Should i use some hydrogen peroxide to lower FC? I am afraid is going to take forever to get to 3-4 from 20/22…

Also found more cracks in the pool.

Getting very stressed because company closed down (was opened for 40 years so I trusted them).

Oh my...

Newdude said:

Any equivalent maths works

Click to expand...

Are you familiar with letting poolmath do the calcs for you ? (Upper left menu : effects of adding, swg ).

You can chose FC created, pump hours or %, once you select your model and your volume. If you enter 2 it will give you the 3rd, for example 10 hours at 25% will make X.X FC. Then you can mess with them all to find however you want to set it for next week. Maybe you want it to make 1.5 FC a day. Maybe you want it to do so in a 10 hour window. Poolmath is the bees knees here.

Use your pool math. If you don't have it, get it here. Link-->PoolMath
Use "effects of adding" function.
128oz of 10% LC will add 6.2ppm of FC in a 16000 gallon pool.
Your signature also says 16,000 gal?
You have to configure PM to your pool size of 16K

Mine sounds the same way. Pool company coming out next week to decide what the problem is. I'll let you know what they find out, but to me both yours and mine sound like the motor.

my Jandy 1.85hp VS pump/motor is brand new, only 6 mo. of use

timjet said:

On more quick question; If I manually turn on the pump outside of its schedule operation, say I turn it on at 8 am and its schedule to go on at 10 am will EasyTouch turn off the pump at its scheduled off time?

Click to expand...

Tim,

It may or may not run the schedule, it just depends on how the EasyTouch is feeling.. It basically says this in the manual, which says something like it will catch in within 24 hours..

In general, when you manually turn on a circuit, it will run until the egg-timer times out.. the default is 12 hours, unless you change it.. I use this feature to run my water fill line.. I manually turn it on, and it automatically shuts off in an hour..

Just for reference... I run my pool 24/7, mostly at 1200 rpm. This removes all the worry about schedules and what to do or not do when.. To do this costs me less than $20 bucks a month. I do it because I like making a little chlorine all the time, and skimming all the time. I don't like to see my pool looking 'dead', I like it better when there is a little motion to the water. Overall it is the best operating schedule for me and many others here at TFP. At low speed, my pump is so quiet, that you almost have to touch it to make sure it is still running.. And finally, I personally believe that it is better for the pump to run 24/7, than it is to shut of on and off each day..

Thanks,

Jim R.

PoolStored said:

Do the test linked, start at #8.

Click to expand...

I really appreciate the advice and suggestions

PoolStored said:

AH, Thought you were out of startup. Then stick with 1.5-3 for your startup FC. Sorry.

Click to expand...

@PoolStored @ajw22

An odd phenomena has occured. I tested this morning and my Chlorine is reading 12 ppm after a pretty heavy rain last night. I brought chlorine from 1 to 3 ppm yesterday and I added the maintenance dose of the jack's magic blue yesterday could this have something to do with it?

Newdude said:

Awsome. Any equivalent maths works.

Click to expand...

Really appreciate the advice!

Ugh. Why is this so hard. I just checked my chlorine and it was 8.5. I was at 2 this morning and added 128oz of liquid and according to pool math that should have brought me to 5.5 assuming my pool is 16k gallons. It’s roughly 15x30 kidneyish shaped with a larger shallow end of 3’ and a smaller deep end of 7”. According to pool math my pool would only be 8000 gallons. So confused.

Bill1974 said:

Other than how much storage of propane you want the other thing that determines the minimum size of the tank is the maximum rate of propane usage. The tank needs to be large enough to absorb heat fast enough from the air or ground (if it's buried) to boil the liquid propane in the tank to a gas. In the warmer month this is rarely ever an issue unless a tank is grossly undersized. In the cold months, it's much more of an issue. The boiling point is low and the heat of vaporization is a decent. Once you get below freezing the air doesn't have many BTU's in it.

View attachment 642508


View attachment 642506

Click to expand...

This is what my engineer guy was saying iirc. I’m in phoenix so the lowest ambient temp I’d want to run the heater might be 40* at the lowest. Being buried I assume the earth would be warmer. I’ll revisit with my engineer guy and see what he suggests as a minimum.

Every morning when I wake up I see some stuff at the bottom of the pool.

A lot of it is from a tree that is near.

But I suspect also dead algae.

What do you guys think?

For typical seawater, magnesium hydroxide (Mg(OH)2) will begin to precipitate at a pH above approximately 9.2.

The pH in the cell can go higher.

Borates can help minimize pH rise in the cell.

Australia, so, he's sleeping.

Dragons Den said:

From the articles on pool chemistry training institute

Click to expand...

We had similar thoughts but they never planned out with some of our 400k+ members trying since 2007. There always seems to be a new crop giving it a whirl.

What we've found is they reduce the frequency of MA adds, but increase the amount at those times. One i was looking up for someone yesterday needed over 3X as much at their parameters. (22 oz to 77 oz ? I forget exactly, something like that) You'd be lucky if you added twice as much, half as often.

berger said:

How do you test for iron? I know our house has some pretty serious water softening equipment for the well water.

Click to expand...

Take the water to the pool store for a metals test.

I assumed your ECO ONE hose filter filtered out iron.

No for real. If the bending over for a long slow pour is the problem i would build something to pour waist high. I'd probably use 3/4 PVC with some reducers (expanders?) on one end for a redneck funnel.

Post a full set of readings?

Why is the pH so high?

Happy to help. Ask questions. I started with my own franken controller too that I programmed with NodeRed. It just ended up being easier to use NodeJspool.

You have already solved the hardest part which is a box and transformer.

JoyfulNoise said:

I think you mean 3500ppm (part per million) not 3500ppt (part per thousand). Ocean water is 35ppt. Salt would never dissolve in water to a concentration of 3500ppt as that would be roughly 10X the solubility limit at room temperature.

Click to expand...

ppt = Parts per trillion? Inflations infecting everything.

1,000 parts per thousand is pure salt with no water.

EnoughToBeDangerous said:

It's not the cheapest thing,

Click to expand...

Neither is a swamp if you believe your FC is great and its not.

I get the pinching pennies. I do. But this one isnt worth it IMO.

Either way, I keep my jar in a small (4 oz?) Tupperware container with 4 desiccant packs, along with the one inside it, and its going strong a year later. It didnt take long to find a couple in new purchases and I replace one when I find a new one. Shoes and vitamins often have them.