Have a 15k gallon inground pool in Florida and was built in 1972 using gunite, has been resurfaced with fiberglass. Fiberglass is delaminating, I think, so getting quotes and trying to figure out if we should go back to a quartz or pebbletec or spend an add'l 6-8k for fiberglass

Fyi, finally got this installed and running. Here are my real-time Taylor numbers, just before hitting GO.

Sodium: 3,600
CH:470
PH: 7.8
CL: 8.0
CC: 8.0
TA: 750
CYA: 100 (yes, high, been fighting this but it's been coming down)

How do these look? Any feedback or advice? I find the Taylor CYA test to be quite subjective based upon lighting.

Hey Y’all! So great to meet you! It’s been a joy getting to be connected in this community and learning from each of you. My husband and I are building our first pool! We are so excited.

Today, our PB’s team came in to dig the trench to install plumbing and removed the peg board from around the gunite shell. When they removed the pegboard around our spa, there was plumbing exposed that I THINK (I have no actual idea) was supposed to be inside the spa walls. Is this something I should be worried about? I’ll attach a picture below!

Thank you all so much!

Hi Guys,

Getting a new error message here. "Chlorinator Off Sensor Fault" & "Cell Door Open." I haven't touched the thing.

To be quite frank, i'm stressed and busy with work so i'm about to call pinch a penny to come out and diagnose because I don't have time to be troubleshooting. But I wanted to come here first to see if it's an easy solve. Only troubleshooting I did was look at the wires (nothing out of the ordinary) and unplug/plug the SWG cell cable from the Goldline Remote board.

To be honest, we've had the pool/house for 2 1/2 years and I have never once cleaned the cell ( didn't even know that was a thing until recently). I don't know how old the unit is but i'm almost positive it's older than 2 1/2 years.

Other than that, water temp has been about 90F lately (according to the remote). The salt water is indicated at 3200-3300. My taylor test came out to 3600-3700 Saturday so not too far off.

Any idea?

Hi All,

I am a second year pool owner and I am looking to get some insight on what FC Levels I run in our pool.
I have a CYA at 50 and I have a noticed over last 2 years and when FC < 10, more around 6-8 range we start getting a white haze and eventually cloudy pool.
I have done SLAM multiples times and typically it passes in 1-2 days it becomes crystal clear.
Currently the pool is sitting at FC 10 and as per pool math FC should be between 2-8.
I know as per TFP for SWG I should have CYA around 70-80, I have intentionally kept it around 50-60 range as our pool stays covered most of the time.
Recommendations from other pool owners will be helpful.

p.s. in early June we went on vacation and I intentionally left pool at SLAM level for 2 weeks to prevent returning to cloudy pool

Hi All,
We picked up a used Swim Spa and converted it to run on propane so we can run it year round in Connecticut. The kids love it. We have had two hot tubs in the past, one Cholrine the other bromine, and they worked fine, enough.
Fast forward to this 2,500 gal tub, I'm having a hard time keeping the pH down, adding MA 31.45% twice a week aiming to get a pH of 7.0 to get the TA down - and its been working, we are at 110 down from 210ppm a month ago after the initial fill. First question - is this normal? it feels like a lot of acid, ive been second guessing myself if theres something left over from the "swim spa" heater that could be causing the pH to climb back up?
I've been supplementing with liquid chlorine while I dial in the SWG, and when the water has gotten a little hazy, bc the FC was low (at one point it was 0 because I forgot to turn the timer back on) it would clear up overnight with LC. I just did a test and FC is still over 5, for but the water is a little hazy.
The tub gets used about 2 hours a day, the rest of the time its covered with a standard heavy insulated spa cover. I flushed the tub with bleach and water after doing the conversion to propane and salt with 500 gallons of clean water, ran the jets and everything for a few days before pumping it out and having it filled. Haven't had to add more water in the 6 weeks its been used but rain water does get in from between the two covers.
Second question- aside from the MA and LC is there anything else I can do to clear up the water? does having the temperature at 95-99 have any effect on this?

Thank you for all your help!
George

Hello I recently renovated our pool area and installed Artistic Pavers Ivory. There has been an issue of some browing around edges, most notably under the covered lanai where it is more moist. They are assuring me it is because the pavers are still drying. 12x24 and 24 x 24 pavers have been installed 9/5/2022. Has anyone else had experience with this? the manufacture rep is saying it is do to moisture and give it time.
Any comments will be appreciated. Thank you. Overall I am very happy with the install and product I am just concerned about longevity? The pavers have been laid on existing concrete crushed concrete and river rock with an overlay of Masonry Sand over all the mediums. I will send more of the finished layout if people in the forum are interested.

So…my spa emptied out one night and I figured there was some debris keeping my diverter valve open. I remove actuator and pull out the diverter assembly and it looks like this:


So I purchased another diverter valve assembly for $80…and within two days it happens again:



First, anyone know what causes this? The inside of the valve is smooth. Could it be I need to lube up the inside of the 3-way valve? Not sure what to try next. Any guidance appreciated!

Hi All -
I had originally started this thread, back in 2019: Pool Build - Arlington, TX

Unfortunately, that project fell through, and thanks to COVID, parental health issues, we got delayed.

We're about to start the process over, and we're looking at getting a 16x37 fiberglass pool installed, and I'm wanting to get input into current trends in pumps, filters, lighting.


I'm debating again between DE filter or sand. My desire is to have low maintenance.

I'm also looking for automated vacuums/scrubbers.

We're having an initial meeting with the builder tomorrow to identify placement.

Pump motor comes on and switches off at random times. At one point when I noticed this I tried to turn the switch off and on but the motor wouldn't move. Then, I let it sit for a while and and tried again. It came back on. I thought it was the capacitor so changed that. Same behavior. Now, I'm wondering if it's the motor. Is this a common failure mode? It's a Ceturion single speed motor from 2003.

I'm thinking of adding a stenner pump to automate adding muriatic acid to my pool, and am wondering if I can use my Intellicenter to accomplish this. I have a GFCI switch on the side of the control panel that I could purchase a wifi timer for, but would prefer to tie it into my existing pool automation if possible. My setup is as follows (adding a picture as well, but the wiring is so messy that I'm not sure how much it helps):

120V 20A Breaker (Top)
Load wired to control panel transformer, and to the line of the GFCI outlet.

240V 20A Breaker (Middle)
Load wired to both heater and primary pump, and to line of aux1 relay.

240V 20A Breaker (Bottom)
Load wired to lines of aux2 relay, which are "daisy chained" to lines of filter relay, which are daisy chained to water feature pump.

Filter relay
Nothing coming out of the load ends, and is just a connection point between the water feature pump and aux2 relay line wires.

aux1 relay
Load ends wired to booster pump.

aux2 relay
Load ends wired to air blower.

aux3 relay
Line end fed by GFCI load, and daisy chained to aux4 relay's line end. Load end wired to pool lights.

aux4 relay
Line end fed by aux3 relay. Load end wired to spa lights.

I'm no electrician, but my initial thought is that the aux4 relay could be free'd up by running both the pool and spa lights off a single relay and have them turn on and off together.

So I made an impulse buy of one of the above ground vinyl pools with absolutely no previous knowledge or experience. I am pretty sure from reading the forums and researching the internet I have mustard algae. The pool was testing well (according to strip tests, I have ordered the in depth test reccomnded by the community) and then we went on vacation... and came home to what looked like sand in the bottom of the pool. Since we don't have an abundance of sand in the yard I thought it could be the metals from the well water we used to fill the pool as before we left I added hth metal scale powder.

So I have been cleaning the pool every day, spent endless hours and money buying different types of vacuums for fine sediment removal and when those didn't work I tried creating my own filter to add to the vacuum. I tried everything I could find on the internet yet everytime I would vacuum I could see the "dust" billowing out of the vents on the vacuum. So I decided to run the filter 24 hrs a day for a couple of days and readied the initial dose of pool clarifier. The water remains cloudy and everyday when I change the filter out there is this yellowish slime covering it. I want to slam but I'm such a novice I don't know what all the chemicals listed really are.

Can anyone link or post a list of what chemicals I should buy? I know ph up and ph down chlorine stabilizer shock and alkalinity up. I currently use chlorine tablets in a floater. I guess if someone could help me out with a shopping list I could use to order exactly what I will need to properly slam when the test kit finally arrives? I have attached pictures unfortunately I have just stopped running the pump so I can show a picture of the sediment when it has time to settle. If have inly seen this sediment on the floor of the pool not the walls and it doesn't stick to the pool brush like some guy in a video on youtube Said it should if it's algae.

Hello all,

I am new here and really need some advice. I have a 15 year old 28' x 14' roman style pool with spa. It is ~15k gallons. I received quotes to replaster and they are pretty disparate. One company that admittedly doesn't have the best reputation quoted $8k to replaster with color. Another company (a certified PebbleTech installer) quoted me $13,500 for replaster with color and $18k to upgrade to PebbleSheen.

I am just trying to figure out if this $5500 discrepancy for the plaster is bonkers. After recieving quotes, I found out I do not want to use the company that quoted $8k and we likely want to go with PebbleSheen, but $18k to replaster a relatively small pool seems pretty crazy, but I do not know the state of the market.

Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hello, I've visited your site in the past to troubleshoot issues with our pool. Thank you so much for all the resources! This year, in the beginning of June, I had to do the SLAM procedure. When I initially started, I only had test strips. The alkalinity seemed very high as well as the pH from the test strip comparison. During the process I did purchase the K-2006C Test Kit so I could get accurate #'s. Also, during the process I added 3 gallons of muriatic acid 3 different times. Things cleared up, but I seem to not be able to get the alkalinity/pH in check.

My test #'s 7/12/23 are FC 5.2, CC .2, pH 7.6, TA 150, CH 200, CYA 30. I think the alkalinity is still high, the pH seems to always drift up. I have added another 10 lbs. of dry acid... my husband's suggestion to use instead of the muriatic acid. I just can't seem to bring the alkalinity down to the ideal range. Last night, sometime after adding the second 5 lbs. of dry acid, I retested and the alkalinity came down to 140 ppm/pH 7.2... but it's back up to 150 now. Yes, I do have cloudiness.

Seems like I'm adding water from our outside faucet (city water) every other day or so. I tested the water that I add to the pool, it was TA 200ppm. Not sure if it matters... I was just curious what the alkalinity was that I was adding to our pool.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

I left our new (to us, 2 year old total) pool alone for the last week and got back to the following results:

FC: 8.5
CC: 3.0
CYA: 75
PH: 8.2
Alkalinity: 100

The CYA and FC are right where I want 'em, and I was able to get the Alkalinity & PH on track with a little MA. What in the world is going on with my CCs though? I'm wondering if I'm testing wrong (using 10 ml sample w/the TF-Pro kit. 6 drops / 0.5 = 3.0). Am I messing up the test, or is it time to SLAM?

I have followed the SLAM method. I did it last week, went to mustard algae level shock, brought chlorine back down, then saw more dead algae. I started again Sunday night. I meet the 2 requirements to be done, but I continue to see the white dead algae in the mornings, even though it is a small amount (sometimes one quarter size spot). I have not seen live algae in over two weeks. I vacuum to waste every morning, brush, backwash, cleaned everything, threw away floats, etc. my levels have been kept as follows:
FC 18-24
CC 0 - .2
Alk 130-150
Ph 7.4-7.8
CYA 30-50 (currently 40)
CH 240
Fiberglass, SWG, Taylor test kit (testing several times a day and have gotten store test)
What else??? Will the dead algae stop appearing?

Prior to really focusing on my water chemistry, this scale formed around my water features. Also during construction and landscaping, the brick and mortar leached onto my stucco.

What ideas do you have to take care of this?

Ok anyone out there able to help me troubleshoot my Intex pump?
Stopped working the other day. We have been having horrible heavy rain lately here on Oklahoma. Found it with breaker tripped.
1. Tried reseting the GFCI plug and when I go to turn it on it immediately trips it again.
2. Assuming it got wet up in there I open it up to let it dry out even though I couldn't see any moisture.
2. Next morning put it back together and try it. It would turn on and say it's work but no pump sound or water moving. Took it back apart and sire enough a connector was loose and put it all back together.
3. Tried turning the motor and it still moves freely so I dont think its seized.
Now it's tripping immediately again. I've tried looking at videos and posts but not finding any that match this problem exactly.
4. Off one recommendation I replaced the GFCI plug. It ran for about 10 minutes and then tripped again. Now it's back to tripping immediately.
Help!

Hi I have a 6500 gallon salt pool.

I noticed the chlorine levels were getting really low so I replaced the salt cell with the same model, a Hayward T Cell 925.

I can see that’s it’s working because there are small bubbles coming from the water jets and everything looks good on the aquarite control board.

I tested the water and the chlorine was really low so I’ve turned up the percentage dial.
I ended up going to 100% and the chlorine is still crazy low.
I took a sample of water to a shop

pH 7.6
Alk 69
CYA 71
FAC 2
TAC 2.6
CH 306
Pho 0
FE 0
CU 0.1
Salt 3200

Water sample was taken from the return jets.

Any ideas why it’s so low? With a new salt cell I should be making lots of chlorine especially with it set to 100%.
I’m in Orlando and the water temp is 87ish
Thanks

Hey friends, typically I have no issues with my pool (or no issues that I can't solve easily by balancing, cleaning and patience). My pool is an above ground, vinyl liner, salt water pool. Chlorinator is cleaned and operating normally, Pump and cartridges have been cleaned and are operating normally.

Here are the specs :
Salt level 3,400
Total hardness 650 (definitely too high)
Total chlorine / bromine 2 ppm
Free chlorine 2 ppm
Ph 7.7
Total alkalinity 160 (slightly high?)
Stabilizer 60 (slightly low?)

Water is cloudy, but the correct color (not green). I've tried shock, I've tried clarifier, I've been checking the chemical levels often and the only thing that really stands out is the high hardness. The pool has been cloudy for about 4 days and does not seem to be improving. I use a filter on my hose when I fill my pool, because our area does have hard water. It's clear that the filter may have met it's usable life and I've purchased a new one for future fills.

Any suggestions? I've included a photo of the water and the equipment. Location is Southern California if that helps.

I am a new home owner with a above ground pool, for me it’s the first time even understanding what parts are there and how a pool actually works.

Facing a lot of issues as a newbie

Hi all,

We recently had our pool refinished. We went from standard plaster to a pebble finish. And it has been the remodel from Hades.

The current problem is that the pool finish is rough, very discolored and getting worse. I suspect it wasn't properly acid washed in the beginning...? What the contractor wants to do now is shut down my pool equipment, dump a high level of acid in the water and let it sit for a week or so to eat the surface layer. After which, they would come back and neutralize the acid and restart the equipment. Then we would be required to maintain higher, but supposedly safe, level of acid to prevent it from turning white again. We've monitored our water chems with the LaMotte 2056 ColorQ Pro 7 Digital Pool Water Test Kit daily and also had it checked by our local pool store every few days to be safe during the startup process. Everything has been good. And yes, they did try to blame the water chems initially.

Has anyone experienced a situation like this before, or have any thoughts or recommendations? I have concerns about this method, the safety of the pool water, the damage it will do to the pool surface in terms of its longevity, my equipment, etc. I've had so many problems with this company I've lost all confidence in them.

The Calcium Hardness in my nearly 3 year old plaster pool was always steadily maintained in the 350 to 400 range. So much so, that I haven't checked it in the last 3 months. That is, until it started to get a bit cloudy and I ran a complete chemical check using the TFP test kit. It is now 750! I know I have few options on lowering it and am considering either RO or draining. (I am also considering a stain control chemical and maybe a flocculant to remove some calcium to see what they can do, but I doubt it'll make a dent in lowering it).

But before I do anything, can anyone tell me what would have caused this sudden increase? I don't want to incur the burden of remediating this without knowing if it'll happen again because of something I'm overlooking.

Thank you.

The filter replacements for Pentair DE line are expensive, close to half the price of the filter which comes with cartridges, around $130 per cartridge. There is a brand called Optimum sells a 4-pack on Amazon for a few hundred. Does anyone have experience with replacement cartridges by Optimum or companies other than Pentair brand?

I've got a Heyward Pentair filter for an 18k gallon pool we inherited with the house we bought last August. When I backwash I have to put the hose over the exit valve hole and clamp it down with a metal adjustable ring. Not to mention I have to stretch the hose quite a bit to get over the little bit of the valve hole that protrudes out from the spider valve, and more often then not when I go to send the water out the pressure kicks the hose off making it a wet mess. I see the inside of the exit valve hole has threads for a reducer to make this easier. Why the previous owner didn't have one I have no idea.

What I can't figure out for the life of me is what this part would be named and where can I get one? Is it just a PVC reducer? Is it specific to the filter?

Going through SLAM.

1. Cleaned the pump filter last week
2. Backwashed and re-filled DE
3. When I dumped DE into the skimmer, I noticed white powder coming out of return jet (not the typical salt-based Chlorine)
4. Just opened and saw this - I think everything is intact

Not sure why DE is not "sticking".....I have done the filter cleaning 1-2 times a season...will check whether I have any damages / rips in the media but when I was washing those filters last week, didn't have any. Any inputs / advice is greatly appreciated, as usual!! Struggling with numerous issues this season.....unbelievable...

I’m looking to see if there are better things out there to clean my cartridge. I was looking at something called the Aqua Comb attachment for cleaning cartridges. It sells on Amazon. Right now I just use hose without any attachments. My question is are these types of attachments that have these “fingers” - are these actually supposed to be placed in between the pleats? Thinking that could separate the pleats and make cartridge less effective?

I have an Intellichem that shows Label P/N 521349 Rev B. The LCD has gone bad due to sun exposure. Can I easily replace just the screen, using this?


A new PCB board is $500, so I'm hoping the above is an easy swap?

Thanks.

Hi all,

I just unboxed this heat pump:


Hopefully it's right-sized for our modest setup and anyway, it seemed overboard to me to get something 3x the cost of the pool itself, and we don't have gas or 220V readily available. Water is already sitting at 82 degrees without it and the thought is we can get a few degrees boost when needed or stretch out pool season a bit. One review was from a fellow Chicagoan, albeit with a smaller pool, but I was encouraged by that.

I welcome general thoughts/opinions, but also wanted specifically to ask -- I've noted that it has 1.25" connections. Our pump output has a 1.5" connections, and I've also seen a review that mentions that this heat pump noticeably restricted flow for them. I wasn't sure if that was going to be the case for me given how basic the pump we have now is. My thought to correct this issue is to buy two of these:


And attach the 1.5"output of the pump to one of them, and the 1.5" output of the pool to the other one. Then I will join these two parts by adding a 1.25" hose straight through on one pair of the 1.25" connections, and then add the heat pump between the other pair.

My question is would this potentially starve or reduce effectiveness of the heat pump? and then on the opposite end of the spectrum, is this overkill and should I let it ride as is or could restricted output potentially put some strain on the filter pump?

Thank you!

bradgray said:

I have no experience with heat pumps, so others will have to chime in.

We have a lot of chillers on our routes. Glacier brand. They technically work, but we hate the maintenance on them.

I second Maddie's suggestion. If you can add a neat feature, you'll have some visual candy with a purpose!

Click to expand...

Brad, I don’t want to hi-jack this thread, but I would be interested in more detail on your maintenance experience with the Glacier chillers. We will be using ours for the first time this summer. What do you recommend for preventive maintenance and operating tips besides what is in the operating manual? Thanks, Mark

Moved from here.