Board Repair

Thats an interesting idea skipping the oranges all together! The part I though might be a voltage regulator by its looks sits right behind the yellow fuse and infront of transformer. 3 prongs
For the top orange and yellow to be in continuity does the K1 relay have to be activated?
 
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For the top orange and yellow to be in continuity does the K1 relay have to be activated?
On this site but another forum: ProLogic blowing 20A fuse. (prologic blowing 20 A fuse)

It talks about the need to activate K1 for yellow to orange continuity. I am not sure if this is correct. But I suppose I could try to activate K1 through diagnostics and check continuity Sorry for duplicate.
 
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I don't think so.
On this site but another thread it mentions the K1 and yellow and orange. If this is the case I will try to activate through diagnostics the SWG k1. If it doesn't work maybe a bad K1 (without visable damage). ProLogic blowing 20A fuse.
"prologic blowing 20a fuse" In the meantime I am asking for permission to return. Because new means new on ebay. This was new other ie open box customer return
 
Wish I could but I bought it as a "new" unopened board on ebay and "no returns" that was really dumb on my part and out 500+. Yes I agree there is a board problem and I would like to try to fix or I'm out of luck
That does not mean that eBay will not take care of it. They guarantee the listing even it there are no returns. Just open a ticket.

 
For the top orange and yellow to be in continuity does the K1 relay have to be activated?
Yes

The bottom yellow and orange are directly tied together.

Also not that the AquaLogic board is not fully compatible with the ProLogic controllers. Given, you received the wrong board, I would get a return from eBay.
 
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This says that the chlorinator has to be On, so I guess that the relay probably needs to be On.

In any case, I would return the board and claim fraud since it is clearly not what was advertised.

They are intentionally presenting it in a way to lead people to believe that it is a genuine Hayward part and that it misrepresentation.

View attachment 544699

Well good news!!! No not that K1 and SWG are working as they should. EBAY GRANTED ME A RETURN. I MADE THE POINT THAT ALL OF YOU HELPED ME TO REALIZE. Thank you Thank you. I THINK THE SELLER WAS MORE NAIVE THAN DISHONEST. NOW TO THE NEXT SUBJECT. WHAT BOARD DO I NEED? AND THERE IS ANOTHER SUBJECT. I PUSHE THE BREAKERS ON AN OFF SO MANY TIMES IN THE METAL HOUSING THAT ONE NO LONGER HAS A SMOOTH PATH AND I WOULD LIKE TO REPLACE IT. (Sorry about those capitals) Are they screwed in
 

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AquaLogic uses GLX-PCB-MAIN.

Can you show the door label with the barcode with the serial number?

Can you show a picture of what you are talking about?
Sure. First the Breaker. The I am posting images of old board and new board and looking foward to new purchase advice.
 

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You should get a few new CBs.

Current code requires GFCI CBs for your pump(s).

If the Aqualogic panel CB is a dedicated 120V CB that does not need to be GFCI.
 
Replace the breakers.

If the bussbars are corroded, you can replace the assembly.

I think that it might be Intermatic 12400140A Buss Bar Assembly, but verify to be sure.

If the busbars are copper, they are probably ok.

If they are aluminum, they might be corroded.

You might be able to clean them up or you can replace the assembly.

It is probably an assembly that can take 4 double pole or 8 single pole.

There should be a part number on the assembly.

There are just 2 or 4 screws holding the assembly in place.

The new assembly should fit in the same dimensions and use the same screw holes if possible.

1702743668450.png

1702744435219.png
 
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The correct part number is probably Siemens I0816ML1125CU, which should be on the part.

This looks like it would probably work.

It should be just 2 screws to remove the part.

As long as the screws are the same distance apart, it will probably work.

This comes with the metal box and you might be able to find the part without the box if you can find a part number on the part from the Hayward box or from the Siemens box.
1702744835761.png

 
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Thank you for that!
So I am in the market for a new main board.
I found this place. They are an authorized Hayward on line dealer and there price seemed reasonable.

You can see from list below that the retail price has a very large range from mid 600 to over 1000


Before I do this should I give thoughts to a whole new system? This system is fine minus lack of smart phone control.
 
I added smart phone control to my AquaLogic:


But it does have limitations. Currently only supports Windows and Android (but could support IOS/MAC) and only local WiFi control and not via the internet (off site).

Given, you have a board to replace, it might be worth it to upgrade if you have the budget.

Also, if you are in to electronics, there are several threads where people have built their own controllers.
 

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