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Water is still cloudy after multiple treatments

KBreuer15
PoolStored said:
Do it with 5mL sample for this test for now, each drop is 1FC.
When we get your pool down to normal levels, then use the 10mL sample from there.
Try it with 5mL sample.
Post a full set of results, FC CC pH, TA CH CYA and Salt
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Ok, the moment we have been waiting for:

FC - 55 (5 ml - 55 drops)
CC - 0
ph - 7.8 (Cl Br was too high and had floaties)
TA - 170
CH - 500
CYA - 40
Salt - 3200
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Light blue cloudy water

B

Mdragger88 said:
Follow the
SLAM Process
You will need an fas dpd test kit for that. Your k2005 is missing this.
tftestkits.net

FAS/DPD Chlorine Test Kit

tftestkits.net tftestkits.net
Or Taylor https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai...p9qWkZ-NAxW0SzABHd5VAB8Qwg8oAHoECAYQDQ&adurl=
If your cya is reading over 90 then you need to do the diluted test (see step 8)
www.troublefreepool.com

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
To confirm your true cya so you can replace the appropriate amount of water as doing the slam process with cya over 70 or so takes alot of chlorine which isn’t cheap. Ideally it would be better at 30-50ppm for slam.
See —> FC/CYA Levels

Until you have that fas dpd kit and can slam properly just add 5ppm worth of liquid chlorine each day to keep things from getting worse.
Use PoolMath to calculate
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Good evening guys, I backwashed and rinse the sand filter and then added 1 gallon of liquid chlorine this morning. I retested just now and now my cya level is below what my kit lowest results show. So the cya is 20ppm or below. I have ordered the FAS/DPD kit addition and will arrive tomorrow. My free chlorine level raised to 10-20ppm and my total chlorine was the same at 10-20ppm. All other test results are within the ideal range/goals to reach. I am attaching a picture of the pool water. It is not as cloudy as it was as I can see my brush almost to bottom of pool. Is my levels ready for the slam yet once I receive my FAS/DPD kit tomorrow? Or what should I do now? I really appreciate the help guys
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Light blue cloudy water

B
Good evening guys, I backwashed and rinse the sand filter and then added 1 gallon of liquid chlorine this morning. I retested just now and now my cya level is below what my kit lowest results show. So the cya is 20ppm or below. I have ordered the FAS/DPD kit addition and will arrive tomorrow. My free chlorine level raised to 10-20ppm and my total chlorine was the same at 10-20ppm. All other test results are within the ideal range/goals to reach. I am attaching a picture of the pool water. It is not as cloudy as it was as I can see my brush almost to bottom of pool. Is my levels ready for the slam yet once I receive my FAS/DPD kit tomorrow? Or what should I do now? I really appreciate the help guys
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cloudy water - new pool owner - help please!

PoolStored
lemanc said:
flocculant
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No Floc!

Continue to SLAM. Assume your CYA is 50. Taylor is more accurate. Stop going to the store. We got you!
There are no times on these, so I can't tell if you passed OCLT. None of them were passes day to day except 11 to 12th. Some nights were big gains.
One of your issues is that you are not testing and replacing often enough. Should be 3-4x per day or more, even up to every two hours.
Sand filters take the longest to clear.
If you can see a body at the bottom of the deep end, then it is clear enough to swim.

You Got This Good Luck Today GIF by MOODMAN
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So you are new to testing

PoolingInKC
Chiming in as well, I found TPF 10 years ago and I did not know one thing about water chemistry. Our PB never told us about CYA or pretty much anything but I digress. After I stumbled onto this site, bought my first TF-100 kit and went through all of the ABC's/Pool School, etc sections, I learned how to take care of my own pool/water. I can proudly say that following the TFP method, I've not had so much as a hint of nastiness in my water in those 10 years. So for the newbies........READ........Ask Questions........listen to what the people on this forum tell you and NOT what the profit motivated pool stores say or suggest you buy.

TFP is the ONLY WAY.
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New EVO 614i Robot Pool Cleaner Review

K
In case anyone is looking for alternatives to Marina, Leslie's currently has the 614iQ on sale for $749.25 w/free shipping, or pickup in store.

If you get tagged for sales tax, it's basically the same price as Marina.

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cloudy water - new pool owner - help please!

L
Hi, I appreciate this site and the help it's been to me. I'm a 2nd year pool owner. The first season was great and my water was clear throughout the season. This year, I missed that my FC dropped several days after open. The water turned a little cloudy and left me with ~5' of visibility.

After some reading, I attempted to SLAM about 10 days ago. I passed the CC and OCLT but the water has remained cloudy. I've attached my water test results. I wondered if my filter was to blame so I attempted to deep clean the sand but ended up needing to remove all of it, and I replaced it with glass media. The PSI reading on my filter has been constant since replacing the sand - around 13 PSI. It goes to 0 when I shut the filter off. I run my pump/filter 24/7. I've used some clarifier but that hasn't seem to have much of an effect. Today, the water is still cloudy but I am able to see the drain that is at a 9' depth. The store I have used is a bit shocked that the water is still cloudy given my chlorine levels. They are advising to try a flocculant once my FC drops. I've gathered from the forum that most would advise against trying that.

I think I've eliminated the possibility of having a filter issue. So, I think I either need to 1) be patient for my filter to work more or 2) do SLAM again and for longer, maybe assuming my CYA is 60. But before taking another step I thought I'd reach out for guidance from the community in case a more experienced pool owner spots something in my test results that I'm missing??? Also, when the SLAM instructions say you can swim if you can see the bottom of the pool, does that mean clearly? I can see my drain at the bottom but the water is still cloudy, so am wondering if the water is safe to swim in in the meantime. I was hoping to use the pool on Saturday for a b-day party.

Thank you!
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Pool Water Conservation

R
onBalance said:
Calcium Hardness – Another way of reducing calcium hardness in pool water (in addition to nanofiltration) is to precipitate the calcium by “dumping” sodium carbonate
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Why is this done in the pool, rather than using a seperate small 2nd hand above ground pool as a processing tank? Then use a fine drinking water filter to transfer each batch back into main pool. Or use an adaptive to get the particle to drop to bottom of the processing tank.
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Owner Build in Virginia Beach

J
  • North is roughly to the left side of the 2D layout. The body of water is the Lynnhaven River, which is connected to the Chesapeake Bay. Since you're in the NC area and may be familiar - this is inland of the Shore Drive Virginia Beach Area.
  • It will be our full-time residence and the house is currently being built (new construction). Neighbors on the right (kitchen) side will be closer than I would like, which is why we put the kitchen on that side, to partially screen them. Neighbors to the left are very well screened by trees and other vegetation.
  • Since this is on the Chesapeake Bay, we have to go through a very lengthy approval process to do anything within a certain distance from the waterway. We have already gotten approval for the basic footprint laid out in the drawings and that needs to roughly stay the same - specifically, the square footage can't increase.
  • I've asked for a profile of the pool so I can see how the shallow to deep transitions look and so far haven't gotten one. I'll ask for another one. Right now the pool effectively has about 31' of length when you subtract out the tanning ledge. Is that not enough? If not we will have to decide whether we want to remove the tanning ledge or the diving board. Or we could even make the pool a little longer (but not wider) so that it came closer to the house a couple feet.
  • Our current house has a pool that is a little larger than this one, so we're familiar with the floats and other stuff. We honestly just drag them out of the pool up onto the concrete right now and don't really worry about it. However, eventually I may build a small storage area somewhere off the pool area.
  • We haven't gotten to the audio and lighting selection stage yet. For audio, I'll likely keep it pretty minimal for now and just use a bluetooth speaker, but may add more in the future. For the lighting, not sure right now.
  • We had an outdoor shower at my current house and never used it so I just got rid of it. I will have water at the dock, so we will be able to rinse sand off before coming up. That really should be all I need for this. We also have a half bathroom that we specifically designed into the house so that there is an outside door that goes right to it from the pool area. It's the regular sized door you see in the pictures of the back of the house.
  • Deck surface material will depend on price. I would love to have large white/light colored pavers but I have a feeling they will be too costly. If that's the case, we will likely just go with brushed concrete, but I'm certainly open to suggestions.
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First time pool opening and a lot of conflicting information

PoolStored
poolno0b said:
also, do you think the data shared with me by the pool store is not accurate?
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No, your test kit is way more accurate. We don't trust pool store testing as a result. If we made recommendations on incorrect testing, we can do harm...we don't want no harm...
Testing_Accuracy.jpeg

Testing_Accuracy.jpeg

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can someone help me figure out how to get my cleaner to access the whole pool without getting stuck?

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta
I came across this diverter valve that uses unions as opposed to slip connections.

1747170304474.png


Union connections would allow you to cut and plumb the valve without tearing apart the rest of your plumbing. Measure to ensure you have enough room for the valve. Check this out...you would need the 2-Way version of the CMP valve:

How To Replace a Diverter Valve With One With Unions - INYOPools.com

This guide shows you how to replace a standard 3-way pool direrter valve with one with unions.
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com
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Rancho Cost-a-Lotta
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Pool Water Conservation

JoyfulNoise
Perhaps you can post the exact details of the lime softening process your technicians used? There are several different variations of it that both use or exclude sodium carbonate as an additive. It depends on what you are trying precipitate, if other hardness ions are present (like magnesium) or if there is non-carbonate anions as well (sulfates). Typical lime softening processes leave behind considerable amounts of sludge as well as water with a pH near 10 due to the caustic nature of lime.
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smaller circular solar covers instead of one large

Newdude
They sell 4ft (?) discs for this exact purpose. Covers of any shape or thickness eliminate evaporation, which accounts for 70% of your heat loss. Seran wrap would work just as well, but good luck rolling that up for next time. Lol.

Anywho, the evaporation loss is directly proportional to the area covered. Cover 75%, stop 75% of your evaporation. (Etc).

The will help and you'll probably hate them much less than we all hate(d) our full covers. Thats like the one thing we agree upon across TFP. Solar covers work great to their ability, and they suck.
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