- Jul 21, 2013
- 60,152
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
On the panel that surrounds the CBs that you remove to expose the relays and wiring.
Board Repair
- Thread starter william13
- Start date
On the panel that surrounds the CBs that you remove to expose the relays and wiring.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 60,152
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I took another look and saw that AUX2 is 120V and does not have a LOAD wire. That may have been the disconnected heater where the wire to it was disconnected.
Aux 6 simply has 1 load out. I am wondering if someone took this off 3 and instead of capping just tucked it into 6.
- May 3, 2007
- 17,829
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Is this what you have?
You can change out the batteries without compromising the seal. Just remove the 4 screws in the back. I have done this on mine. There is an o-ring between the two halves which provides the seal.
Hayward Goldline AquaPod Wireless Remote | AQL2-POD
Totally programmable, fully rechargeable and not just water resistant but completely waterproof.
www.poolsupplyunlimited.com
- Jul 21, 2013
- 60,152
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Can you follow the conduits at the bottom of the panel back to equipment or do they disappear underground?
You can follow the wires from the relay to the conduit and then follow it to the device.
You can follow the wires from the relay to the conduit and then follow it to the device.
Can someone tell me what a Hayward W3T-TURBO CELL-15-SWP Turbo Cell is. Is it same as a Howard T cell 15?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 60,152
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
- May 3, 2007
- 17,829
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Not exactly the same.
Haywards newer controllers do not allow for generic cells. The new Hayward T-15s have an extra set of pins that identify the cell as an OEM cell. The SWP version does not have the extra pins because that controller does allow for generic cells. I think the ProLogic may require the extra pins but I am not 100% certain. However, the AquaLogic does not require the special pins.
We had a discussion about this here:
Failing T-15 SWG Cell Experiment
I am currently on my 3rd T-15 SWG cell for an 18 year old pool. The 1st cell lasted about 9 years and the 2nd about 4 years and just passed year 4 on the 3rd cell. I thought it might be useful to document this cell's behavior as it is going through the last stages of useful life. As time goes...
www.troublefreepool.com
This one also covers the issue:
Hayward T-CELL-15 (40k) wiring
Hey pool friends - Hayward Aqua Plus automation system with a T-CELL-15 that finally rusted on me and is leaking; I'm looking at wiring diagrams, troubleshooting guides and pictures online; all my research for the T-CELL-15 tells me the yellow and orange wires (going to the temp sensor) are not...
www.troublefreepool.com
Forgot to mention, I think there is a way to spoof the controller. You just need to connect the Orange and Yellow wires together.
Last edited:
This is interesting. Hayward security experts are pretty talented people.Not exactly the same.
Haywards newer controllers do not allow for generic cells. The new Hayward T-15s have an extra set of pins that identify the cell as an OEM cell. The SWP version does not have the extra pins because that controller does allow for generic cells. I think the ProLogic may require the extra pins but I am not 100% certain. However, the AquaLogic does not require the special pins.
We had a discussion about this here:
Failing T-15 SWG Cell Experiment
I am currently on my 3rd T-15 SWG cell for an 18 year old pool. The 1st cell lasted about 9 years and the 2nd about 4 years and just passed year 4 on the 3rd cell. I thought it might be useful to document this cell's behavior as it is going through the last stages of useful life. As time goes...
This one also covers the issue:
Hayward T-CELL-15 (40k) wiring
Hey pool friends - Hayward Aqua Plus automation system with a T-CELL-15 that finally rusted on me and is leaking; I'm looking at wiring diagrams, troubleshooting guides and pictures online; all my research for the T-CELL-15 tells me the yellow and orange wires (going to the temp sensor) are not...
Forgot to mention, I think there is a way to spoof the controller. You just need to connect the Orange and Yellow wires together.
Small issue related to a new breaker I put in. The back left of this breaker essentially is secured by a plastic tab that kind of grabs the left back and the right back is secured by the clip in the breaker. Well I do not know if I broke the little tab off or it was not previously there but now the breaker has some give to it that may be fixed when I put the metal front over it. But I was just wondering has anyone ever dealt with this and is there a jimmy rig. No pictures available tonight.
The correct part number is probably Siemens I0816ML1125CU, which should be on the part.
This looks like it would probably work.
It should be just 2 screws to remove the part.
As long as the screws are the same distance apart, it will probably work.
This comes with the metal box and you might be able to find the part without the box if you can find a part number on the part from the Hayward box or from the Siemens box.
Siemens EQ 125 Amp 8-Space 16-Circuit Main Lug Flush Mount Load Center Copper Bus E0816ML1125FCU - The Home Depot
This 125 Amp 8-Space 16-Circuit Main Lug Load Center features copper bus bar for excellent conductivity. It is designed for superb corrosion resistance thanks to a hot-dipped galvanized carbon steel boxwww.homedepot.com
Sorry I must have forgotten you explained this. Its just one of the tabs (plastic) but I guess the whole thing must be replaced. It will be a
good experience for me. Appreciated.
This question specifically is about a pentair VSP that shows evidence of leaking per paint peeling but seems to function and sound good. The question is simply: "new pump vs putting in new seals?" It doesnt look hard to do and the pumps I am considering are well over a couple of thousand each so I am doubling checking on this question. Is repairing a 4 year old pump like doing a heart transplant in a 90 year old patient? How do I access the viability and longevity of my current pumps?
I think I will take out my sub panel from my accessory panel that I have and transplant it into the main box. I can not think of why I need 8 more relays that that panel provides anyway.