Thanks from looking because I have zero electric for anything. I guess we'll have to some pool to view for we get this motor and/or pump after work.

Crosby,
Newly plastered pools (less than 30 days) have completely different needs than when the plaster has been under water for at least one month. Keep that in mind as I offer suggestions for you to follow for the first month of your new pool.

Since your plaster is less than 30 days old, the pH will always be very difficult to keep under 8.3. That is just the way it is. Fortunately, there is one way to ease that difficulty, and that is by maintaining the CSI (or LSI) at about +0.4 to +0.5 for 20 to 30 days. To achieve that high CSI, it is best to have a high alkalinity if possible, and the pH between 7.8 and 8.3. The calcium hardness should never be adjusted upward (if needed) until the pH is under 8.0. Daily additions of small amounts of acid will probably be needed for the first two to three weeks.

The following is an explanation about the above program, and it only applies to new plaster, not a plaster pool that is beyond 30 days. If or when the pH is low and/or the alkalinity is low, and the CSI is below +0.4, some plaster material (calcium hydroxide) will dissolve into the pool water and immediately cause the pH to rise dramatically. That is exactly why the pH in your pool water was tested at 8.7 (if I read that above correctly). Only by maintaining the CSI at a high level will prevent the dissolution of calcium hydroxide from the plaster surface. Once 30 days have past, there is no longer any calcium hydroxide on the plaster surface because it has been carbonated. It is no longer a problem to deal with. I have proven the above information through many experiments.

One other point, do not use liquid chlorine for the first month unless you add acid at the same time. Liquid chlorine has a very high pH and could cause scaling when added if not neutralized by adding acid at the same time and brushing afterwards to remove scale (if present) and to circulate the water.

My suggestion to you right now is to add acid and bicarb at the same time to lower the pH. If you add 7 lbs. of bicarb for every gallon of 31.45% acid, that will negate any change to the TA. But it will lower the pH. I would proceed to get the CSI to a higher level mentioned above. Brushing is always necessary and vital for new plaster pools. Thousands of pools are successfully using the Bicarb Startup program or the Orenda's Positive LSI Calcium startup program.

Once your pool is beyond 30 days, maintaining the CSI near the 0.0 level, and maintaining a low TA will help ease the constant pH rise and have to add acid constantly. Of course, the concept of using carbon dioxide is a good choice for pH control, but only when the alkalinity has been lowered.

If anyone sees something that I missed or has questions, please respond. Thanks.

Jsf721 said:

Won’t this system tell you current chlorine readings ?

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They haven’t released that part of the system yet. It tells you if your salt level is in range. Over the summer they’ll release an upgrade to add an ORP and PH probe. It looks like it’s just a new cell housing that you swap out. And also a port to add muriatic acid with a peristaltic pump if that’s something you want to do.

Not a day goes by that a member doesn't go the extra mile for a stranger. Some days not an hour goes by.

Well done @Buggs.

+3. Give your money to a 3rd party who said they'd pay the subs. The court won't care about the 3rd party when the sub isn't paid, you'll be responsible.

You then need to go after the 3rd party seperately, and in the case of a folded business, there may be nothing to go after. Or very little left once split however many ways there are lawsuits against the business.

DBissett said:

Heres the volts plus specs.

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If you have 230V running your pump, which you probably do, a Nidec Neptune NPTT225 motor will work.
Please check, or have someone check, your voltage. A good way is to just look at your circuit breaker for the pump. Is it a double-pole breaker, two handles connected? Then you have a 230V system.

Can you post pictures of your equipment pad so we can see everything? Include the labels on the pumps...

jmastron said:

(I leave the SWCG's dial at 100% and adjust the WiFi plug's on/off time to get the chlorinating I want, making sure it's within the pump run time).

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I'd recommend running your cell at some % other than 100. Running cells at 100% is not good for the catalytic coating on the plates. Along with cleaning your cell with acid, running a cell for prolonged periods at 100% shortens the life of the cell. 90% would be fine.

FYI: In answer to the OP's original question, I asked Taylor:

Jim: "What is a Taylor Kit #57087? How does it differ from a Taylor Kit K2006C?

Taylor:
"Good morning, Jim, The #57087 and the K-2006C are the same exact kit. If you are ordering through ECOLAB that is just their reference number for the K-2006C. Hope this helps! Please let us know if we can help in any way or have any questions!

Thank you,
Customer Service Representative
Taylor Water Technologies LLC, 31 Loveton Circle, Sparks, Maryland 21152
800-TEST KIT (837-8548), 410-472-4340,
www.taylortechnologies.com"

So i always said I would want a consistant system, good (swg) or bad (jug lugging), because knowing what to expect helps me sleep better.

But I always had to close because crazy leaves at the old place so I never put it into practice. At the new wide open yard, I'm opening real early and shutting it down near freezing. Ive found to my delight that when the temps are dancing the cold water shutoff, it only needs to kick on for a warmer day to match the low UV demand. 4 to 6 ppm goes a long way when it's cool. Once or twice I stepped in with LC when the FC was getting low and the SWG stayed off, but most weeks I didnt need to.

Welcome to the forum!

I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool

DBissett said:

Heres the volts plus specs.

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That tells me your pump is 1.5HP.

Still do not know what your actual voltage in your electrical wiring is.

Jsf721 said:

how often to you need to add salt or Muriatic acid?

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I add salt once a year in the spring if it needs it (because I pump water out and then the rain/snow fills it back up - normal evaporation and refilling results in no real change in salt levels)
Acid, never had to add it.

Jsf721 said:

I think I try this unit. Wish they had a 3.1 lb a day 60. Sadly the 55 is all they have making 2.0 lb a day. For a 25,000 gallon pool they think it will work. Any opinions ?

Thanks

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You say 25000, your signature says 38000

I'd go with the 60+ - looks like they are in-stock at Discount Salt Pool (no relationship, just where I bought mine) for $1399 (pick the Rj-45+, then pick the Upgrade for $10 option)

For us up north with friendlier UV demand, it's p-l-e-n-t-y of FC. And then some. Especially in your moderately shaded yard.

But you might care if the single speed pump needs a couple extra hours of runtime per day. PSEG will send you a Christmas card as a high donor.

JamesW said:

Just realize that a leak can destroy a motor pretty fast if water hits the bearings.

If you are not going to replace the seal now, watch for leaks on a very regular basis and fix it fast if a leak develops.

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+1
Can't remember how many times I have replaced, or had repaired, a motor where there was no evidence of a seal leak but the front bearing was destroyed and the shaft rusted. Because the cost to install a new seal was so minimal, but so very important, I just consider it the cost of business when a motor is replaced and there is no charge for it.

wireform said:

I'm not sure why anyone needs wifi connectivity for the cell. I mean you need to check the FC and need to do that at the pool so that's when you'd make the adjustment to the cell. There are times when the sun angle is stronger and the setting needs intervention and the reverse is the same but that's probably 4 times a season so again not sure what the gain is here.

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Raises hand. I do my testing in the kitchen, where I have water to clean things, consistent lighting, and can keep the reagents in a more controlled environment. And my pool is pretty far from the house, so once I determine I need to bump the SWCG up or down, it's really nice to do so from my phone. I plugged my generic SWCG into a $15 WiFi plug, which works well enough (I leave the SWCG's dial at 100% and adjust the WiFi plug's on/off time to get the chlorinating I want, making sure it's within the pump run time).

mm3621 said:

They are installed in the only one face facing south and in the large face facing west (not sure why they chose this orientation, they were already here when I bought the house).

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Facing South is the preferred orientation for PV solar panels in CA (Northern Hemisphere). West is the second best choice. So they did what they do. But if you have a large section facing North, that will work for pool solar. It is possible to split arrays across multiple roof sections, but the plumbing gets more complicated. The website to which I referred you explains some of that, but if you can fit all the necessary panels on one roof section, in one large array, that makes for the simplest installation. The exception is the manufacturer's recommendation. Some specify a max number of panels per array. If you need more panels, then you split them into two arrays, even if on the same roof section. And that website shows you how to plumb that (it's a bit counterintuitive, not how you might assume two arrays would connect).

Anywho, that's for later. It sounds to me like you are exploring options and gather info and I think that's great. Holler when ya need to.

Jandy advice, but likely just as applicable... @YippeeSkippy is in GA and she just leaves it off until late spring when water temp is up.



You don't have a heater in your signature. If you have a gas heater, you should wait until water temps are above 70 to avoid condensation corrosion...


Always maintain your FC for your CYA. Link-->FC/CYA Levels

AmberCrest said:

Looking at this contraption with 2025 eyes it seems kind of dumb but I have to admit that had I seen one in 1995, I think I would have been pretty amazed.

Anyway, what do you mean about longevity?
As for price, what I am seeing is crazy. Really, a GFCI breaker should take care of things but I can see paying a bit more for whatever might be in a good IP97/98 120>12v power supply as the 120 at least has the potential to be really unpleasant for anyone in the pool but several hundred for a waterproof 12v LED... Really is insane.

And I will definitely consider your note about breaking the end off to get past the old, overheated fiber ends and that lamp is not crazy money but first I need to confirm if anything in that box is salvageable. I'm sure the fan is toast as it's been sitting exposed for I don't know how long. I also suspect that any reflector will probably not be reflective.
I guess the color wheel has/had a motor that drives it? Probably also dead but I don't have the remote anyway...

Thanks!

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Longevity. Look for all the posts here, complaints, about how much they cost verses how long the last.

Reflector can be cleaned. Fan will probably have a lot of sider web, which will prevent it from starting. Removing that usually is all that is needed for the fan. On the rare occasion that I did have to replace one, it is a standard 12CM, 120V PC cooling fan.

If the power goes down when it comes back up will the functions resume ?

dldeuce said:

The wiring is a little better than maybe what the picture shows, but yeah. Looks like that wire terminal is designed for solid wire. The way you have to bend that wire around the bottom of the terminal and then up and over the screw, it's really hard to do that with this stranded wire. It wasn't wired much better than that before. I'll try to do better when I get the replacement.

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If you use the same wire, strip at about 1" from the end but do not remove the insulation completely. Move it so that about 1/2" is exposed and wrap that around the terminal. The wires will stay together better.
The best way to do it is to get some female "flag" terminal ends, crimp them on the wire, and use the spade terminals.

Chlorine levels are starting to hold steady, and PH is no longer rising, so I'm going to assume the majority of the AA has been cancelled out. Pool looks great again

Additionally, I swapped out the light myself and hooked up the transformer for it. So many colors!

Heres the volts plus specs.