Pool lights stopped working, PX300, iAqualink RS

joel98z

Bronze Supporter
Jun 14, 2021
184
Wylie, TX
Pool Size
24000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
My pool lights suddenly stopped working. I have searched the forums and found the wire diagram for the PX300 and my understanding is I should see 120v on one side and 14v on the low voltage side with the lights turned on. With my lights on I see 8v and basically nothing on the low voltage side. Would this mean transformer is bad or perhaps something downstream like the iAqualink? Or am I even talking the voltage readings correctly? Thanks for any insight!!IMG_1303.jpegIMG_1304.jpeg
 
I cannot see where the two probes are for each test.

For the 120V input test, you should test between the blue/grey/yellow wire and the white wire.

For the low voltage side, test between the black wires.

Disconnect the light wires before the test. Then, test the voltage between those two wires.
 
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@ajw22 I think I was taking the reading wrong… Here is a little cleaner shot of the high voltage side, based on the diagram @JamesW provided I should see 120 volts correct, with the lights turned on? Picture shows Backwire from control box Connected to Blue Wire on transformer , white wires from control box connected to white wire on transformer. Thanks again for your assistance!IMG_1307.jpeg
 
Here is a little better picture with wires from transformer disconnected. So this picture shows transformer disconnected from White and black wire coming from control boxIMG_1309.jpegIMG_1308.png
 
Here is a little better picture with wires from transformer disconnected. So this picture shows transformer disconnected from White and black wire coming from control box
Find the wires in the Jandy that are attached to the relay that controls lighting. Then with the lights turned "on" at the Jandy, test those same color wires at the transformer. It should be 120V. if not, find out if there is 120V going into that relay, should be at terminal 1 or 3 and to ground or neutral bar. If not, is there voltage coming at the breaker? Test from the terminal to neutral or ground. Is the breaker tripped? Is it a GFCI breaker? Is there a GFCI in the light circuit that is tripped? If there is one on the side of the Jandy cabinet, the lights may have been wired through it and it tripped.
If you have that 120V, you can test each of the blue, grey, yellow wires individually by having one probe on the wire and one on the ground bar, a bare piece of metal in the cabinet.
Blue should read 14, Yellow 13, Grey 12. You won't get those exact numbers in most cases, but it should be close. If you don't see that voltage the transformer is bad.
 
Find the wires in the Jandy that are attached to the relay that controls lighting. Then with the lights turned "on" at the Jandy, test those same color wires at the transformer. It should be 120V. if not, find out if there is 120V going into that relay, should be at terminal 1 or 3 and to ground or neutral bar. If not, is there voltage coming at the breaker? Test from the terminal to neutral or ground. Is the breaker tripped? Is it a GFCI breaker? Is there a GFCI in the light circuit that is tripped? If there is one on the side of the Jandy cabinet, the lights may have been wired through it and it tripped.

He already confirmed he has 120V at the transformer.


If you have that 120V, you can test each of the blue, grey, yellow wires individually by having one probe on the wire and one on the ground bar, a bare piece of metal in the cabinet.
Blue should read 14, Yellow 13, Grey 12. You won't get those exact numbers in most cases, but it should be close. If you don't see that voltage the transformer is bad.
That is not the way the PX300 works according to this diagram….

1746912207178-png.644828
 

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Here is a little better picture with wires from transformer disconnected. So this picture shows transformer disconnected from White and black wire coming from control boxView attachment 644850View attachment 644851
The diagram show the low voltages side has two black wires.

You are testing between a white wire and black wire.

Something is confused.

There is a divider between the lower half of the box.

One side should have the colored high voltage wires.

The other side should have the two black low voltage wires.

Identify the wires correctly.
 

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This is the way your PX300 looked when new.

High voltage 120V should go into the left side bottom knockout and connect to the colored wires.

Low voltage light connection should be made from the right side bottom knockout to the two black wires.

The high voltage and low voltage wires should never cross the divider for safety.

1746919139160.png
1746919424965.png
 
It seems I should see 120v correct?
Let's slow down here.

By "Control Box" you mean the Aqualink relay?

Looking back at your post, you never found 120V at the transformer. I thought you did.

Go back to your Aqualink panel. Start at the relay that controls the lights.

Post pictures of your open Aqualink panel showing the wiring, breakers, and relays.

Find the wires in the Jandy that are attached to the relay that controls lighting. Then with the lights turned "on" at the Jandy, test those same color wires at the transformer. It should be 120V.

Test if there is 120V going into that relay, it should be at terminal 1 or 3 and to ground or neutral bar.

If not, is there voltage coming at the breaker? Test from the terminal to neutral or ground. Is the breaker tripped?

Is it a GFCI breaker?

Is there a GFCI in the light circuit that is tripped? If there is one on the side of the Jandy cabinet, the lights may have been wired through it and it tripped.
 
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By control box I am referring to the Jandy RS box that controls everything.. I will get those pics for ya. Thanks again for taking time to help me out.