Intellichlor IC 40 Flow and Cell lights are off, Salt level lights flash red and green

[twe]

My flow is good and the water is 70 degrees. When I run the diagnostic test the cell light turns green and then goes off. Any ideas?

 

[mknauss]

How old is the cell?

If the Flow light is not green, nothing will ever happen.

Pentair Intellichlor ICXX SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[twe]

it has 4,000 hours on it. It was given to me my a contractor when my ichlor 30 was leaking.

 

[mknauss]

How old is it? There should be a sticker on the bottom with manufacture date.

 

[twe]

02/12/2022 Rev 3200

 

[JamesW]

Show a video of what is happening.

 

[twe]

I had to compress to upload

 

[JamesW]

Post on youtube and link.

 

[twe]

 

[PoolStored]

A blinking red "salt level" light on your Intellichlor IC40 indicates a low salt level.

How are you testing your water?
Do you have a salt test?
What is the salt level of your water from your salt test?

 

[twe]

Salt is at 3200. Green is flashing as well.

 

[mknauss]

The FLOW light must be Green for the system to proceed past the boot up phase with is the red/green RR light sequence you are seeing.

Read the link I posted above. In the article is how to bypass the flow switch for a test.

 

[JamesW]

You don't have a good flow light, so the salt test cannot work.

Check the flow switch.

 

[PoolStored]

Salt is at 3200. Green is flashing as well.

Missed that, and Marty is right...no flow light...won't work.
Marty'd

 

[JamesW]

With No Flow the LED should be Red.

The lights look weak.

Maybe a burned out light.

Check the flow switch.

The cell electronics might be going bad.

The warranty is 2 years from date of purchase or installation.

 

[twe]

I tried the bypass - connected red and black and no change. I ran the diagnostic and now the cold water light is red.

 

[mknauss]

If the flow light does not turn green (or if the light is faulty, the system does not boot up and start generating) when you connect the black and red wires going TO the power center, then the cell is dead.

Let's be sure @JamesW and/or @Jimrahbe agree.

 

[Jimrahbe]

If the flow light does not turn green (or if the light is faulty, the system does not boot up and start generating)

twe..

Kind of depends why the light is not working...

If it is simply a bad LED, then the cell should still work, as it would 'think' the green light is on with good flow..

If the circuit that detects 'good' flow is bad, then it might not be able to turn on the red or green flow LEDs and if it can't tell the flow switch is working it will not test the salt..

All that to say.. You have a bad cell!!! It does not matter how old it is, how many hours it has on it.. If the both red and green flow lights do not work, then it has to be the cell.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[JamesW]

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[twe]

Thanks for the replies. I went out and looked at it this morning and I do not have a flow light, but I do have a green cell light that I did not have before and I have a green salt level light which I also did not have before. I had to increase the chlorine output to keep the cell light on. I still have it wired to bypass the flow switch. Could this be working?