crackers8199 said:

thanks for catching that. i uploaded them to imgur then forgot to attach the link...should be fixed now.

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Please post them to the forum. You will better views and responses.

Its amazing what happens if you actually read and follow *all* the SLAM steps

Pool is looking fantastic, so thanks to all! Water quality is definitely clear and the pool in general looks fantastic now. I've ticked all 3 boxes so am considering the SLAM complete:

CC is 0.5 or lower - 0
your overnight chlorine loss test shows 1.0 ppm of loss or less - 0.
pool water is crystal clear with no visible sign of algae (dead or alive) on floor and walls - yes

What are next steps now?

• SWG has been off during the SLAM - At what FC ppm do I turn it back on? Currently at 14ppm FC. Down from 20ppm 24 hours before duringthe SLAM.
• pH is at 8 - Up from 7.4 48 hours ago but maybe becuase spillover has been running 24/7 during the SLAM? I belive this aerates the water causing pH to rise?
• TA is 80 - Should probably bring this down to 70?
• CYA us 40 - kept it lower for the SLAM. Target is 70 according to PoolMath.
• CH - MAy get it to 400 as was suggested before we get some rain soon.

Which, if any order should I get this back to where they should be or does it matter? Thinking CYA first once I get to "normal" FC levels, then turn SWG back on, then TA and pH? But as has been show I'm still a novice here so would appreciate any guidance. New SWG so will need to monitor FC for the next while as I figure out what output to set it to.

Maldravus said:

Just reporting back in here. 3 pucks dissolved

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Does it register on the CYA test ? In the time it took, you may have added 9 and lost 5 to rain and/or degradation.

By trying to save money on using existing pucks, youre spending it on excess bleach.

Again, I get it, but you're robbing Peter to pay Paul here IMO.

Enzodast said:

if i'm following the guide correctly as long as my CC is 0 tomorrow morning and i don't lose more than 1.0 ppm on the overnight FC test...so let's say tonights FC is 28, tomorrow morning it's not lower than 27 then i've completed the slam (assuming pool is also clear).

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Clear is the key. No cloudiness or visible signs of algae at all. No reason to do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test until the water is clear the night before. Test and maintain FC frequently.

Enzodast said:

After that i'll need help on what's next....how long do you let the FC naturally come down before trying to balance everything else? I also need to decide when do i add salt to the pool for the first time. according to circupool's manual and a starting salinity of 900 i need about 700 pounds of salt. What brand does everyone recommend? i'm leaning towards home depots morton pool salt for $7.63 a bag plus a $35 delivery fee (much easier than picking up 20 bags on my own).

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FC burns off relatively quickly when raised far above normal ranges. It may take a couple days, but continue to monitor FC and get salt level up. When FC drops to target level, set up SWG to generate enough FC to make up for daily loss. Start at about 3 ppm, test each day or two while finetuning SWG output. Use "Effects of Adding" in pool math to set up SWG runtime.

Morton is good. I like Diamond Crystal Splash Ready Pool Salt or their version of softener salt, Solar Natural Salt Crystals. Get what's cheaper. Sneak up on salt level. Add about 2/3rds first and sneak up on 3200 from there. Salt dissolves quicky, but wait overnight to test.

KBreuer15 said:

Can you help me understand what you mean by 5ppm?

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Free chlorine (FC) is measured in parts per million. Add 5 ppm of FC per poolmath each day to help keep the pool from getting worse.

KBreuer15 said:

Also, should I get this guy going today?

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Its not gonna hurt, and very well may help

Thanks everyone - really appreciate the advice.

Hey PMB and Welcome !!!

Got pics ?

Pretty sure for above ground pools all the different online retailers are mostly selling the same liners - the thicker the better as phonedave mentioned.
Latham & gli do make above ground liners and you must go through a dealer for pricing & specs.
For diy - especially if a deck is involved I usually recommend a beaded liner that sits in a bead receiver for ease of installation as well as not having to remove the top rails going forward. If you suspect this will be the last liner for this pool (average above ground pools life expectancy is about 10- 15 years) then a j hook liner will do the trick for ease of install.
Most are sold as unibead and can be installed as j hook or into a bead receiver.
Generally unibead & j hook liners are available in more thicker options & more patterns than over lap although it’s totally possible to get a thicker overlap liner there just may not be as much selection.
If you’re comfortable with the overlap install process and not picky about liner pattern you can certainly find a decently thick one and save a little money.
Here’s a helpful graphic to reference as you shop - middle of the road thickness (25-30 gauge) is generally pretty sufficient and plenty thick for most people.

Penny,

The Dolphin's runs a self test when first powered on.. it moves a little forward, and then backwards, and then tests the suction motor.. If any of those tests fail, it just stops..

Most likely the brushes in the motors have worn out or there is water in the motor box.

It could also be the drive train, which has no bearings, so the plastic pieces wear and make it hard to move the tracks.

Personally, unless it is very obvious where the problem is located, it is not worth my time to try and repair them...

I have moved on from the Dolphins, because of this.. See this review...


Thanks,

Jim R.

+3. I maintain above target range so that when I lose some, I land in target range and not below it. I often can't see my water clarity to know what it looks like and I've never added DE.

All i know about my clarity is that it hurts to look at it.

Mdragger88 said:

No, Unfortunately that kit only tests Total Chlorine and only up to maybe 3ppm?
You need to be able to test Free Chlorine and Combined Chlorine separately at levels much higher than that for the slam process.
TC= FC+CC
Knowing TC really isn’t that helpful other than knowing that you have some amount of chlorine in the water.

Don’t worry- adding the 5ppm worth of liquid chlorine each day will keep things ok until your kit comes.
Tf test kits ships out every business day and people usually get their kits pretty quickly.
You can also be sure to vac out any debris and clean/backwash your filter when psi rises 25% over clean pressure (add your filter type & size to your signature)
Arm yourself with quite a bit of fresh liquid chlorine so when it comes you’re ready to do battle! 10 gallons is a good start.

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Also, should I get this guy going today?

I believe you are being mis-informed.

ocalaron said:

Spa Blower 1hp shuts off after 5 mins when running in the sun. Runs 30 mins early morning without the sun on it, Unit is brand new and replaced same size blower. Do I need an enclosure around the unit?

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Needs to run cooler.

ocalaron said:

Spa Blower 1hp shuts off after 5 mins when running in the sun. Runs 30 mins early morning without the sun on it, Unit is brand new and replaced same size blower. Do I need an enclosure around the unit?

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ocalaron said:

Spa Blower 1hp shuts off after 5 mins when running in the sun. Runs 30 mins early morning without the sun on it, Unit is brand new and replaced same size blower. Do I need an enclosure around the unit?

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Mdragger88 said:

No, Unfortunately that kit only tests Total Chlorine and only up to maybe 3ppm?
You need to be able to test Free Chlorine and Combined Chlorine separately at levels much higher than that for the slam process.
TC= FC+CC
Knowing TC really isn’t that helpful other than knowing that you have some amount of chlorine in the water.

Don’t worry- adding the 5ppm worth of liquid chlorine each day will keep things ok until your kit comes.
Tf test kits ships out every business day and people usually get their kits pretty quickly.
You can also be sure to vac out any debris and clean/backwash your filter when psi rises 25% over clean pressure (add your filter type & size to your signature)
Arm yourself with quite a bit of fresh liquid chlorine so when it comes you’re ready to do battle! 10 gallons is a good start.

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Can you help me understand what you mean by 5ppm?

Maldravus said:

Just reporting back in here. 3 pucks dissolved. I still seem to be having to dose with LC according to Poolmath to 9ppm every day but clocking in ~5ppm during my tests. (Yesterday I dosed much later in the day than I normally do hence the 6.5 this morning). Add more pucks? Or is this just the way it is if I want to follow TFP?

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Losing 3-5ppm of FC per day is norm especially as it gets warmer. Watch next week because weather states it will be HOT. So keep dosing to the 9ppm level to keep your FC in range.

If you continue to use pucks then test your CYA after 3-4 weeks of use to confirm your CYA level.

As some has said - your pool is like a puppy - it needs to be fed daily.

pmb,

I can't understand why low voltage lights can't be used on the wall itself.. After all, it is pretty common for 120 volt lights to be used right in the pool??

Seems like if you have a pool rated transformer, located the proper distance from the water, then installing low voltage lights on the wall would not be an issue at all...

Tell us who is telling you that low voltage lights are not allowed???

Thanks,

Jim R.

Metal out by pool mate

just hit 27.5 on FC so i'm at SLAM level now. if i'm following the guide correctly i need to keep testing today and as it drops add enough chlorine to get it back to 28 or so. then tonight so a sundown test and then a sunrise test in am.
CC is now at 0. Pool looks much cleaner...filter is working overtime to get things done and ive had to backwash several times already.

if i'm following the guide correctly as long as my CC is 0 tomorrow morning and i don't lose more than 1.0 ppm on the overnight FC test...so let's say tonights FC is 28, tomorrow morning it's not lower than 27 then i've completed the slam (assuming pool is also clear).

After that i'll need help on what's next....how long do you let the FC naturally come down before trying to balance everything else? I also need to decide when do i add salt to the pool for the first time. according to circupool's manual and a starting salinity of 900 i need about 700 pounds of salt. What brand does everyone recommend? i'm leaning towards home depots morton pool salt for $7.63 a bag plus a $35 delivery fee (much easier than picking up 20 bags on my own).

thank you all!

PoolBrews said:

I have been using the webapp heavily and, for the most part, it's worked well. The one issue that is recurring (and may be simply how it is designed to work), is that when I enter new test results, the main display continues to show the results from my last test. If I refresh the page, then the new test results are displayed.

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Let me take a peak at this as it seems odd?

If the areas are small enough you can spot treat the stains and then add in a full dose of sequestering agent. The maintenance dose may not be enough especially if the chlorine gets too high.

There are a few products that call themselves “Metal Out”. Can you please share a picture of them one you are using?

sande005 said:

Hard to believe that if you have signed contracts for getting it all back into service, and have proof of the ongoing work to mitigate the issues, that they won't work with you to resolve.

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I'd find it hard to believe that it was possible to get anyone on the phone with the power to allow an exception to their policy. I've had a couple no-brainer situations that went nowhere with large companies.

It also may be out of their hands if they are required to have said rules. Zombie homes after the last housing market collapse forced banks to maintain the properties they took ownership of. Stagnant or empty pools would go hand in hand with overgrown lawns.

wayner said:

Do you just mean for people in Texas?

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Wayner,

Ok... maybe 98%...

But, yes, I was thinking about locally, as the OP lives in the same DFW area that I do.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Just keep track of the amount of cya you have used and consider it to be there. Chlorinate accordingly.
No sense in wasting regeant before it will show.
Ps - in PoolMath you can use the effects of adding calculator in the hamburger menu to determine this ppm.
Or if you get a subscription you can simply keep logs of all your additions and use the summary function.
Also, If you keep logs of results and additions you can link them here by selecting sharing in the settings. This can be helpful when needing advice.
Click my avatar to see mine.