Recently I've noticed that my pool filler will pulsate when the pool pump is running. If I turn off the pump pulsating noise will stop.

I've shared the video, you dont need to sign or anything to see it.

Sometimes I get my water tested at the pool store just to compare numbers. Why does the app suggest alkalinity between 50-90 and the pool store recommends between 125-150? Are those total alkalinity numbers or adjusted? Thanks in advance.

I want to plumb my backwash outlet with pvc due to location of my pump. The only adapter I have found is a female 40mm to 1.5” male. I also found the fitting that intex sells to clamp a soft hose, but I would prefer to plumb it with pvc. The threads on discharge are male. Is there an adapter for the 40mm male to 1.5”?

I am trying to decide whether it is worth it to redo a very large traditional cement and chlorine 65-year-old pool that has served me and my large family well for the last 36 years. This year the ancient pool pump motor started getting noisier and noisier, so it needs repair, but I have not been able to get anyone to come to either repair the motor (worn ball bearings?) or replace the entire pump. Also, I am having to add more water to keep the water high enough at a greater rate than ever before, so assume there is more leaking. The pool needs resurfacing or extensive patching, and the tile under the coping (which I did replace a few years ago) is crumbling away. (I have always kept it closed with an automatic pool cover, because of children and pets.) My spouse says that it is more worth it to just fix the pump and pay for the extra water. I, the dreamer, was thinking it might be a good time to put a smaller, shallower fiberglass pool inside the old concrete one so I could keep up my lap swimming and exercise into my extreme old age, should I make it that far. Then I would not feel guilty about wasting water. Downsizing the pool, in other words, since I can't bear to leave my house. My grandchildren now have their own pools or clubs to swim at so don't use mine much. But my first quote was over $100,000!! Maybe I'll need that money if I live for another 30 years. But if I die in just a few years, I will have had the fun of a new fiberglass saltwater pool that does not rough up my thin skin and water that does not break off my hair, and it can be used by whoever ends up with my house. Are other grandparents facing a similar decision? How do you decide?

I have an Intex Krystal sand filter. When I backwash I have to go between backwashing and rinsing 3 times, several minutes each. And it still sometimes shoots dirty water back into my pool.
But what’s more concerning is each time I turn the pump off and back on it shoots dirty water into the pool for about 5 seconds, even if it was cleaned 15 minutes before.
I changed the sand a week ago.

Does anyone have suggestions on how to fix this? I’m losing so much water backwashing 5-10 minutes everyday.

I have cared for my inground gunite pool with fiberglass wall for the last 20+ years. I even learned to fiberglass and patch cracks without any issues.

Hi everybody!
I am in the pool service industry and have been nearly my whole life (42 now). I work for a local firm that designs, builds and services pools in this area. I have worked in all parts of this company, but am now back in the service side training up staff after a 8-year stint in the design office. Feels great to be back in the field, but there is a good bit of new tech out there for me to get up to speed on so TFP is a great aid for that.

My name is Jim. I live in Goodrich Texas. I am also a disabled veteran and served 14 years in the Marine Corps. I have a 12 x 20 above ground pool. I am getting tired of paying out so much money to the pool store when I know how to do most of the pool maintenance on my own. I may be asking for help though! Where is the best plqace to buy Chlorine tablets?

I'm in the middle of putting my Hayward S244 Sand filter back together, and the last piece I'm struggling with is how to put the drain screen in. It doesn't fit snug on the inside, so maybe it just needs to be glued/caulked into it? I see the newer filters have a screw-in style screen, but mine is older (pre-2005). Thanks for any insight!

I've checked seal at pump trap and released some air at filter pressure guage. Bubbles come from the 2 of 4 returns closest to pump equipment. Should I leave the air release open till only water is spurting? Hope it isn't sucking air from underground plumbing?
Thanks for your input.

One of my neighbors picked up the Polaris and broke off the tab. That’s in the front, not the tabs that hold the bag on but the tab in the front. It doesn’t seem to have affected it at all. It’s still running around picking up debris acting. Normally I’ll attach a picture. What should I do, leave it alone?

Hi there, we are in AZ and filling our new pool and looking for reccs for the best cleaner (we avoided in ground system). There is a lot of discussion about robot vs suction side and i think we will go suction side. I see mention of the pentair rebel, the navigator (not sure who makes that), and we have looked at the polaris. Any advice for a novice? I also would like to see pictures of where you put the hair nets on the skimmers, I had not heard of that before.

Here are a couple photos of the system. It is a pretty small pool about 15x25 with max depth of 5.5-6ft, I think the baja step will be roughly 9" deep. We have universal mini pebble interior (AZ based company) in aqua azul without added materials. We have 3 short hair dogs who love to swim. We probably have a few days to decide which system to buy.

Hey, guys,

Hoping someone can maybe clue me in / validate a question I have. So we currently have the Pentair Intellicenter panel controlling almost everything for the pool. It does seem to "detect" the iChlor device but I know it's not reading / managing it in any way as far as I can tell. Right now there's only a power connection running from the circuit breaker to the Intellicenter panel which the Intellichlor power center is connected to. I see the Intellichlor *should* be able to connect to the Intellicenter COM port but I don't have any cables to connect the two. The only thing it came with was the power and then the cable from the iChlor 30 to connect to the Intellichlor power center. It seems from reading that I need to connect a green and a yellow wire from the Intellichlor power center over to the Intellicenter, but I cannot find any cables like that online. Does anyone have experience with this set up? Is it even possible / supported? Pentair's manuals for the IChlor 30 and intellichlor power center make no mention of Intellicenter, but I would have to imagine it *should* be possible as I thought Intellicenter was their newest panel?

Photos attached. We also have the Intelliflow pump already connected and working fine with the app / Intellicenter, so that's the one COM port connection you'll see.

Thanks in advance for help!

Josh

I’ve been following the slam process for 3 days and this shows up every day.

Ordered a Dolphin Escape after seeing good reviews for my 24 round AGP
Well they shipped me a Cayman by mistake, i emailed them and awaiting a response.
The Cayman looks to be the same with longer cord and programmable controller
anyone use this model on AGP
thanks

New gunite pool construction (11x29 rectangle with sunshelf) with pool builder in Florida. Excavation and rebar phase completed about a week ago. Days after, the earth caved into the pool structure. It’s rainy season here and the soil is always pretty wet in this area. I can only imagine the heavy rain and already wet soil caused the cave in. Pictures show evidence of the damage. I informed the construction manager from the PB and he came out and laid extra clear tarp down. It’s now been almost a week since this occurred and the PB has yet to bring out a team to get things back in place.

#1 I am very concerned about the structural integrity of the existing damaged frame. They mentioned this has happened to other builds in the area and they typically bend the rebar back in place and patch any areas that are damaged. Therefore, they are not likely to tear apart and start over. Is this considered standard and acceptable?

#2 Concerned about the lack of soil compaction that may be present once they try to put the earth back in place and pour the deck over it which could potentially lead to a sinking deck and more cement cracks than usual.

#3 The rebar descending from the sun shelf looks odd and rounded. Is it supposed to have a harder 90 degree turn down to resemble the final look of the sun shelf or is this rounded rebar considered normal in this area? The rebar throughout is also rusted, does it matter?

Feedback is greatly appreciated. I welcome any other concerns I should monitor.

Finally felt like I had the pool under control again. But today I got in the pool for the first time in weeks, and with a snorkel mask, and noticed a white powdery residue on the surface of the pool. Some of the plaster has been slowly peeling off but since this is an old pool we inherited with the house I don't know if it's too unusual. There are also little bubbles in the plaster some of which look white. When I got out my feet were blue. Also anywhere I touched or scrubbed the plaster the white powdery stuff came off. Calcium hardness needs to go up? Needs to be scrubbed and filtered extensively? Plaster needs to be redone and nothing else can correct the issue for the time being?

Hello all

First time pool owner got a 11 year old pool with a single speed pump and aquacomfort heater. The heater has not worked for us, displaying an HP error after a minute or two of running. After cleaning the filter did not work, I replaced the entire filter. This allowed the heater to run for a few more minutes (around 10) before the same error. I've cleaned all skimmers, the impeller and everything else I can find. There is ample flow to the jets in the pool. I figure because the heater runs linger now than before the cleaning of the filter, it is still a flow issue but where? Or could it still be a faulty switch issue? Any help!

How do I switch this?? It doesn't seem to slide very easily and I'm afraid to break it. Any help appreciated. Thank you.

I’ve been doing my own testing/treating for a few months now and feel pretty comfortable and competent doing so. I’ve mostly been adding Muratic acid to keep the ph down but recently my cya and CH have been steadily creeping up. I have a SWG so I don’t use tablets.
What would be causing my cya and TA to keep increasing?

Hi all,

Bit of a strange one. I had a very close lightning strike a few days ago. It damaged a lot of equipment, mainly computers/network equipment and my TV, receiver etc.
Over the following few days, I noticed many things in my house with a high pitched buzz/whine. Things like computer power supplies, but even the toothbrush charger and Nest thermostat.
I also had the same buzz but much louder from the breaker that my pool equipment is on, and from the circuitry on the pool pump.

I found that it seems to actually be coming from the pump, and is somehow causing that on all the other electrical devices in my house. The frequency of the buzz changes with the pump speed, and goes away when the pump is off.

So, I think the lightning damaged some circuitry on my pump, probably something that suppresses electrical noise from the motor, like a capacitor or something. However, it still runs fine apart from this problem.

I have a Jandy V5Plus HP. Does anyone know if its possible to replace just the electronics parts that may be broken without spending a fortune on a new pump?
Has anyone experienced anything like this before?

Thanks

The DE Filter pressure changes with pump RPMs, which makes sense. The question is at what RPM should I measure my initial pressure after backwashing?

Currently, my pump is running 20hours at 2000RPM, and 4 hours 3450RPM. (I am still new to the pool, and may need to adjust that).

I've purchased four Pool Blaster Max cordless pool cleaners in the last ten years and have liked the ease of use of them. However, the same issue recurs with each one; the battery after a couple of years will not hold a charge. I've set a timer and never charged them longer than four hours, but that has not stopped the issue. I did a little research and came across this little beauty and wondered if anybody has one and if you would care to either post publicly or PM me to share your experience.

Thank you in advance,

Otter

Hello,

As part of a backyard renovation, the hardscaper (who brought in a pool guy) agreed to move our pool equipment. The new location is about 28 feet further than the old location, and about 30 inches higher. In total, for the new location, the line from the skimmer to the pump (assuming the line runs under the pool) is 57 feet and the line from the intake to the pump is 44 feet. The old lines were flex lines. They extended them using rigid PVC and made new connections to the pump. When they left Friday, the pump had been primed and was running fine. Friday evening, I turned the pump off and heard some gurgling/draining from the filter. This is atypical for my filter, so I thought maybe the o-ring just needed to be lubed and reseated. I did that, then tried to reprime and start it again. Now, the pump will not prime at all. I tried adding water with a hose from the pool side, and I also tried priming with only the intake or skimmer open. I don't see any water leaking from any of the connections. When I turn the pump on, the water in the pump housing recedes, and I get a few small air bubbles from the jet in the pool, but the pump doesn't prime.

I can have them look at this next week but it annoys me that they had it primed and now I can't get it myself. Is there anything else I should investigate to find where the problem is? How did they get this thing going to begin with? Pictures of my equipment are attached. I have a Hayward Super Pump 700.

My T15 is 5 years old this season and just stopped making chlorine
Have it set to 100% because my chlorine is so low 0.5. So far no CC. Adding liquid chlorine to get it up

Cleaned salt cell
Salt reading 2800 an hour ago tested with appropriate reagents and I get 3500
Diagnostics read
+26.41v. +7.34 A
83 degrees F now 3000ppm

Would like verification that it’s failing and I need a new one. Thanks in advance

Hello all! I’m back after moving and leaving my beloved pool behind 2.5 years ago. We’re looking at installing an inground this time. Can I ask, how long did you finance your inground pool? Thanks in advance!

Our Jandy drain cap is cracked. I ordered a new one. Is it as simple as taking the old one off and putting on the new one? Will the entire filter be emptied? And then what do I do?

Hi! I am a about a month into a new above ground pool. We were sold a Permasalt system which is easy enough, however, initially our filter was hooked up incorrectly and I believe that may have led to the introduction to what I am identifying online as yellow algae into the pool. I am brushing 1-2x weekly and vacuuming at least 2-4 times as this is persistent. I am not sure what I can do using the permasalt system? Oh, I don't want to forget to mention the presence of a bug that swims around in the pool, (also identified online as a backswimmer) that apparently feeds on algae. I've only seen one so far but geeze, I don't want to share my pool with the likes of that! and where there is one, I am sure more to follow..... WHAT DO I DO?
Also, Permasalt seems rather proprietary with their chemicals and wondered if their are alternatives to that expense? I think I would classify this as an ionizing system ? If anyone knows I sure would appreciate any guidance. Thank you - ClareMelinda

FIrst post, first pool, etc. we know very little at this point and are starting to dig in and do more research.

We want to get “the attendant” for our pool controller: The Attendant and we shared it with our builder and he had never heard of this one since it’s much newer. He asked us whether this would replace the Pentair ez touch controller that he would use and I thought so but wasn’t sure. I do remember seeing a youtube video which said this didn’t have a relay board and it still was tied into something else, but I could have misunderstood.

I apologize if this question is horribly vague, but still trying to connect the dots at this point. Does anyone know if we still need any existing controllers that would go with this device, or would this connect directly to the pump, actuators, etc.? It says it includes “2 high voltage relays” with support for up to “5 low voltage relays” and “expandable to support 8 relay devices”.

Recently, I was sold CDS liquid chlorine that was 1.5 years old (ACE Hardware), which is well past expiration. Be sure to check before you buy. You can learn more about expiration dates on bottles here - How to Tell When a Bleach Bottle Was Made | Clorox®. Liquid chlorine/bleach expires after one year.