Pump did not start today no humming just dead. Traced voltage to pump L1 to L2 236 volts. I've had the power off and once or twice when I turn power on it runs for 1 second. I've traced the control wires to my RS looks good. Any ideas thanks Eric
What is the device between L1 and L2 could it be a surge protection that has shorted. Swapped the Aqualink and not pump. Blower and valves work.

I have two Pentair lights, that look like they are 20 years old (images attached). I replaced the bulbs about 4 years ago with LEDs when they burned out, and they have worked well since. Unfortunately, this season the lights would not come on, and I noticed there was some water within the lights. I bought new gaskets, and let the lights dry out. The lights seemed to work on the deck, but after reinstalling Light 2, I noticed Light 1 was going in and out like it had a bad contact.

I checked Light 1 and the bulb came apart as I unscrewed it and there was a good amount of rust. I bought a new LED and cleaned the rust as best I could with steel wool, electric contact cleaner spray, eraser, and rubbing alcohol, but the light won't come back on, and after I pulled the bulb and cleaned Light 1, Light 2 stopped going on as well.

I noticed when I took Light 2 back out the green grounding cable had come unattached from the niche. I'm not sure if that is causing the not to come on again. That socket for Light 2 was rusty as well, but that light at least was coming on.

I called around, and quickest/most reasonable service company to come out was Leslie's, but they said I need to drain the pool past the lights for service.

So my questions are:
1. Is it possible the lights are not coming on because they detect the grounding wire has come undone?
2. Is there anything else I may be missing and should look into?
3. Am I risking damage to the vinyl liner if I drain the pool past the lights that much so they can service it (they are standard height) ?
4. Am I crazy to try to service these lights given their age and corrosion, or should I just get them replaced?
4.a. Would current Pentair lights fit in these old Pentair niche's?

I used this for about 2 seasons. It is supposedly designed for above-ground pool systems. I sprang a large leak splitting wide open. Very lucky it basically happened in front of us.
Can you recommend a flexible 1.5" hose that would hold under regular pump pressure?

We've had our pool for a month. When the pool people came to give me a tutorial, I video taped him, didn't want to make any mistakes. I thought it was super helpful. With the salt, he said, don't worry about the timer because your filter is on a timer. He went over the lights, that's it. Every time I took my water to get tested, my pool had zero chlorine, each time given something new to do, my pool still looked good, but every week zero chlorine! It turned a little green, able to correct, but still zero chlorine. Shame on me for not reading the manual sooner, all the trimmers were turned in, so I was never generating chlorine! I thought the auto meant it was OK. I turned the pins out, finally the generating chlorine light is on!! My question, should I slam because my SWG will never be able to catch up. I have the Taylor Test Kit coming tomorrow. Thank you for reading my long message!

Hi TFP!

I believe I have a leak in my in ground pool. Here are the details.
-17 x 32 rectangle pool in Michigan. One set of standard steps. One set of steps with 8 return jets. Deep end with 2 bottom drains. 2 standard returns. 1 light at deep end.
-Closing went fine. Noticed water level was lower than normal when I opened but didn't mark exactly how low (I wish I had). Memory says it was near the pool light level so that may be a clue
-Ground on the shallow side of the pool near the steps is soggy
-I lose 1 inch of water in 24 hours whether the pump is on or off
-I removed the light and tried food color test around the light housing but did not see the coloring get sucked into the housing
-Did food color test around the steps and side skimmer and bottom drains but did not see the coloring get sucked into any of these spots
-Noticed that the return near the deep end shows a thin line of tiny air bubbles...could be another clue
After reading the Leak Detection article, seems like I have two choices....
1) let the water level drop to see where the water loss stops. And/or....
2) have a pressure test performed. Do you have suggestions?

Hello!

I'm still very new to this; this is my second time posting. It was recommended that I try to SLAM my pool due to it constantly turning green when adding chlorine and high CC. I've been performing the SLAM for a few weeks now and the pool has cleared to a light green color. I haven't passed the overnight test yet so I'm not going to stop the process but I'm concerned about the brown staining and green color the pool has. The pool has had this staining since I started the SLAM process. I've gone through 22 gallons of LC (12 gallons of 10% and 10 gallons of 12.5%) so far. I run the filter 24/7 and brush it multiple times a day in addition to having the robot running 24/7. I realize I need to continue to be patient I'm just concerned with the staining; Vitamin C or Absorbic Acid does clear up the staining and get the water clear but it does return; I did it when starting the SLAM but days later it was back to green. I've removed and re-added water a few times during the SLAM process due to heavy rains.

Current Test results:
FC 16
CC 1
pH 7.5 - it was 7.2 when I started SLAM
TA 110
CH 125
CYA ~35-40 - Using 40 to SLAM


Questions:

Will this staining cause damage?

Should I clear up the pool with Vitamin C and just wait till I clear the 2 tests of SLAM (CC & OCLT)?

Do I just wait to clear all the SLAM tests? Will I even be able to clear all 3 tests? The water is clear but will the green go away?

Is there something else I can/should do?


Thank you!

New PoolMath user here (paid subscriber). I've just started logging my data into the app (iOS). This week I've added 16oz Muriatic Acid and 32oz liquid chlorine (this should be visible in my logs, which I think I've made visible here on the forum -- let me know if not).

However, when I do Summary -> THIS MONTH it presents those amounts in an odd way:
"1 cup, 8 oz" instead of "2 cups" or "16 oz"
"3 cups, 8 oz" instead of "4 cups" or "32 oz"

Is this just a quirk in the app or is this deliberate for some reason? I'll attempt to paste a screenshot here:

Hey all, inherited pool with new home. Intermatic timer was set by previous owner to run pump (Hayward TriStar SPX3200A with Century Centurion Motor B2840V1, 2.5 hp, 3450 RPM) 9a-5p daily. We live in Texas hill country, pool is 20-25K gallons no spa and no pool cover. I was planning to reduce the pump run time to 4 hours daily, set to run 9a-11a and 2p-4p. Any reason why this reduction in pump time would or could be a problem, assuming that I'm keeping up with proper chlorine levels and adequate surface skimming (by the skimmers...not me!).

My plan is eventually upgrade to a VS speed pump.

Not sure how to add a video but here’s two pictures. Lots of small particles moving towards the skimmer end of the pool. Pool seemed cloudier than usual today. Cleaned my cartridges this morning with comb hose attachment and pressure on gauge went from 12 to 9 psi. Just checked about 12 hours later and psi is at 10.

Not very good flow into the skimmer (might be another topic for a different section) but hoping after a day or two things clear up.

Is this just normal small particles after heavy pool use or algae or something else?

Picked up this CYA from Amazon, and it reads 98% CYA Hydrate and 2% "inert ingredients". Is that normal, or should I send it back?

Hello all,
When I turn on my pump it works well with good pressure for about 5 minutes and then looses pressure. My water isnhugh enough an dthe pump keeps prime. Plead help
Thank you

Got the TFT test kit in today and ran the test. Results are below, from what Ive read looks like I need to drain some water to get the CYA down before I do anything. I am looking to go to a SWG this year and want to get the chemistry right before I do. Currently I am using a auto chlorinator with tabs...

FC- 2.5
pH-4.5
TA-0
CH-675
CYA-200
CSI- -1.00

Question. Where our automatic Pool cover is and the top of the tile liklne there is a gap. Do I need to caulk this area to keep water from getting into the space? Or is it fine to leave how it is. If I need to caulk it any recommendations on brand or type of caulk? Also there is some grout that connects the top of the tile to the bottom of the pool cover track. Should I clean that out or just caulk around it

Hey all,

We have a fiberglass spa with 4 jets and our pool house is about 60' away and slightly uphill. Last night our spa blower fell over. You can see in the pics that it melted the PVC and bent then fell over. It's a 2hp blower. All my research says it should only be 1hp. It also blew the water over the spa edge and my PB said that was normal. It's not. Any thoughts?

So I know someone will say this is a no no.. but when i had my electrician run the electrical for my pump I didn't have plans for any other accessories. so i have a single twist lock at the pump. I want to setup a low draw led light and the only standard outlet is accross a stretch of grass.. its the utility outlet or maintenance outlet. My question is can i use a splitter at the twist lock by my pump that has a Standard outlet and twist lock and use it for led lights?

I'm thinking its a really bad idea.. since i cant find the splitter anywhere and may have to make one up myself.. (that i really rather not do)

Hi Everyone,

Trying to get some expert advice for a large project decision. I have an existing 30yr old Gunite pool - no idea the quality of installation. It still holds water and no visible signs of cracks that I can see through the water. Pool companies are not afraid to renovate this pool from what they see however, no one is giving a warranty on that old shell…

The top coping area doesn’t appear to be too level but I believe this to be more cosmetic.

That being said, the equipment is all shot, the plumbing is flex pvc, the returns and skimmers are all done wrong etc….

I’ve got a few quotes on the complete renovation- I mean everything brand new besides the shell. Moving skimmers , new returns, new compliant drain lines, dust , tile, coping etc…. All but the shell..

The issue I’m having personally is spending all this money and not just replacing the whole dang thing. At this point, a new pool is about 30% more on the pool cost but 15% more of my total job (patio and water rock scaping etc).

The pool is approximately where I’d want it to be already - maybe move it over 10 feet if I could. But I would like to change the depth which I cannot do easily in the renovation as the company is afraid the added weight could hurt the old shell. Shallower pools would save me money and maybe pay for itself over time??

Question is really - should I be afraid to dump all this money into and around (patio) a 30yr old Gunite which I question the overall workmanship not knowing the quality that went into it? Or are these things pretty bulletproof and I should allocate that large amount to something else?

Thanks

Hello all! After years of fighting a pool (bad experience maintaining an old pool for my parents as a teenager), my wife and I decided to build a pool for us and our three kids to enjoy. So far we have absolutely loved it and had very little issues but I look forward to learning more about upkeep and maintenance in here.

My Mom just moved and her new house has a pool. The light in the spa is installed on the far side so that you see it from the house and patio. She feels the bright light is distracting and is trying to find a solution other than the the expensive option of moving the light. Possibly a darker lens or a light hood? Any ideas? Thanks

I'm trying to figure out how to use the Intex Deluxe Wall Mount Surface Skimmer (model #28000E) with Ultra XTR Pool (18ft x 9ft x 52in, model #26355EH) and Krystal Clear Sand Filter Pump (16in, model 26679EG).

Without the skimmer, everything functions normally, but once I install the skimmer and cover one intake valve with the flow reduction plug (it's not in the instructions, but the plug came with the skimmer and I figured it's what you're supposed to do), the pump pressure drops below normal (under the green zone in the pressure gauge) and I get a lot of bubbles in the leaf collection basket. If I remove the plug, the pressure goes back to normal, the bubbles disappear, but the skimmer does not suck much.

I read some posts on the topic and it seems like the recommendation is to use the flow reduction plug or plug one intake valve completely. I tried doing both, but after a few hours I got the low pressure error (error 90) on the pump. I'm not sure if this can cause the pump to fail, but I removed the plug for now until I can figure out the correct way.

One thing worth mentioning is that the I'm using a more powerful pump than recommended, but I asked Intex and they said it should be okay. I'd also like to understand the physics of it. Since the hoses connected to the intake valves have smaller diameter than the 1.5" hose that connects them at the Y-splitter to the pump, if you block one of the intake hoses, wouldn't it cause issues?

Any ideas?

Hi guys! Were in a heated debate right now choosing a new liner, the options are Gold Pebble and the Grey Mosaic, we want a turquoise colour, if anyone has any pictures or any advice that would be awesome, thank you!

I have a Hayward Tigershark QC that was purchased in 2016. I think it finally crapped out on me. It will power on for about 5 seconds then shut off. I can push the button under the switch on the power supply and power will come back on but the cleaner cord has to be unplugged and it often takes multiple "pushes" before it comes back on. Power will stay on if i dont plug the vacuum into the power supply. Guessing water intrusion in the cord somewhere is causing the power supply to trip? It moves while it's on for those 5 seconds. I've plugged into regular outlets and not gfi, and same thing happens. Any ideas?

I have the Taylor K-2006 kit I have used for years but last year I converted to Salt water.
I just had a thought that the chlorine test might not work exactly as intended with a salt water pool...
Is there any difference or changes I need to make?

Folks I've stumbled upon something that I now believe is more common.

Twice this week, and 5 times this season (maybe more), a deluge of rain hit during my SWGs 12 hour self check and it tripped the low salt alarm. Had I not caught it, I would have lost 12 hours of production until the next self check.

I've been paying closer attention this year as my first full season with the new pool and that's the only reason I've noticed. Last year I set the SWG to 60% in June and the FC was great whenever I checked so I didn't pay much more attention than that. It could have happened just as often but a few days or a week later the FC had built back up and went undetected.

I did not know this could be a thing, especially for those of us running 24/7.

While not an everyday thing, alls it takes is a heavy rain at the wrong moment. Given enough chances, it can hit a few times a season.

And it's a perfect example why I run hot.

Hi, The opening ring of my pool has got loose over time and I am now unable to open my pool filter for cleaning, . the ring has no grip over the filter as the teeth on the filter are worn out. Any suggestions?

Hi,
Recently stumbled across this forum whilst trouble shooting my Pentair VS pool pump.
Have owned this house for going on 24 years, always maintained my own pool.
Had my ups and downs. Game changer was converting to a SWG system last year.
Looking forwards to learning and helping others where I can.

Have a few issues to deal with and looking forwards to solving these with the forums help, advice.

I use hayward cartridge filter with a hayward power flo matrix 1.5hp pump and have seen an increase in the psi to 20 when it normally runs at 15psi. I see a difference in the water flow output also. I had cleaned the cartridge, even if it wasn't very dirty, and had seen the PSI return to 15 for a short time prior to this returning to the 20 psi. I don't want to continue running this at 20PSI and find out later that I had been damaging the pump at the result. Should I be concerned and if so, what can I do to troubleshoot the problem?

I noticed there is now a cartridge filter system available for pools. I currently have an 8 year old standard sand filter, with original sand, and a new Pentair Superflow 1.1 HP pump purchased last year. The pool is only 2300 gallons. We like the strong flow of the water, but the sand filter is difficult for me to open and maintain. I thought the Doheny's Pool Pro Deluxe 200 sq. ft. Cartridge Filter only would be a cool replacement. The pool is basically an indoor pool, with two users, an hour a day, and there is simply not much to filter. With such a small pool back-washing is a problem, as you can easily loose an inch or two... So my question is, will the cartridge filter restrict the flow, equal to or less than the current sand filter? Are there any drawbacks, or negative aspects of a cartridge filter system that I'm not aware of? I would like to have equal or more flow with easier maintenance. Thanks

We have black tar on vinyl liner. It is black spots all over the pool. We have treated it thinking it was black algae with no results. When you get out of the pool you’ll have black spots all over your feet. Any ideas what this is and how to treat it?

Does anyone know if non-Hayward pumps can be used with Hayward’s AquaPlus pool automation system? What models work with it? My old pump does and I’m shopping for a rebuilt unit.

My main filter (4 paper) pressure gauge normally is 5-10 but today shows about 2-3.
The water feature that sprays out to cool the water is also very low.
Last year it almost shot out from one side to the other. It currently is only a few feet.
Any suggestions?
Thanks