It is showing an error code of E24...any ideas?

Hello everyone,

been skimming the forums for a while and learned a lot! Been working to get our pool setup and running efficiently for the extended hot times in our region. Im a DIY'er by nature and love to learn! I do wood work, gardening, continuing my eduction in system administrations with an emphasis on enterprise level hardware, networking, and analytics. thanks for the read and look forward to communicating with everyone!

I'm picking up a few spare parts to have on hand for emergencies. Does the clamp ring on a Intelliflo VSP motor ever break, warp or crack requiring a replacement? Thanks.

One of my Globrite lights have come loose, I don’t have the installation tool to tighten it. Is there a way to do it without the tool?

Hi Experts,

I have a Aqualink PDA PS8 that controls my pool pump and other equipment, and it was programmed to run every day from 8:30am to 7:00 pm. However, recently it seems have some issues and what observed made me very confused.

Earlier this week, I noticed that my pool would started running before the programed start time and the date and time was reset to 2009. After manually correcting the time with the remote it could continue to run until 7pm, but the next day, it would reset again in the morning. First I thought is the 9v battery, even though we did not have any power outage or tripped breaker. I replaced a new battery, but that did NOT resolve the issue.

Below is what I observed so far after paying close attention to it for a few days.

1. When it starts running during the day, everything is fine, the clock is accurate and it stops at the programed time.
2. I am not clear when the resetting happens(seems random to me). I am sure it only happens during the "sleep" status.
3. Last night, I finally captured once when it reset. I noticed the "Auto" light was off and the "SPA Mode" light is on, but the pools pump is not running. None of the button would work, tried the reset button, not working. I cut off the power from the breaker panel, waited 1-2 minutes and turn it on, still the same, no button works and the SPA Mode light keep on. Below is the picture when it happens. I also tried disconnect the battery and cut off the power, it does not help. This morning around 10am, the pool starts running again, all the light and button seems working again, except the time was reset to 2009.
   
4. I checked the wires and did not find any lose wire or broken wire. Below are some pictures of what looked inside. The only thing I can think of is these two weeks are every hot here with outside temp 110+ F
   
   

Any suggestion on how to troubleshoot is much appreciated!!

Thank you!

Hello,

I’m in the process of building an outdoor shower made of cedar wood. The posts will be stained black, the horizontal planks will be stained brown. For those of you that have outdoor showers do you get a lot of soap scum on the walls? If so how are you cleaning it.

Regards,
Joe

Recent gunite installation, both corners on the side of the front beam are bulging out against the board/form.

Builder says not an issue, and common. Going to talk to them next week but would like feedback from group here if this is a concern or just a cosmetic thing that will be ground off/ easily fixed. Thanks!

Just wondering if I should be slamming?
My Water is usually very balanced, I only struggle keeping PH up.
My CC is never above 0-.5.
Thanks.

I am not going to finish the wiring until tomorrow because I need a lock nut connector for the right side knock out to run my cord through. But my electrician put an on/off switch on my post, which I like, but as you can see, it makes the wiring a bit crowded. I’m only gonna wire my salt water generator to the timer. You can see the wires in one of the photos - I’ve got black - hot, green - ground, and white - neutral, if I’m on the right track here.

My question is - do I run those wires into the twisting connectors right (circled in red)? I don’t want to hook them directly to the screws (circled in green), or do I? And any idea why there’s a wire hooked up to #2 position? Everything is 110v.

@ajw22 @Mdragger88

I've been using this site for 10 years now, thought it was time to set up an account. Hopefully not rushing into this too fast.
I first found this site when I bought a house with relatively older inground pool, and previous owner that left a few surprises for me. He told me he winterized it. Found out that wasn't true when next spring the pump was geysering water as I turned it on. The pump had froze and split in several spots. The local pool company quoted me $1200 to put in a new pump. The pool guy we carried over from previous owner said they were ripping me off, and he would do it for $800. I looked online and bought the same pump for $280 and spent about $10 for pipe and glue, and did it myself. He said my plumbing job was garbage and would leak in a few years. He was right, I had to spend another $20 years later to fix some pipes that were leaking. LOL. In another 20 years or so, I'll be in it for the original quote from the pool store.
Anyway, pool is about 30,000 gallons, depending on what mood I'm in. It is a kidney/peanut shaped pool, and without using calculus, I can't quite get the same guesstimate every time I try to calculate how much water is in it.
I opened this year with liquid chlorine (12.5%) from BJ's. I bought 4 boxes. Went back last week, and no liquid chlorine to be found. For the first time I bought Clorox powder chlorinator. It was a $129 for 27 pounds.
I'm not happy about it, but I can't drive all over the place looking for bottles of liquid. The clorox is always there, so it might be better than nothing. Now I'm trying to figure out if I should keep bringing my CYA up if I'm dumping this powder in.

Hi,

Noticed my pool on routine test was at close to 0 chlorine. its been raining alot so figured it might be that, but when I looked at my cell, there were hardly any bubbles showing. Its a aftermarket clear cell. link to cell below. I do see some bubbles coming out of the returns in the pool like normal so I'm guessing its doing something just not much. I did all the troubleshooting per the manual on my board and everything was in spec except the output board voltage. It is reading 17 volts versus 22-28 volts. I have no error codes on the display. The question I have is before I order a new board as the troubleshooting instructions say, is it likely the board or could the cell be bad? I'm guessing the unit would throw a code if there was a problem with the cell itself? Is there anyway to definitely isolate one or the other? Board number is E0261700.

Edit: Cell was purchased April 17th 2023 so less than 4 months old.

My M5 is battery powered wireless.

One side's drive will not go backwards.
1) in one direction it travels straight and both tracks spin.
2) in the opposite direction only one track spins.
3) the corresponding turn only works in one direction.
4) this happens whether you are in auto mode or remote control mode.

I've replaced every component relating to the drives: pullies, belt, drive motors (inside the motor box), etc. The only thing left to replace is the circuit board located on the underside of the motor box lid. Anyone have one laying around? I'll pay good $$$ for it.

Is there a pool robot bone yard anywhere? Any other helpful hints are appreciated.

A while back I was reading threads on robot vacuums getting stuck on main drains, and for some reason one of the mods or admins mentioned they used a solar-powered submersible pump to circulate water through a black hose for heating. Can anyone recommend such a pump? Almost all the cheap solar submersible pumps I can find seem designed for fountains and don't even bother having a standard hose connector.

My SWG pool has a spillover spa. My pH & TA levels are >8.0 and 80 as of today (it was 7.5 and 70 four days back), I have been constantly mixing 1 to 1.5 liters of MA every week and a mid week top up if TA reaches 100 I.e. higher than the acceptable maximum. I need to hit and MAINTAIN 7.6 pH and 70 TA but using SWG and importantly the spillover spa creates lots of aeration thereby increasing the pH? Is my understanding correct? But why TA too raises gradually? Is there a cheaper alternative or any other creative structural solution to reduce the effect of spillover spa?

Note: My pump was losing prime last few weeks, as it takes 7-9 mins to get the water flowing/moving. Increased the water level, it improved but still took 5-6 mins. Changed the O-ring of pump lid and primed the pump today. I don’t see any air bubbles in the pump basket. Need to see tomorrow whether the problem is fixed. Can this also cause aeration in the system and thereby increase pH/TA? The filter pressure dropped from 24 psi to 21 psi (my benchmark after backwashing) after replacing the Oring and priming the pump. Is this pressure reduction indication of suction side air leak fix?

We have been having some issues with our heater- this led to us realizing it would not stay fired when our pump was running at low RPMs. The pool company also diagnosed something else with it( which I can’t recall). We were out of town, so after we returned, we fired up the heater and increased the RPM. The heater is still cutting in and out. (That isn’t really my question here, although you may have a thought)

We increased to 2200 and 2300. Then decided 2500 & 2600 just to see if it was a flow issue. It didn’t seem to be. However, started looking at filter sticker. We have CCRP200. I notes the filter rates etc on the sticker, which I’ve attached. When I run our pool we probably operate around 10Psi. At 2500-2600 rpm it took us up to the red line. Does the whole red line mean clean? I just cleaned 2 weeks ago and I use skimmer sock. I feel a bit puzzled as the CC200 shows flow rate of 150 but 150 on my gauge is red. Do we misunderstand? Are we thinking about this too hard? Did we put in too big of a filter for our size pool?

Moved from HERE

pool512 said:

I have a Jandy Neverlube 3-port valve as a bypass for my heater (Raypak), and an Intellicenter (everything besides heater is Pentair). I want to add an actuator for the bypass, but I'm a little confused looking at the actuator options.

They all (Pentair, Jandy, generic) seem to claim universal application, though I've read conflicting recommendations (match the brand to the valve, which would be Jandy VS match the brand to the automation system, which would be Pentair).

Also, Pentair has their standard actuator and also the Intellivalve, which seems to have more levels of control (?), which shouldn't matter for the application which requires simple on/off?

Finally, I initially ordered a Pentair standard actuator, but was actually send a Tork generic actuator. The box said Pentair, but I found the Tork on Amazon for about half the price I paid for a Pentair (Amazon.com), so I sent it back. The Tork looked VERY similar to the photos of the Pentair, and the quality seemed OK for what seems like a pretty consumable product (lots of reviews suggest failures, regardless of brand)... I imagine they're all made in China anyway.

Anybody have a recommendation for the best option based on experience?

Thank you!

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That Amazon bait-switch happened to me today. I found two Tork actuators instead of two Pentair ones that I ordered. Other reviews (or was that you) described a similar experience. Already filed for a return. Jandy actuators are about $40 more than Intermatic, so I am torn. I may just get the Jandy, as adjusting the cams (which I will need to do) seems much easier on the Jandy.

It's been since 2011 since I last perused here, and I see many great changes to this website. I use to buy test kits here and see they are no longer being sold here, and would appreciate any suggestions on where to look. I am looking to test my CYA (all of a sudden my pool turned greenish and I have been SLAMMING with limited effect, perhaps I need to nail down the CYA).

We've used our pool company for opening/closing since it was built in 2020. This year, the closing paperwork has new guidance for gunite pools. They say to raise CH to 600-800 ppm and lower pH to 6.5. I think what they're trying to do is to (1) make sure there is ample calcium so that there is no leaching out of the plaster over the winter and (2) make sure the pH spends as much time in the 7s as possible before rising to its natural ceiling. However, the 600-800 ppm CH and low pH lead to a pretty strongly negative CSI, and are outside of TFP recommended levels.

Has anybody heard of this approach? I don't want to be stuck with needing to do water replacement to lower CH next year, and am concerned about causing problems with too low of a pH even if for a short time. My inclination is to instead raise my CH to ~500 (it's low right now, 250) and just take the pH to low 7s.

Just wondering if anybody has any suggestions on removing the discoloration? I read the information on TFP about stains but didn’t come to any conclusions. Has anyone ever heard of or used products from this website: Brown Stain in Salt Water Pool | Pool Stain Removal Without Draining

I just finished a SLAM but pool has always had the discoloration the lighter spots just occurred not sure what it was from but assume that’s how the liner is supposed to look. It seems worse after pool turned green this past month. Thanks in advance.

FC 16 post slam day 1
Ph 7.5
Cya 80
Alk 70
Salt 3400
28000 gal saltwater
Sand filter

What is the best brush for a gunnite pool with blue quartz plaster? Any recommendations? The pool builder gave me (really sold) a brush with white bristles but doesn't have and bristles on the side. It tends to rub against the sides in the corners. Just seeing what you fellow forum members use. I'm a new pool owner

We just installed a new fiberglass inground saltwater pool (Sun Catalina model) at our home in the Atlanta suburbs. It’s my first pool and my wife’s first pool since she has lived on her own. New to the site as well, and I’m really excited about what I have read so far.

pooldv said:

This statement is 100% misleading. It would be better stated as: Anything is an effective sanitizer when used with chlorine. Bubble gum is an effective sanitizer when used with chlorine.

Copper does not kill bacteria, viruses or pathogens capable of person to person disease transmission. Which is why copper is not an approved sanitizer for use in swimming pools by the CDC. Any pool filtration systems with copper is required by law to state that it must be used with chlorine to keep the pool sanitary. So, why not just use chlorine and skip the hassles of copper?

The only problem with using copper in your pool is green dogs, hair, fingernails and staining of the pool surface. Otherwise, it is fine to use and it does do a pretty good job of killing algae. But, again, so does chlorine.

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Old post but what he is saying about Copper is patently false. Copper is killing legionnaires and staph where chlorine can’t. All you have to do is Google “Copper Silver Ionization”.

The EPA says it’s safe to drink 1.3 ppm of ionized copper water.

This isn’t new technology, it was developed by NASA in 1960 so they could clean water in space and chlorine wasn’t used at all. Most people aren’t using them right because too much chlorine causes the molecules to oxidize. Copper ions aren’t green until they oxidize. If you buy a bottle of Colloidal Copper even at 10 ppm it’s perfectly clear.

Another correction from another poster, our bodies make H2O2 and Ozone to fight infection not bleach.

Also we absorb 8 times more bleach through our skin then if we drank the same amount of water.

This link is a press release from American Society of Microbiology from 2019 says “A new study has found that copper hospital beds in the Intensive Care Unit (ICU) harbored an average of 95 percent fewer bacteria than conventional hospital beds, and maintained these low-risk levels throughout patients’ stay in hospital.”

They want more copper in hospitals to reduce rates of infection.

These ionizers can work when used correctly. There is tons and tons of PubMed research supporting all of this.

Copper Hospital Beds Kill Bacteria, Save Lives

Hi all
Just had our pool redone about two months ago. Started noticing these small spots on the more shallow end of the pool but also from the deep end too. From what I’ve read, it may be in the actual pebble tech itself. Here’s the kicker, spots are showing up in the pool but not the jacuzzi. So, they didn’t have enough pebble tech to do the jacuzzi so the had to come back a few days later. A DIFFERENT BATCH OF PEBBLE TECH! The color is French gray.
We thought it was a plant of some sort however we have been running our pool vacuum 24/7.
We do not believe it is rebar. Side note, when we had the regular plaster before redoing our pool, we never noticed any stains. We have not planted any new plants or trees and we do not use any kind of pesticide on our plants. Anyone else got this problem? Things that make you go hmmm .

Hi all,

In dealing with a leak from a light I also realized that we had some granite shelf lift (hot tub within the body of the pool). Water was going under the granite caps and the adhesive had fully broken down.

My question, can I use tile adhesive from EZ Patch to secure it or would 254 Platinum work? I’ve got new granite cut.

Whilst I’m at it, I need to repair two tiles from a skimmer entrance. I assume the same thinset as above? Grout wise I’m going to go all around and once over where there are hairline cracks. Any suggestions? I recognize matching will be hard.

Our Pentair Prowler 920 stopped working. Had it about 3yrs with no problems. It would move about 3-4 inches then stop. Researched and took it apart to find the seal where the lever arm attaches to the servo motor is corroded. I believe this gets stuck and causes the cleaner to shut down.
It’s so corroded that I can’t tell what it originally looked like or what was there (see picture). Maybe some kind of gasket. It looks to have metal down in there. A small round spring came out also. I’ll need to scrape out the corrosion. Would anyone have a picture or know what part is needed. Or better yet has anyone had this problem and fixed it? Any help (to save me buying a new $400 motor unit) is much appreciated.

Mine has not only swelled a bit, the cycle button has became non functional as well. I could turn it on but the cycle button seems “disappeared”. Pressing on it just feels like pressing on flat surface. Only had the triton ps for 2 months.

Moved from here.

Mey_23 said:

I removed the back plate on the unit and left it off that stoped the noise right away. Seems like it has trouble getting air for the blower. Once I removed it it stopped. Hope that helps.

Click to expand...

I'm having a similar issue, reported over in this thread
Pentair Mastertemp 250 screaming/whining on ignite

I took the side cover off mine and it didn't help but putting my hand over the intake changes the sound. See here:
Login to view embedded media

Moved from HERE

Anyone find the reason for these rashes? Same issue with my pool. Also Tahoe blue plaster.

We are experiencing air leak, on suction side, I think. The filter canister seems to bubble with incoming air when the pump is shut off, and has to be bled to get suction at vacuum port.
Also unable to separate skimmer and vacuum, which is a new development. Pool store suggested the 3way

All 3 valves have had diverters and o-rings replaced, as a first step elimination.

There is a small dripping leak on top of 3way valve

In mid June we had a bad storm that came through and as a result we had all kinds of debris in our pool. Cleaned it, didn't think much of it and several days later pool turned cloudy. FC was registering on the lower side of the target, but it never got to a point where the pool had no FC. I started to slam the pool, couple days/week later the pool started to clear up and there was lots of brownish piles on bottom and even the sides had this brownish stuff laying on them. I continued to slam the pool for another week while brushing the sides and the bottom several times daily. The material would poof into a cloud when brushed. I completed an OCLT and it was less than 1 with no CC. Pool continued to get clearer and clearer but the brownish piles continued to show up no matter how many times I vacuumed them with my robot or manually. About 3-4 days later the pool started turning cloudy again and at that time I became concerned I had mustard algae based on what I've read on here. I took the FC levels to the appropriate MA slam level that next day for a full 24 hours and have continued to maintain slam levels for the last week since. I have vacuumed the brownish material to waste 3-4 times, but every day there is still more regardless of running the robot or brushing the pool. The clarity of the pool is no where near what I am accustomed to so I am at a loss. I have dumped a significant amount of chorine into the pool and just don't seem to be getting back to where I usually am at. The water continues to have a greenish tint to it and not blue/sparkly like normal. I have done several more OCLT this last week and am always less than 1 and continue to have CC of .5 or less. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

As of last night:
FC 10.5
PH 7.4
TA 90
CH 375
CYA 30
CSI -0.06
TEMP 83