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Another AquaRite "Hot" Error

ajw22

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

If you have a multimeter, you can check the resistance of the thermistor in the cell (pin 6 against pin 10 on the plug). See Temperature Sensors.

Cutting either the Red or Blue wire should get the Temperature display to read 77F.

Some people have patched into the cable and installed an external temperature sensor.
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Kem-Tek Brand MA was 31.45%, now 14.5% at Lowe’s

S
Just recently visited my local Lowe’s to buy some muriatic acid. They had the same brand I was buying last year, in the same packaging. At first, I was surprised to see that the price fell from ~$20 for two gallons to about $16. That is, until I noticed that they had swapped 31.45% for 14.5%.

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Mastic and Grout Question

ajw22
Expansion joints are often left open. Sometimes, foam is put along the joint during construction and the foam deteriorates over time. It does not need to be sealed.

You have a lot going on in that picture.

The green is grout.

The red is mortar the coping is laid on.

The white is waterline scale.

How deep is the hole at the yellow?

It looks like your coping is coming loose from the mortar.

You can put grout along the edge above the tile but it will eventually crack.

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ajw22
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Mastertemp Heater E01

M
Hi all! Just looking for a little advice and reassurance before I bite the bullet on a genuine Pentair replacement board.

In general, the heater will go through the start up display and then I get an E01 error code. Originally, I thought it was the thermistor as I have had that issue before, so I bought a new one and put it in. Same thing.

After reading through things more on here, I bought a multimeter and tested the thermistor. It is reading about 9,900 Ohms which according the chart is within two degrees of what the floating thermometer I put in the pool reads.

I bought some 10 Ohm resistors and was waiting for those to come in. This morning I went out to look at things again. I tried turning it on again, the display did not work (this has happened before after a rain and it rained last night) but the heater fired up and ran for a couple of hours before shutting off. After that, it was back to the E01 error code. The resistors came in today, so I hooked up the resistor between the wires going to the thermistor and same result - E01 error code.

The following LED's are lit on the board - LED 7, LED 11 & PS.

Is there anything else I should check/try first or do I need to replace the board with the new updated board and keypad?

Thanks for any help!
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Mastic and Grout Question

K
I bought this house two years ago, and I believe the pool was built about 15 years before that. I noticed that the expansion joint between the decking and the coping has no sealant in it whatsoever. Around the entire length of the pool and spa, the expansion joint is just empty. There is no sign that mastic was ever there. Was that intentional or has it just deteriorated and I need to quickly fill it back in? Assume
Deck-o-seal would be the go-to Solution?

My other question is on the grout. The grout in the natural stone tile line is deteriorating and falling away in several places. any recommendations on a product to repair that grout would be appreciated.
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Pool Water Conservation

JoyfulNoise
This link gives a good summary of lime softening used in potable water distribution systems.


Even though we don’t measure it commonly, pool water can have a significant magnesium content. Taylor sells a test kit that can measure both total hardness and calcium hardness. The difference between the two is typically from magnesium. Since pool water can contain sulfates and phosphates as well, it’s important to know what’s there so the right lime softening procedures can be used. Typically the final product has high pH (around 10 or so) and so some kind of adjustment is needed either using a mineral acid (muriatic acid) or carbon dioxide injection.
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Pump Won't Start

R
TinFoilHat said:
That's in one of his top photos with a bunch of red and black wires. I think the timer crapped out unless he lost his main into the box. For that the breaker supplying this panel needs to be checked first. What is the voltage across 1 and 2? If it's zero then check the supply breaker.
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When I flip the breaker, the timer powers up. There is a display. When I turn the breaker on, r10 is displayed for a second and then the display comes on normally.
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First time pool opening and a lot of conflicting information

P
PoolStored said:
For the moment, I'm worried about ammonia. The elevated CC and low CYA is an indicator. The pH is likely 7.8, which is a contra indicator.
10ppm addition once will not hurt the pool and will confirm or deny ammonia.
Add the the chlorine, test 30 minutes later. Post results.
Wait 10 min after chlorine to add MA. Reduce pH by only .4 and post pic of results.
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Got it. Will do this tomorrow. It’s going to rain, will that be an issue? Can I do it during the day or wait until evening?
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ajw22
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New In-Ground Pool Owner in Jarrettsville, MD – Excited to Learn!

kinzwil10
Hi everyone,

I’m new here and thrilled to be joining Trouble Free Pool! I recently bought my first home in Jarrettsville, Maryland. This is my first time owning a house—let alone one with a pool—so I have a lot to learn.

The pool is in-ground and chlorine-based, and there are lots of trees surrounding it. I’m guessing that will mean extra work keeping leaves and debris out of the water, so I’d love advice on managing that efficiently.

I’ve heard great things about the TFP approach and am eager to soak up as much knowledge as possible to keep my pool sparkling clean while avoiding unnecessary costs.

I’d love any advice from seasoned pool owners, especially regarding first steps even though the pool is already open, must-have equipment, daily to dos, and maintenance routines that work best. Looking forward to connecting with the community and learning from everyone’s expertise!

Thanks in advance!
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