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P825 motor issue - seeking guidance.

We've been using a wired Polaris pool robot, but it recently stopped working. It seems like a motor issue, as the motor starts spinning but stops after a few seconds. I found a replacement motor on eBay, but since it's used and I'm not entirely sure the motor is the only issue, I'm unsure if it's worth the time and money to repair it (eBay has no return policy if I buy motor from there). The unit is over six years old, so I'm also considering replacing it with a new robot. Do you have any recommendations for reliable pool vacuum robots for inground pools? Also, what are the pros and cons of corded vs. cordless models?

First time pool opening and a lot of conflicting information

I only tested FC, I entered the numbers into the app. I did realize I had 4 chlorine tablets in the skimmer basket but I removed them at 8:08pm last night and left them out. The 7lb of stabilizer was dispensed by 8pm last night.
Between 8:08pm and 8:13am, there was not a chlorine drop.
The pool water looks great!

I’ll take FC and CC now and will enter them in the app in the next 5 minutes
explain exactly what you did for testing when and how.
How does the pool look?
What was your CC?
I added it. It rained for 15 minutes a hour ago.
The swg is off and there is no chlorine tablets in the skimmer.

Switching to Calcium Hypochlorite tablets

Hello,
In previous years, I have used a chlorinator with typical trichloro tabs (HTH). Someone recommended switching to NST Prime because I’ve been having problems with CYA levels that are too high. I had to drain my pool and refill this year. Before checking up on it, I bought some of the Cal Hypo tabs and added to my chlorinator. It only ran for about 15 minutes before I thought twice thankfully and checked it out online where I found out this can cause an explosion! I quickly removed the pucks from the chlorinator, but will that 15 minutes I ran it cause a chemical problem?

pH rising super fast

TA 40
Calcium Hardness 400
CYA 50ppm
Increasing the TA to 60 almost doubles the carbonate alkalinity and puts the CSI at +0.3.

I would go to 50 TA and then balance the CSI to 0.0.

Cyanuric Acid correction factor based on pH.

40 - (50 x 0.36) = 22.

50 - (50 x 0.36) = 32.

60 - (50 x 0.36) = 42

pH........CF

7.0.......0.22

7.1.......0.24

7.2.......0.26

7.3.......0.28

7.4.......0.30

7.5.......0.32

7.6.......0.33

7.7.......0.34

7.8.......0.35

7.9.......0.36
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I need the measurements of where to place pavers for intex 32’ x 16’ x 52” above ground pool.

Hello,
while the first diagrams on post #2 is exactly the right type, it s for the wrong pool size so dimension and placement might be different.
Is there one for the requested pool size 32x16? (or even better a trusted source for multiple sizes)
how confident are we on these diagrams? (ie: are they from intex?)
Thanks in advance
Welcome to TFP.

Those diagrams are the best we have found from Intex.

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Do I even need a valve?

Not sure about that plan- some filter manufacturers do recommend a pea gravel base layer but not sure if what you have there qualifies.
If you have a shop vac and can extract the mystic after trying it then i say just give it a shot if you want. Test it by backwashing and see how much you get out. If it’s alot then don’t proceed to filter with it and instead replace it. And just use it to fill holes in your yard and get something else today.

Yeah I think the sandy 9s is a little bit of pea gravel mixed with sand, I was just thinking of using it since I have so much of it. But yeah it's got pine needles on top etc, so I might be putting organic material into a filter, which sounds like a bad idea.

I have the MWII ready for return, it's going to be a PITA, but the Aquaquartz from Leslie's is what the filter seller recommends and they had it locally for half the price.

How many bags of pea gravel do you think I need for a 24" filter? I planned on 6 bags of sand, so do you just replace 1 of them with pea gravel, then laterals, then sand?

Deep End Dimensions For Safety

SR Smith will give you the minimum depth but adding depth can make it a little safer up to a point. However, a deeper pool will have sharper slopes which can be an issue for some cleaners so that needs to be taken into account.

Our water depth is 9' but the board is pretty low and doesn't have much spring. We never had an issue with bottom scraping even with my daughter, who was on the HS diving team long ago, doing vertical dives although she would occasionally touch the bottom gently.

Also, you might want to check with your insurance company. Some policies have liability exclusion clauses for pools and/or diving boards. Also, some companies are now using Google earth to determine if a house has a pool or a pool with a diving board. I heard rumors of some who have lost coverage because of this. Luckily, I have not had that problem.
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First time pool opening and a lot of conflicting information

explain exactly what you did for testing when and how.
How does the pool look?
What was your CC?
I only tested FC, I entered the numbers into the app. I did realize I had 4 chlorine tablets in the skimmer basket but I removed them at 8:08pm last night and left them out. The 7lb of stabilizer was dispensed by 8pm last night.
Between 8:08pm and 8:13am, there was not a chlorine drop.
The pool water looks great!

I’ll take FC and CC now and will enter them in the app in the next 5 minutes
  • Like
Reactions: PoolStored

How to connect this under-pool flexible pipe to a pump?

Thanks, that will work. Any recommendations on piping it into my pool pump so I can use it to discharge? My setup is below.

You can connect it with a diverter valve to the suction side of your plumbing, but I doubt that pipe will give your pool pump enough water. You do not know how much water flow the pump will get.

You will be risking damaging a $2,000 pump.

It's better to get a separate trash pump that you can connect to the pipe if you want to pump out water.

Shutdown several months and restart in spring.

Hi, I have a 400 gallon hot tub in France - a Sundance, Lisbon. Everything has been purged, balanced, and is being sanitized with a SWG - disconnected the UV. No known problems. I am just looking ahead to the end of summer or possibly early winter and it will not be used for 6-9 months. Should I consider draining it or just turn off the heater and have someone I trust keep an eye on it? It does not freeze here. I tried to search for people doing similar things, but I couldn't find anything that looked definitive. It seemed pretty clear that if you can't get all the water out you are in the bug hosting mode....I'm sure others have found a "best way" to do this.

Raypak 206A Rapidly Heating Water

DOH! I am going to donate to the site, this saved me a service call.
TFP is a member supported 501(c)3 non-profit that is volunteer staffed and has no ads. Your support keeps the servers running so we can be here to help you. It would be helpful if you considered supporting TFP so we can be here to help in the future....

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