Asking for a friend....

Welcome to TFP.

Dan has not checked in here since September 2023.

If you describe your problem, maybe someone else can provide advice.

Rawhidesabi said:

So for now should i just keep vaccuming the pool and get the filters clean until my test kit arrives (ordered 2 hours ago) or is there something i should do to prepare other than keeping some chlorine levels rolling?

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Wait until you have your test kit and post a complete set of tests and then we can see what your situation is.

Rawhidesabi said:

Ordered basically all chemicals that i dont have at home just now too so I should be ready other than those 1 offs.

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Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:

What's happening inside of the skimmer basket when the pump is trying to prime?

How far away is your equipment pad from poolside?

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water remains still - there is little suction in the basket. Originally, if there were leaves in the skimmer area, it would get sucked down to the bottom of the basket. Since this issue has arisen, the leaves remain floating in the skimmer basket and are not pulled down.
Equipment is roughly 20 feet from the skimmer basket and ~8-10 feet from the pool

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Ok yes grabbed the pro kit with slam and starter guide. I do plan to switch all methods to this method I do not want to mix and match. I may just toss the existing chemicals to my brother then.

What i meant by the above also mentioned on this site when buying the kit that the tests arent hard to read. I was making sure as aquarium testing an cheap pool tests will have 50 shades of blue. You answered my question though stating that the test colors swap from one extreme to the next. those are alot easier to read then the cheap ones.

So for now should i just keep vaccuming the pool and get the filters clean until my test kit arrives (ordered 2 hours ago) or is there something i should do to prepare other than keeping some chlorine levels rolling?

Hopefully this will be the last method i need to use and stick with moving forward so i want to do it right.
Ordered basically all chemicals that i dont have at home just now too so I should be ready other than those 1 offs.

Ok, thank you! I'm actually asking this for a very good friend & will get back with answers & pics asap.

Welcome to TFP.

You need to decide if you want to use TFP pool care methods or methods from others like Zodiac.

You always have a choice. It is your pool, not your PB or Zodiacs.

I will simply tell you they do not work long term. If you want to give it a try we will be here when you look for a better way.

I made the switch from a Jandy 1400 SWG to the RJ 60 Plus this year. The Jandy salt cells were not lasting more than a year. Cutting out the old Jandy unit and installing the RJ unit took about 3 hours for me which included 1 trip to lowes for some elbows and a union to make the plumbing work.

ajw22 said:

You cannot follow the SLAM Process with test strips or pool store testing.

You must get a K-2006C or TFT Test Kits before you begin the process.

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Ok, I will do that. Thanks

Hopefully you aded salt and circulated for 24 hours first. See tftestkits.net and look into the TFPro with sale test. Do not bo by numbers on the unit!

Yes filled with well water, so maybe add more sequestrant?

sande005 said:

Start investigating new insurance companies. Hard to believe that if you have signed contracts for getting it all back into service, and have proof of the ongoing work to mitigate the issues, that they won't work with you to resolve.

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Unfortunately we live in Charleston SC and insurance is hard to find as many companies are pulling out due to hurricanes.

You cannot follow the SLAM Process with test strips or pool store testing.

You must get a K-2006C or TFT Test Kits before you begin the process.

Gene,

I think what you are doing makes perfect sense.. You making sure you run the test the same way every time.. And then looking at the result.. Even if you are slightly high or low, it does not matter, as normally you are just trying to see where you are now vs. where you were at the last test.

Thanks,

Jim R.

A garden hose is around 10 gpm. You can test to see how long it takes to fill a 5 gallon bucket (10 gpm would be 30 seconds). If it's longer your flow is even less. Your pump is 2400 GPH or about 40 gpm. Probably a little less since there is restriction from the filter and it's pumping up a few feet too. So it's about 4 times the amount of water as you want.

I am guessing 40 gpm is going to to much for your waterfall. The pools at the top are not going to change that. The cover as Newdude described will stop the water shooting up but it's not going to reduce the flowrate. I think a cover like this is an attractive partial fix. if you put something like this in, it would probably be good idea to make it removable for service if it ever leaks and to prevent something from falling down it when the pump is not on.

You will also need to diverter a portion of the water so it does not go to the water fall.

If you try to just restrict the flow in to out of the pump, check to make sure the pump is not overloaded, it's only rated for 3.6A. Use and amp clamp or a power meter to check the current draw of the pump.

You may also want to put a check valve in so the pump and filter don't drain every time the pump turns off.

I used the LaMotte version of the sliding dot for years. It still is subjective, but seemed slightly easier. In head-to-head with Taylor, it gave the same end result. It does require their tablets, that take forever to dissolve. Or need a pill crusher to break them up after dropping into the water sample.

One can get just the hardware on Amazon, if interested. I never tried it with the Taylor mix, so using same may not be accurate at all. The dot on mine finally wore off, so now I just use the tube that tftestkits supplies.

Cyanuric Acid Test Kit

Welcome to the forum. Addition of chlorine has a tendency to give green hues unless enough sequestrant has been added. You on well water? follow our SLAM procedure in Pool School and stay at it.

ajw22 said:

Welcome to TFP.

A SWG generates a small amount of chlorine over a long period of time. Algae will consume the chlorine as soon as it is generated.

You should not waste your cells life trying to fight algae.

Turn off your SWG or set it to 0% and follow the SLAM Process using liquid chlorine.

What SWG do you have?

What test kit do you use?

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

Algae Archives

www.troublefreepool.com

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Our SWG was bought off Amazon. It is a Westaho for up to 35K gal pools. I take water into Leslie's Pools but also check with test strips in between. That was another question on whether to turn off the generator while SLAMming. I will turn it off tomorrow and will start the SLAM tomorrow as I am at work today. I'm also going to take our stairs out and clean it off real well. I'll get rid of the algae first then will turn the chlorinator back on. Thanks for the info.

Welcome to TFP.

Take a pile from your robot cleaner and put some muriatic acid on it. If it bubbles then it is calcium and probably plaster dust. If it is DE or dirt it will not bubble.

Show us pictures of what your robot is capturing.

Let us know what the acid test finds.

The TF-PRO is your best value in comparison. Welcome to the forum

What's happening inside of the skimmer basket when the pump is trying to prime?

How far away is your equipment pad from poolside?

Welcome to TFP.

I think you are making this more complicated than it is.

Rawhidesabi said:

1.) So from the pictures the TF-Pro test kit looks similar to my aquarium test kits but it states it is not a "blueish, greenish, i think my eyes work color scale" so is their a digital readout or what provides me the number from each test that i am to aim for?

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You have a link where you read this blueish, greenish stuff?

All the tests in the TFT test kit have distinct color transitions for completion, such as changing from red to clear or from green to blue. The only test that has subjective color is the pH test.

Rawhidesabi said:

2.) I really dont want to waste the chemicals I have left. So i have 5 bags of shock, some alkalinity up, and some cya free shock tablets. I know the tablets can be used but will the other options just dissapear if i am switching to liquid chlorine? Should i just burn through those real fast during the opening of the pool (alk up per test results) and then make the switch? Also I know it varies per pool but I usually at the beginning of the season grab 25 packs of powder shock to get me through most if not all of the year.......how many gallons of liquid shock should i grab to get me through 4-5 months?

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You have to decide when you want to transition to TFP pool care methods.

Mixing methods does not work well and causes confusion.

We don't use "shock." Raising alkalinity is rarely necessary unless you overdose acid and crash your TA.

How much liquid chlorine you need depends on the size of your pool and your daily FC loss.

Rawhidesabi said:

3.) SLAM---Can i use this method to open my pool?

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Yes.

Rawhidesabi said:

Or do I need to do some other combo of things?

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Combo of what things?

Rawhidesabi said:

I am of course going to vaccum and clean and all that anyway but will SLAM and testing get it from swamp to clear?

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Yes.

Rawhidesabi said:

(Shouldnt be a swamp but I have the elephant cover still on. 2 weeks ago I shocked her heavily and covered it back up letting the pump run 3 hrs per day until now. I would like to start opening the pool this week so that it is clear and ready by memorial day. usually takes 3-4 days but if doing this method takes a week and i then am spending less and not having to drive to the 18 year old kid to test my large investment I am game.

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The length the SLAM Process takes depends on how bad your algae bloom is. Some SLAMs can take a few weeks with real bad algae.

Rawhidesabi said:

I just really want to know how much more testing am i signing myself up for and if this will in the long run possibly save some cash? I am planning on getting the TF-pro with Slam option. (Actually want to buy it here today but need to make sure I am on the right path. or should i get that Taylor K-2006C test kit?

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Get the TF-Pro with the Slam Option. It is a better value.

It will be the least expensive and best value pool purchase you make.

more detail needed Its Better to provide make model of equipment and provide photos of concerns and...filling out your signature please will help.

Go to your aviator(top right)and drop down to find signature and complete Create Your Signature.

Fwiw I use the 50 ppm solution and violate the rules somewhat because I'm very nearsighted. I fill to 50, then intentionally bring the test vial close to my eye. I can still see a shadow of the dot. With a little practice, the look of that shadow is much easier for me to discern than the "glance down at your waist" method. I test myself by adding a mix with the 50 ppm solution, not looking at the scale, until the dot looks right, then verify I'm actually close to 50. This way, it's easy to get within 10. Standard lighting is still very important, though.

JamesW said:

I guess that I am confused.

You are talking about getting a used variable speed pump, so why are the pictures of a single speed pump?

Are you getting the pump and replacing the motor with a variable speed motor?

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I’m sorry, completely my fault, and thank you for pointing it out!

I was sure it was a variable speed Tristar but it wasn’t, my fault.