Anyone own this waterline aerator, or something similar?

I am aware of the pool aerators found here: Cooling A Pool - Further Reading. However, I would like something more discrete, even at the expense of performance. Also, it seems these are fairly easy to remove & store when running the robot (I am assuming leaving any aerator/mister in-place when running a bot is not good).

These come in a pack of two. I have 6 total returns, I also hope not to have to block any returns to get something like this to work. I am not interested in a DIY solution, but I'm open to other products or suggestions.

My pool reaches 92 degrees, and I only want to reduce temperature by 4-5 degrees.

Hello, We’ve had a pool for about 5 years now. Lots of problems, LOL. It’s an in-ground, indoor, salt water pool. We sprung a leak at the deep end ladder. The leak has been patched but we are unsure if we should reinstall the ladder. How well do the patches hold up? HELP! LOL. I’m stuck with 2 out of school children and no pool (no steps to get in or out)

Hello all, I hope you're staying cool in your pool!!!

I've been in this house about 1.5 years and take care of my chemicals thanks to you all!

I'm trying to figure out the right thing to do with my return jets. I've uploaded 4 pictures, one of the pool and jet numbers in each other picture. I have a 20k gallon pool probably about 40 years old. It has one drain, one skimmer basket, two return jets #1 & #3, and another return jet that is used by my vacuum booster pump.

#1 is in my shallow end over the steps, you can see the buildup and where the water was directed before.

#2 is the Booster and halfway point of the pool.

#3 is in the deep end.

Both #1 and #3 have 4 screws and seems to be an return that swivels, but is a little loose.

#2 has an adapter that I've pulled out when not using the vacuum. It has threaded pipe inside that I can put some type of return on.

My challenge is since I only have 1 skimmer, and the returns are on the same side of the pool. I can't figure out how to position the jets. I'm also looking to get a return for #2.

I believe I have 1.5 " pipe throughout, it's a Hayward DE filter, and VSP. My typical pressure seems to be at 8psi.

I'm sure I'm leaving something out, but hope this was thorough.

how long do people keep skimmer socks in?
do you reuse them, and if so, what is your cleaning process between uses?

despite never failing oclt, no visible algae, my pool fills with dead algae every week. im wondering if the skimmer sock is seeding it, because if it gets an algae cell on it, then covered by dead algae, it can never be chlorinated by passing water, right?

should I just ditch them and let the water go into the filter without a sock?

thanks in advance

Does anybody have any information about this pump? From the specs it looks like it’s way over engineered for simply automating the adding of liquid chlorine… But I have a chance to get it at an amazing price and a buddy of mine is looking to automate the adding of liquid chlorine to his pool.

S3001AA101NG1​

So after a year long pool build project, we FINALLY got it finished and pool filled 2 days ago. We have a custom blend Stonescapes Tropics Blue. I'll update my build thread soon.
Anyway, start-up was today and since I wasn't able to be there (he'll be back on Monday to do the walk thru), I have no idea what he added but the water chemistry went haywire. I'm using the TF-100 test kit.

2 days ago our numbers were:
FC - 1
PH - 7.2
TA - 120
CH - 275
CYA - 0

I added some acid to bring the TA down and some Jacks Magic Blue Stuff as a sequestrant.

Yesterday our numbers were:
FC - 1
PH - 6.8
TA - 80
CH - 300
CYA - 0

I added a small amount of Borax to see if it would raise PH

Today after start-up our numbers are:
FC - 8 <--- how concerning is this?
PH - <6.8
TA - 30 <--- how concerning is this?
CH - 350
CYA - 0

So from what I've read, I really can't do anything to get the chlorine level down? I know I can add borax to raise PH, but I've also read that new plaster will raise PH on it's own. TA fell off a cliff and Pool Math app is telling me to add 9 lbs of baking soda?!

Looking for any guidance here. Obviously the start-up guy added a ton of chlorine or shock (which I didn't want), but now I'm unsure of how to proceed to get things leveled out. This seems almost like an unintentional acid start, which I would have liked to avoid based on what @onBalance said about it shortening the lifespan of the plaster.

This is my first pool, so I'm in uncharted waters here. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

My light developed a leak after a liner replacement and trashed my LED bulb. I need to test it, but if the leak is at the cable, I have to replace the whole thing, correct? Here's a couple of pics. The rust in the back makes me think it's leaking at the cable. Thanks for any advice.

Two questions. The O ring for the stand pipe in my filter is cracked. Needs replacement? And the air vent hose is cracked but still stands pretty straight. Does that also need replacement?
Thanks

For times when you want to remove cell for cleaning or whatnot? What about the flow switch - can that remain in place?

my husband and I decided this year to put in a AGP “oval” 21x43x54 the whole process has been a nightmare. Everything that could go wrong has including the weather. I’m about on the verge of tears! We finally started on the liner a couple days ago but I have had problems there too. I can’t seem to get it clocked and it’s obviously twisting. My question is can a liner appear to fit smaller then it is if not hung correctly? Meaning will it not touch up against the walls or sit properly above the cove, but then in some other areas fit very well…? Any information I can get would be so helpful and appreciated this project has gone on for almost 5 weeks and I’m completely drained in every way possible thank you in advance!

Hear me out...
We were in the middle of a long vacation, and we get word the "pool looks a little green". Unfortunate news, but not completely unexpected in the hot and rainy Florida summer, and with a pool that gets a lot of sun all day. The SWCG setting itself to 0% on it's own didn't help either. Fast-forward a few days, and on the morning we return, I find myself in the hospital for a day or so (nothing major, fortunately). During this time, a decision is made (without my approval) to hire a pool service to clean the pool, as it's "too much" for me to manage.

<sigh>

Now looking back over the video footage, trying to see what has been done to the water. It looks like their approach is to dump in 7.5gal of LC, 1gal of MA, and add "Regal Yellow Blast" (99% sodium bromide) on day 1. Day 2 appears to be more sodium bromide, and that's it. Today's water test yielded a 3.5FC, 0.5CC, 7.2pH.

Armed with this info, I hit TFP and see that the sodium bromide may have created a whole new headache to solve. Am I right?

At least I think it is a 4.45.

I had a fouled SWG. Cleaned it. Plugged it in.

• "SALT LEVEL LOW" or something like that message.
  
  
• My salt level is higher than 3200 ppm.

Tried to reset salt level, but the instructions in the PDF noted below don't seem to work:

• "ProLogic_4.45_Troubleshooting_Guide.pdf"

After a while it reset itself and is now working correctly.

• I would like to know how to reset the salt level from the get-go?

tanks

mac

I have been testing PH and chlorine daily. PH is at 7.8-8.0 every day we test and we add acid per the pool math trying to achieve 7.6. CH was staying at 200 the first two weeks and now has dropped to 120. Will add CH per pool math. Is TA ok? Can I expect PH to ever get down and stay down at least a day or two. We are having temps over 100+. We do have a spa spillover we can't turn off unless we put in spa mode. Pool setting is at low rpm which make the spillover trickle over and not full sheer.

PH 7.85
FC 6.0 CC 0
TA 80
CH 120
CYA 60

Hello,
I am having issues with my pool after replacing the liner. Due to some hard plumbing leaks I have not been able to clean the pool bc we had to drain some water for repairs. The water is now green and has been for 2 wks. I finally got things repaired and I tested the water. I have not added stabalizer or chlorine yet so those are zero. TA is 125 and my PH is a dark magenta/violet color. I am not sure if the PH spike could be from algae or if I need to use muriatic acid. Any advise would be very helpful. Thank you!

We're going on our 4th season with our above ground pool and it has been mostly great. The Intex SWG has worked fairly well, but the life of the electrodes has been short. Even though it says it is rated for 15k gallons, I have to run it for 7 or so hours per day during the summer to keep the chlorine up. The electrodes need to be soaked in acid frequently to clean, so I started having a second one on hand so I can just swap them back and forth. I've had to replace the main one several times ($125 each), and the secondary one once ($62.50 each), as they eventually just stop making chlorine and/or throw low salt errors.

Between the constant maintenance and the cost of replacing the electrodes, I'm feeling like it might be worth investing in a higher quality system. I'd rather stay under $1k, which seems reasonable given the small size of the pool. I've googled and found some options, like this: CircuPool SJ-20 Saltwater Chlorinator | Discount Salt Pool
but would love to get input from actual pool folks. Thanks!

had to use pinch a penny for pool service since knee replace. they use a riptide vacuum. which is best riptide or hammer head ?

Hi, for those of you using the Apera PH60 pH tester, how do you store the pen and all the associated solutions once you've opened them all and are storing the pen with the KCL storage solution in the cap?

The supplied case (photo) is fine for shipping, but pretty much useless once you open all the containers and fill the pen's cap with storage solution since no matter how you orient the case something will be on its side and prone to leaking out. So for now the pen is precariously standing on its cap and I've got multiple containers (storage solution, buffer solutions, etc), all just sitting on a shelf. I've ordered the Apera CalPod which will help some with the buffers, but there are still lots of separate containers that need storing right-side up, as well as the pen itself.

I use Tanos Systainers for my other hobby storage needs, but curious if anyone has already found a good way to do this for the PH60 + accessories.
Thanks!

I am adding a solar heater (in between filter and existing gas heater), and am using @Rancho Cost-a-Lotta 's amazing post as a guide for the automation for contolling the actuator-enhanced 3-way valve. Most folks here seem to opt for the Sonoff line of products for wifi relays and sensors. I am trying to stick with devices that work with the Tuya/SmartLife app since I already have a bunch (including Dewenwils pool switch), so I have purchased this relay and this temperature gauge, which appear to have identical hardware to the Sonoffs and I assume the apps include similar features (but if I need to I'll buy the Sonoff versions).

My question is about programming the logic for turning on and off the solar heater. My thought is to use two temp sensors, one right before the solar heater and one coming out. Solar will go on automatically in the morning and will stay on as long as the water coming out from solar is higher than going in, and if not, then turn off (and it will turn off in any case in the late afternoon when the sun is gone). By the way, I'm in Michigan, and the pool is only open from around Memorial Day to around Labor Day, so this doesn't need to be a year-round solution.

Problem is, I don't know if the Tuya app (or Alexa routines) supports comparing two temporature sensors. I can set a trigger for if the temperature is below or above a set number, but I can't figure out how to use two sensors in concert to define the trigger.

Does anybody know how to do this? Is this supported by the app the Sonoff app, or is there a third service (IFTTT or something) that can enable this functionality? Did I buy the wrong product? If I flash the firmware and install Tasmota (which I know will entail a learning curve) will that add this functionality? I'll do that if I have to, but I'm curious if anybody has gotten this to work with the stock smart home platforms.

Taking a step back, is this even the most efficient logic to control the solar? Should I be measuring air temperature or light (which the sensor I bought also does) instead?

Tuya and Alexa can use weather data (reported from an online service, not based on sensors, so reliability is questionable). Is the simplest solution to just use that, i.e., on during normal daylight hours, turn off if weather is "cloudy" or "rainy," turn on if "sunny" (BTW only options are sunny/cloudy/rainy/snowy/hazy)? I want to balance efficiency with ease of use so I can set it and forget.

To my fellow TFP super humans

My pool is super clear
but the texture isn't right,
feels a bit like sticky/tacky
Any ideas?

Hello TFP community.

My pool’s main drain was plugged at the bottom and skimmer. The previous owner (2005-2022) told me they never unplugged the main drain (I’m wondering if they were scared out of doing it by the company they used to service the pool). I’m still SLaMing the pool but yesterday I removed the plug at the skimmer. It’s now been over 12hrs and I have not had any noticeable drop in water level. Am in the clear or is there still the potential for a leak to come to light when I unplug the drain at the bottom of the pool?

Thanks for your help as always!

Hi all,

Since purchasing my house, I've been wondering about this pipe (capped with an open T):




As I'm doing a SLAM at this time (and my water is crystal clear but still something is consuming quite a bit of chlorine), I'm wondering if this could be linked to the issue...

Thanks,
Bernard.

I guess thread title says it all. Due to pool leak (now fixed), CH gradually fell to 200 (no hard tapwater here, thankfully). Other #’s are TA 60, pH 8.0, CYA 60, and temps in the low 80’s, gives CSI of -0.21 and pH ceiling of 8. I’d like to just leave things there until weather turns cold. Seems should be ok but is there something more to be thinking about? The Poolmath recommendation is CH 250 minimum and I hesitate to deviate from that without asking — is there an important reason for that or is it just a general best practices type recommendation?

I recently bought a house with an older inground pool. Air slowly accumulates in the pump strainer basket over 3-8 hours until there is virtually no flow coming from the pool jets and I get a low flow error from the pool heater. The DE filter pressure is a little high goes from 23 psi to about 30 psi less than 24 hours after backwashing. To keep the pool clean and circulating, 2 - 3 times a day I need to blow out the air from the system by setting to "recirculate" which blows out the air. (Backwash work too). Then I have decent flow from the pool jets for a few hours until the air accumulates again.

My pool service company first replaced the DE filter grids and manifold. That didn't work (Pressure levels are similar and still getting air in the pump strainer). Next replaced the pool pump.... that didn't work . Next, they think there is a suction side air leak. (water level is fine in the pool). They have tried to find an suction side air leak and can not find anything. Checked all of the valves, connections and lubed up all "o" rings. They now think there is an air leak "underground". I called another pool service company and they said my filter is VERY undersized for my pool and that is causing the high filter pressure and air getting into the pump strainer. I would rather replace the filter than rip up the landscaping to find an underground air leak, but I don't know if the Filter is the problem. Does anyone have experience with this? Can an undersized filter cause back pressure that would cause air to accumulate in the pump and loose flow to the pool jets? I appreciate any help. Thanks

Hello all, this is my first post on here and my first pool (details should be in my signature if I did it right). I have been lurking for a few weeks and learning what I can. I bought a TF-Pro Salt test kit but am waiting on the SmartStir which is on backorder. According to calculators on TFP my ideal levels are:

FC: depends on CYA
PH: 7.6-7.8
TA: 60-80
CYA: 70-80

My pool builder (PB) filled my pool on June 3rd and did all the startup testing treatment balancing for about 2 weeks at which point we were able to start using the pool. The PB staff continued to do testing, cleaning chemicals, etc. until July 17th on that date a local pool service PS company that the PB works with took over and does four weeks of free service at which point I will have to decide if I am going to maintain on my own or have this other company continue to do it for me at $150/month.

While the PB was maintaining the pool I received test results on a note they would leave behind for me which I have entered into Pool Math as I followed along. Here is a partial history for background:

July 12 PB test reported:
FC: 0
PH: 7.4
TA: 50
CYA: 50
Salt: 2800
Water Temp: 85

They added :
- 25lbs of Salt
-128 oz of Bleach
- 8 oz of Liquid Stabilizer
and SWG running at 30% 9am to 5pm daily

July 21 Partial Testing (by me):
FC: 1 (R0600)
PH: 8.2 (R0014)
CYA: 50 (R0013)
Water Temp: 88

I added:
- 6oz of 20 Baum
- SWG up to 40%

July 23 Partial Testing (by me):
FC: 1 (R0600)
PH: 8.2 (R014) Suspect 7/21 test was well above 8.2 and still not down enough to register lower

I added:
- 6 oz of 20 Baum (rechecked after 2 hours and PH was 7.5

Today July 24 8am Partial Test (by me):
FC: 0 (R0600)
PH: 7.5
Turned on filter pump at 8am before testing
Added nothing as Pool Service visits Mondays

Today July 24 12:30pm PS Test: (spoke to them and asked as they do not provide the test results in emailed report just a summary of what they do)
FC: 5
PH: 7.8 (different than what I got 4 hours earlier)
TA: 120
CYA: 50
Salt: 3200
Water Temp: 85

They added:
32oz of "Acid" (not sure what strength didn't get to see the bottle)

I rechecked about 2 hours later:
FC: 0.5 (R0600)
PH 6.8 (may be much lower than 6.8 as when I added 6 oz of 20 Baum it came down from 8.2 to 7.5)

So here are my questions:
1. Am I using the right test to check FC level? Why might there be such a difference between what I read and what the PS told me?
2. What do I need to do to level things off as they seem to be quite a bit off? I am thinking:

• TA needs to come down to about 70 and PH needs to go up to about 7.6, I think I can aerate using the spa bubbler which would do both of those? How long should I aerate for or how often do I recheck while aerating?
• CYA needs to go up to 70 or 80 do I do this first or the TA and PH first?

3. Is there anything else I am missing or need to be doing at this point?

Thanks

Hi,

I am planning on building a lean to over my pad and I had a question about the concrete support tiers that I need to put in. The plumbing runs about a foot out in front of the pipes (red lines in pic) and I'm wondering how close I can put the support tiers to the plumbing. I want to get them as close as I reasonably can but wasn't sure how far away I should stay from the piping? Is 6 inches away far enough? There is a gate right there and I want to keep access through it to a max for the landscapers and such.

thanks

I have upgraded the pump that came with our Coleman pool to a Intex 2500gph pump. I am using the 1.25in hoses that came with the pool for one outlet and a thru wall skimmer. Those are connected to a 1.25 t joint, which then connects to the bigger 1.5 hose via an adapter.
Would there be any benefit in changing those hoses to the bigger 1.5 hoses?
About to get this all cleaned up and looking nice but before doing so I didn't know if I should change these to the bigger 1.5 hoses or if there was any need? Would there be any noticeable difference in flow rate or filtration with larger hoses?
Don't want to waste time and money if there isn't any benefit in going bigger.

Attached a few pics if needed for reference. Thanks!

My 1.5 hp pentair pump went out on my AGP (metal). I have a sand dollar filter. I'm swapping out the pump with a Doheny 1.5 hp. The hose from the pump to filter also sprung a leak the other day so it's getting changed out too. The problem is, the threads on the hose don't match for the pump. We've looked everywhere and can't find an adapter to work. So we're considering converting the *pump to filter* hose to pvc.

Is 2" pvc fine, as is a 2" flex hose previously?

Can we just go straight up from the pump, install a 90 and go straight to the filter?

I know we need a disconnect in there as well.

Any other tips besides - don't use purple to avoid looking like a crime scene?

Well we have been getting over an inch of rain a day lately and the CH has been steadily decreasing to the point it’s time to add some. I did a search of threads but the sources and brands are all several years old. What is the brand of ice melt seems to have the purest concentration?

If I have a limited number of sweeps versus regular 90s, should I prioritize using them on the suction side (before the pump) or pressure side (after the pump)? Or does it not matter, and the head loss is calculated on a system-wide basis, no matter where any individual fitting is located within the system?

So, my wife went swimming today and unplugged the pump since she doesn't like the jets. When I got home I went to get water to test the chlorine and pH, noticed this and plugged it back in. 0 PSI and weak pressure from the return jet.

I tried to reprime the pump but unfortunately I can't seem to find the pressure valve, so whenever I remove the top seal the water just gushes out. I don't have a valve that I can close from the skimmer so I blocked it with a skimmer plug.

I tried letting run for a bit but still nothing. I tried backwashing in case the Sand filter was clogged. It was dirty but not terrible.

After backwashing the water level is a little low on the skimmer but it seemed fine before that. So I might try adding more water but I hate doing that because my well water is alkaline and high iron.

For reference I have an 18 foot Cornelius above ground pool and a Hayward Powerflow LX pump hooked up to a 100 lb sand filter.