IC-40 Dead???

OK - went out and did the test again twice. Best I can tell chlorine was around 5. The drops come out a little fast on this new bottle for some reason so I have to be very deliberate.
Do the test again. Wipe the tip of the reagent with a wet paper towel before you use it. It will remove any static charge that is reducing the drop size. This happens every now and then.

New pool owner, looking for guidance

Hi,

I just purchased a home with a saltwater pool and we just moved in last week. The pool is pretty bad and covered in algae. As of today, I am receiving these issues for low salt and flow.

I cleaned out the skimmer today and ran the robot to clean up the bottom. I plan on getting salt tomorrow morning at the store. I did water testing today and Ph is 6.8 and chlorine level doesn't even register it’s so low.

As someone who knows nothing about this, any advice would help. I called the pool store and they can’t get someone out there to help and show me what to do for 2 weeks.

Thank you in advance for you patience and help. I really don’t know where to start here. I’ve been trying to find the answer on the blogs but no success yet.

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Fiber to LED conversion

I have these fiberstar fixtures and would like to convert to the PAL Treo micro.
These were for the shears above them, not sure how to remove them maybe glued into the conduit?
The fiber is in a 1" conduit so the Treo's would work but these are pretty shallow not sure how well they would light up.
I can't find any info on these as far as how they were installed or how to remove them.

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Tips on how to clean intelliPH acid injection fitting ?


Short version: You replace it periodically.

IC-40 Dead???

Will put some in acid tomorrow. It "feels" like what I would imagine calcium flakes would feel like (if that makes any sense). I cleaned my SWG about a month ago with diluted acid (and was promptly told on TFP that that was not good!). Anyway, it was clean except for some oak pollen that made its way past the filter. Bubbled for a couple minutes but no build up of scale or anything that "looked" bad in the fins.
I did the chlorine test just before it got dark. Sun was already set and it's overcast. Hope that's ok?

It's dark now - I'll fire up the pump and turn off the SWG for 30 minutes and do another test just to be sure.

Question about app for Sta-Rite Intellipro VSF 356666a

I have had this pump for a few years but recently had a new light added as just re-tiled and plastered pool. I have been searching the web to see if I can sync or control this pump via an app. I have tried the Pentair app but cannot locate a "connect" button on the pump. Is this a pump that can be controlled by an app? Thank you

CC - Wont go down!

Thanks for your feedback, replacement of water is bloody expensive when you heat it to 31 Deg mind!!

Haha … my water hits 31°C from sun exposure on any given afternoon starting June 1st … 🥵

The Dryden Aqua people are in your neck of the woods (Scotland). You might look into their filtration systems to see if that’s something you’d invest in. They do sell an Advanced Oxidation Process (AOP) cell that uses UV/peroxide injections to reduce CCs. The only issue there is that a peroxide based AOP system will reduce FC levels so its use would have to be timed in such a way as to not compete with your chlorination process.

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New Plaster & Vacuuming

Welcome to TFP.


Why no wheeled cleaner for first 30 days? Plaster is sufficiently hard once the pool is full of water. Pool cleaners can be installed and utilized after about two days if there is no plaster dust forming. The reason that tracks develop is usually from plaster dust being "packed down" by the pool cleaner wheels and then not removed by brushing. So it can look like an "indention" (and discolored) but it is not an indention. Brushing afterwards can help prevent the plaster dust from sticking on the plaster.

Upgrade Options?

Im going to see what other options are out there for pumps compatible with prologic controls.
I guess getting a 2.7hp may be a bit overkill. I have a 1.7hp now for the pool and its perfectly fine.

Was thinking stronger was better just if i wanted the waterfall to be stronger and the fountain to go higher/further.
Im just trying to justify if the cost is worth it.

The pumps i have now are both a simple on/off control through the prologic even though they are both Hayward.
I guess if you dont have anything better to compare it to, you dont know what you are missing out on :)

New VS Pump - help with timers please

I upgraded to a Hayward W3SP2603VSP pump and am having a hard time figuring out the settings to have it run at a set speed until I manually change it. Pump is stand alone, no automation. The way I read the manual if I set the start and end time as the same the pump would just continue running and not shut off. Last night it shut off with the timer set 12a-12a. What am I missing? Anyone share their settings?

IC-40 Dead???

Hi all - just getting back to this (stupid work got in the way all week!). I did however get my reagent refill kit from TFT so I'm good to go on that front. Tonight is the night for the overnight test!
I just checked using the drop test and my chlorine is at 5.5 and CYA is around 50 or so (I'm never sure on that test...). Will report back in the morning with chlorine level.

Just to complicate matters I noticed this white scaley stuff in the deep end. It's very brittle. Still holding on to hope my SWG isn't dead...

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Spa Leak

I've been troubleshooting a spa leak. Have it narrowed down to the main drains/suction line for the source of the leak. While troubleshooting, I pulled the drain covers off and noticed these 2 holes with no plugs. Should these bottom threaded holes be plugged? I am noticing that when my spa is fully drained, a few inches of water will find its way back in through these main drains. I'm assuming this is ground water and not sure if it's coming in through these bottom holes or if it's coming in through a line leak to the main drains. Any ideas or knowledge with these open threaded holes down there? I've attached a picture without the covers on. Thank you
Not sure what the third hole is, but the two with the yellow circles appear to be the sumps with side ports to connect the two together as main drains are required to be split and then connect under the surface to the single suction pipe that goes to the pump. Here's an example of a Hayward (upside down):
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Damaged Waterfall Weir

As to PlastAid vs. Pool Putty. Pool Putty is just a 2-part epoxy that adheres to the surface to whatever it is applied. With effort, or time, it can be removed.
PlastAid is a solvent based product that will etch into and chemically weld to the plastic on which it is used. It becomes a part of the surface as opposed to being stuck onto it.
There are some plastics that won't work, like the plastics that buckets are made of. Styrene, ABS, PVC, yes.
Great. I'll try Plast-Aid on this part and also order the replacement part you identified. A couple good options.

Damaged Waterfall Weir

Thanks for the additional information. If this waterfall fixture is designed to be installed upside down, as it was in this case, then the design would have considered water that is retained after winterization, and that shouldn't have been the cause of the damage. So still curious about that.
As to PlastAid vs. Pool Putty. Pool Putty is just a 2-part epoxy that adheres to the surface to whatever it is applied. With effort, or time, it can be removed.
PlastAid is a solvent based product that will etch into and chemically weld to the plastic on which it is used. It becomes a part of the surface as opposed to being stuck onto it.
There are some plastics that won't work, like the plastics that buckets are made of. Styrene, ABS, PVC, yes.

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