JamesW said:

Probably freeze damage.

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Is this something I should take up with the company that closed the pool, you think? Or just stop using them and take the L?

Pas_pool said:

Looks to be between 7.5-7.8

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Okay cool. I’ll throw a little more acid in tonight to bring the pH down a little more

Newdude said:

You have less variance than the cell, but you may be off and the cell may be right if they are close. If they are far apart, trust yours.

No. I like to run the lower 3000s because we start tasting the salt more at 3k. So I'll start at 3400 or so and let the rain dilute it down to 3000 before adding more.

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Ok I should have asked before I added salt. I’ll let it dilute. Or depending on my cya maybe dump and fill a little.

PoolStored said:

Would really help keep your CH down, and not have to drain all the time...

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You're not wrong but, its not happening. This is only the 3rd time I've drained in 12 years. I converted to salt two years ago and the only reason I drained this year was to acid wash the pool, it had never been done in my time of owning it.

PoolStored said:

Could be. Also looks downward or upward pressure cracked it. Never know which...
Depends on your skill for DIY. I do all my own, but I'm handy.
Ball valves are horible. When you re-plumb, use diverter valves. Jandy, Pentair, Hayward and CMP all make good valves.
Make sure to use a high-temp union on the input to the pump.
I'd replace the single speed pump at the same time. A VSP will payback fairly quickly in reduced electricity costs. It will also be quieter.

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Thanks for the info. I'm pretty handy but have never done plumbing before.

Sorry, my signature is out of date and I already have a VSP -- I'll get that updated.

Would really help keep your CH down, and not have to drain all the time...

PoolStored said:

Do you have an autofill? Why not connect it to your water softener, then your CH will not rise all the time.

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We used to have a water softner, we took it out when it failed, Never replaced it. The one we had was undersized for the house in general to begin with.

Probably freeze damage.

The handles routinely break as they get old and brittle and the valves get hard to turn.

CYA degrades over time, but that seems like a lot...only 30 days?
How old are your reagents?
Do the test again and follow these instructions:

Could be. Also looks downward or upward pressure cracked it. Never know which...
Depends on your skill for DIY. I do all my own, but I'm handy.
Ball valves are horible. When you re-plumb, use diverter valves. Jandy, Pentair, Hayward and CMP all make good valves.
Make sure to use a high-temp union on the input to the pump.
I'd replace the single speed pump at the same time. A VSP will payback fairly quickly in reduced electricity costs. It will also be quieter.

Pkern said:

My question is this: how low must the chlorine go before resuming the tests for the other levels? TIA

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Only test effected by the FC being above 10 ppm is pH. The others will all test correctly. TA color(s) may be affected. That is described in Extended Test Kit Directions Archives

Hi all,
Thank you for the help - my SLAM process cleaned up the water well. No more chlorine drop overnight.
My question is this: how low must the chlorine go before resuming the tests for the other levels? TIA

Do you have an autofill? Why not connect it to your water softener, then your CH will not rise all the time.

Please add your SWCG to your signature.
You need to have 50 ppm borates in the water to lessen the creation of scale in your SWCG.

It does not matter what level your TA and pH are when you add it. Just use Poolmath to calculate the amounts of acid needed to lower pH. Be sure you input the level of borates you added into Poolmath.

Thanks so much! Ordering now. I'll be back next weekend for advice after draining and testing and getting cya back in line. Amazing how fast you forget everything, when you don't do it for a year.

Dwiessner said:

but should I also not trust their test?

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You replaced a portion of your water and their test said your CYA went up? No, you should not trust them.

Order replacement reagents for your kit, but be prepared for bad news. The CYA test reagent is particularly stable. If you only added a couple drops and the dot was obscured then 200 ppm would be optimistic.

Get your kit ordered. Get this-->TF-Pro Salt
Best value for the money. Period.
Do not trust leslie's tests. We will not make recommendations based on Pool Store testing.
I would replace (not drain) as much water as you can (like all of it) while you are waiting for the kit. Easier to just start over.
See "No Drain Water Exchange" here:

LisaBgame said:

I think I could. This may sound like a dumb question but will water come gushing out if I unscrew this? Do I just unscrew the bottom one?

I just bought this rubber strap wrench set

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Depends on the level of the pad in relationship to the water level. If you’ve got valves on the suction side of the pump close them. If you have any valves on the return side, close them. Post up some pictures of the entire pad and valves. You’ll probably need to unscrew both unions at the filter. Some water will drain out of the filter tank for sure.

My kit is from 2021. I tested cya first, and that was the weird test. I dropped like 4 drops in and couldn't see the dot. Off the charts. I figured, man it's either incredibly high, or this kit is jacked. Then I tested salt. Which it said was on the low end, and my swg also says it's low, but leslies says it's 5000.

i haven't drained water from the pool in some time. Probably 2 or 3 years, when my filter cracked and drained a bunch without my permission. Is it a bad idea to go ahead and drain some anyway, while I'm waiting for a new kit? I just had a new roof put on the house, and neighbors were doing landscaping that kept covering the bottom of the pool with dirt. I vacuumed it, and cleaned the filter, but since I haven't drained any in a while, and all indications seem that cya is super high, seems like not a bad idea to drain some now, while I wait?

I don't trust leslies advice on what to add, but should I also not trust their test?

A tradition in Iceland…

Read Lighting Basics - Further Reading

Noting serviceable in the transformer unless it is a wire connection problem.