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Thoughts Granite coping stone cracked over skimmer first month

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I hope this shows the crack between the orange lines. There is a Vulkem expansion joint in the picture and a saw cut in the concrete patio just laid. As to the Stainless steel bridge under the granite stone how would someone keep water from getting between the stone and the stainless steel. Is there a special way to make the stainless steel bond to the granite stone? Thank you
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8,000 Gallons Best Way Pool

Newdude
adampatt said:
So you think it’s just meant to be emptied each year?
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It is in fact meant to be emptied and stored each winter, so if the situation arises you need to drain it fully, its safe to do. Other pools might pop out of the ground, or wrinkle their liner.
adampatt said:
The water is nice and blue and not nasty what so ever.
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You said it was cloudy. 👇
adampatt said:
but it won’t clear up for nothing. Stays cloudy.
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If the algae is dead, it will take a long time to filter it out the with intex equipment. Up to you, but i wouldn't fight it, I've seen too many go a month here, sometimes even using a second intex system to help. The system is great for what it is, but its terrible at this.

adampatt said:
I would hate to do that as I’d have to take the thing apart.
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You can drain it without taking it apart.
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VS / VFD Pump & Flickering LED lights

Jimrahbe
AC,

I removed the last sentence in your post, as that is not how our site works... Everything else you said is perfectly fine.

That said, until recently I had three pools that all had Pentair VS pumps.. The three different houses all had plenty of LED lights, cheap and other wise.. None of the houses had any flickering at all..

This complaint is not one that I have seen here before, so it must not be very common.. :scratch:

Not sure if you just got a bad pump, or your electrical gird is different in some way, or???

In any case, let's see if any of our members have seen this same issue.

Thanks,

Jim R.
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I'm going to lose my mind - plug stuck in skimmer pipe

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First time pool owner. My pump is quite a bit higher than the pool level so I was told to get this priming plug so that I can easily reprime the pump.

It works, but then the black rubber part separated from the metal part and got sucked into the skimmer pipe.

The pipe is 2 inch and the plug is 1.5 inch. It allows some flow but it's not completely blocked. The pool company tried vacuuming or blowing it but it won't work because it's not a complete seal. But the flow is impeded enough that my filter only gets 2 psi.

I'm at my witts end here. I just got this property and just want to swim, already spent over 7,000 dollars and it's still not swimmable. The pool company can't get the plug out. Do I need to dig the pool out and basically remake the pool?
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Pool owner 4 years, still can’t get it right.

HermanTX
Stop using the Clorox app.
Download and use the free PoolMath app.

Purchase a proper test kit and learn how to test your own pool water. Order one with salt testing as you have a saltwater pool.
Test Kits Compared

Do you fill your pool with municipal water? If so, fill it and add 1 gallon of liquid chlorine (LC) - purchase at Walmart or Home Depot.
Purchase at least 10 gallons of the LC.
Don’t turn on the saltwater chlorine generator (SWCG) until we have a full set of test results.

Once you get a test kit, post a set of test results. we understand it won’t be perfect if this is first time testing but practice will help.
We are here to help.
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Looks like I need a new SWG

Jimrahbe
C,

Your Power Center needs to be connected to your EasyTouch two ways..

1. The AC power to the Power Center MUST come from the load side of the Pump/Filter relay. This prevents the cell from blowing up if the flow switch fails.

2. The Surge card inside the Power Center has a 4 pin RS-485 com port.. This com port should be connected to the RS-485 com port in your EasyTouch (J20).. You will need your own 4-wire cable to do this... I'd use 18 AWG wire.. Connecting the RS-485 will allow the cell to report the salt level to the EasyTouch, and allow you to control the cell's output % remotely.

Thanks,

Jim R.
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8,000 Gallons Best Way Pool

adampatt
For right now I have the HTC 6 way test kit. It uses the drops and cylinders. I also have the test strips by HTC. I been looking to get a tf- 100 or a Taylor K 2006 but I needed something fast/today just to see what my levels were for my chlorine and CYA as that was what I was most concerned about.

So you think it’s just meant to be emptied each year? I would hate to do that as I’d have to take the thing apart.

I did drain almost half the water before leaving up all winter. The water is nice and blue and not nasty what so ever. All chemicals seemed good besides my CYA and chlorine to high. And my hardness a little low.

I do frequent backwashing on filter since I used phosphate remover and clarifier. Plus the new glass media I didn’t run it through with that stuff in there as I just added it to help
Filter stuff out better since the microns are lower than sand.

I’m currently filling the pool back up, and I was gonna test my CYA and chlorine again after I let it get full and run the filter a bit to get everything all diluted hopefully.
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VS / VFD Pump & Flickering LED lights

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Just installed a new Pentair Superflo VST and immediately noticed all LED lights in the main house flicker when the pump is on. I've read about this issue several places and understand it's due to harmonic distortion from cheap VFD circuit back-feeding into the supply. Some say it's to do with cheap quality LEDs but I wanted to check this claim for myself (since mine aren't cheap LEDs!) So I hooked up a scope to the main load center and when the pump is running at full rpm the below pic shows the added noise on the bottom half of the sinewave of the 60Hz / 230V supply. Scale on scope is 20V per division so roughly 40V peak-peak noise - which is quite frankly ridiculous, regardless of high much you spend on LEDs, they are going to flicker with 40V noise @ 300-400Hz!! I am wondering if anyone has come up with a solution to this? I am looking at line reactor filters (e.g. LR2-21P0-1PH-A) to connect just before the supply, or possibly just an isolation transformer (not sure how effective it will be). Anyone tried this or have any insights? Thanks.

(P.S. before anyone asks, yes the wiring is 100%, no neutral or earthing issues, correct gauge wiring, separate subpanel, etc. In fact to double test, I switched it over to the old 2hp "on/off" style pump and the lights don't even blip when the pump kicks in with over 35amps of in-rush current! So this is definitely a VFD issue. Edit by Jim R.
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Horse pool

HermanTX
Arowdy1 said:
Update on filter . Ugh . I bought one on the 5th . Was supposed to be delivered on 7th . Never showed up but shipping vo said delivered . What a nightmare . They would not refund or replace . So I called shipper and found out they returned to sender. No reason given. So got the ok on refund . 10 more days for money come back to me . So back to shopping . I have 400 pounds of the white sand stuff. Although that filter only requires 350 pounds . They sent me an extra one because one was lost in shipping then showed up yesterday lol . It is back to a polio pit . Lol I bought home depot about out of 2 inch fittings . So I have ability to make a maze if needed . 2 turtles living in the pool . I can't catch them. They refuse to leave .
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Are you trying a different vendor to purchase from? Hope the price stays the same.
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