Woody007 said:

but I can't see how it would come out.

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Use a dental pick, tooth pick, small fork, don't damage it, but get it out and lube it. Clean both mating surfaces.

Please give us exact make and model of the pump.

Pictures of your pad would help...

mas985 said:

Are you running the pump in VS (RPM) or VF (GPM) mode?

When in VS mode, the addition of the booster would increase the flow rate slightly which might improve the expelling of air in the pump basket as well as increasing the suction in the pump basket thereby helping to seal the pump lid.

The bottom line is if there is air in the pump basket and running at high speed does not clear the air, there is an air leak somewhere and most likely it is the pump lid.

Have you done this yet?

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I run in GPM mode most of the time. I use RPM mode on the quick clean option set to calculated 3K rpm and I use that value to check DE filter pressure. With clean filter and 3K I have 20 psi at the filter. The air is gone when I have to booster on but returns in a couple of hours after I turn off the booster even running at 3K rpm.
The pump is only a few weeks old. I did remove and lube up the two drain plugs on the pump as well and took out the lid o-ring and cleaned/lubed it. The lid is different in that the clear part appears to be an insert inside of the ring that tightens the lid. It has an o-ring in it too, but I can't see how it would come out.
Is there any way that too large of a pump could be the issue? I was a 1.5 single speed Challenger and replaced with 3hp VSF. Pipe is 1.5" for the most part.

It's supposed to be hot this coming weekend, so I cranked up the solar heater today. And I've got a bunch of garden projects to do this week. Who knows, I might just have to go swimming in a couple days!!

You have enough space to use couplers on the 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions. You could try using a reamer as suggested by others. I've successfully used the Reed Tool version on a valve. I used heavy-bodied glue for that joint as the slip fit was a bit loose compared to new fittings. I've had no leaks.

Just to confirm as there's sometimes confusion: you are saying you filled the CYA test tube with just a small amount of liquid before the dot was completely obscured?

yeamonn said:

Not yet should I get that going first?

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Yes, you can't test water that's been sitting stagnant.

Get that up and running for at least a few hours before testing again. During that time you can take the readings and instructions you got from the pool store and deposit it in the recycling bin. It's where any pool store test results belong.

rbrown226 said:

I am replacing my Hayward dual speed pump with a Xtremepower dual speed. On the Hayward, there are four wires (Red, Black, Blue, and Green). On the new pump, there is a switch to change speeds from low to high. The wiring of the new pump has only two connections and a ground. The Hayward has three wiring connections. Am I able to wire the new pump to have my controller change the speeds instead of using the switch on the pump? If So, how do I wire that? If it is not possible, how do I wire the new pump with only two terminals?

Thank you!

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What are you using now to control 2 speeds? Show a picture of the new motor with the wiring compartment open.

Interesting that my salt reading is declining throughout the day, so maybe the cell is really bad. The reading has not increased when I put salt in the pool. I could have both a cell and display issue. I have heard that the Leslie's cell tester is not very accurate.

jonpcar said:

In any case, the stress over time on the red circled tubes is where the OP is having the problem…same as mine previously.

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Interesting. So acid, UV, gravity and the gyrations the pump puts it through, yah, those are some harsh conditions for that little tube, for sure.

As I said, use the good stuff, keep it out of the sun, and replace it periodically. That's pretty much all you can do.

You could make a note of how long it takes to start to develop the cracks. Figure out 50-75% of that time, and set a calendar event on your phone for that time to remind you to change out the tubing with new. Being proactive with it would be better than waiting for it to fail before replacing it.

Donldson said:

Do you have your pump up and circulating the water yet?

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Not yet should I get that going first?

starrock77 said:

I have a pentair 3 way valve body that has been cracking over the years and I have been repairing it with a JB weld product. This year I would like to replace the valve but I'm not sure how to do it. It is very close to a T fitting and an elbow. If I cut the valve out, my pipe will be too short on all 3 sides. There isn't much room for a coupler either. Should I try the method of trying to remove the valve without cutting the pipe. IE heat, scoring and chiseling away? Any thoughts.View attachment 643471

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Trying to replace a valve into three existing lines is going to require that the plumbing be cut. There is no way around that, unfortunately.

PoolStored said:

That pump is old. The new intelliflo3 pumps have an optional relay board that can control the SWG. Cannot get that for this pump.

44/60 doesn't matter. They use the same energy. Can be run 115v.

I'll call @ajw22 and @Jimrahbe again and try to have them weigh in on the easy touch IC integration. Like to get that before you commit to RJ.

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Fantastic! Thanks for reaching out to them. I'll wait to hear back from you.

The quick coupler comes apart, so it is easy to install.

Just cut off the old union nut.

The only problem is if the tab hits the bottom of the lid when fully tightened.

You can install the nut with the lid off, but if the tab is pointing straight up, it looks like it might interfere with the lid.

Yes thank you. So what is the "degree of the edge" I am looking for to get the water shooting OUT over the coping?
Is there a guidance on the type of edge and how far out the coping stone should be?

zendril said:

I may have a slightly different lead here.

This connector to the gas valve has 3 leads.

The bottom one appears to be rusted/broken completely.

The pilot light comes on and the igniter stops clicking when this happens, but no gas through the main burner pipe after.

Before I try to replace the solenoid, does this seem like a reasonable this to be looking at? Any clue what that bottom red wire is controlling?

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DO NOT try to put that gas valve back in service. With corrosion like in the picture it needs to be replaced. There are no "user serviceable" parts in a gas valve and it is dangerous to try without special tools and training.

tcat said:

Mine doesn't do waterline since brush is in the middle, but seems to do walls fairly well randomly. I mainly bought it for the swivel cord since the 4WD doesn't have one. I'd just read so many Dolphins needing repair, I didn't want to mess with them. Hopefully these will last!

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Does the reva have a setting to do the "floor only". I would not always want the walls scrubbed on my vinyl liner. Maybe once in a while. How did it hold up?

jonpcar said:

Here is where I bought my official Stenner tubing from last time, now 100’ for $43.

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Note that Ebay page says nothing about "acid" or "chemical." That's not to say that tubing isn't rated for acid, but it doesn't claim that.

Versus this page that does say "chemical," and a FAQ mentions something about 'an "A" rating for Muriatic Acid, 20 Baume.'

Both pages claim the same part number, "AK4010B," but the latter page doesn't call out "Stenner."

It's probably the same stuff, but "acid rated" and "chemical tubing" are the terms you're looking for.
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Speaking of which, note the "20 Baume" designation. That's the 31% muriatic you get from the pool stores. Sometimes the big box stores max out at 14.5%. I buy the 31%, but I never use that full strength in my tank. And Pentair recommends a 1:1 dilution with water, which is what I do.

So I would recommend to never use muriatic at full strength, but dilute it at least 1:1. That should help the parts last longer.
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There's another reason to dilute, too. My tank hold about 3.5 gallons. So there's never more than 1.75 gallons of 31% in there (diluted to 3.5 gallons). Should my IntellipH ever go kaflooey, and empty the entire contents into my pool (right after I fill the acid tank, of course), the most my pool would ever have to endure is 1.75 gallons of acid. Which will trash the pH for a short time, but not cause any permanent damage, and not be dangerous to swimmers.
So if any of you are connecting 15 or 30 gallon Stenner tanks to your pool, or even the 7.5 gallon, consider the consequences should your little pump get stuck on. Even worse if you're not diluting the acid. Not only the consequences to your pool and its equipment, but more importantly to you and your family and guests. Do the math.

There's a story about such an incident. A public pool, and their chlorine tank system failed and dumped all the liquid chlorine into the pool. Kids jumped in and ended up getting a trip to the hospital. So it can happen.

I like my little 3.5 gallon tank. Even at that size I only have to fill it a few times a year, so that's a fair trade and a good balance between safety vs convenience. Think it through, just because you have a big tank, doesn't mean you have to fill it up all the way.

sls said:

Yes, I wished I had seen that one for that price before I bought the REVA!! I think I would have been happy with it and saved some money . I paid 797.00 for the REVA and it works really good so far. I was happy that it has an option to just clean the floor since I don't have a lot of issues with walls or waterline. I can have it do them to if I happen to need to.

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Does the reva have a setting to do the "floor only". I would not always want the walls scrubs on my vinyl liner. Maybe once in a while. How did it hold up?

That pump is old. The new intelliflo3 pumps have an optional relay board that can control the SWG. Cannot get that for this pump.

44/60 doesn't matter. They use the same energy. Can be run 115v.

I'll call @ajw22 and @Jimrahbe again and try to have them weigh in on the easy touch IC integration. Like to get that before you commit to RJ.

How old are your reagents?
How do you store them?

On a side note - what is your present CH result.
Ch will climb to an unmanageable level in 2-3 years with our hard water. Many of us have plumbed our water softener to our autofill lines to mitigate this.

I can drain/refill my 12k pool in Chandler for less than $50 increase in water bill? Are you in PHX proper or one of the 'burbs?

What is the pH, TA and CH of your fill water?

I had the fun of doing this last year. Fixed the one union and then the other gave way.