply list, below is "as-is" in my drawings, I may wait to install the heater bypass when we actually get the heater hence the unions, solar or wood boiler, idc what y'all say on that! . Looking at it again I will probably add (2) 2-way valves before the Tees' that branch off from the pump intake/filter discharge lines, and I may add another 2-way at the return on the left to restrict that if I need to. The SWG will be after the filter and before the valve as well just realized I didn't add that Let me know y'alls thoughts as usual!
OH, and my "water feature" is probably just gonna be a homemade jawn for this year to help with cooling a bit, I'll get fancy with that at a later date lol.

Pump, Filter, and Pre-filter all have unions built into them, still unsure about the pre-filter as I said prior just something I may add due to keeping most of the trees. I know leaves won't get that far into the system but I'm sure some other will due to them still being there.

Plumbing – ALL 2”

• (3) – 3-Way Valves
• (2)* – 2-Way Valves
  • (5)* If adding the 2 before the tees' and 1 at the left return
• (1) – Check Valve
• (4) – Tee’s
• (21) - 90⁰ elbow
• (9) – Couplers
• (20) – 10’ sch40 pvc pipe
  • Linear feet is estimated at 180' so 200' for extra

Aside from the valves, everything is available in sch40 pvc at depot so running to get more isn't a huge deal. Before anyone asks about the software it's chief architect home designer suite. I originally got it years ago to plan the addition on our house but like I said before that is on the backburner right now due to rates and some other variables, we'd rather enjoy our backyard more at the moment while our growing family is still young!

Poolnerdgrandma said:

High temps in the 70s for the foreseeable future! Just turned on the heater. As the pool warms up I'll do a full set of tests and get it ready for the season.

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What was your pool water temp just before you turned on the heater?

If the heater shuts off due to an error, you should get an error code.

Is the water temperature displayed going up when the heater starts?

Can you show pictures of the System?

On the running of the SWCG one switch powers both units. Unfortunately I don’t know what else to add that might be helpful.

On the VS motor, I’ve been wanting to do that but thought I might do the SWCG this summer and motor next summer.

IGNITOR & FLAME SENSOR HDXFIGFS001. HDXFIGFS002





Hayward Ignition Kit & Flame Sensor For HDF400 Heaters | HDXFIGFS001 | HDXFIGFS002.


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nemeth8 said:

I bought it online from the main store in Colorado everyone recommends but I cant remember the store.
,

Click to expand...

Leave the pool running while waiting for the tile repair.

Repairing that tile with thinset and grout is not very difficult.

UHS Sequence of Operation: Normal
The control continually compares the set temp to the actual water temp.

When the water temp is 1º below the set point the following sequence starts:


1. The control checks for open blower vacuum switch.

2. Blower starts pre-purge cycle as the ignitor heats up (20 Sec).

3. The control checks for a closed blower vacuum switch.

4. At proper ignitor temp, a 4 second trial begins. Gas valve opens and monitors flame sense.

The blower will turn off for one second.

The ignitor is de-energized at flame sense or at completion of 4 sec trial.

If the flame is sensed, The blower vacuum switch, control loop, temp sensor & flame sensor are constantly monitored during call for heat.

5. When set temp is reached, the control ends the call for heat, the gas valve is de-energized, and the flame is extinguished.

6. The blower will operate for a 30 second post purge.
________________________________________________________________________
If trial fails:

1. Gas valve de-energizes (for 30 second, blower post purge).

2. Starts over at #2 of heating mode sequence.

3. Retries 3 times until lockout (IF code).

4. Waits 60 minutes then retries 3 more times.

5. Will continue to retry every 60 minutes, until demand for heat is stopped.

All the IntelliBrite controller does is pulse the power to the light on and off.

Connect a voltmeter to the output and see if the voltage is turning on and off as different light colors are selected. If not, then the controller needs to be replaced.

Measure voltage across gas valve during trial for ignition.

You should get 24 VAC.

Hayward IDXLFLS1930 FD Series Flame Sensor Kit.

The kit includes 2 flame sensors.
The FD sensor is longer and bent in the middle.
The IDL sensor is shorter.

MikeG1514 said:

Would a faulty flame sensor allow the heater to run for 10 minutes (in my case) or any length of time before shutting the heater down?

Click to expand...

It can if the Flame Current is weak and close to the shutoff level.

MikeG1514 said:

My understanding is the sensor reacts fairly quickly.

Click to expand...

Loss of Flame Rectification usually responds in about 0.8 seconds by closing the gas valve.

Typically, the Trial For Ignition is about 4 to 7 seconds.

Trial for Ignition is when the gas valve is opened and the board is looking for good flame rectification of at least 0.7 microamp DC of flame current.

If the flame current is not at least 0.7 microamp within 7 seconds, the board closes the gas valve.

You might get 0.8 microamp DC and then it falls below 0.8 microamp and the board shuts the gas valve.

Flame Sensitivity 0.7 µA minimum.

Note that different control boards use different flame current minimums and different trial for ignition periods.

Numbers used are from Fenwal SERIES 35-66 ICM (Ignition Control Module) and Hayward might use other numbers, but they will be similar.

Some ICMs have Flame current test points that you can use, especially if the ignitor is also the flame sensor (Called Local Sense).

If you have a separate flame sense rod, you test flame current by putting the meter inline and measuring DC microamps.

Note: The HDF400 GAS HEATER uses a 4 second trial for ignition.




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