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Zodiac sticks to walls

1
glashorse said:
I have this Zodiac Baracuda for some time. It recently has literally starting vacuuming itself to the wall after working fine for years. I never received a flow meter so know nothing about using one of those. I’m ready to throw this thing out!
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Your footpad is worn out. Part W70327. This aftermarket one for about $9.00 works well:
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Acid Wash vs Jack's Magic for copper staining (suspected high CYA levels, what to look for to assess risk to plaster).

J
QPSUtah said:
The sanding would still shorten the plaster life
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Not that much.

A better choice than replaster.

If you do a Jack's #2 first, that might do most of the work and the sanding can be very light with a finer grit sandpaper.

You can also take the TA down to zero after giving the Jack's #2 time to work.

Jack's #2 and zero TA can damage metals like the light and heater.

Take the system offline to do treatment.

Note: Draining involves risk and you need to make sure that it is safe to drain.
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Acid Wash vs Jack's Magic for copper staining (suspected high CYA levels, what to look for to assess risk to plaster).

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JamesW said:
Another option is to sand with a power sander and diamond grit pads.

I would probably do a Jack’s #2 followed by a drain and sand with fine grit diamond pads.

Note that draining always involves risk and you need to be sure that the pool will not float or have any other adverse effects.
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The sanding would still shorten the plaster life, but obviously would make it smoother to walk on, so still just a temporary solution.
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Pump/Motor starting to make some noise

1
SteveK52 said:
Thank you for taking the time to respond. I have not noticed any water or oil but will take a closer look. We have had some rain this morning so when things dry out I will do a through examination.
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You will never see oil, there is none in a pool motor. Any lubrication is inside the sealed front and rear bearings and is a very small amount. Water leaking past a shaft seal can cause the lubrication of the front bearing to fail.
I have only seen one motor of the many hundreds I have replaced or had repaired with a bad rear bearing. If bearings are replaced, it is best practice to replace them both, even if the rear appears to be good.
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Is this a superflo vs or whisperflo vs drive?

1
BoneDr210 said:
Recently updated a lot of the pool equipment in my new place with your guys' help - thank you! But I kept the old Calimar 1.5 HP pump and added the automation adapter to have better control using 3 relays on the intellicenter. However, always thought it would be nice to have a pentair pump to go with the intellicenter and all the other pentair equipment that I had installed. Wanted more customization other than the 3 relays could provide using Calimar. Also I was maxing out on the pump RPMs to get a flow rate of around 50GPM to get water to the solar collectors. Thought a slightly bigger pump might be ideal.

So I've been checking facebook marketplace and offerup to see if I can score on a good deal. Saw one today - whisperflo vst for a reasonable price, only in use for a couple weeks before the seller realized it wasn't meeting his needs and he needs the intelliflo instead. I get the pump and it looks pretty new, however, when I unscrewed the control panel to make my electrical connections, I saw a NIDEC drive kit. When I googled the model number (KCCA0348-P2-G31), it shows up as a superflo drive -- click here .

Now I'm wondering if this pump has been refurbished... I checked the pictures for both whisperflo and superflo and the pump housing looks like whisperflo (pictures attached) but the only thing throwing me off is the motor/drive. The metal on the outside is a gold color (like superflo, although whisperflo is similar looking) and the nidec model number (KCCA0348-P2-G31). Of course I worry if that drive is a superflo drive than it won't produce the HPs a whisperflo is supposed to. Learned by lesson to only buy things new from a reputable dealer when it comes to expensive equipment.

I'm going to call pentair tomorrow and ask. The seller says he hasn't touched it...

Does anyone know if a whisperflo vst can have that nidec drive?

Thank you!
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Pump manufacturers don't make motors, they purchase them from contractors. Nidec is a large motor manufacturer.
Apparently Pentair had them make motors for that pump. Since there are no aftermarket variable-speed motor drives available that match that Pentair motor, it is OEM.
Waterway used to use Century V-Green motors for their VSPs, now they use Nidec Neptune.
Jandy used to, and may still, use Century variable-speed motors on their pumps.
You are going to need a special communication cable to have your Intellicenter control that VST motor and which cable will depend on the manufacture date of the motor. It is not the same cable as the one used on an Intelliflow pump.
The drive does not determine the horsepower of a VSP, it just turns it on and off and varies the speed by frequency. It is the motor it self that has a particular power output and energy demand.
What is often overlooked is that the horsepower rating on an electric motor is a measure of how much energy it will use. On a VSP that amount varies with the RPM selected. On a single-speed it is constant but the performance is completely dependent on pump design. That is why a 1hp Whisperflo (high-head pump) will out perform a 1hp SuperFlo (medium-head pump) though they will both consume the same amount of electricity.
Superflo impellers do not fit a Whisperflo, or vice/versa. That picture is a Whisperflo.
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K-2006 Taylor Test Results (50% Water Change)

M
pjt said:
How are you chlorinating? Fill out your signature when you have a minute.
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I will get all the info from my equipment once it stops raining out. In the past, I used a shock/tablet combo from Leslies. Going forward, I want to use regular old non-scented bottled bleach. Sunday, I drained more than 50%, replaced both pentair lights in the spa and the pool, and began refilling. It is almost filled as we speak.
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Pump/Motor starting to make some noise

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1poolman1 said:
From that short video, it sounds like bearings. There also appears to be some white residue and a bit of rust at the very bottom of the sealplate and clamp but it is hard to see. That would indicate a seal leak which would account for the bearing noise. Has there been any water visible below the pump? A small puddle?
You can remove the shroud at the back of the motor, turn it on, and see if the noise is still there. It is possible that something is stuck in the fan, but that noise usually goes away.
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Thank you for taking the time to respond. I have not noticed any water or oil but will take a closer look. We have had some rain this morning so when things dry out I will do a through examination.
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Acid Wash vs Jack's Magic for copper staining (suspected high CYA levels, what to look for to assess risk to plaster).

Q
1poolman1 said:
Don't acid wash that pool, the plaster will not survive. And you probably won't remove all the blue stain anyway. Its in bad shape now. If you look carefully at the stained areas you can see the aggregate that is in the plaster mix.
Most likely the re-plaster was a bond-coat then plaster job. That means that the new plaster would have been about 1/8" - 1/4" thick. Check just below the tile. Does there appear to be a slight angle to the plaster? Its less expensive that way, but 15 years is about the end of life for that job.
If you do decide to do the acid wash, be sure to get a signed waiver that explains what to expect. Most pool owners want a pool that is "new" again and that is not going to happen. I've done about 100 and you learn which to walk away from.
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Yes. And came back out today to look more closely. As expected the CYA is too high to test without dilution. One drop seems to obscure the dot.

And I did notice that the “stains” do have the smooth finish worn away. So I’ll probably recommend replastering it and definitely not an acid wash. May still try the Jack’s magic treatment. I’ll confer with my local jack’s rep here to get his suggestion.
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Aqualink OneTouch Control panel with blank screen - pool is new to me

1
AmberCrest said:
LoL... I guess our messages passed each other, just above I added more about this:

I had not looked closely at some of the yard photos taken a while back till now. Evidently, we have a Fiberstars 6004 or 6004-AS but it looks very trashed.
PXL_20241201_194936184 crop.jpg
Considering the apparent condition, I gather the better alternative will likely be to put in some Treo LEDs but the cost is disheartening... I've never liked the idea of being forced to use a specific manufacturers product because of what was previously installed but there may not be an option. That said, I have fabricated all sorts of LED fixtures - I might be tempted to rebuild those in-pool lenses to house a COB LED if I can make it fit...
Any idea how big they are inside?
And it seems odd to me that most of the power supplies I see are 12vAC rather than DC, when LEDs, without extra help, are DC devices.
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Its been at least 20 years since I worked on the lenses of a fiber-optics light, but I believe that they are threaded into fittings with a regular 1.5" pipe thread. If that is the case, any of the available niche-less lights should work if the conduit behind the lens is large enough, though the price and longevity of those lights has proved to be disappointing.
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Pump/Motor starting to make some noise

1
SteveK52 said:
I'm not sure how well the video will show this bur just noticed the pump/motor making some noise that I have not heard before. Anyway to tell which it is? Going away at the end of the week for a week and would not like to have it quit while we are gone.
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From that short video, it sounds like bearings. There also appears to be some white residue and a bit of rust at the very bottom of the sealplate and clamp but it is hard to see. That would indicate a seal leak which would account for the bearing noise. Has there been any water visible below the pump? A small puddle?
You can remove the shroud at the back of the motor, turn it on, and see if the noise is still there. It is possible that something is stuck in the fan, but that noise usually goes away.
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When Should I Add Salt

PoolStored
You fusion specified 3000-3500 I'd aim for 3300.
Wait until temps rise a bit, will help the salt dissolve.
I'd recommend Diamond Crystal Solar Salt. Has the fewest mentions of issues.
Make sure SWG is OFF. Dump it in the shallow end and brush back and forth until dissolved. I can usually do 4 bags at a time for a reasonable amount to push around.
Leave pump running for 24 hours before starting up the SWG.
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Hayward S200 replacement

1
Dogma said:
Thanks to you and @PoolStored for the reply.

I assume it would be the S244T since my current model seems to have 1 1/2 inch piping.

It's currently for sale for $599, should I just go with that or go with the 27 inch for $40 more?
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For $40 I would always go larger. Those 27" tanks are so popular in my area my suppliers can't keep them in stock.
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