Go kit 3. I'm recommending the salt version because the shaft seal is better and worth it in my opinion.

The electrician came today, I watched him remove and install the motor
he started it up and left
it sounds and pumps just like the original
a very very slight leak has developed from the bottom, he did not replace any seals, gaskets, or o-rings
I called him and his reply was "you paid me to supply and replace the pump" he wants $90 an hour + parts to fix the leak
I will not be using him
looking at the schematic for the Super Pump, housing gasket, diffuser gasket, and shaft seal should have been replaced

You can also use the WIKI...both have most current information...

Left is MPS. Right is Dichlor.

You don't need MPS and I wouldn't use it.

MPS is an oxidizer and not a sanitizer.
Chlorine is both an oxidizer AND a sanitizer.
MPS breaksdown and adds sulfates to the water
Chlorine breaks down and adds chloride to the water
Sulfates, at high enough levels, cause crevice corrosion
Chloride, at SUPER HIGH levels, increases pitting corrosion
Most tub heaters are made of cheap steel or, if lucky, Incoloy (a high Cr/Ni content stainless steel)
Some people have skin allergies towards MPS
Almost no one has allergies to chlorine (those that think they do are often mistaken)
Chlorine creates chloramines which can be smelly and irritating
MPS typically only creates oxygen and nitrogen and it's oxides.

You absolutely must have a sanitizer in the water, that is non-negotiable. Oxidizers are important for destroying bather waste.

If chlorine does BOTH jobs, then why do you need MPS?

The sticky is a very old thread...we've updated our understanding here:

Maldravus said:

how do I get the amount of lc I need to add from the app?

Click to expand...

Login to view embedded media

Maldravus said:

No, I meant pouring it into the pool following the tfp method. Not in the chlorinator. The chlorinator DOES still have some leftover tablets in it though.

Click to expand...

It is safer just to leave it, it will add a little FC and a little CYA.

Maldravus said:

I believe my TA is 90.

Click to expand...

Keep adding drops until there is no additional color change. Did you get a SpeedStir?

Maldravus said:

Thanks for bearing with me, this is a bit overwhelming.

Click to expand...

It gets easier every time you do it. You're just starting out. You've already got a great test kit, and will soon have PoolMath as an additional tool. (Remember, PoolMath is just a calculator.)

Maldravus said:

Is there somewhere on here when I can plug my numbers in and determine how much liquid chlorine and acid I need?

Click to expand...

PoolMath. I like to use "Effects of Adding". I also like the "Old PoolMath Webpage" (link at the bottom of this page).

Welcome to the forum!
I use just one stir cross. Rinse well.
The pH rises as your fill water has a TA of 130 ppm.
Use softened water for makeup water due to evaporation. Your pool will evaporate 1.5 to 2 pool volumes per year.
I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool

Have you tested your pool fill water for TA? I doubt it will be zero.
There are no reasons, and you don't want to run your TA at zero. For any period of time. 50 is the minimum. Low pH really damages equipment.
Running your CSI on the low side (-.6) will slowly reduce any remaining.

Maldravus said:

Is there somewhere on here when I can plug my numbers in and determine how much liquid chlorine and acid I need?

Click to expand...

PoolMath. Get the subscription for $8 per year. Allow you to save all your test and chemical additions. Link-->PoolMath

Maldravus said:

Also, I still have a little bit of leftover pucks in the chlorinator. Is there an issue mixing the two?

Click to expand...

NEVER MIX ANY POOL CHEMICALS. If you mean add liquid chlorine to the chlorinator NO. NEVER MIX POOL CHEMICALS.

If you mean "is it ok to leave a bit of the pucks in the chlorinator, and add liquid TO THE POOL," yes that is fine.

dave1119 said:

should I just do the difference using dry stabilizer in a sock?

Click to expand...

Yes. Save the other bottle for spring next year. CYA tends to go to zero over winter.

For next time, and it can be scaled down to use socks or such for smaller doses.

Mstrlucky74 said:

Is there any "control" panel or similiar I can integrate into my equipment setup to have "smart" features/controls? Not sure what would be controlled, imagine just the lights. Should I do any automation?

Click to expand...

I would not get a pool without automation and web access. I love being able to control things from my phone and the piece of mind knowing the swg is running when on vacation is priceless. Most vendors have automation that works with their equipment best so if you go Hayward get their automation setup. Not needed for some but a necessity for others.

The reason is I don't want to add baking soda first as I was initially thinking I'd do. I want to see where the CH lands after filling the pool and see how smooth it actually is on the surface. I'm not talking about keeping it this way. I'm talking about the order of adjustments in the first day or two max. I'll bring it up after stabilizing CH and checking for roughness. I may want to run it low at first but not for long at all. This will give me a low CSI to start which I'll slowly bring up above -0.6 then try to keep it in the -0.6 to -0.3 range.

I want to do this in baby steps to avoid going too far one way or the other but this isn't a long term level for sure.

Deleted.

It is just a Florida thing.

For some reason, builders use tiny filters in Florida.

Maybe because many pools are screened and do not require as much filtration.

Thanks, I agree cheaper and will do that next time. I didn't know dry was better? I was wondering how much would be settled on the bottom, thanks for the heads up. So needing just shy of 2 more quarts, (using only1 gal of LS) should I just do the difference using dry stabilizer in a sock? I guess I could see how much the 1st bottle was caked on bottom. btw, I got Natural Chemistry liquid stabilizer 2 for $48.98.

Jimrahbe said:

Pro,

Tell us where you normally try to keep your FC, and what your current CYA reading is...

Thanks,

Jim R.

Click to expand...

hi Jim, I just came from Lesslie, here are my numbers. All these problems started when I constantly get law salt light warning, so I assume that there should be a leak as I added salt periodically and it didn't keep the level.