Old pool that came with the house, very frustrated, I was unable to clear the pool all summer, about ready to drain and gut everything.

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Srbinette

Srbinette

0
May 26, 2015
64
Berlin, NH
Pool Size
24000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Sorry for the lengthy post…

So we had some trouble getting our pool clear last year but after some struggle we got to a level that was swimmable, but not as clear as I would have liked. We ended up having our pump completely serviced changing out seal, o-rings, cleaning impeller, etc. Seemed to be running better at close but never totally cleared and it was late in the season and we had to close it up cloudy. Fast forward to 2023. We opened our pool later than usual in June. We had issues almost right off the bat. One of the pipes were leaking and ended up completely letting go one night. (The pipe that goes from the pump to the filter). The pump ran dry for several hours. We reconnected the pipe and started it back up, it seemed to be running okay. I was able to get my pool to turn blue but after several weeks of constant slamming, it would not clear. Then we started having issues with low pressure. We started getting a lot of air in the pump basket. Assuming we burned out our pump because it ran dry, we had the pump serviced again, all new parts again, cleaned the impeller, etc. Reconnected everything and started it up yesterday. At this point my pool is green and filthy as it sat stagnant while we waited for the pump to be repaired. There has been some improvement but there is still air in the pump basket. Even more so if I turn off the bottom drain and just pull from the skimmer. I shocked it with 6lb of cal-hypo last night (it’s all I had). The pool is still terribly green. I plan to purchase liquid shock this afternoon and continue the slamming process. I’m worried that there’s issues with the pipes underground since there’s still air in the system and we’ve ruled out the pump. Or maybe it’s the filter? There was one time that we started backwashing without opening the outtake valve (maybe 15-30 seconds max before we realized our mistake) maybe we cracked something in the filter? I’m so beyond frustrated with this old pool. I used to have it sparkling all summer but we haven’t been able to enjoy it for around 2-3 years. It’s been nothing but problem after problem. I’m seriously considering draining the whole thing and having it redone, new everything. 😩
 
Have you checked & lubed the oring on the pump basket lid? Its a common place for a suction side leak.
Can you post your latest test results?
Fc
Cc
Ph
Ta
Ch
Cya
 
Srbinette said:
Sorry for the lengthy post…

So we had some trouble getting our pool clear last year but after some struggle we got to a level that was swimmable, but not as clear as I would have liked. We ended up having our pump completely serviced changing out seal, o-rings, cleaning impeller, etc. Seemed to be running better at close but never totally cleared and it was late in the season and we had to close it up cloudy. Fast forward to 2023. We opened our pool later than usual in June. We had issues almost right off the bat. One of the pipes were leaking and ended up completely letting go one night. (The pipe that goes from the pump to the filter). The pump ran dry for several hours. We reconnected the pipe and started it back up, it seemed to be running okay. I was able to get my pool to turn blue but after several weeks of constant slamming, it would not clear. Then we started having issues with low pressure. We started getting a lot of air in the pump basket. Assuming we burned out our pump because it ran dry, we had the pump serviced again, all new parts again, cleaned the impeller, etc. Reconnected everything and started it up yesterday. At this point my pool is green and filthy as it sat stagnant while we waited for the pump to be repaired. There has been some improvement but there is still air in the pump basket. Even more so if I turn off the bottom drain and just pull from the skimmer. I shocked it with 6lb of cal-hypo last night (it’s all I had). The pool is still terribly green. I plan to purchase liquid shock this afternoon and continue the slamming process. I’m worried that there’s issues with the pipes underground since there’s still air in the system and we’ve ruled out the pump. Or maybe it’s the filter? There was one time that we started backwashing without opening the outtake valve (maybe 15-30 seconds max before we realized our mistake) maybe we cracked something in the filter? I’m so beyond frustrated with this old pool. I used to have it sparkling all summer but we haven’t been able to enjoy it for around 2-3 years. It’s been nothing but problem after problem. I’m seriously considering draining the whole thing and having it redone, new everything. 😩
Click to expand...
If your pump ran dry for that long, it is possible that the inlet plumbing was damaged from the heat and is allowing the pump to pull air in.

Six pounds of CalHypo just made the algae a little sick, but was so little it was used up almost immediately. You're going to need a lot more chlorine all at once to kill that much algae.

Sand filters and algae are not a good mix. Add to that your filter is very small for a pool your size, or any size really.

While at the pool supply, or wherever you are getting your liquid, get a small bag pool cellulose fiber or DE and add a handful to the skimmer with the pump running so it will put a thin layer on the top of the sand and filter the smaller stuff. It will need to be added after each backwash until the pool is clear.
 
Thank you. I put eight jugs of liquid chlorine in last night and another four this morning. Pool is still green. Zero pressure increase in my filter, it’s at 10 PSI. I will add DE today.
 
DE isn't going to kill the algae. The SLAM Process will.

You say you haven't been able to get it cleared the past two years, but your post history shows that each year you started the process and then gave up before you finished it. Why?
 
Srbinette said:
Thank you. I put eight jugs of liquid chlorine in last night and another four this morning. Pool is still green. Zero pressure increase in my filter, it’s at 10 PSI. I will add DE today.
Click to expand...
8 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine adds 33ppm fc to your pool - what is your cya?
Raising fc beyond slam level for your cya isn’t recommended, it just wastes chlorine & risks damage to surfaces,equipment, & swimmers. Going over doesn’t make it go faster - diligently Maintaining slam level does.
IMG_7221.jpeg

The slam process is not an overnight success- with a green swamp it can take a week or more even with diligence. But it does work if followed as written in the article & shouldn’t need to be done again if completed properly & adequate
FC/CYA Levels
are maintained therafter.

For a successful SLAM Process
you need to continue to MAINTAIN Slam level fc for your cya as often as possible (multiple times per day is best) until you meet ALL 3 end of slam criteria-

You are done when:
✅ CC is 0.5 or lower;
✅ You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
✅ The water is clear.
(Crystal Clear w/no algae dead or alive)

Do ALL the things 👇
*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide {light niches, steps (inside & out), drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, abandoned lines, autofill, overflow drains, seam flaps, etc.}
*If water can go there, algae can thrive there.
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.
 
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I have started the process every year for the last ten years. I was successful for 7, but it’s been a struggle the last three years. I get the pool blue but it never clears. I will say that I am incapable of testing chemicals every couple of hours because I am now a mom and I work 9-10 hour days but I do my best. I test 2x daily and add chlorine as needed to get to SLAM levels. Maybe it’s time to hire out for this. I also think I need a bigger filter.
Donldson said:
You say you haven't been able to get it cleared the past two years, but your post history shows that each year you started the process and then gave up before you finished it. Why?
Click to expand...
 
testing only twice a day will work it just drags things out. Especially in the beginning. If you can squeeze in 3 doses a day that would help substantially to gain a leg up over the algae.
(Example: before work, after work, before bed)Then hit it hard on your off days. As the fc consumption becomes less & less twice a day dosing it totally sufficient.

While the larger the filter the better, yours should still get the job done.
Smaller filters just need to be backwashed more frequently that’s all.
Let’s Be sure your sand is in good condition. It may be in need of a deep cleaning- this is something that should be done every season or so anyway. Its also a good opportunity to inspect things & ensure the sand is at the appropriate level.
Here’s the how to👇

Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter

This post will walk you through the anatomy of a sand filter, and then provide a video at the end for how to deep clean your sand filter. The filter used in the photos and videos is a Hayward S180T top mount sand filter. The images are of a similar filter. Obviously not all filters are...
www.google.com www.google.com

As I mentioned, you haven’t said your cya but if it’s in the 70’-80’s (like your stated dose implies) you may wanna exchange some water to get that down to a more reasonable cya level (30-60)
This will use less chlorine & also help dilute some of the organics in the water making the slam a bit easier.
Test results will help us help you get where you need to go.
 
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My test results are as follows
FC 25.5
CC 1
PH 8 (possibly higher but that’s as high as my test goes, I am actually shocked by this because it’s always low, I haven’t checked in a while as I was focused on FC and CC test)
CYA 40
TA 50
 

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Srbinette said:
My test results are as follows
FC 25.5
CC 1
PH 8 (possibly higher but that’s as high as my test goes, I am actually shocked by this because it’s always low, I haven’t checked in a while as I was focused on FC and CC test)
CYA 40
TA 50
Click to expand...
I added some muratic acid. I will check chemicals again in an hour or so. I also brushed the sides of the pool.
 
Slam fc level for a cya of 40 is 16ppm- going over just risks damage & wastes chlorine
IMG_7513.jpeg
* The ph test is invalid at fc levels above 10ppm & often read falsely high-
don’t test or adjust ph until fc falls or you risk tanking ph & ta.
While slamming be sure you’re doing all the things mentioned above (post #7) & get that filter deep cleaned as soon as you can. The sooner the better.
 

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