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Jsf721 · Tuesday at 5:23 AM

TeanyV said:
This is very cool! Happy healing!

Thanks. I’m on the way.

MiScubaJeeper · Tuesday at 5:10 AM

PoolStored said:
I would have no trouble using the Circupool Pump. It is a medium head pump, and sells for about $1000. Probably would be fine.
The Hayward Tristar line are great, high head pumps. The VS 950 is the king, and the VS 900 is the queen. You likely will get no more benefit from the 950 vs. the 900 with regard to the energy efficiency. The 950 will be quieter, and may last longer. Toss up as to what is important to you. The price is reasonable.
You don't indicate WHICH omni. There is OmniLogic, Hayward OmniPL and Hayward OmniHub. Which is he installing?
Florida pool builders and installers waaaaay udersize the filter. It is actually a joke. When we see a 150 or 200 filter on a post, without looking we know you are in Florida. I would get a Hayward skim clear 325 or 425. You can likely go the year and clean them twice.
Ensure you get a T-9, or T-15 cell.

Get a complete quote, with all makes and model #s including the cell. Redact your name and post the quote. We'll confirm.

I'm still waiting for an official quote but I do have some clarification. His recommendation is for the AquaRite S3 Omni Salt System w/40,000 Gallon Clear TurboCell. So it's not the separate automation system but rather the Hayward products (pump, SWG, filter and heater (eventually) that can be controlled from the phone app. I guess I don't need the separate automation system (OmniLogic, OmniPL or OmniHub) for just controlling the various products from the app.

Branster · Tuesday at 5:08 AM

Problem resolved. I realised that their is a much smaller threaded ring on the outlet which I am able to screw the blue connector on to.

MiScubaJeeper · Tuesday at 5:04 AM

PoolStored said:
Organics in a pool, whether they are in the pool or trapped in the filter will consume HOCl. Doesn't matter where they are. The filter cleaning is the issue. Larger filters require less frequent cleaning. In this case, in Florida, pool builders tend to install 150sqft or 200sqft filters which require more frequent cleaning than larger filters, and we get new FL members all the time complaining about frequency of cleanings. We also recommend the use of hairnets/skimmer socks to reduce filtration load. We have many members with large (30K+ gallon) pools and clean once, or maybe twice a year.

Our recommendation is to install the largest filter you can afford and will fit on your pad. Cartridge/DE/Sand is more of a personal preference. Either way, less frequent cleanings, more trouble free.

You might enjoy these:
Pool Chemistry:

Pool Chemistry - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Why go big and go cartridge- see "pool filter sizing":

Pool Chemistry - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Is there a specific post or article called "pool filter sizing"? The link is for Pool Chemistry. I couldn't find a specific post with that title.

crackers8199 · Tuesday at 4:54 AM

PoolStored said:

thanks for the super helpful advice.

Grifter! · Tuesday at 3:09 AM

Hi all,

New member here, and first post!

I live in Valencia, Spain and have a 10x5 Roman pool. I have just started installing a Seko double pool doser, but I’m stumped on one aspect, so any help would be appreciated!

I understand that the pool dosers should only input chemicals when the main pool circulation pump is running, and the Seko unit has a cable marked pump trigger, but I’m not sure how to connect this to my system? Currently my pool pump is controlled via an Alexa smart wifi plug, which allows me to switch on and time it remotely, so does anyone know the best way to link the new doser trigger to this existing pump system? Or does the Seko unit in effect have to take full control of the pump? Although I’m doubting this as there doesn’t appear to be any systems on the menu for timed operation of a pump?

Any help appreciated!

Jimrahbe · Tuesday at 2:57 AM

L,

You are correct.. it often takes a few seconds to change between Auto and the Service modes.

Any time you are in the Service mode the pump's display should show some type of rpm screen.. Meaning that the pump's control panel is controlling the pump.. The pump should not be running unless you push the "F" button, because in the Service mode nothing will automatically run..

Any time you are in Auto, the pump's display should show Display not active.. It does not matter if the pump is running or not... This means the EasyTouch is controlling the pump.

Jim R.

PoolStored · Tuesday at 2:26 AM

I made a big mistake earlier, which @proavia caught.

When using FAS-DPD, 10mL sample, each drop is .5FC, not 1 FC as I said.

Hope you caught that and are clear.

JamesW · Tuesday at 2:09 AM

Continue SLAM to completion.

JamesW · Tuesday at 2:07 AM

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JamesW · Tuesday at 2:05 AM

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JamesW · Tuesday at 2:04 AM

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JamesW · Tuesday at 2:03 AM

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JamesW · Tuesday at 2:01 AM

Google Search

JamesW · Tuesday at 1:59 AM

The provided address, 8133 Clybourn Avenue, Sun Valley, California 91352, is a business address. It is the location for Quzian Woodworking Inc.. There is also mention of a business named Davit Khachatryan with the same address. Sun Valley is a neighborhood in the San Fernando Valley region of Los Angeles, California.

JamesW · Tuesday at 1:58 AM

Has anybody purchased parts from Amazon seller AquaTech Pools and Spas ?

They are selling 2" CPVC Pentair 2-way valves for $30 less (with free shipping) than other pool supply stores online. I wasn't sure if sellers could be rebuilding or refurbishing vavles.

www.troublefreepool.com

rsg123 · Tuesday at 1:57 AM

setsailsoon said:
I know you've been here since 2020 but looks like some of the basics may be part of the issue. Do you have a recommended test kit or are these pool store test results? Have you added any PS potions or are you using cheaper generics that we recommend? Lastly, can you please fill in your signature. It gets you quicker and better responses plus helps us to be efficient with volunteers time. I have very high TA well water and got the flakes you describe until I got the TA down well below 100. Also quickly deposited in the swg so I had to clean it within months of being new. Previous pool never had to clean it once after years of service. That one I managed to less than zero virtually 100% of the time. Usually between -.1 and 0. How big is your pool?

I hope this helps.

Chris

I previously used the Taylor K-2005 and just switched over to the salt version. I have not used any of the pool store potions in some time. Thanks—I just filled out the signature. It is 20k gallons. I will work on getting the TA down.

rsg123 · Tuesday at 1:54 AM

sande005 said:
You said "LSI" and not "CSI" that we generally refer to here. How are you testing your water? Pool Store?

CSI and LSI - Further Reading

Taylor K-2005 salt. I use the Orenda app which uses LSI.

proavia · Tuesday at 12:55 AM

How/where do you store them when it's not winter?
Best storage for reagents is in a climate controlled space - inside the house.
Mine stay indoors and I test everything at the kitchen sink - except the CYA test, which I do outdoors after I mix the pool water and reagent.

jorgeL · Tuesday at 12:44 AM

Not a huge difference. The new cam has a narrower head, the part that lift the RTvalve, but not by much and it has a smoother transition, meaning the transition from closed to open is smoother because the slope of the cam is more gradual. If anything the new cam should work better.

jorgeL · Tuesday at 12:43 AM

P00LNerd · Tuesday at 12:41 AM

Thanks, guys! Cover will come off tomorrow, then. It'll be cloudy and raining the next 6 days anyway, so little to be gained from having the solar cover on.

Pool water is holding 69 - 73 F with cover on sunny days, which is great considering we were 59F - 61F water temperature a week ago. Daughter even went for a swim today, when we hit 81F air temperature mid-afternoon. But we won't be seeing much higher than 60F air temperature the next several days, no one will be swimming.

proavia · Tuesday at 12:38 AM

Compare both cams and let us know what is different about them.
Check from different angles.

With the old cam it still changes 10 psi?

ogdento · Tuesday at 12:37 AM

What firmware version have you got on your Easytouch? Asking because if you have a current-ish version 2.180 or 2.190 then you'll want to make sure your Laird card has 2040 or greater (I think there might be a 2050, not sure). I've had trouble pairing remotes when the Laird card is at 2030 or earlier.

jorgeL · Tuesday at 12:34 AM

I think it is on every zone change. I need to watch it for the full 6 minutes that it cycles through all zones to make sure.
The interesting part is that with the new replacement cam the pressure stays high for all valves except for one valve but if I switch the cam to the original one (just the cam, the gears are the new gears) then it changes pressure on every zone.

s.hashemirud · Tuesday at 12:28 AM

Hello everyone,
We are looking for a reliable company in Seattle or around who can resurface our pool and the deck. Do you know a good company around here? Do you have any experience resurfacing your pool?

proavia · Tuesday at 12:26 AM

We were posting at the same time...
I see you have a side feed and T-valves.

A 10 pound pressure rise seems excessive. Is this on every zone change or just on one or two zones? If only on one or two, my bet is the T-valfe on those zones isn't fully opening.

jorgeL · Tuesday at 12:24 AM

It is a 6 port side feed with T valves. The replacement cam and gear set is a 6 port as well.
10 psi fluctuation seems high to me but I've never had IFCS. I was thinking of replacing the T-valves but it may not be necessary.

PoolStored · Tuesday at 12:16 AM

proavia · Tuesday at 12:12 AM

IFCS cycling between zones will always cause a pressure fluctuation. As one zone closes the next started to open causing a slight pressure drop. My filter gauge fluctuates about 4-5 pounds.

Is your IFCS water distribution valve a top feed or side feed?
Does it have the acrylic balls or T-valves?

There are 5 port and 6 port water distribution valves. There are also several different gearsets. Be sure you have the correct gearset for your style water valve. I think the foot that lifts the acrylic balls or T-valves are different as well.

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