Any ideas on what kind of fence I could put up to prevent little kids from falling in the pool but still be able to sit on the patio and have good visibility of the pool? I'm not a big fan of the fencing that attaches to the pool wall. I'm thinking something like this picture with a small rolling gate for now until my kids are old enough that I don't have to worry about them falling in. Hopefully someone has a good idea. Thanks!

About to select the finish for our pool.
Love the 2 pics I found online of the PS bordeaux finish but really..... Only 2 pics??

I welcome any other pics of the bourdeax finish OR a response if you like the finished product or would have chose a different color!!

Can the Taylor k-2006 chlorine test kit be used with saltwater pools? Is the only difference that it doesn’t measure salt levels? Thank you!

We are in NC and are doing a geometric pool and spa. Our yard definitely gets a good amount of direct sun and full shade throughout the day. I am so lost with regards to what finish color to choose. We love the blue/green waters of the Mediterranean Sea so Seafoam Green and Bordeaux seem appealing but I can't find photos outside the ones on the Pebbletech website anywhere. If anyone has examples of these or just general suggestions on what colors we should pick it would be much obliged!

I’m currently running at 6 psi, normal operation is 12. I’m seeing flow through the salt cell, and the pump basket is clear. I’m getting reasonable pressure from the jets. What should I troubleshoot to see where a problem might be?

is there any advantage of picking a blue-based stonescapes pebble color (like aqua white) vs a gray one (like French gray)? Will one be more prone to looking dirty over time?

Our old pool at a previous house was white plaster and had all sorts of stains after a decade (was like this when we moved in) and I may be traumatized from that. I’ve never had a pebble finish pool before though so I’m not sure how different it’ll be. I understand with the proper care this shouldn’t happen to any pool, but I’m thinking worse case.

Well, we got 3 inches of rain in under an hour last night. My crystal clear pool now looks like this from runoff from the yard. What's the best way to deal with this? Keep the pump running 24/7 and the chlorine levels at shock levels or drain and refill?

AGP, Heatpump. I just opened the pool and heat pump has a Flo error.

It's a pressure switch sensor. To Troubleshoot I did a test jumper on the board, it turned on. I pulled the feeder hose for the pressure switch and water came out. Both good signs and initially leads me to a bad pressure switch.

But then I noticed my bypass valve seemed to be open. I think, this shouldn't be open unless there is excessive pressure going into the heater. I've never noticed previously if it was open or completely shut.

I do keep the inlet and outlet open when I remove my equipment for the winter. Maybe something got in there, even an animal or something.

I don't know what I should do. Maybe hook the plumbing in reverse to try and flush anything out. I don't even know if anything is there just guessing, still could bee a bad pressure switch.

I do know if u turn the shutoff valve on the output side in the heater it turns on. Which makes sense as pressure increases inside the heater activating the pressure switch.

Any ideas on where to go with this?

My CYA slowly dropped to 60 with dilution and I noticed I needed to turn the output up a little on my SWG to maintain my FC. I did raise there CYA back to 75 (and may go a little more just to see what happens) and I was able to turn the output down. I know my chlorine use depends on weather, temp and pool load. Just curious if anyone else sees this correlation. This is my first year with a SWG and I love it! I don't miss all of the little bleach spots on my clothes.

Ive been noticing a black ring in my skimmer, and my pH levels are kinda unstable. I live in northern Maryland/ anyone else noticing issues?

Hello, I currently have a Hayward Super Pump with a single speed 1.1 THP motor and I am looking to upgrade the motor to the Century VS EVC165 motor which is 1.65 THP. Are there any concerns with using this increased horsepower with the S200 sand filter?

I was watching a pump replacement video and it was mentioned that too much horsepower could damage the laterals but I'm unable to find anything else that confirms this.

Thanks!

Hi my spa is leaking on the outside rocks of the spa causing the spa to completely drain of water anyone know a route I can take to find the exact location of leak and fix it? Thanks

27 X 52 round pool. liner coming from pool warehouse. 25 mil unibead. boy they sure try to confuse you with dimensions in mil and gauge.

Having someone install it, which was tough to find as we are out of the city.

anything I should prepare for? I have ordered a new skimmer basket and nozzle.

also what is the pool liner lifetime out there?

I am currently in a dilemma and am wondering about what would be the next best HT/Spa/Pool test kit next to the Taylor TF pro salt or the K2006C that would work with similar or close to the same results. These kits are far and few between and hard to get a hold of in Canada, as i am unable to find any and have reached out to Taylor but have not heard back yet. Anyone with some solid advice and links would be much appreciated as i do not want to purchase an inferior product and will not rely on strips either, as i like to test my water regularly and know what i need or do not need. TIA

My pool has a SWCG and the pool is open from May-October. In every previous year as the summer progresses the pH creeps up and I have to add MA. This year that has not happened, it has gone down a touch since my pool was uncovered a couple of months ago. Anyone have an idea why this would be? The only reason that I can think of is that we have had more rain than usual and I have not had to add water - after running the pool with water over the skimmer I actually pumped some water out. Could it be acidic rain decreasing my pH.

I am in Phoenix with a 16,000 pool
Found TFP several years ago and shifting from tabs to liquid chlorine solved massive CYA driven problems. Aside from being a pain, the cost of the water needed to refill a pool after draining here in Phoenix is very high (~$200-250)
While I understand and agree with the basic pool chemistry points, the cost of liquid chlorine has become prohibitive. I get mine from a distant pool store where liquid chlorine is its major product. But it now costs $7.50/gallon. In the three months when daytime temperatures are in triple digits (often above 110F) I need to use an absolute minimum of a half gallon every evening, and really ought to be adding a full gallon per day. This seems consistent with the usage other users in very hot areas have reported. Over that three month period a gallon per day would cost $675. This is a lot more than the cost of tabs plus an annual drain and refill due to high CYA. And of course this doesnt include the chlorine costs in other months when temperatures are merely 90F.
Found a 2015 threat when a member from Vegas raised the same question but was basically blown off with a "liquid chlorine is always better" reply. Which for the vast majority of members would be accurate. But it seems that if liquid chlorine cost skyrockets with very high temperatures it might not be for everyone.
Is there some major problem with this cost analysis?

My pump runs 23 hours per day. Last night I had my deck jets going all night hoping the aeration would cool the pool. My pool was at 93 degrees at sunset and only dropped to 91 by sunrise. The low air temp was 80 last night / this AM.

I’ve been having the deck jets still going all day and the pool is now at 94 degrees and the outside temp ranges from 90-94 depending on the weather app I’m looking at. My pool isn’t deep with minimal shade but it is white. Any ideas short of putting in a chiller? I’m about to start some yard work and there isn’t anything refreshing about jumping in a 94 degree pool afterwards. This is my third summer with the pool and we have never had this issue. Granted the weather lately has been hotter than usual here, but I don’t recall my pool ever getting over 90 degrees. 2 days ago, it hit 96 degrees in the afternoon.

I was nervous about my off center pavers and I guess it turns out that concern was valid. I see this morning that the paver has sunk at the edge the leg was sitting on and lifted on the other side. The edge of the pool is bowing outward somewhat.

Can anyone please advise how bad this is? Is it a leave it alone and reset at end of the season type thing or more dire of a situation requiring immediate correction?

I am having a very similar problem as described by NC Girl. It took about 3 years from my installation in late 2019 for the problem to arise. The Open Flue Sensor error occurs intermittently and the heater will not work when it occurs. Anyone else have any solutions other than to check every wire socket connection?

Moved from here.

Hey y'all,

Confused on instructions. They to use 7.5ml and 15ml mark for tf pro view tube, and 15ml and 30ml for tf100. What is this even talking about? There is no tube marked with 7.5ml.

Also, the red capped cya mixing bottle has no markings on it at all. Directions say to fill red capped cya bottle to 7.5 mark, and the 15ml mark with pool water. Again, no markings on the bottle at all.

Am I missing something?

Good afternoon, I just joined to see if I could get help with CYA problem. My location N. Texas, pool size approximately 20,000 gallons FW in ground with spa, Jandy equipment. I had this problem few years back and dumped water as recommended. I use Sams club tabs and shock and an algaecide.
Now to the problem: week ago added shock in preparation for kids and grandkids and was reading an 8ppm chlorine, 7.2 ph, 150 TA. While swimming with goggles pool slightly cloudy. After 3-4 days everyone went home, check chlorine level and 0-ppm. I had a sample analyzed at local big name store and following numbers:
FC-2.83, TC-2.83, ph-7.2, TA-61, calcium-436, ***CYa-151, copper-.5, phosphates-364, TDS-3200.
At their recommendation dumped water and refill.
Added 8000 gallons water ran pump full day and retest just few minutes ago with big store.
Fc-.22, TC-.22, ph-7.4, TA-46, Calcium-311, ***CYa-167, copper-.6, phosphates-264, TDS-1500.
I ran my own test and have 0 chlorine, ph7.4, TA-100, CYA over 100.. Taylor K2006 test kit.
Their recommendation, dont worry with CYa now that they have no idea why CYA went up instead of down after dumping that much water, just add 18 lbs baking soda and bring TA up and then use non binding shock.
I am so sorry this was long story, but its a true one. I like taking care of my own stuff but apparently I need better help than what I have been receiving. Any suggestions are welcome

The suggested 'Ideal' and 'Recommended' values don't agree with the Hayward recommendations. How do I change them in Pool Math app?

Hi all! My wife and I are getting closer to picking a builder and starting our first pool build. We considered two years ago but lead times were too far away and our kiddos were still young enough that we were fine waiting a bit. Anyhow, we've had a few builders out to the house (some fiberglass and some vinyl). Currently leaning towards vinyl and we received what I would call a ballpark summary of build price and job details. I was hoping I could post the stats/specs and get some feedback from those smarter than me for things to add/subtract and more detail to ask of the builder. The guy we like has been building pools for 40 years but technology is not his strong suit...I received this "bid" written out on a legal pad after a site meeting this past Sunday.

-18x36 rectangle vinyl pool - was told they use Cardinal Systems for pool walls (haven't decided exact depths but not doing deep end) *approx 21,000 gallons*
-full-width tanning ledge approx 18x6 dimensions w/vinyl over stairs
-Tara pool liner 27mil
- autocover (pricey!)
-Pentair electric h/c (Ultratemp 120)
-Pentair TR60 sand filter
-Pentair 1.5HP variable speed pump
-saltwater kit (no idea what this line is but possibly SWG?)
-Dolpin S-200 robotic pool cleaner
-3 white microbrite LED lights
-2 main drains
-2 skimmer boxes
-3 returns
-concrete cantilever ledge/coping
-test kits, hoses, vaccums, startup chemicals, etc

Thats a quick regurgitation of the "bid" we were sent today. Would really appreciate any feedback or questions I should be asking!! I joined this site two years ago and have enjoyed reading all that everyone shares. Super nice to have a community and resource like TFP with people willing to share and help out!

I may have started in the wrong forum.
As in I have an AGP with only 8000 gallons in a 24 x12 intex pool. It appears most have larger IGP. I upgraded to a larger sand filtered pump than the size that came with it. I followed all directions on the install and setup of pump with backwash and rinse first before filtering.
A couple quick questions. The pool store I went to check my water first week said no calcium in an AGP with Vinyl liner. Then the next week they said you need to use Calcium primarily for the pump. They also wanted to use a phosphate remover requiring two backwashes. I was surprised this was needed for a brand new sand filtered pump. I need to know if this is a store I can trust for pool chemistry or if these are just $$ grabbing fluff. Thanks, Larry

I went to connect my IC40 SWG today and was confused when I saw the wiring from the PB/electrician. It took me awhile to figure everything out and for the most part it seems to make sense except for how the Intelliflo3 pump is wired to the relay. I attached an image showing the wiring of the relay for the main filter pump. Unfortunately the electrician used red wire for everything. He also has my booster pump on my main filter relay (not his fault, the booster pump was originally going to be used as my filter pump and we switched it mid job.)

But for some reason, the electrician has the breaker powering the LOAD terminals (#2 and #4) on the relay. The Intellicenter article here says this is a common mistake, but doesn't really expand on this. Terminals #1 and #3, which would typically be energized are NOT connected to the breaker. I That said, everything works. I can turn the pump on and off, I have control of the Intelliflo, pool lights all work (aux #1-3), landscape lighting (aux #6 and 7) also works and can be controlled by the Intellicenter.

Can someone advise me what to do next? Since everything is working, should I not mess with it? Can someone explain WHY the electrician wired it this way? Finally, will my IC40 work the way it is wired? It seems to me that the line and load terminals on the relay are reversed, and indeed, you can see in the photo below that the yellow and white wires from the SWG transformer are going to the LINE side terminals (where they should typically go to the LOAD side terminals, #2 and #4.) So, should I just connect the 4 pin SWG power cable and give it a shot? Or do I need to fix this wiring before firing up the SWG?

Thanks!

I am following the TFP guidelines this year as far as chlorine levels directly correlating to my CYA levels. Everything is balanced perfectly at the moment as follows:

pH 7.6
FC 7.0
CC 0.0
TA 110
CYA 45-50 (my best guess, it's so subjective this thing "when the black dot disappears")
CALCIUM 210

I test daily and I use liquid chlorine to keep my free chlorine round about 7ppm. It seems that I need to add 1 quart of liquid chlorine (12.5%) every day for my 21,000 gallon pool. Usually I test when I get home from work and the FC reads between 5.2-5.6 or thereabouts everyday so 1 quart usually gets it to 7 or just above. I usually add the chlorine around 7-8pm and let the pool run for a couple of hours more before I shut it off for the night. Then I turn it back on around 8am.

Once a week or less I need to add some muriatic acid (about 16oz split up into two doses) to keep the pH in check. After a few weeks I might add a little baking soda (2-3lbs) to bump the TA back up, and then repeat.

So my question is, does this sound about right? Keeping the chlorine that high each and every day? I am not damaging my pool liner with this consistent higher levels of chlorine? I read that CYA stablizes that specific amount of chlorine so that it shouldn't do any damage to anything. I just want to make sure I am good and hear from some of you who have been doing it this way for years.

I am using a Taylor K-2006C test kit for all my testing.

Long time lurker, first time poster

I’m attempting to install an RJ45 Plus and I need some advice on the plumbing. My current setup comes up from the filter or heater as 2” and T’s off down into the primary return (1.5) and areator 3/4”. Picture below.
I was thinking I could just plumb in the cell vertically, put a new T and branch off the exact same way it is now - effectively just making the T taller
Does anyone have any experience with a setup like this? Can the cell be aligned vertically up? Any concerns about this setup?
Thanks in advance for your feedback!

Hi all, my first post here since actually registering. Really grateful to the community here.

I have a Rheem 406A Propane heater for a 15K gallon inground pool. Everything works totally fine in manual mode. I'm building my own pool controller based on a Raspberry Pi computer, an 8-switch relay, and some cool free software. Here's an example of the kinds of instructions I'm following.

I recently replaced the control board (a raypack 013464). The instructions say that you provide 24VAC on the blue wire, and then a path to common on either the black or the orange and that's how it knows whether you want spa temp, pool temp, or no heat. I've built this with my relays and it delivers what I think is the right electric signal in the right circumstances.

The problem is this: I put the heater into 'remote' mode (hold down temp up/down buttons for a few seconds). I trigger the voltage from my automation system. Nothing happens. I'll see 'remote. no demand' on the display. It never changes. If I take it out of remote mode, and I use the 'mode' button to turn it on/off and set temperatures, it works fine. E.g., putting into spa mode will spark and heat to spa temperature.

I took my electric meter out to measure the voltage at the heater. When I have it on, I see 28.8V AC on the blue/orange path (for example). Then I switch it and I see 28.8 VAC on the blue/black path. Then I turn it off and I see like maybe 1V AC. Interestingly, when I have 28.8 VAC running across one circuit, I seem to have about 10 VDC running on the other. At least that's what I *think* the readings show. (The "AC" on my multimeter disappears, and about 10.1 V appears on the display). That's weird. I don't know if it's an incorrect reading, related to my problem, or just spurious information.

Below is a wiring diagram of how it looks. If relay 7 is active, 24VAC flows from COM to NO ("NO" means normally open). Power then passes via relay 8. Either it goes over the NC (normally closed) path, which is the orange wire for pool temperature, or it flows over the NO path to the black wire, indicating spa temperature. If Relay 7 is off, no power flows at all. This seems like the right wiring. But the heater doesn't respond.

Anybody have ideas what I should try next?

So yesterday out of the blue, my pool pump was not on. I checked the breaker and it was tripped. I reset the breaker and it tripped instantly. The pump is wired to 115v. I removed the 2 wires from the pump and turned the breaker back on and the breaker remained on. I checked the voltage at the wires by the pump and was getting 115v with the voltmeter. Reconnected the wires and turned the breaker back on and it instantly trips. So I’m guessing something is wrong with the pump. The pump is only 3 years old. Any clue on what I could check next before buying a new pump??

I’m pretty sure I will need to replace by pool pump .
I currently have a pool Sta-Rite , Dyn-glas pump??
If I get a variable speed pump will I need an electrician to install it or new electrical work ? I just spend loads of money on electrical for our heater I don’t want to do any more!
I just want to swap out the pump , do I need to buy a certain type to do this?