Board Repair

[ajw22]

I do not think I am using near the 8 relays I posted pictures of.

You are using 5 of the 8 relays.

I have no idea what other features I would have thought of especially back then.

Have you been the house owner since the pool was built?

 

[mas985]

It might be easier to convert that board to a functioning PS8. It looks like it is just missing a bunch of connectors, the two power capacitors and K1, K2, K3 relays and a couple other components that would be easier to transfer than the chip capacitors/resistor.

 

[william13]

You are using 5 of the 8 relays.


Have you been the house owner since the pool was built?

Yes. It was a major house renovation with lots of contractors, dry wall, telephone, ethernet, security and I don't have any recollection to why I would have had an expansion unit or discussion of it.

 

[william13]

It might be easier to convert that board to a functioning PS8. It looks like it is just missing a bunch of connectors, the two power capacitors and K1, K2, K3 relays and a couple other components that would be easier to transfer than the chip capacitors/resistor.

I mean that crossed my mind. Also missing that component just to left of fuse, in between fuse and transformer. Missing flow switch connector local display connector , fuses, k7 , some resistors, missing 3 tiny surface mount resistors below k3, I could bake in oven to melt solder if I new how. This is a big job but possible but I would not know how to add those surface mounts below k3 on the main board as their is no circuit for them on this board

 

[mas985]

I would have expected the boards (sans components) to be identical given what is missing. Perhaps they are different versions. But you could try transfering the surface mount capacitor the blew up but those can be a little tricky too and easy to damage.

 

[william13]

I would have expected the boards (sans components) to be identical given what is missing. Perhaps they are different versions. But you could try transfering the surface mount capacitor the blew up but those can be a little tricky too and easy to damage.

The damage below u4 and U5 and above u4 was very impressive to the pcb board itself even those under $200 pcb board repair persons turned down the job.

 

[william13]

The PRO boards are backwards compatible with the AquaLogic controllers (according to Hayward tech) however, you may be missing some of the "features". Do you have wireless or wired remotes?

But again, you won't be able to program Pentair VS pumps. I can program my VS pump because it is a Hayward.

I never upgraded to ProLogic because the AquaLogic has pretty much everything I need and I did not see anything in the ProLogic that warranted an upgrade. Pretty much the same with OmniLogic.

I have wireless remotes something POD blue with dead rechargable battery but can not be opened unless you give up "waterproofing". I would only upgrade because more prologics are available with latest firmware. Often the aqualogics have real old firmware. I know I have pentair vs pumps but if they are at end of life I can get hayward vs pumps. Ultimately I am going to do a complete overhall of my system but until I know the direction I may temporarily replace the board with a Main or Pro until I can figure it out.

 

[mas985]

If you decide to go that route, the app I developed should also work on the ProLogic as the key presses for the local display are the same for both boards. They also sell wireless add ons (Hayward AQ-CO-HOMENET) for that too if you want to go that route.

 

[william13]

If you decide to go that route, the app I developed should also work on the ProLogic as the key presses for the local display are the same for both boards. They also sell wireless add ons (Hayward AQ-CO-HOMENET) for that too if you want to go that route.

Thanks. Very impressive app. So with this app you basically are making your Main or Pro boards act like OmniPL. ie you are adding internet connectivity to them.
Thats really cool. I have most of my questions answered except the Hayward Pentair VS pump issue. How importand or convenient is this to my day to day living? If I just temporarily use the VS pentair to go on or off at one speed would my relationship with my pool be a lot different. (poorly phrased but you get idea)

 

[mas985]

How importand or convenient is this to my day to day living? If I just temporarily use the VS pentair to go on or off at one speed would my relationship with my pool be a lot different. (poorly phrased but you get idea)

The only functions you would need for the VS pump on a daily basis is on/off and perhaps change of speeds although many people simply operate their VS pumps 24/7 and never change speeds. However, if you have solar or perhaps a heater, you might want to have the ability to change speeds dynamically when heat is called for but you probably don't have that now anyway. The Intellicomm add-on can be used to interface with dry contact relays in the ProLogic board but the combined costs might make the cheaper Pentair controllers more cost effective.

So with this app you basically are making your Main or Pro boards act like OmniPL. ie you are adding internet connectivity to them.

It adds WiFi connectivity, local LAN only, not internet connectivity. In other words, you can control the pool when at home but nowhere else. The app simply emulates the key presses from the local display unit in a Windows or Android application.

I had a wireless remote fail and instead of replacing it for $800+, I bought the WiFI/RS485 unit for less than $25 and wrote the app. It is more convenient than the wireless remote too although other family members/visitors will need to install and configure the app to control the pool.

It looks like this:

 

[william13]

The only functions you would need for the VS pump on a daily basis is on/off and perhaps change of speeds although many people simply operate their VS pumps 24/7 and never change speeds. However, if you have solar or perhaps a heater, you might want to have the ability to change speeds dynamically when heat is called for but you probably don't have that now anyway. The Intellicomm add-on can be used to interface with dry contact relays in the ProLogic board but the combined costs might make the cheaper Pentair controllers more cost effective.



It adds WiFi connectivity, local LAN only, not internet connectivity. In other words, you can control the pool when at home but nowhere else. The app simply emulates the key presses from the local display unit in a Windows or Android application.

I had a wireless remote fail and instead of replacing it for $800+, I bought the WiFI/RS485 unit for less than $25 and wrote the app. It is more convenient than the wireless remote too although other family members/visitors will need to install and configure the app to control the pool.

It looks like this:

View attachment 544948

I think it is very cool and if I replace my board with the Main or Pro I will give it a try. My main concerns are now will I have the capacity to program my PS8 with the knowledge I have so far. I have 5 relays being used and I am only certain on i on two of them and I must get past that project first.

 

[mas985]

If you keep the Main board, you will have 16 relays. I am not sure the ProLogic board will work with the PS16 expansion unit but it might given the RS485 commands are similar.

 

[william13]

You are using 5 of the 8 relays.


Have you been the house owner since the pool was built?

Yes I am using 5 relays I know: This involves 1. main pump 2. lights and (3,4,5 would be air pump, water feature, and disconnected heater not neccessarly in that order) I can probably exclude the heater easily by seeing which one of the Loads has an open circuit (because heater disconnected) That would leave just figuring out pump 2 or air blower) Is this enough knowledge to get most things working and then trial and error on last 2 relays. I am concerned this will be the hardest part for me.

 

[ajw22]

You have a 50/50 chance of getting it right. So guess at which AUX is pump 2 and which is the blower and set it that way in the CONFIGURATION.

First time you turn them on you will find out if you guessed right. If wrong then edit the CONFIGURATION and flip it around.

 

[william13]

You have a 50/50 chance of getting it right. So guess at which AUX is pump 2 and which is the blower and set it that way in the CONFIGURATION.

First time you turn them on you will find out if you guessed right. If wrong then edit the CONFIGURATION and flip it around.

Thats what I figured. So I think I will be ok and tomorrow or day after I will choose what systems or boards to get and I feel much more educated. Thank you

 

[ajw22]

I would assume:

• AUX1 - Pump2
• AUX2 - Heater
• AUX3 - Blower
• AUX4 - Unknown 120V device

Try that for the CONFIGURATION

 

[william13]

If you keep the Main board, you will have 16 relays. I am not sure the ProLogic board will work with the PS16 expansion unit but it might given the RS485 commands are similar.

OMG what would I do with 16 relays? So is that PS16 an Aqualogic thing? My wife seems to remember but is not sure some sought of landscaping lighting.

 

[william13]

I would assume:

• AUX1 - Pump2
• AUX2 - Heater
• AUX3 - Blower
• AUX4 - Unknown 120V device

Try that for the CONFIGURATION

Alan I am in a learning mode. What tipped you off or made you guess on devices for A1-A3 ?

 

[ajw22]

Alan I am in a learning mode. What tipped you off or made you guess on devices for A1-A3 ?

Typical logic for wiring.

Filter pump and lights get hooked up. What's next. Oh, pump2. OK put it on AUX1.

Then AUX2 is 120V and AUX3 is 240V.

Now both heater and blower can be wired for 120V or 240V. Blower is usually 240V.

If you can poke around blower and heater and see how they are wired for 120V or 240V.

Are you CBs labeled to tell us if heater and blower CBs are 120V or 240V?

Show us how your CBs are labled for what devices?

 

[william13]

Typical logic for wiring.

Filter pump and lights get hooked up. What's next. Oh, pump2. OK put it on AUX1.

Then AUX2 is 120V and AUX3 is 240V.

Now both heater and blower can be wired for 120V or 240V. Blower is usually 240V.

If you can poke around blower and heater and see how they are wired for 120V or 240V.

Are you CBs labeled to tell us if heater and blower CBs are 120V or 240V?

Show us how your CBs are labled for what devices?

I think I remember the heater was 240. Where would that labeling be?