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New to doing it right lol.

HermanTX
TFP has a way to fix this - please read SLAM Process
These are the steps to do now
Purchase a proper test kit to test the pool water yourself - do not trust pool store testing
Test Kits Compared
Purchase minimum 6 gals of liquid chlorine(LC)- can purchase at Home Depot, Walmart or similar type of store.

How many gallons is your pool? We need to know that to guide you as to how much LC to add to your pool now.

We do not recommend use of algaecides or other potions that pool stores sell.

Our members are very successful in maintiaaining a clear and well sanitize pool.
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Noob to the forum. Looking for CYA advice

Kaptain
Morning after update.
FC 4, TC 5
Strange thing i noticed:
Last night I swapped cartridge filters for the filters I just washed in power soak, my psi was 30. I've never seen it this high. Strange thing is they don't look dirty. Owell swapped and back down to 13.
This morning i am already up to 16.

Could this be the whiteish grayish stuff i can barely see on the walls but can feel?
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Algaecide help please!!

K
Texas Splash said:
Welcome to TFP! :wave: Unfortunately, everything you've done thus far is probably hurting you. :( Tabs, algaecides, and shock products will not kill and remove algae. That can only be done with the proper amount of liquid chlorine and it must be balanced to the stabilizer level (CYA) accordingly. We follow the SLAM Process to kill/remove algae.

But now you may have other issues with the products you've added. The remedy is proper at-home water testing. Do you have a TF-100/Pro-Series test kit? A Taylor K-2006C kit perhaps? If not, you really must get one of those first. Everything you do, and the advice received here at TFP, is based on accurate numbers from one of those kits.

Keep in mind that if your water is complicated by algaecides that have copper or a high CYA level, a water exchange to some degree may be your best and first option. But with a full set of accurate water test results we can help.
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Thank you so much for your quick response. I unfortunately do not have either test kit but I did order the tf-100, it should be here Saturday. Until then what should I do? I run the filter 24/7. Should I start to vacuum to waste and add water or wait to know levels ? Ugh so frustrated with myself for just dumping all that Crud in.
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Algaecide help please!!

K
PoolStored said:
Get one of the kits we recommend. Link-.>Test Kits Compared
Go to wal mart and get 10 gallons of liquid chlorine. "Pool Essentials Liquid Chlorine."
While you are waiting for the kit:
  • Add 1/2 a gallon per DAY of liquid chlorine until the test kit arrives. Nothing Else.
  • Download pool math. It is a tool that will help you with chemical additions. Link-->PoolMath
  • Configure pool math for your pool, 14,000 gallons. Use your TFP login/password. In the config, enable sharing with TFP...that way we can see your results.
  • Post pictures of the pool and equipment so we can see the condition of the water and your equipment.
When the kit arrives, Post a full set of results. FC, CC, pH, TA, CH, CYA.

This is what TFP pools look like. Link-->How Clear is TFP Clear?

You Got This Good Luck Today GIF by MOODMAN
Click to expand...
Ok I’ll head out shortly and get that going. Appreciate all the info and help.
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Cracked 3 Way Diverter Valve

K
Hey TFP!

I recently noticed a crack in my diverter valve and was curious to hear what my options are. Long story short, I have this big ol tree that I am getting removed soon because it is lifting my equipment pad and eventually will do the same to my pool house. I'm wondering if it's worth the investment of having a local company come out, pour a new pad, replumb the equipment and get it all nice and settled VS. just trying to fix this singular problem myself. Would really like opinions on that as well.

Anyway, here are the pictures. I think I'm going to have to cut it at the elbows from the heater, add a diverter, add a check valve. I wish there was an easy way to save the check valve but I don't have a blow torch or anything like that to get the PVC out. Is my general idea correct or am I missing something big? Thanks in advance!

PS: Ignore my terrible flextape job, I just wanted to see if it could help even a little bit. Shockingly it seems like it did.
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Algaecide help please!!

PoolStored
Get one of the kits we recommend. Link-.>Test Kits Compared
Go to wal mart and get 10 gallons of liquid chlorine. "Pool Essentials Liquid Chlorine."
While you are waiting for the kit:
  • Add 1/2 a gallon per DAY of liquid chlorine until the test kit arrives. Nothing Else.
  • Download pool math. It is a tool that will help you with chemical additions. Link-->PoolMath
  • Configure pool math for your pool, 14,000 gallons. Use your TFP login/password. In the config, enable sharing with TFP...that way we can see your results.
  • Post pictures of the pool and equipment so we can see the condition of the water and your equipment.
When the kit arrives, Post a full set of results. FC, CC, pH, TA, CH, CYA.

This is what TFP pools look like. Link-->How Clear is TFP Clear?

You Got This Good Luck Today GIF by MOODMAN
Click to expand...

Mixed Instructions - VS Pump & SWG

E
Enzodast said:
wow! so basically make the pump have full power always which is what i want since it has an onboard pc...and then put the SWG on the timer. if i want the swg running 24/7 i just remove tabs...if i want it to be only 12 hours a day that's simple enough too....

WOW did i recap that right!?
Click to expand...
Electrician is saying he can't do this... It's the 1109a timer. Says the salt unit won't be GFI protected if he does it like you say.

It's capable of it but then it's not GFI.
Click to expand...

Just signed up.

T
Welcome aboard! Your concern about phosphates means you've been to a pool store (we basically don't worry about phosphates.) We recommend you stay out of the pool stores and test and maintain your pool yourself. It's really very easy when you follow the simple TFP guidelines. Your primary chemicals will be liquid chlorine instead of pucks and muriatic acid in small quantities. Please read the following links.
Pool Care Basics
Test Kits Compared
FC/CYA Levels
PoolMath
Click to expand...

New to doing it right lol.

K
Have had an above ground 24 ft round pool since 2017. But always only put the chlorine tabs in the floater. Never had an issue. Last year liner needed replaced and we replaced the sand in the filter. Opened it this year to it being green. Warmer winter and not closing it clear. Shocked it but read somewhere to add algaecide. So I dumped two gallons of Clorox treat algae in it. Two weeks later it’s still green and have no idea how to fix this or read my levels. Am hoping to get the knowledge to fix this and be better about keeping up with it.
Click to expand...

IC-40 Dead???

PoolStored
Gnarbrah said:
Now what? Turn SWG back on and keep an eye on FC? At what level do I check CYA again?
Click to expand...

Newdude said:
Get a good test in blazing sun mid day. (At the first chance). I want to double check @PoolStored agrees before we act, but I'd raise my CYA to SWG levels.
Click to expand...
I'd get CYA to 60, until you can demonstrate that you can maintain FC. That way if you do have to SLAM again, it won't be as bad as doing it at 70 or 80.
Couple of months of consistently maintaining your FC at the top of the range, then to to 70.
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Definitely NOT the capacitor

O
It’s funny how people draw on their own experiences in decision making. I had to go back and re-read the OP to pick up on the winterized status. I paid absolutely zero attention to that fact because given where I live, I have never had to winterize a thing in my life.

I was much more concerned with something physically blocking the impellers rotation. My personal story includes a pump with a couple of palm tree seeds stuck in it. I don’t suppose OP has many palms in Dayton….
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Algaecide help please!!

Texas Splash
Welcome to TFP! :wave: Unfortunately, everything you've done thus far is probably hurting you. :( Tabs, algaecides, and shock products will not kill and remove algae. That can only be done with the proper amount of liquid chlorine and it must be balanced to the stabilizer level (CYA) accordingly. We follow the SLAM Process to kill/remove algae.

But now you may have other issues with the products you've added. The remedy is proper at-home water testing. Do you have a TF-100/Pro-Series test kit? A Taylor K-2006C kit perhaps? If not, you really must get one of those first. Everything you do, and the advice received here at TFP, is based on accurate numbers from one of those kits.

Keep in mind that if your water is complicated by algaecides that have copper or a high CYA level, a water exchange to some degree may be your best and first option. But with a full set of accurate water test results we can help.
Click to expand...
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