Posts

Maggie53 · Jul 5, 2023

Drain plug leak the rubber gasket on inside is split. What should I use to seal it?

Moved from here.

sandymom4 · Jul 5, 2023

Hi, we installed a 21 inch round pool. It's about 2/3 full of water and we noticed an air bubble by 1 of the support legs. Can we pop the top rail off and push the air out without harming the structural integrity?

jdramm · Jul 5, 2023

Hi,

I have a pool and spa, separate bodies of water, using shared equipment.

It's all controlled by Intellicenter with the i8PS personality module. The pump is a Pentair VSF, with RS485 control. The pump is always powered, and speed is controlled by the Intellicenter.

The Intellicenter doesn't seem to handle switching bodies correctly.

Here's what I've tested / observed.

WITH valve delay
Moving from pool to spa works, but the pump runs during the 'valve delay' period.
Moving from spa to pool does NOT work. The pump is set to 0 speed immediately after the move from spa (which I think is correct) but does not get started once the valve delay completes.
In this 'stopped' state, the app shows the pump is meant to be on and running the pool.
If I turn the pool off and back on, the pump starts.

WITHOUT valve delay
Moving from spa to pool or from pool to spa works. Pump remains running.

The problem is that I need the valve delay to stop my spa overflowing. Each transition pushes a bit of pool water into the spa if the pump runs during that period.

Anyone else seen this, or know how to address it?

I have NOT tried powering the pump off the filter relay, as I'm trying to avoid all the 'lost communication' alarms (and it shouldn't be necessary).

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

John

capp2914 · Jul 6, 2023

Name is Anthony with zero plumbing or chemistry experience. Neighbor let me have his 18’ above ground pool equipped with a 1.5hp pump. I registered on TFP because I feel like it is the right place for a beginner and 1st time pool owner like myself. Also, it is here that I’ve received only CORRECT answers to the many many questions I’ve had. So thank you for the knowledge and I look forward to picking y’all’s brains, A LOT!! Especially now that my very first plumbing project was finished about 6 hours ago (hopefully) on the very same pool. I will warn everyone in advance that this could get interesting to say the least. I’ll let y’all know how the plumb work dried and also upload a few pics. Thanks again for allowing me to be part of this wealth of knowledge that is TFP!!

grsorondo · Jul 5, 2023

Super hot here. 111, 108...
Posted a question already. Thanks for sending me a welcome message. i have the Intex Ultra with sand/salt system. Replaced my intake with a fountain. Sooo much better. Working on the Hayward Skimmer now. Just wondering
if I can install over one of the intex holes so I can eliminate an open hole.
Thanks everyone.

grsorondo · Jul 5, 2023

there are two outtake holes already in my intex pool. can i cut my square over it so i don't have that lingering hole?

Moved from here.

joshuazzx · Jul 5, 2023

Dear Experts,

I have been maintain my 16000 gallon salt water pool myself and have a few questions below.

1. As the Chorine will be burn by the Sun and the Chlorinator is producing Sodium Hydroxide while generating Chorine, so the PH will always increase, hence I have to add Muriatic Acid consistently to control PH not being too high. Is my understanding correct?

2. If so, What is the typical frequency of adding Mauriac Acid? I found I have to add every 3-4 days. Is it normal?

3. If I decide to add borate, will that help slow the increase of PH?

Thank you

Rob with very high cya · Jul 5, 2023

My pool is in ground and in North Texas. It is about 14;000 gallons. The CYA is 180. I added Bio Active this past Saturday. The water is not as cloudy now. I have added fresh water, have not drained. Chlorine is low, algae is present. Would adding Borax affect the Bio Active?

amiller94 · Jul 4, 2023

My Intex SF70110-2 sand filter (purchased 2 months ago) began leaking out of nowhere. I have taken the pre-filter housing apart, and lubed the o rings, but it still leaked. Took it apart again and wrapped the o rings in Teflon tape, added a bit more lube, and eased the pre-filter housing back on gently. I was thinking maybe the o rings were getting twisted when putting the pre-filter housing on, but now I'm not thinking that's the case. It's leaking closer to the pump motor/controls (see pictures). I'm out of ideas and googling isn't helping lol I'm planning to call intex tomorrow, but not sure how much help they will be or if I have any sort of warranty. It's odd that it started out of nowhere. I had no leaks for the 2 months I've had it.

VinnyinNJ · Jul 5, 2023

I asked this question a while ago, didn't get an answer and let it drop but I just read a thread about CSI and a SWG. I always thought CSI was about plaster pool etching, am I wrong?

My CSI numbers are always less than -1. Is this something I do need to worry about with a SWG? I know my TA and CH are relatively low and figured that was great for scaling on the SWG. PH is within range, I do notice that CSI fluctuates with temp and I know water temp is a component of CSI

What am I missing with CSI? Do I need to even worry about it?

Thanks!

Hooty_96 · Jul 5, 2023

First off sorry if this is a dumb thread I decided to join because I would love some advice…
This is my first year with above ground pool 4000 gallons maybe, Steel Pro Max 15 x 42 pool for my son and I am being tested by the pool God’s! My test strips are showing same results almost always, I’ve tried shocking, scrubbing and shocking, swapped to the intex 633t krystal clear pump because the factory pump was not cutting it. Still the pool is cloudy. When I clean the filter, it’s covered in thick sort of, “grey” mucus type stuff, and the filter cartridge housing will have grey particles floating in it when I open it to clean filter. Filter will be completely covered in grey stuff after running pump for 8 hours, clean it, repeat. Same results. I’m using the floating things with chlorine tablets for chlorine, I’ve done my scale build up products, algae protector, etc….
Also I have attached photo of test strips, and the reply I got from the number on the test strip kit where you can send your test kit photo for advice. Any help appreciated!!!!

Bizill · Jul 5, 2023

JoyfulNoise said:
Yes. White flakes from an SWG are almost always scale. What else could the white flakes be?

Yes. Inside the SWG cell, when it is generating chlorine, the pH increases strongly due to the formation of hydroxide ions. The pH increase from the chlorine generation process will eventually be compensated for by all of the acidic chemical reactions caused by chlorine oxidation and disinfection, as well as the formation of hypochlorous acid from the dissolution of chlorine gas. But, in an instantaneous sense, the pH inside the cell is high. It can go as high as 10 to 11. This is why salt cells scale up - because the water that flows through them almost always has appreciable amounts of calcium and carbonates in it.

My suggestion was to simply use some diluted MA (20 Baume or 31.45%) to make the test safe to perform with fewer fumes. Full strength MA is not fun to play with outside of a fume hood.

It is possible to get all three scaling types if all three anions are present in the water (carbonate, sulfate and phosphate).

If you’d like to read a short, 2 page primer on the chemistry of calcium scale, this technical bulletin from Dow Chemical is interesting - Search

It’s not just the calcium ions that matter, it’s BOTH the concentration of the cation (calcium) and the concentration of the anion (carbonate, sulfate and/or phosphate) that matter. You need enough of both chemical species to exceed the solubility product of the resulting scale compound. So, if water has high CH, then one can keep the carbonate anion levels lower (as measured by TA) to compensate. In my pool I have had CH levels as high as 1500ppm but no scale...why? Because of I keep my TA at 50ppm (with a CYA of 90ppm and borates at 50ppm), then my carbonate level is so low that’s it doesn’t matter. But here’s another interesting fact - I have gotten sulfate scaling from my SWG cell...why? Because I had my pool tiles cleaned by kierserite blasting (kierserite is magnesium sulfate) and that added enough sulfate to my water to cause scaling (white flakes). The flakes, when tested against diluted MA, would not fizz but very slowly dissolve. If they were calcium carbonate scale, then they would have fizzed like crazy. So, as you can see, concentrations matter a lot.

It not usually hard to figure out why scaling occurs. In those pools that have scaling from the cell, even if the bulk pool water is “balanced” according to the LSI (or CSI, doesn’t really matter which you prefer), the water may not be balanced inside the cell. Thus, if the TA is a bit too high and the CH is on the high side, scaling is much more likely. Also, scaling is far more likely in a cell that is run at 100% or near that output than a cell that is run at lower output but for a longer period of the day. One way to compensate for pH rise inside the cell is to add borates to the pool water. Borates act as a high pH buffer and have their strongest buffer capacity as the pH nears 9. So, if enough borates are present, the pH of the water inside the cell won’t go much above 9.

I'm gonna have to really look further into this. Long time member here but have gotten lazy over the years. Now I have a SWG and get the flakes and have about 700 CH and have to clean my SWG cell every weekend.... First time the 30% vinegar to 70% water caused fizzing. Now it only seems to dissolve the flakes on the cell. I'm in Tucson as well.

PinDave46 · Jul 5, 2023

Hey folks, our pool is finally going in… I’ve got an Intelliflo VSF pump, a MasterTemp300 natural gas heater, a BioShield UV lamp, 3 MicroBrite lights, and the Intellivalves that will connect to the Intellicenter.

Can anyone help me with what breakers I need for this setup? And if there’s anything else I need for the Intellicenter?

Many thanks,

Moved from here.

Wiri0302 · Jul 5, 2023

johnsonps08 said:
I'm having a similar issue, reported over in this thread
Pentair Mastertemp 250 screaming/whining on ignite

I took the side cover off mine and it didn't help but putting my hand over the intake changes the sound. See here:
Login to view embedded media

I’m having the exact same issue and it goes away when I cover the same. Did you find a solution?

jesse-99 · Jul 5, 2023

Has anyone switched from Jandy's iAquaLink to Pentair's IntelliCenter?

Sometimes I get really frustrated with the Jandy phone/web app, and just with Jandy in general (especially their support and lack of good dealers/repair in the area and difficult buying parts online and self-service, etc. The whole "reach out a qualified Jandy service professional" drives me nuts because most of them don't have a clue what they're talking about and most places won't even return calls). Are there substantial Pros/Cons of making a switch from Jandy automation to Pentair automation? Curious who has done it and why, and if you're happy(er)?

I'm running a Jandy RS-P16 with the iAquaLink 3.0 web antenna, along with:

(2) Jandy PLC 1400 SWGs (not sure if those would work with Pentair automation?)
(1) Jandy 350k Hi-E2 heater (I'd guess this would work with Pentair automation?)
(2) Jandy Watercolor LEDs (not sure if those would work with Pentair automation?)
(3) Pentair VSP pumps (obviously would work with Pentair automation)
(3) Jandy non-VSP pumps (each turned on/off by a simple relay, so I'm guessing they'd work with Pentair automation?)

Looking for input, thanks.

Bob2010 · Jul 5, 2023

Due to the location of my equipment I am looking to switch from sand to cartridge. I am unable to deep clean my sand due to the location of the filter and no easy way to let water overflow the tank. Moving the filter for deep cleaning would not be feasible. Due to this I suspect with time I will have to accept suboptimal filtering or have someone change out the sand every few years ( in my area deep cleaning is not offered that I can find, only changing).

The pool is in it's first season of use. I am wondering without deep cleaning what would be a reasonable length of time to expect the sand to filter well for. Pool season mid may - mid October depending on weather and heater extension.

1) Based on the above when should I look at making the switch to at least make use of the sand before it becomes an issue. After 2-3 seasons?

2) when making the switch what size cartridge would you suggest? From my reading here larger always seems to be better, but I don't want to buy an overly large filter if it is not going to make any difference in terms of cleaning frequency due to the short season. I was initially looking at the Hayward swim clear 425 sq feet when browsing through some.

Thanks

ssherrin · Jul 5, 2023

My free chlorine will not come up. Everything else is testing perfectly.

masbem95 · Jun 28, 2023

We havd a 8-year-old 20,000 gallon salt water pool with an attached spa. We heat the pool w solar and although we could use our heater (Sta-Rite Max-E-Therm 400) for the pool as well, we only use it for our spa. Late last year something happened that caused the heater to cycle on and off.
I have the spa temp at 104F, starting at 72F it will heat for about 16-17 minutes until it reaches approx. 85F and then it will shut off, after about a minute it will ignite again. In the beginning it will typically heat for 75-80 seconds and then shut off for about 60 seconds. It takes me 30 minutes to get to 90F (before this problem I would have reached my set temp of 104F by then). I am able to reach 100F after 50 min but by then it is heating for 40 seconds and then shuts off for 80 seconds. After 1h I reach 102F.
I never see an error code.
The highest exhaust temperature I have is around 350F.
There is no rattling sound when I start it up, it sounds just like before.
I opened the casing and there is no debris, no rats nest and cables all look fine etc.

Any idea what I should look at next? I have read about the thermostat thing being corroded, but I am not sure how that would drive this behavior and not trigger an error? I am a newbie when it comes to trouble shooting heaters, so TIA for any help!

fjzsocal · Jul 3, 2023

I've got an RJ60+, and will be cleaning it soon. Once done, I'm planning to dump the acid from the cleaning back into the pool, since I'm always adding acid anyway.

Is anyone aware if there's any reason not to do this? Maybe I'm being paranoid - as far as I know, it's only dissolving calcium off the plates, and I don't see any danger with that going back in.

thanks

suprstrmis · Jul 5, 2023

got my water tested at the pool store today and i was surprised at how much my phosphates jumped.

almost exactly a month ago my i was at 490ppb and today when i checked i was at 748. is it normal to jump that high in 30 days?
in april i was at 146 and may at 237.

we have definitely had more swimming this month.
Our numbers were as follows
fc: 1.5
cc: -
tc: 1.5
ph 7.7
alk 84
hardness: 227
cya: 31
iron: 0
copper: .1
phosphate 748

i'm trying to understand when phosphates should be addressed and what to use because it seems like phosphate clearing chemicals can be particularly toxic. is it good practice to be using algecide on a regular basis?

bhuels · Jul 5, 2023

Hi I have a 27k gallon inground pool. I currently have a 2 Hp motor, all the plumbing is in 2” pipping, Hayward DE2420 filter that is bad and needs replaced. The filter unit is almost 10 years old, so I just want to replace to whole unit not just the DE filter insert. Can anyone recommend a Hayward De filter and Multiport model I should use for this size pool?

Bassgirl8552 · Jul 5, 2023

My Aqua-view pump has started leaking at a seam. I have a doughboy pool and was thinking of a Media Master sand filter. It would be the MM2400 model and I was hoping someone uses this model and can share about their experience with it. I saw some questions about problems but if there are some users out there who have one and like the filter, please share your experiences.

Thanks for the input.

Gjmueller4 · Jul 5, 2023

Sunday my pump just stopped working. Pump is Hayward 1.5 Hp. Turned on - no grinding. No buzzing. Nothing when you hit the on switch. So i took it apart and the wiring at the pump was fried to the point that the black wire had completely detached from the blade connector . Replaced the whip and all wires with brand new and cleaned it up and tried to turn it on agai. This time it buzzed loudly as it has in the past if a capacitor was fried.

While waiting on a new capacitor to show up I was messing around and I switched the power setting on the pump to the 220 setting. Flipped the switch and it started up like normal and sounded like it would when it runs properly. I only left it like that for 1-2 seconds then turned it off.

Does that make any sense that even being fed 110 if I switched it to the 220 setting that it would run?

dsemea · Jul 5, 2023

Hello all,

My original single speed pump died, and I replaced it with an Ecostar VSP. I got it all working/communicating via the data cable and all, but would like to get your thoughts if my automation panel is/was wired correctly for the equipment.

I previously had a polaris booster pump which I took out and am using as an extra return. It was hooked up to AUX1 relay feeding off of the filter relay.

I have a Raypak 406A pool heater fed by 240V off of the AUX1 relay which is suplyed by through the filter relay.

I understand that for proper control of the pump (per the addendum in other posts) the pump needs to be wired directly to the breaker. I saw a YouTube video for a pentair wiring and the guy wired it "directly" by connecting the output lines to the pump to the supply side in the relay. It's what I've done as well but am wondering if that is proper (per picture).

Should I install a separate GFCI double pole breaker for the heater? If so, should the heater be wired into it, bypassing the relays? Does anything need to be done to detect no flow (currently handled when filter is not on - I don't have a flow switch).

Any other recommendations around the wiring?

Thanks for all your help and useful info on this forum!

Mickey383 · Jul 2, 2023

I have a 11,400 gallon above ground pool with a sand filter. I backwash and rinse 1x a day. I don't let it get to the point that it tells me it needs backwashed.

I opened the pool on May 30th. Last winter it got convered when it was green. Since I've opened the pool the first 2 weeks were a loss. Then I started your SLAM process and things cleared up very well but I had a slight tint to the water. Aqua like. Not green but aqua color. Readings from a pool store said we had 0.3ppm copper and 900ppb phosphorus. I ignored these as they were low. Then after another week I put in phosphate remove and the pool became even more of a blue aqua... somewhat clearer. I then used a metal out just 2 days ago. Back to the aqua.

My pool levels are holding constant maintaining Cc and pH. The pool doesn't feel like there's algae. I've vacuumed to filter and to waste. Brush 2x a day.

If it weren't for the aqua color. I'd say I was good.... but it's still there. Finally I tried the mustard algae algaecide. No visible change.

I don't understand this color!
I need help.

dis737 · Jul 5, 2023

I have an old Pentair Minimax 400 (mid ‘90’s) and it won’t stay in heating mode.

It immediately starts up and ignites the burners but after about 15 minutes, the potentiometer dial starts buzzing and the heater shuts down. If I turn the dial hotter, it will typically kick on the heater again for a few more minutes, keep buzzing and then shut down again. The buzzing stops if I turn the dial back to colder. This happens with both the rocker switch in Pool mode or Spa mode.

My manual shows the whole control panel assembly as one item and does not list the pentiometer as an individual item. I do see a few vendors sell a Pentair potentiometer individually.

Any ideas if it is in fact the potentiometers that has gone bad or it it’s something else?

jehantqs · Jul 5, 2023

Somewhere I saw where someone in MI had installed one of these. I'm not understanding why they had to bring in sand lol. Anyway, besides and old carpet, what else can be used that is not terribly expensive but will last to put under the pool along with the padding that comes with it? Thank you. Going to be a challenge but i think my wife and I can do it.

jdsaengine · Jul 5, 2023

As the title says, we signed up for a new pool install. I've been on this site a few times asking questions for what seems like forever, but more like the last 3yr, so its been a long time.
Some of the info for what we are getting
Inground fiberglass, 10,000 gal, Imagine Freedom pool with 8' splash pad
Heat pump heater, variable speed pump, cartridge filtration
Salt water
Auto cover
Start pool construction Sept. 1 with about 8 week construction.
Obviously, no swimming this year, but primed and ready come next spring, when at that time I will be here daily trying to figure out the pool chemistry. Will be ordering test kit you guys have suggested and doing the BBB chemical thing.
Should be interesting

Fathead657 · Jul 5, 2023

Found your site while researching test kits and some issues Im having with my pool while its being installed.

I have several concerns about things that have been done havent been done and things I think should be done.

Which forum should I ask about my concerns?

Sheaharrison · Jul 5, 2023

Hi new here but not new to pools. I have had my in ground pool for 18 years and have always maintained it myself with no problems other than an algae bloom but I am at my wits end and want to just throw my hands up!! I have a 20x40 36000 gallon vinyl pool with a SWG. We redid our pool last year, replaced white metal coping with travertine coping, replaced all the concrete and added some more patio space to get rid of so much grass, and put in a new liner. Sometime during last fall/winter my husband, who might I say does nothing with the pool doesn’t even swim in it, saw a tik tok and thought putting pieces of copper in the skimmers would help with algae. Never told me anything about it but this is where I think my problem is stemming from!! We had a super hard freeze for Mississippi and not at home and our sand filter froze and split down the side. I decided to wait and replace it when I opened the pool for this season. The pool was green at the beginning of spring so i did what i always do and got all the debri i could see out with a leaf eater that attaches to a hose, added a floc I used revive, vacuumed the pool and then shocked! When the pool cleared i had some light spot stains here and there and my pool steps and skimmers were stained!! All I can think of is when I shocked the metals chelated and deposited on the liner and plastic. I scoured the internet looking for a solution and tried some stain removers that didnt work and then did the culator metal remover kit. I bought 2, followed the directions and it worked like a charm the stains disappeared almost immediately amd stayed that way for about 2 weeks but have come back with a vengeance and its getting worse by the day!!! I am close to the end of the 30 days I am supposed to wait before I raise my chlorine levels above 1 ppm like the directions say so right now my chlorine is around 1ppm, my ph and alkalinity are w/in normal range, my hardness is reading around 160 so a little low. I do have the little culator pod in my main basket by the pump. We don’t have well water but have had problems with some step stains in the past but they have always cleared up on there own with just balancing the pool and i would spot clean with a magic eraser. The step stains are awful now. i think its changed the color of my liner. i have a royal blue liner and my water is always super blue but it is a different shade of blue if that makes sense, looks like a dingy blue to me. The majority of the liner stains are around the seams where the walls meet in the shallow and where the slope meets the wall and floor in the deep end with some small spots here and there. Then i have this huge stain under the return jet in the deep end. I will post pics. Any help on how to get rid of them for good would be greatly appreciated!!! It is sooooo hot here and it has rained almost every day for two weeks. I really need to shock and get the chlorine up before i have a major algae bloom but im scared to shock and make it even worse. Please help!!!

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Drain Plug leaking on ABG pool

Air bubbles

Intellicenter with pool, spa, valve delay not turning pump back on

Hello from sweltering Sanford Florida!

Hello from Central Cal

Intex Pool set up

Do I have to consistently add Muriatic Acid to balance salt water pool PH level?

Lower CYA and fighting algae.

STUMPED Intex SF70110-2 sand filter leaking

Attachments

Question About CSI

Understanding test strips and why can I not get my pool to not look cloudy.

Attachments

White flakes in pool from SWG / Phosphates : YouTube Video

IntelliCenter Installation

Another Pentair heater makes a high pitched noise.

Anyone switch from Jandy's iAquaLink to Pentair's IntelliCenter?

Looking to switch form sand to cartridge. Timing and Sizing.

Free chlorine will not come up.

Sta-Rite Max-E-Therm 400 cycling on and off, no error code

discarding acid after cleaning salt cell

How fast should phosphates rise? Confused when I need to address the issue

What Hayward DE Filter and Multiport

Media Master sand filter 24"

Strange pump electrical question

Attachments

Hayward Aquaplus wiring for Ecostar VSP

Attachments

Aqua color

Minimax 400 potentiometer buzzing shutting heater off

Intex 12x 24 x 52 Installation in MI

Took a while but signed up for a pool install

Hello from Indiana

Need Help with Stains!!!

Attachments

Filter