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air leak repair

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duraleigh said:
Do you see air bubbles flowing continuously through the pump basket when the pump is running?

Don't buy ANYTHING yet!























































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Hard to tell if what I am looking at is air bubbles or just water being brought into the pump too fast? But yes it does look like large air bubbles in the pump basket, but its always looked that way, even when I've had no issues. So I may not know what I'm seeing but at least I know what it looks like when it is working.

Regarding not buying anything..... I did find this thread about closing off the chlorinator line. Login to view embedded media Used the link in there to buy some 1/4" NPT nylon caps. Figure for 10 bux, its worth a try. Interestingly, the OP there mentioned having DE leak with this same setup. I am not sure if he is right, because that would mean I have always had DE leaks and I don't think that is true. I definitely clean out a lot of DE from the filter cells at the end of the season.
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Pentair IC15/Salt Start Up Questions

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Yea my T100 test kit has been showing like 0-1 PPM chlorine levels every morning. I have been adding about 4-6 OZ of liquid chlorine daily/every morning when I do my reads before work. Seems like maybe the sun beaming on the pool daily is depleting it?

Regardless, I’m approaching day 29 since my plaster was installed on 4/8 so I plan to add salt probably Friday after work or Saturday AM.

Is there any chlorine level I should get the pool to before adding salt?

Is it as simple as dumping in 2 bags, turning on the salt cell, syncing it to my pump timer and we’re good to go?

Apologize if these questions are moronic, I know nothing about swimming pool water chemistry other than what I’ve fortunately learned on here
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Tested my two fill water options with Taylor K-2006-SALT - thoughts?

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta
This is the battle I mentioned earlier. With evaporation you'll be adding more high TA fillwater. Don't beat yourself up trying to drop the TA. If your TA is high after filling the pool, use the more aggressive method of aeration, then run the spillover on your spa daily and add acid as necessary to lower pH. The acid will pull down your TA at the same time.

Your TA will likely always be on the high side. That's not a death sentence. It means your pH will rise more quickly and your water will have more tendency to scale. You can offset that by keeping pH and CH levels on the low side. Take a look at the article below. You'll want to try to maintain CSI at a slightly negative level. Use your softener to maintain CH at 250 ppm.

www.troublefreepool.com

Calcium Saturation Index (CSI)

How is CSI calculated? Very simple – use our PoolMath tool. To ensure long plaster life and save money, click here to learn more.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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Replace stone veneer on hot tub spilling into pool.

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ajw22 said:
Is this a spillover hot tub Inyo a pool?

Show us pictures of the pool and hot tub and where the stone will go.

In general I recommend porcelain tile on pool/spa spillovers and walls.
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Thank you for the reply. I did consider tile but don't think it's a good fit for my pool.
I'm going with the stone in part because my wife will kill me if I change my mind again. I've been dragging this out for some time before I remembered this site. I should have posted here six months ago.
The stone manufacturer confirmed it'll be ok in the pool setting if installed correctly. I like the natural stone look. It's what the pool was built with.
I'm in NJ also btw.
Thanks again
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Mixed Instructions - VS Pump & SWG

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Enzodast said:
in your experience the 1100rpm is enough to turn the SWG on? if salt gen is on 24/7 as is the pump...is it okay to produce the chlorine from the salt gen when it's running higher speeds?
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Yup. Works in my system. You want to have enough RPMs so that the flow going through the cell (which is transparent) is all water and no gas pockets are holding at the top. The electrolysis reaction itself doesn't care what the water velocity is.

Enzodast said:
what's the point of running the pump ever at a high speed
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Lots of reasons... I have a paramount IFCS (in floor cleaning sys, as Mr. Rancho pointed out) which supposedly "requires" for 18-25 psi of pressure at the distribution valve to function correctly. I need RPMs to make that much pressure. Other reasons: water effects, hot tub jets, vacuuming, chemical mixing, etc.

The calimar/circupool/b&d pump has a "quick cleaning" button on it where you can set a temporary cycle that reverts to the scheduled program afterwards. I programmed it to 3000 rpm for 30 minutes so that when I want to vacuum the floor manually or circulate the pool heavily after dumping in a bucket of acid (diluted), all I have to do is go punch that button and then go on about my business.

Enzodast said:
I also want to be electricity bill conscious here
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Low speed, low energy use. See Mr. Rancho's comment above. I use something stupid low like 230 watts at 1100 rpm. That's right at 1 amp.

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
Most experts will say that running a pump 24/7 creates no additional strain on the pump. Some will argue that it creates less wear and tear on the pump because there are less start and stop cycles.
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I follow this school of thought. object in motion remains in motion and all....
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Disabling water flow sensor-Hayward Omnilogic

J
I know this is an old thread, but rather than start a new one I thought some folks might find this conversation helpful. At any rate, I was having this same problem. My SW T-cell would shut off due to reading no-flow, even though water was very clearly flowing. After some quick internet searches for Hayward ‘no flow’ I discovered that you can easily check to see if it might be your control board or the flow sensor/switch that is bad. You check this by simply using a screwdriver where the water sensor plugs into the logic board (which uses an old telephone style connector). You remove the telephone style connector, hold the screwdriver to be touching (connecting) the two contacts inside the where the plug of the sensor would go. If the error message goes away after 30 seconds or so then it is very most likely your sensor that is the problem.

When I tried this, the error went away, so I ordered a new sensor, but in the meantime I’d like my pool to be chlorinating. Since all the flow-switch does is close the connection I cut off the old flow switch connector (the telephone-style connector). It consists of two wires, one for each contact. I then spliced the two wires together and used some electrical tape to hold it all together. After plugging the connector back in the no-flow warning went away and now my pool is being chlorinated. As soon as the new flow switch arrives I’ll swap them out.

I’m sure this is not advised by the manufacturer so do this procedure at your own risk but it’s a quick short-term solution.
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Leaking at multiport valve

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My hubby replaced the sand in our pool. He can't get water to stop leaking around the clamp area of the MPV. It is a pentair valve 261886. I called the co. For help but they couldn't find the valve on their website even though I was able to bring it up. Anyway, hubby doesn't remember where the Oring was located on the valve as it connects to the filter. Can anyone help before he blows up my pool?
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Brown Spots on Pebble from Leaves

duraleigh
Pictures help.

The stains didn't get there overnight. Expecting them to be gone overnight is not realistic.

So, if the stains lightened with the tablets, that indicates they are iron. An ascorbic Acid treatment would be my next step

What do you suggest? I found a chemical called A+ stain remover as well as a product from Chlorox to remove metals.
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I have no idea what "A+ stain remover" is nor do I have any idea what the Chlorox stain remover is.

Stay away from "Magic bullets". Do the ascorbic acid treatment and report your results
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