So went and checked it out and gave him my test kit as I have a new one showing up Monday. As I expected the CYA tested off the chart. I did it three times to confirm and it was almost completely clouded out after only a couple 'squirts'. The attached picture was the lowest test and its halfway to 100 from the bottom. The owner left a log of the pool service he had been using ($130 a month) and it was serviced last 2 weeks ago. There was a couple small chunks in the floater but the sample didn't even turn color when adding the powder for FC drop test.
FC: 0
PH: 8
CYA: High
CH: 750
The sand filter was replaced new in 2023.
The pump didn't have receipt for replacement so I'm guessing it might be original?
The heater is broken and was deemed not repairable by the pool inspector.
The pool was drained and had a bunch of work done in 2017 for re-pebble and tile and new plumbing to include autofill
We estimated at about 15,000 gallons off quick measurements but he's going to confirm depth and better measurements tonight.
The auto was running the constantly the couple hours I was there. It was 30mph winds and in direct 95 degree sun all day but mine doesn't do that in the same conditions. Told him to get a bucket and showed him how to shut off auto fill and do bucket test.
I've never had to deal with algae so don't know for sure what it is but the returns all had orangish brown below them that could be brushed off. I'd assume it's been at 0 FC for quite a while. Pictures are in next post.
So it's looking like a minimum of 50-60% water exchange to get CYA down?

Does the spa get water through autofill or does the valve have to be open to the return jets to keep the level up?

Yes it appears not

joel98z said:

It seems I should see 120v correct?

Click to expand...

Let's slow down here.

By "Control Box" you mean the Aqualink relay?

Looking back at your post, you never found 120V at the transformer. I thought you did.

Go back to your Aqualink panel. Start at the relay that controls the lights.

Post pictures of your open Aqualink panel showing the wiring, breakers, and relays.

Find the wires in the Jandy that are attached to the relay that controls lighting. Then with the lights turned "on" at the Jandy, test those same color wires at the transformer. It should be 120V.

Test if there is 120V going into that relay, it should be at terminal 1 or 3 and to ground or neutral bar.

If not, is there voltage coming at the breaker? Test from the terminal to neutral or ground. Is the breaker tripped?

Is it a GFCI breaker?

Is there a GFCI in the light circuit that is tripped? If there is one on the side of the Jandy cabinet, the lights may have been wired through it and it tripped.

Reporting back here with my solution in case anyone else has the same type of scum. A pumice stick removed it easily.

Thanks!
So, replacing single speed Whisperflo and installing Whisperflo VST:
1--Remove black and red wires from the pump relay and connect the pump's black and red wires directly to pump breaker.
2--Connect green and yellow wires from automation cable from pump to COMM port on surge board.
3-- Do you keep all the wires connected to the J20 COMM port (two reds, two yellows, two greens, two blacks, coming from the salt board and the antenna) alone? Leave them connected right whwere they are?
4--Do you keep the white and yellow wires (coming from the large transformer)connected to the relay?
5--Anything else?

This is the way your PX300 looked when new.

High voltage 120V should go into the left side bottom knockout and connect to the colored wires.

Low voltage light connection should be made from the right side bottom knockout to the two black wires.

The high voltage and low voltage wires should never cross the divider for safety.

It seems I should see 120v correct?

Updated photo with the wires identified. The wires are completely disconnected from the transformer in this picture

I just purchased my “old version” IC40 today to replace the IC60 brick hanging on my plumbing. Hopefully this one will give me more years than the 60 did and then I’ll get the newer version after it’s had a few more years of beta testing . If it’s anything like their typical product development, they should have 90% of the bugs worked out in about 3-4 years …

JamesW said:

I think that the red circled ball valve is closed.

You can try opening it to see what happens.

Maybe it is closed for a reason?

Maybe the lines leak?

Note: The Hayward Dial-A-Flo Valves are gate valves or diverter valves, not ball valves.

View attachment 644537

Click to expand...

This was the solution. I never realized that could be opened and closed. The people that closed the pool must have closed it. Thank you JamesW!!

Every year I learn something new. Now it's time to great rid of the green water.

James L. said:

The green and yellow wires of the RS-485 cable coming from the vst pump connect to the salt surge board, and not the J20 COMM port?

Click to expand...

Yup, that is what I said.

The surge board connects to J20 so the comm will get there.

The green and yellow wires of the RS-485 cable coming from the vst pump connect to the salt surge board, and not the J20 COMM port?

PoorPoolOwner said:

1. Yes, I have a vinyl pool. (20x40 Lazy L) no issues at all.
3. It comes with a 60’ cord
4. I highly recommend the fine filter, it is worth the $50.
5. You can set up in the app a daily schedule to run. I have ours to come on daily at 8am. You’ll get a notification 2.5ish hours later when it’s done.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the response Jim.....I will order it online at Marina. Not sure there is any reason for me to call as this thread pretty much answers all my questions.

Two wires can be placed under each COMM port screw without problems.

You have two open COMM ports on the surge card on the back wall although one is missing the connector. They are circled below in red and yellow.

Use JP4, the red circle, to connect your pump to.

rhulse1 said:

Hello, l believe because of the angle of the picture it looks like it connected to both LV1 and LV2 however it’s only connected to the LV/1 section. Do you still want we to give it a try?

Click to expand...

Yes. Those two wires run to your heater.

Be the relay and connect them together and see if the heater runs.

Connect the pump’s power directly to a dedicated GFCI breaker in the EasyTouch load center or an external breaker panel. You won't use a relay.
Use a two-wire RS-485 communication cable to connect the pump to the EasyTouch COM port to control the pump.

I'm not sure if it standard to connect multiple controls to the com port.

@ajw22 or @Jimrahbe would know.

joel98z said:

Here is a little better picture with wires from transformer disconnected. So this picture shows transformer disconnected from White and black wire coming from control boxView attachment 644850View attachment 644851

Click to expand...

The diagram show the low voltages side has two black wires.

You are testing between a white wire and black wire.

Something is confused.

There is a divider between the lower half of the box.

One side should have the colored high voltage wires.

The other side should have the two black low voltage wires.

Identify the wires correctly.

ajw22 said:

He already confirmed he has 120V at the transformer.



That is not the way the PX300 works according to this diagram….

Click to expand...

Yup, got it wrong. There should be 12, 13, or 14 volts at blacks depending in which hi-voltage line was selected.

1poolman1 said:

Find the wires in the Jandy that are attached to the relay that controls lighting. Then with the lights turned "on" at the Jandy, test those same color wires at the transformer. It should be 120V. if not, find out if there is 120V going into that relay, should be at terminal 1 or 3 and to ground or neutral bar. If not, is there voltage coming at the breaker? Test from the terminal to neutral or ground. Is the breaker tripped? Is it a GFCI breaker? Is there a GFCI in the light circuit that is tripped? If there is one on the side of the Jandy cabinet, the lights may have been wired through it and it tripped.

Click to expand...

He already confirmed he has 120V at the transformer.

1poolman1 said:

If you have that 120V, you can test each of the blue, grey, yellow wires individually by having one probe on the wire and one on the ground bar, a bare piece of metal in the cabinet.
Blue should read 14, Yellow 13, Grey 12. You won't get those exact numbers in most cases, but it should be close. If you don't see that voltage the transformer is bad.

Click to expand...

That is not the way the PX300 works according to this diagram….

Hello, l believe because of the angle of the picture it looks like it connected to both LV1 and LV2 however it’s only connected to the LV/1 section. Do you still want we to give it a try?

joel98z said:

Here is a little better picture with wires from transformer disconnected. So this picture shows transformer disconnected from White and black wire coming from control box

Click to expand...

Find the wires in the Jandy that are attached to the relay that controls lighting. Then with the lights turned "on" at the Jandy, test those same color wires at the transformer. It should be 120V. if not, find out if there is 120V going into that relay, should be at terminal 1 or 3 and to ground or neutral bar. If not, is there voltage coming at the breaker? Test from the terminal to neutral or ground. Is the breaker tripped? Is it a GFCI breaker? Is there a GFCI in the light circuit that is tripped? If there is one on the side of the Jandy cabinet, the lights may have been wired through it and it tripped.
If you have that 120V, you can test each of the blue, grey, yellow wires individually by having one probe on the wire and one on the ground bar, a bare piece of metal in the cabinet.
Blue should read 14, Yellow 13, Grey 12. You won't get those exact numbers in most cases, but it should be close. If you don't see that voltage the transformer is bad.

Show me a picture of the entire electrical box showing the Fenwal module.

You either have a main PCB problem or a Fenwal problem as the first thing after powering up is the PCB tells the Fenwal to start the blower.