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2 weeks of Slam Today

Newdude
Intex equipment is woefully undersized and takes a long time to clear a swamp. It is what it is when the entire pool comes in a box for less than just a traditional pool filter.

I love these pools for how many people are able to get into the game but they have their drawbacks juat like anything else.
dannybye1 said:
Heck with as much money as I've spent and water cost here in Pensacola Florida I should have drained the 15,000 gallons and cost me $45 buck to replace and start fresh
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Its your choice if you want to continue the battle or wipe the slate clean. At any point it's still only $45 to start over with the lesson learned. :)
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2 weeks of Slam Today

D
My CYA is 40. I've kept the pool at above 16 now for the duration except for day one. I've used DE four days running just not clearing up with any appreciative clarity. I've taken pics now of steps and vac on the bottom ... lol You'd think I was looking 40' down. My pool is only 4 feet deep. It's an Intex 16x32. Oh .. my total alkalinity is 100, the calcium is 110. Ph when I started was 7.3 and still is at 7.4. I've been using chlorine from the local hardware store 1000 gallon tank that supplies chlorine for beach homes and condos etc. It generally is a hot product at least 10 or 11 percent. What do I do? Heck with as much money as I've spent and water cost here in Pensacola Florida I should have drained the 15,000 gallons and cost me $45 buck to replace and start fresh. HOW DO I GET THIS POOL CLEAR? PLEASE? lol lol lol!
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Planning out SWG install - Circupool Core Control 55

O
Capnswab said:
In case anyone stumbles across this thread, the app lets you set output anywhere between 0-100. Just got it up and running today.

View attachment 631945
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How are you liking this unit? Can you do an initial review? I just ordered one today after talking to Circupool on the phone for 30 minutes. It was either an RJ-60 or a Core Control 55 for me. The RJ has a 15k hr cell vs 10k hr on the CC, but the CC has add-on module kits coming out this summer that will do ph/ORP and dose/inject acid for you. Third kit will be a relay board for full on automation control. It was kind of a no brainer for me.
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Drained Due to CH Pushing 1000ppm..

Newdude
ShallowWater said:
Why the shocked look @PoolStored ?
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Well I had one too based upon the scope of the work accomplished in a very short time. I'd be waiting for callbacks for at least another 2 weeks. *Then* I'd have to wait my turn after deciding who to use. :laughblue:

(Though you did say you had a regular guy).


Also, absolutely LOVE the supervisors doing their thing. Maybe you could get them mini clipboards.
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New install of jandy TCX won't turn on out the box

J
1742825252454.png

Part Number 162H24
Series Low Voltage PCB Mount - Low Profile - 1.1 VA to 36 VA (162-164 Series)
Short Description POWER TX 20VA 115/230
Long Description Transformer, low voltage PCB mount, low profile, 115/230V, 20VA, 24V C.T. @ .8A
Shipping Weight 0.82 lbs (0.37 kg)
UNSPSC 39121301
UPC 623980260983
REACH Compliant Yes (more info...)
RoHS Compliant Yes (more info...)
Power Rating (VA) 20
Secondary (RMS) Series 24V C.T. @ .8A
Secondary (RMS) Parallel 12V @ 1.6A

www.hammfg.com

Low Voltage PCB Mount - Low Profile - 1.1 VA to 36 VA (162-164 Series)

The 162-164 series of low voltage PCB mount power transformers from Hammond provides a range of 20 output voltages and six VA size models to choose from. Their low profile, split bobbin design includes a low primary to secondary coupling, eliminating the need for an electrostatic shield.
www.hammfg.com www.hammfg.com

www.hammfg.com

162H24

Transformer, low voltage PCB mount, low profile, 115/230V, 20VA, 24V C.T. @ .8A
www.hammfg.com www.hammfg.com





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1742825252454.png

J
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Is this a good price ..

Newdude
SunnyP2000 said:
Keep in mind that many towns on Long Island have different regulations regarding the placement of equipment to pass inspection. It’s the pool builder’s responsibility to confirm these requirements
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Great unitended point that if building a protective cover, it would be treated as any structure or shed and may have its own setback requirements on top of the equipment rules. (y)
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Low Pressure

GMTK
Noticed my waterfall from my spa in to the pool wasn't looking like it normally does. I check my filter housing and the pressure is reading about 5 psi, when 10-11 psi is normal.

Pool level is normal. Skimmer baskets are empty and I checked under them to make sure there was no debris. Cleaned all 4 filters. Emptied basket on the front of the pump. It's a two speed pump and yes it was in "high" and/or "normal" speed and not low speed.

Thoughts? I'm thinking maybe a return line to the pump is clogged, we've had a TON of wind and leaves in the pool.
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New liner, had green water

B
katie.e.mccall said:
Hi-
We are getting our vinyl liner replaced, and the water in the pool has been drained. The pool had green water prior to draining, so I am wondering how to clean/drain/what to do with the pump/piping/filter to get that gross water out. I imagine with the new liner and clean refilled water I will send a bunch of that gross water back in once the pump is back on- is there a way to avoid that by cleaning/draining it now? Or is that just a part of the process and I’ll SLAM it to fix it?

22k gal in ground vinyl liner pool
Hayward sand filter
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Could blow out the pipes from the pad with a shop-vac or small air compressor but probably not worth the trouble.
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New pool but no plaster dust??

Jimrahbe
ja,

I've had one pool built, and two replastered, and I have never had any plaster dust...

But.. In all three case the plaster crew add a gallon of something they said would reduce or prevent any plaster dust..

Unfortunately, I have now forgotten what it was called.. :(

Edit... I think it was called "Start-up Tec" or something similar..

Thanks,

Jim R.
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IMG_1713.jpeg

thefloatqueen
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thefloatqueen
IMG_1712.jpeg

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thefloatqueen
IMG_1711.jpeg

Elevated spa drains

Jimrahbe
R,

You can run the system with the make-up valve off for day or so, but NO fresh water will ever get to the spa... :(

What I would do... is leave the system in the Pool mode.. do not go into the spa mode, so the Intake actuator will never move. Do this with the make-up valve open.. It does not matter if the spa drains down a little with the pump off.

I'd replace the Intake actuator and the 'guts' to the Make-up check valve.

While waiting for parts, I'd run the system for 24 hours and see if the wet spot returns or not.

Do you have a VS pump or single speed pump? If you have a VS pump, there is almost no reason to turn it off if you are running at a low rpm..

Thanks,

Jim R.
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New house, two pumps, is there a better configuration?

Jimrahbe
FLCoach said:
You are really selling me on the VS pump. For the VS pump, most of the time at 1200rpm. Did you need to increase rpms for a flow switch say on the salt system or the heater?
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FL,

I can run at 1200 and easily close my SWCG's flow switch and skim well... But... I don't have a heater.. Heaters add a lot of resistance to water flow.. If I had a heater I'd have to run at 1500 to 1700.. Unless you have a heater by-pass valve, water always flows through the heater, whether it is on or off.

That said, the IntelliFlo pump at my house is about 12 years old and not near as energy efficient as the newer models.

This is where an automation system helps... The automation system can tell the pump what speed to run based upon what you want the pool to do at that time..

A VS pump and a SWCG kind of go hand in hand.. When you have a SWCG you have to run the pump longer to generate the chlorine that your pool needs.. This can be expensive when you have a single speed pump.. Enter VS pumps which cost next to nothing to run.

Thanks,

Jim R.
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Elevated spa drains

R
Jimrahbe said:
R,

If the spa does not drain down, with the make-up valve shut off, then most likely the check valve in the make-line is bad or dirty..

But I like your one step at a time approach..

Keep in mind you will still need to fix or replace the Intake actuator.

Thanks,

Jim R.
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Waited overnight to see if spa drains, voila water stayed at the same level since I turned off the pump, This is with make up valve set to off towards spa spill over. And the wet spot behind the spa is also dry. What should I do next? So check valve and actuator switch to be replaced right? Can I turn the pump on with makeup vale off till we get the parts replaced?
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A good aftermarket cartridge replacement?

thefloatqueen
Hello everyone! I am about to “open” officially this week and am shopping on Amazon for a new cartridge for my Hayward X-Stream 150 sq ft filter. Should I stick with the OEM Hayward brand ($101.59 before tax on Amazon) or buy one of the aftermarket brands that have excellent reviews and are way less than the OEM one? The ones I am looking at are $70 and $63 and have great reviews.

The actual “model number” or whatever it’s called of my cartridge is CC1500RE. If you’ve used an aftermarket cartridge before, is there a particular brand you recommend? There are a few options on Amazon and I don’t know where to start but I need to act quick. Thanks in advance!
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Is this a good price ..

SunnyP2000
Mstrlucky74 said:
So I think I found a good spot for my equipment pad and really the only spot. The only problem is there's some branches that come close to being over it from my neighbor's yard. I guess I could trim them but is there any reason I couldn't build or put some type of overhead shield above the equipment pad to prevent debris and other stuff from falling on it?
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Keep in mind that many towns on Long Island have different regulations regarding the placement of equipment to pass inspection. It’s the pool builder’s responsibility to confirm these requirements. The minimum distance I recall is typically 3-5 feet from the property line, but some towns, like Oyster Bay, require around 10 feet. I believe the Town of Islip has a 4-foot requirement.
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New install of jandy TCX won't turn on out the box

T
JamesW said:
Test resistance in ohms from 1 to 2 and from 3 to 4.

On the opposite side you also have 4 pins, test resistance (Ohms) from 5 to 6 and from 7 to 8.

I am pretty sure that the transformer part number is 160H24, can you confirm this?

The part number is partly shown but part is blocked by the zip tie.

View attachment 634018
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162h24 is the code
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Coping and Concrete issues

bigpoppapoolman
schmutzler03 said:
Thanks, @ajw22 . I am familiar with resurfacing, but also hesitant to bother as you implied since this other work needs to be done. Anyone recognize what was done to the corners? It's weird to me that the aluminum coping is only on the straight edges and this plastic (?) type stuff is on the corners.
I feel the price we got from the first contractor for cutting out concrete and replacing the coping/liner was kind of excessive, but I may not be thinking some part of it through. I'd expect to pay that much if it included replacing the entire deck as well.
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Freeze and thaw in East Tn will pop up the topping repair. I’d tear out the deck … pressure test all pool plumbing and leave pressure on it during all of the work.. add a gray walk in step, new liner, gray coping, new deck (very important to use a proven concrete company that has great reviews and proof of good looking work) and a new liner. It will look like a new pool. Replace the diving board stand/base with a gray fiberglass/acrylic one. You can eliminate the old light and add 3 nicheless LED lights and deck jets also. That pool with the updates would probably cost $60k if built new from scratch by a good builder. It increases the property value for most prospective future buyers and in the meantime you enjoy the use and and a great looking pool.
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