The quick coupler comes apart, so it is easy to install.

Just cut off the old union nut.

The only problem is if the tab hits the bottom of the lid when fully tightened.

You can install the nut with the lid off, but if the tab is pointing straight up, it looks like it might interfere with the lid.

Yes thank you. So what is the "degree of the edge" I am looking for to get the water shooting OUT over the coping?
Is there a guidance on the type of edge and how far out the coping stone should be?

zendril said:

I may have a slightly different lead here.

This connector to the gas valve has 3 leads.

The bottom one appears to be rusted/broken completely.

The pilot light comes on and the igniter stops clicking when this happens, but no gas through the main burner pipe after.

Before I try to replace the solenoid, does this seem like a reasonable this to be looking at? Any clue what that bottom red wire is controlling?

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DO NOT try to put that gas valve back in service. With corrosion like in the picture it needs to be replaced. There are no "user serviceable" parts in a gas valve and it is dangerous to try without special tools and training.

tcat said:

Mine doesn't do waterline since brush is in the middle, but seems to do walls fairly well randomly. I mainly bought it for the swivel cord since the 4WD doesn't have one. I'd just read so many Dolphins needing repair, I didn't want to mess with them. Hopefully these will last!

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Does the reva have a setting to do the "floor only". I would not always want the walls scrubbed on my vinyl liner. Maybe once in a while. How did it hold up?

jonpcar said:

Here is where I bought my official Stenner tubing from last time, now 100’ for $43.

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Note that Ebay page says nothing about "acid" or "chemical." That's not to say that tubing isn't rated for acid, but it doesn't claim that.

Versus this page that does say "chemical," and a FAQ mentions something about 'an "A" rating for Muriatic Acid, 20 Baume.'

Both pages claim the same part number, "AK4010B," but the latter page doesn't call out "Stenner."

It's probably the same stuff, but "acid rated" and "chemical tubing" are the terms you're looking for.
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Speaking of which, note the "20 Baume" designation. That's the 31% muriatic you get from the pool stores. Sometimes the big box stores max out at 14.5%. I buy the 31%, but I never use that full strength in my tank. And Pentair recommends a 1:1 dilution with water, which is what I do.

So I would recommend to never use muriatic at full strength, but dilute it at least 1:1. That should help the parts last longer.
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There's another reason to dilute, too. My tank hold about 3.5 gallons. So there's never more than 1.75 gallons of 31% in there (diluted to 3.5 gallons). Should my IntellipH ever go kaflooey, and empty the entire contents into my pool (right after I fill the acid tank, of course), the most my pool would ever have to endure is 1.75 gallons of acid. Which will trash the pH for a short time, but not cause any permanent damage, and not be dangerous to swimmers.
So if any of you are connecting 15 or 30 gallon Stenner tanks to your pool, or even the 7.5 gallon, consider the consequences should your little pump get stuck on. Even worse if you're not diluting the acid. Not only the consequences to your pool and its equipment, but more importantly to you and your family and guests. Do the math.

There's a story about such an incident. A public pool, and their chlorine tank system failed and dumped all the liquid chlorine into the pool. Kids jumped in and ended up getting a trip to the hospital. So it can happen.

I like my little 3.5 gallon tank. Even at that size I only have to fill it a few times a year, so that's a fair trade and a good balance between safety vs convenience. Think it through, just because you have a big tank, doesn't mean you have to fill it up all the way.

sls said:

Yes, I wished I had seen that one for that price before I bought the REVA!! I think I would have been happy with it and saved some money . I paid 797.00 for the REVA and it works really good so far. I was happy that it has an option to just clean the floor since I don't have a lot of issues with walls or waterline. I can have it do them to if I happen to need to.

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Does the reva have a setting to do the "floor only". I would not always want the walls scrubs on my vinyl liner. Maybe once in a while. How did it hold up?

That pump is old. The new intelliflo3 pumps have an optional relay board that can control the SWG. Cannot get that for this pump.

44/60 doesn't matter. They use the same energy. Can be run 115v.

I'll call @ajw22 and @Jimrahbe again and try to have them weigh in on the easy touch IC integration. Like to get that before you commit to RJ.

How old are your reagents?
How do you store them?

On a side note - what is your present CH result.
Ch will climb to an unmanageable level in 2-3 years with our hard water. Many of us have plumbed our water softener to our autofill lines to mitigate this.

I can drain/refill my 12k pool in Chandler for less than $50 increase in water bill? Are you in PHX proper or one of the 'burbs?

What is the pH, TA and CH of your fill water?

I had the fun of doing this last year. Fixed the one union and then the other gave way.

garrybunk said:

Sorry, I didn't get any notifications after the first response. I have since found a smaller Hayward S166T tank which I got from a co-worker years ago when he got rid of his 21ft round pool (it was stuffed away and I forgot I had it). Is this smaller tank okay to use with my 1hp pump for awhile? I realize it'll have less filtering capacity and require more frequent backwashing, but my old one was probably going 3 to 4 weeks between backwashing or I would just backwash it because I needed to drain down the water level anyway. My plumbing is flexible, so no worries on that.

Secondly, is there some product to spray on plastic to protect it from the sun to last longer? My homemade chlorine tank (a 5 gallon Lowes bucket & lid) also cracked open. I suppose the best protection would come from being under a roof covering of some sort?

Thanks,
Garry

View attachment 642611

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Yes, that can be used without an issue.

wayner said:

Fair enough but this will save a few m^3 of gas when I do heat the pool to 85.

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Oh yes. Its a must when you are paying to heat. Unless you're rich. Lol.

But your question was should you do it for the sake of doing it early.

P00LNerd said:

Both drain holes in each socket were clogged with some sort of growth

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The Grey toothpaste ? That's what mine always had. Years 2+ I gorilla taped almumim flashing over the openings to keep most of the winter rain / melting snow out. I just cut a piece off an existing roll i had laying around and it made for a healthy overlap wide.

CYA is not naturally occurring.
So, either you added it, or your reagents are bad, you are not testing correctly, or you are using pool store testing.
How are you testing CYA?

Alexr54 said:

After much consideration i decided to go with the Hayward 2.7HP VSP.
Too many mixed reviews about the Calimar. And from what i've read it comes with a 1 year warranty that never gets honoured.

I've just had too many times where i tried to save some $ and because of that it just ended up costing me more in the end.
Better to just bite the bullet now then regret i didn't later.
Also the price of the Calimar almost doubled from 3 years ago, for the exact same pump. (not from tariffs they doubled the price over a year ago)
I figure it should have went down not up. Like all technology does when it ages. Unless it's some new improved model, which its not.
To me looks like they are taking advantage of these regulations around VSPs (gouging?). And thats a huge turn off for me.

While the Hayward has always been crazy expensive. No gouging. Just always overpriced. But thats Hayward...
At least they honour their warranties. And convenient because i can just get it from a local pool store. And if it needs service, it's on file there.

Thanks all!!!

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Have you ordered/purchased your new pump?

PoolStored said:

Give us the part number on the Intelliflo3, and the manufacture date. Take a pic of the sticker on the volute.

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Here's the pump info (see pic).

Sounds like the RJ is the way to go. I only have 110v, will that be an issue? Folks at Discount Salt Pools said the RJ45 would be fine, but I understand the thought of going big (less pump time to generate the same FC and ability to get to near shock levels if need be). Would the energy savings of the 60 offset the additional cost over time or is that a negligible energy savings?

Can you post a wider picture? And some profile pictures (i.e. horizontal) so we can see it dimensionally. Need more context.

Newdude said:

They work awesome to their abilities but its a moot point when the pool is 62 instead of the 57 it would have been on its own.

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Fair enough but this will save a few m^3 of gas when I do heat the pool to 85.

I've never used, but am considering due to a similar issue:

2” pvc pipe fitting reamer

Looks like 2" is not available in the links in the thread - but search Amazon for "2" pipe reamer" and there are a bunch of alternatives.

wayner said:

Does the cover help the pool to heat up, is it an insulator or both?

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Its an evaporation stopper which accounts for 70% of heat loss when the temperature dips. (Usually at night but not always).

They work awesome to their abilities but its a moot point when the pool is 62 instead of the 57 it would have been on its own.

As said above, Your skimming stops, but i swept my cover with the pool brush to a reachable spot every few days and got most of the crud off.

If you keep it closed too long, it'll 'smell like a pool' when you open it. If its during the day, the CCs will burn off in minutes, like 2, and the smell will be gone. Mine usually made it more than a week, but not two before it stunk. No harm is done if it sits a couple days too long.

Oh, and our water is 64F right below the square cover with the pumps not running yet. Probably colder down deep.

Thanks. I tend to keep my cover on during the week in the summer, other than in the hottest weeks of July. I would take it off for the weekend.

Agreed on the wind fluff, but you have to deal with that anyway - either gradually or all at once when you take the cover off.

I've not seen one in the wild. Following with interest.

Newdude said:

Welcome back.

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Thanks! Long winter, lots of wood burned. Now time for a change of gear.

Newdude said:

I got a sign it was time to open weeks ago.

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Nice! The ski resort behind my house was still open a month ago… lol.

Hey, quick question: The cast aluminum sockets into which my railing is set seem to be reacting with the salt water in the pool. Both drain holes in each socket were clogged with some sort of growth, but were easily drilled clean. I am inclined to smear something onto the railing end before inserting, but grease would only make it more prone to slipping and turning. What do you guys do?