Comparator vs drop test

With frequent testing you'll know what the recent daily demand has been and you'll use that, in conjunction with the approximate color of the block test to dose by your gut.

It will take a while to feel confident with the block test. Most choose to skip it entirely, myself included. The drop tests become second nature quickly and nobody misses the extra 15 seconds from their lives. If you do them side by side long enough, you'll either get better at the block test, or decide its not for you.
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Return Fitting Glued directly to Metal?

So we finally decided to get out vinyl liner replaced. I took the opportunity to replace all the flex pipe with 2 inch PVC. The pool is old. Originally built in the ~70s. Refreshed some time in the 90s or early 2000s with the current flex pipe. Its a really bad setup with 1 skimmer, 1 suction and 1 return. The skimmer barely had any flow and the backpressure was horrible.

I knew it would be a production but I wasn't expecting this.


I thought I felt a threaded fitting so I dug under the concrete and slapped a pipe wrench on and literally nothing moved. Today the pool was drained enough to get the face plate off. This is what I saw.

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It looks like Gasket -> Metal -> Gasket -> Liner -> Faceplate. I'm not seeing the bulkhead fitting that should be there.

Second Angle:

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Back Side:
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So my question is:
Has anyone seen this before? Any ideas on getting it off?

My thought is to Dremel with a cut wheel around the fitting as close to the metal as possible without damaging it. Then sand / shave off whatever leftovers remain .
Looks like whatever was on the water side is already removed. Have you tried just pulling harder from the flex pipe side? Possible it’s threaded into the steel wall and then caulked? Try loosening counterclockwise from the back (how to do that I’m not sure!

Jandy JXIQ400NK - so different estimates

Folks, I am in Dallas and have a few estimates to replace my 19 year old (working) LT400 heater with new Jandy JXIQ400NK.

Problem is that, an established pool store quoted me $5,800 while moms and pops, still pool professionals, quoted as low as $4,300. This is turnkey including the modifications to plumbing, haul away and the new heater.

I am a bit hesitant to pay as low as $4,300 including materials and labor; as the cheapest heater itself online is for $4,150; but not sure how much the pool stores buy it for.

What do you think?
What was the name of the mom and pop store?- I am getting a very high quote from my pool repair company

DIY Hybrid Pool Renovation

- Originally built/installed 1988
- Made by Hallmark
- 18,000 gallons
- 3 foot shallow end, 6.5 foot deep end
- Approximately 36x18 feet
- 300 square feet of fiberglass, ~700 square feet of gunite

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A little backstory:

We purchased this home in 2022, partly due to the great back yard and pool. Pools aren't usually a big selling point here in the Pacific Northwest (Seattle area), but it was for my wife and me. My wife's aunt had a pool when she was a kid and she has a lot of fond memories of spending summer days there. My best friend growing up had a pool, so I also share my wife's nostalgia for spending summers playing in a pool. We have two young boys, so we hope to pass on that love of the water to them as well.

The first summer I spent a lot of time and money trying to wrap my head around understanding the basic maintenance and chemistry side of pool ownership. Despite my best efforts, I was always fighting water clarity issues. The pool always looked like someone had poured a couple gallons of milk into the water no matter how much I ran the filter or how dialed my chemicals were. It finally dawned on me that the issue wasn't the chems, it was the paint chalking. The particles were so small they were just going right through my sand filter. It was then I knew I was going to have to do something to fix this. As an interim solution, I started adding cellulose powder to the sand filter and it made a huge improvement in filter performance, I'll definitely keep doing this moving forward.

The previous owners of the house bought it in 2006 and pretty much did nothing to the pool besides the standard maintenance and upkeep. The only exception was they drained the pool in 2016 and painted the gunite portion with a DIY pool paint of some sort. Fast forward to 2025 and that pool paint (what's left of it) is 9 years old. The fiberglass sides have never been painted luckily. As far as I can tell, this pool has never been resurfaced since it was installed, it's just been patched a few times when the plaster flaked and painted many times.

In 2023 I refreshed the mechanicals because the pump was from sometime around 1999 and I wanted to replace it before I HAD to replace it, plus I wanted a more efficient variable speed pump (Pentair Superflo VST 1.5hp). I knew the sand in the filter hadn't been replaced since at least 2006 so I changed that out as well. Since I had it all apart I installed new laterals and a combo valve too. I also redid a bunch of the piping while I was at it. The heater is a Jandy LXi 250 that runs on propane.

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For those with hybrid pools, you know it's a major challenge to find a competent company to restore your pool. Here in the Seattle area it's even more difficult because pools aren't a popular home feature, so we have a limited selection of contractors for pool building and restoration. Due to that scarcity, there isn't a lot of competition so prices to have anything done are easily double or triple the amount you'd expect to pay in areas where pools are more popular. Throw in the added complexity of a hybrid pool and it's even worse.

This project started by me getting several quotes from area pool companies. I was getting $20k+ quotes for JUST replastering the gunite, and no one wanted to touch the fiberglass portion.

I finally found a company that would do the whole pool. They utilized a fiber-reinforced epoxy of some sort to coat the entire pool. I'm pretty sure it was something very similar to the process used in this thread: Need Refurbish Hybrid Pool Help

Of course, they were the highest bid at $30k, but that did not include the labor to repair the osmotic blisters in the walls.

At this point, I decided that if I want this done the way I want I'm just going to have to do it myself. I would consider myself someone with DIY capabilities well above the average person so I don't have a lot of concerns about being able to complete the work myself (I have taken on many similarly complicated projects in the past). I do have some worries about being able to get the work done quickly enough to actually get to enjoy the pool during the short period of time we get summer here in Seattle, but we'll worry about that later.

The first step, of course, is draining the pool. My pump can move some serious water and it was empty in under 5 hours.

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Here is the general breakdown of the work I'll be doing:
1. Drain pool (done!)
2. Repair osmotic blisters
3. Remove old paint/epoxy and loose plaster
4. Patch/smooth out gunite as needed, repair cracks if any found
5. Industrial epoxy coating (not a consumer grade product)
6. Industrial epoxy top coat (UV stable, also not a consumer grade product)
7. Retile waterline
8. Fill and enjoy for many years

I'll be documenting the whole process and sharing details as I go along. I'm doing this in a way and using products that I'm pretty sure hasn't been done before (or at least that I could find any evidence of on the internet or talking to technical support for the products I'll be utilizing), so this whole thing will be a bit of an experiment.

If I'm successful, this could be a promising new way for hybrid pool owners to revive their pools. If it doesn't work, I'll be out a few thousand dollars and will just have to pay to have the pros do it.
Depending on where exactly you are located, consider removing the hydrostatic plug from the main drain (or deep end side) to help prevent ground water from pushing the shell up out of the ground. Maybe less risk that a full shell but easy to do now if one is there.

Any experience with Chlorworks as an Intellichlor replacement?

Doo,

You have com error because I doubt your 'fake' IC60 can communicate with the EasyTouch.. The EasyTouch will still turn the cell on and off, but you will have to set the output at the cell.

It could also be that you have a bad power center... The power center needs to supply the cell with about 35 Volts DC... If you have a voltmeter your can test between the large Red and Black wires going to the cell. Generally, this voltage is about 30 VDC when the cell is making chlorine and about 40 VDC when the cell is at rest.

Thanks,

Jim R.

NEED POOL CLEAR QUICK

For a side pump, you can use your existing pump or buy a cheap single speed pump.

Get a 1/2 or 3/4 hp pump and not bigger.

Put a valve on the output to control the flow.

Put a fitting on the suction port to connect a vacuum hose.

Get a pump that is self priming and not made for above ground pools.

Above ground pool pumps do not self prime and will not work well for the purpose.
Darn I was just about to buy an above ground filter to avoid using ours.

Pool math saving for eternity

Thanks, I've been working hard the last couple of weeks to address some issues with performance on the server as we approach 'busy' season. There were a number of things we were obligated to update because technology never stops moving. That, combined with a bit of a tipping point in terms of app/server usage growing caused a perfect storm in a couple of areas. Things that were never a problem before started accumulating. Fortunately this is always solvable with a bit of work and analysis.

I've made a number of changes that have significantly improved performance, and one more this morning that should help too, but meant there were a few minutes the service was 'restarting' to deploy them, and you seem to have been caught saving a log during that time. Sorry!

Will continue monitoring things and making improvements here and there as needed!
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Any experience with Chlorworks as an Intellichlor replacement?

Hello! I'm opening my pool for 2025 and I replaced my 2 year old Intellichlor IC40 because it appeared to have stopped working. Last summer (early in the season) I cleaned it with acid because it was flaking out, and it never recovered. I ran on liquid chlorine all summer because I couldn't afford to replace it and it died before the 2 year warranty expired. After talking to the installer, and not getting much help by way of corroboration of when I first notified him that it died, and not feeling optimistic about getting it replaced or repaired under warranty, I bought a 60K gallon rated Chlorworks model CWPC60. I figured that since I was saving money on the brand name I would get a higher capacity rated model so it wouldn't have to work as hard as the IC40 had.

The Chlorworks was a super easy one for one replacement. While I will be relying on water testing to know if it's working properly, I am concerned about it already. I've also emailed Chlorworks support and will work it through Amazon as well, but two things are happening. First, just like my IC40, my Intellitouch panel is reporting "comms error". The other thing is that the SWG itself, once it passes the water flow testing, goes to all green lights, including "Generating" (which is harder to see in my attached photo because of the angle). After a few minutes, it does to a single red light (Warning, inspect cell) and stays there. I'm not sure what would cause that considering it's brand new out of the box. It definitely looks to be well constructed and not cheap.

If you have experience with this model or have any ideas please let me know. Right now I am in SLAM mode using liquid chlorine, but would sure love to not have to do that all summer long again.

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Reno, advice needed

No. Pucks add CYA, they are not sustainable. You either go (LC) OR (SWG), or (use pucks until your CYA get to 60, convert to liquid, allow CYA to drop to 30, go back to pucks) or (use pucks until your CYA gets to 60, drain and replace enough to get to 30, then continue with pucks.
Read this:

Correct. The VSP has it's own clock and configurable programming and should be wired directly to GFCI breaker.

In TX? Pfffffft...no question. Get one that is rated for 2x your pool volume.
Good to know, I will look into a SWG
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Filter