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New pool finished, but having issues with spa spillover.

ajw22
Welcome to TFP.

I have a spa spillover setup like yours. But mine is not cut so close to the steps.

I would have shortened the spillover on the sides to move the water away from the pool edges rather than divide the spillover.

What automation do you have?

My spillover only runs for 20 minutes twice a day at 9AM and 2Pm to refresh the water in the spa. That limits erosion on the spillover area.

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ajw22
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Chlorine won't register on TF-100 test kit

B
Mjreedy said:
okay, sorry but what is CYA?
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That’s the conditioner. Here’s a link to details of how much chlorine is needed depending on how much CYA/stabilizer is in the water.
www.troublefreepool.com

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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J
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Replacing a sand filter opinions?

S
I redid all my plumbing last year, and had to cut out and replace a cracked valve this spring. Making sure to measure 4 times, and cut once, no problems.

I had a separate issue with a valve that had been installed by a pool company. They sent guys out to deal with it. I was appalled at how sloppy/poor their cuts were, how they used parts that I though would be to short too slip into another, how inattentive to precleaning, etc. Yet at the end, after waiting the 2 hr drying time, everything worked with no leaks. And is working a few weeks later. They were extreme in their inattention and and lack of carefulness. Not saying you shouldn't do as good a job as you can, but there can be a pretty wide margin to end with a working assembly, so no fear if you are concerned!
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Jandy JXI 260P High Flue Temp

setsailsoon
smartatx said:
My spa was working fine one evening, the next is would not heat. I checked and the display showed Fault High Flue Temp and does not turn on at all. I've removed the cover to inspect and do not see any indications of leaking around or on the heat exchanger combustion chamber. I also removed the ignitor and inserted a borescope to inspect. Did notice some light scaling but no significant build up (compared to what I've seen in other post online) and no water appeared to be in the tub. (not the best still picture)
View attachment 646241
I'm not seeing any water leaking at manifold either. I plan on replacing the Flue Sensor but do plan on performing a couple of items prior to doing so.
  1. Remove Exhaust Elbow Assembly in an attempt to gain better visibility and possibly vacuum out what I can from the combustion chamber/tub.
  2. Inspect/clean Exhaust Elbow Assembly.
I do have a couple of questions.
  1. If I wanted to fully inspect and clean the combustion chamber, is it as simple as
    1. Turning off gas and power
    2. Disconnecting gas line (coupler)
    3. Remove lid by unscrewing band clamp (or if needed removing Exhaust Elbow Assembly, Ignitor and Blower Assembly/burner) and then have access to chamber/tub?
If all else fails and this does not fix the issue, my other option (outside of full heater replacement) would be to replace the Jandy Heat Exchanger and Header Assembly R0805803.

TIA for any thoughts/suggestions/feedback?
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Welcome to TFP! Removal to inspect the combustion chamber is very involved. I think there are a lot of good videos of this online. Luckily I don't think you need to do this. Nothing you have indicates replacement of your heat exchanger is needed. I think the flu temp sensor is a fusible link so once it fails you have to replace it. Make sure there's nothing in the flu obstructing exhaust gas flow. It has to get very hot to really burn the link up. How old is this unit?

Please send a photo of the error message you get and higher level photo. No idea what your photo above is. I think it's too close. Took another look and OK I'm guessing this is inside of chamber with your boroscope. If you don't see water in the chamber there's probably no reason to open it up. Please do send a photo of the error message.

I hope this helps.

Chris
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My 4" off level AGP vs. Category 3 Hurricane Milton

W
This is late now, but I thought it might be amusing. I first set up my 18' above ground last spring. I was too excited to have it set up and didn't do a great job of leveling. It settled on one side and ended up about 4" lower than the rest of the pool. It would overflow so badly it created a washout pond that would fill up with mud and mosquitoes.

Hurricane Milton made landfall near me in October. We got 90 MPH wind gusts and a foot of rain in a day. I drained the pool maybe 6" in anticipation of all the rain but otherwise left it alone. I went out in the early morning to assess the damage as soon as it was safe. I didn't expect it to collapse or anything, but I was worried debris would puncture it, or there would be severe washout and it would tip.

Actually, other than having half a tree in the bottom, it was completely fine. I cleaned it out, stirred it twice a day with oars while I had no power for most of a week, and spent a LOT of time floating in it to cool off and decompress. I moved and leveled it perfectly this year with the help of a water level made from jack stands.

This picture really shows how badly off level it was. 4" may have been conservative...
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SWG won’t Turn On- Hayward Aqua Plus

JBR4BAMA
Hi, we are having an issue with our Hayward aqua plus not registering the salt level correctly. It is registering at 1000 ppm. We have a separate salt tester that has the salt at 3450 PPM. The salt cell is right at 3 years old. This is now causing our pool to turn green because it is not allowing the salt cell to turn on. It worked two weeks ago and now it is no longer working after some large amounts of rain over a week ago. I have purchased a replacement flow switch to try. However, I’m not sure if our automation system is going out. Is there a way to test this ? Or is it as simple as buying a new salt cell? The salt cell has been cleaned thoroughly this week and that did not change the reading on the system.

This will be our 9th summer to swim in the pool and nothing really has been replaced other than the original salt cell. Everything has worked perfectly fine up until until now. Of course, our pool builder is no longer in business so we can’t reach out there for assistance. Thanks in advance. IMG_7143.jpeg
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JBR4BAMA
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Sand Filter Leaking from Backwash Port Even after Key Replacement

M
Morning, I have a Hayward sand filer with a multivalve SP0714G11M. This is one with the spider gasket that is molded to the key. I noticed that in recirculate the filter was shooting water out of the backwash port, and that the pressure was reduced on the return side. I found that the most likely cause was the spider gasket though the filer is about 3 years old. Opened it up and looked okay but had some wear, so I ordered the entire top fixture from Inyo since I didn't want to deal with hammering out a handle and stuff. I installed it and it's still leaking from the backwash though be it less than before. I is keyed correctly on the notch and the filter itself is free of junk though I'll open and really scrub it later. By leaking I mean about 3 gallons a min flowing out the backwash. Can anyone confirm that the inside of the multivalve XL is supposed top have an angular stub that aligns with the central handle and that this isn't broken? The filter is level there is no notable debris in there and the gasket is new. Pressure is in the rated range at 18-22 PSI, any ideas other than the housing is afflicted by some kind of pool ghosts?

Thanks in advance :)IMG_4475 2.png
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She's Back! And ready for Season 2...

PoolStored
JessBlount617 said:
This year having zero chemicals in the pool out the gate, I think step one is to bring UP CYA to at least a 20, and balance with the appropriate amount of chlorine? Or do I do the opposite - get this pool to have at least SOME FC, and then figure out an appropriate level of CYA?
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Just Filled Your Pool with Water? Here's What To Do Next - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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