Pump motor comes on and switches off at random times. At one point when I noticed this I tried to turn the switch off and on but the motor wouldn't move. Then, I let it sit for a while and and tried again. It came back on. I thought it was the capacitor so changed that. Same behavior. Now, I'm wondering if it's the motor. Is this a common failure mode? It's a Ceturion single speed motor from 2003.
Intermittent pump motor
- Thread starter gaajar35
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,469
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Sounds like the motor is overheating and the overheat protector switch is opening. With it running do you feel hot air exiting the back vents? If not the fan could have broken or come loose. Are the vents, both front and back clogged. If you have an amp-meter you could check for high current draw, but a twenty-year old pool motor has had a very long life.
There is some hot air flow from the bottom (I think that's where the vents are on mine). I know variable motors are required in CA, but I presume I can replace it with the exact same one if I can do it myself. How easy/hard is that to do? Also, the same motor will avoid rewiring/controls etc. Any recommendations on dual speed or variable speed motors? I will definitely check them out.
Might work, but realize that in normal operation a pool motor with a properly working fan, and not overloaded, runs at about 140-150 degrees at the outer case. Too hot to keep your hand on for long. That's not because of the air temperature. Don't be too disappointed if it continues to shut down, though maybe not as often.
All that heat that you are paying for is the inefficiency that a VSP or a variable-speed motor goes a long way to eliminate.
Which pump? Brand and model? Do you have automation?
Will be hard to get anyone to sell, or ship to, you a single-speed motor because of the California regulations on pool motors. Regardless of the motor you install, there will be wiring involved, but not a lot.
Jandy JHP1.5 is the pump model. I do have DIY automation. I'm using Lutron Caseta switches driving relays that turn motor on and off from app/schedule control.
- May 3, 2007
- 16,952
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
VS is required in all US states. In fact, you probably will not be able to buy a single speed or dual speed pump anymore unless it is very small (Intex size).
Pump uses a C-Frame, threaded shaft motor. A Nidec Neptune NPTT225 will bolt to that pump (with new shaft seal and any needed O rings). It is a stand-alone self-contained motor, having a built in control (timeclock and timer) that gives much control over speeds, times, etc. Not likely compatible with your DIY system.
Century EVC225 will also work and allow some control with your system. The programming options are limited to the ones built in but you would likely find one that works for you. They even have California settings designed to really comply with the full regulation. Both will save energy (money), especially if you are in PG&E country.
Thanks for the help! 2 more questions:
1) Any reason to choose a 2.25HP motor over my 1.5HP version? Looks like EVC165 is available for a bit less. Haven't looked at the other one yet.
2) Should I replace the pump also? I expect it is also 20 years old
1) Any reason to choose a 2.25HP motor over my 1.5HP version? Looks like EVC165 is available for a bit less. Haven't looked at the other one yet.
2) Should I replace the pump also? I expect it is also 20 years old
You existing pump is 2.25THP, you should see that on the motor or a SF of 1.5 somewhere on the label. Put the smaller one on the existing impeller and it will burn up. You could try to get a 1hp impeller (1.65THP) but the extra cost and the fact that they are difficult to find (at least in my area) would not really be worth it. The optimum route is with as large a total horsepower VSP you can get and then slow the water down for the best in water quality and energy saving. Since you have a 2.25THP impeller, the best is a motor with that rating. Putting a larger motor on it without changing the impeller is no good, either.
FYI (not that I'm disagreeing with the advice) Looks like INYO says dual speed is Title 20 compliant. They also don't seem to be restricting single speed motor sales to other states.
A.O. Smith 1.5 HP Full Rate Two Speed Motor W/ Timer - Round Flange (B977T, B2977T) - INYOPools.com
Nothing is as good as new except new. Have never been a fan of Jandy pumps, but they work. To get something comparable as a complete pump will cost double or more the cost of a motor. There are several posts about other brands of VSP at low cost, but I prefer to stick with the bigger brands as that's what I can obtain through my suppliers and I know that, if a warranty issue arises, it will be cared for.
Add the cost of a 2-speed control and you will see why it isn't recommended much. And, most 2-speed replacement motors, in my experience, have not lasted as long as they should.
- May 3, 2007
- 16,952
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
My comments were about new pumps, not replacement motors.
However, given California's new regulations, Inyo and other online stores will not ship a two speed motor to CA.
Ordered the EVC225 and Jandy seal kit. Installation instructions were sketchy but will search for videos. Thanks a lot for the help!
Finally installed EVC225. Installation wasn't as straightforward as expected because of differences in online videos vs the actual motor/pump I had. The pump seal plate bolts wouldn't budge. Took lots of WD40 and elbow grease but got them out without breaking anything. Then, cleaning the threads so they'll go into the new pump also took some time. Could've just bought new ones but an online check at both HD and Lowes didn't show them in stock. Another issue was the shaft seal, how to remove it, etc. It'd have gone a lot quicker knowing what I know now. In any case, all done.
Now, I have it set to operate at 1100 RPM (vs 3450 at full power). SWG is not complaining about inadequate flow and my skimmers are collecting the surface debris, so all looks good.
One item I'm noticing at the lower speed is the amount of small bubbles the SWG actually produces. I can see these through the SWG clear housing as well as small bubbles constantly coming out of one of the pool jets. Weird that only one jet has the bubbles. It's not air because I ran the pump at full power to pull all the air in the lines out. Is this normal?
BTW, old motor was actually running fine at night. I was especially diligent to keep the skimmer and pump baskets clean of debris.
Now, I have it set to operate at 1100 RPM (vs 3450 at full power). SWG is not complaining about inadequate flow and my skimmers are collecting the surface debris, so all looks good.
One item I'm noticing at the lower speed is the amount of small bubbles the SWG actually produces. I can see these through the SWG clear housing as well as small bubbles constantly coming out of one of the pool jets. Weird that only one jet has the bubbles. It's not air because I ran the pump at full power to pull all the air in the lines out. Is this normal?
BTW, old motor was actually running fine at night. I was especially diligent to keep the skimmer and pump baskets clean of debris.
- May 3, 2007
- 16,952
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
That is normal. It is mostly Hydrogen gas. Mine burps occasionally as the gas can sometimes collect in the pipes. I have four returns and the bubbles only come out of the furthest return.
Well thank you again the good folks of TFP. I've learned more about the pool in the last 7 months than I did in the last 10 years. Not sure I wanted to know all this but at least it's not as much of a mystery. 