I've got a new Bullfrog spa that came with the Frog @ ease system. I may switch to Dichlor/bleach after I run out of the free chemicals I got with the new spa, but for now I'm gonna keep using the Frog.

I get consistently low FC readings, although Frog claims you only need 0.5-1.0 FC with their system. My question is: when I use the taylor daily FC/pH comparator block with the R-0600 reagent, the FC initially tends to read very low, but if I let it sit for 2-3 minutes and look again it reads significantly higher (e.g. it might read lighter than 0.5 initially but look more like 1.5 in a few minutes). Is that expected? Are you supposed to read it immediately and I should disregard the higher measurement?

I understand that the CC measurement isn't particularly meaningful for the frog system but I thought FC should be reasonably accurate.

My remodel was finished, and my pool filled today. I finally turned on the EasyTouch Panel and started trying to configure things - I didn't want to try anything out before and risk turning the pump on accidentally while it was empty. However, I cannot figure out ANYTHING on this panel! I shouldn't have worried about turning the pump on accidentally, because now I can't even figure out how to do it deliberately. The pool builder told me I'd be able to download an app and manage things that way, which would be good enough until I can figure out the schedules in the panel, but I can't figure that out either. Am I really dumb, or is this beyond confusing? I'm an IT professional so I thought it'd be relatively simple, but so far I have managed to:
1. turn on the light by pressing the relay button for it (don't know how to change colors or modes, though)
2. turn on my water feature pump (a simple single-speed pump on a relay)
3. set the date and time on the panel

Does anyone have experience configuring these things from scratch? I am utterly stumped, and the manuals I have aren't helping, either.

Right now, our pool water is hovering around 95 degrees, and to me, it is unpleasant to swim in.

So, is aeration effective at lowering the temperature of the pool? And, even if it does, am I just increasing my pool costs by further raising the pH (by adding to the aeration already caused by my SWG) and increasing the evaporation rate?

Another tangentially related question: Does the pool temperature affect chlorine loss? I know that chlorine loss is usually either due to sunlight and/or being used when combating organic material. But, I didn't know if temperature played a role too.

Hello everyone!

I've been a lurker for many years here and am finally posting my first thread!

I am in need to replace the spa light and unfortunately the cord is not long enough to do the work without draining the spa. I did some digging in getting this done and it seems that my system does not have an automatic drain function. I am assuming that I can still do this by manually manipulating some valves as there seems to be a couple of drains at the bottom of the spa.



I have solar heater, electric heater, and a spa heater. Below is a picture of my piping in hopes that someone can assist me with the process. I am a newbie when it comes to this and I am hoping that someone can assist me with labeling what each lines is. There seems to have been labels on some of it, but it has since faded away. I noticed that there is 3 automatic valves but I can only see the right-most one moving when I switch between Pool and Spa. I listed what is already labeled or seen but have no idea what everything else is doing.



1. From Solar
2. To Solar
3. From Pool
4. To pool
5. Pool related, manually closed. What could it be?
6. Pool related, manually opened. What could it be?
7. Assuming to be Spa as it closes when in Pool mode.
8. ?
9. ?
10. ?
11. ?

Also, what the heck is the black cylindrical component behind the electric heater on the wall?



I know I may be asking a lot, but my pool guy is never around when I'm home and he's somewhat of a flake with these inquiries.

Please let me know if there's anything more that is needed to determine the spa draining process or what some of the lines are.

Thank you so much in advance!

Alright so I have (2) Jandy PLC 1400 SWCGs... I'm only going to focus on the second PLC 1400 for now.

6/12/23
Noticed intermittent error code 123 (only in Reverse Flow, though it's intermittent, so the code isn't always showing every single Reverse Flow mode).

6/14/23
Replaced black power cord going to the cell.

6/15/23
Still showing intermittent 123 errors.
Replaced SWG cell unit (with Jandy/Zodiac brand).

6/17/23
Still showing intermittent 123 errors.
Ordered new back PCB board.

6/20/23
Still showing intermittent 123 errors.
Replaced back PCB board.

6/23/23
Still have not seen any 123 errors since replacing back PCB board. (checking 2-3x per day) - 3 days now, no 123 error

6/28/23
Still have not seen any 123 errors since replacing back PCB board. (checking 2-3x per day) - 8 days now, no 123 error

7/1/23
Still have not seen any 123 errors since replacing back PCB board. (checking 2-3x per day) --11 days now, no 123 error

7/2/23, 7/5/23, and 7/6/23
Suddenly seeing intermittent 121 errors - What the heck.....!?!

To recap so far I've replaced the main SWG cell unit, the power cord, and the back PCB. (I did not replace the Tri-Sensor Interface Module (since flow detection isn't an issue, there hasn't been any reason to)
Stumped here. 121 seems less problematic than 123 was but still doesn't make any sense why I'm getting that suddenly.

ANY IDEAS? (tried to call Jandy support today -- automated message of, "We're too busy, please try calling tomorrow".
Do I need to buy one of those Clamp Meters to be able to verify voltage and amperage during the error-free conditions versus when it's reporting the intermittent 121 error code?


Troubleshooting reference from install guide...



Thankfully my other SWG is still error free for now (was getting 171/189 codes on that cell (fixed by replacing the back PCB) and then later was getting 120 errors (fixed by 50/50 acid washing cell))

Hi there! I live in central Texas, and it’s crazy hot. The water temp on my 7k-gallon pool is currently 96 degrees, and I’d like to utilize aeration overnight to cool the water.

I bought a PVC waterfall/aeration setup on Amazon: Amazon.com

I hooked it up to my return jet per instructions, and expected the spray to reach several feet into the air like product review photos showed for other pool owners. Womp womp, the spray is more of a sprinkle that barely extends one foot.

I don’t understand what is different about my pool/install vs. the success other people seem to have with this product. The PVC valve window is closed, so I’d think that the max amount of water is flowing through the setup, and I turned my equipment setting to high in order to increase water pressure. Does anyone have a similar aeration setup or have any ideas? It feels like I’m just not going to be able to use my pool during the summer because of the uncomfortable water temp.

Hey everyone,

We just had pool krete installed on as the base of our flat bottom inground pool. They trowled it out, and everything looked “fine” to my knowledge.

After the pool krete had set, the installer filled some uneven spots with dry pool krete to help level those areas out.

Today the liner went in and we started filling it. I jumped in tonight to check something in the pool as it was halfway filled and was shocked to find how gritty, and sandy it was under the liner. I’m not looking for a glass floor bottom, but I don’t want to feel the grit from the pool krete.

The pool is halfway filled and I’m waiting on the installer to get back to me about what to do. Is there ANYTHING to remedy this now? Or am I going to have to replace the liner again and pay someone else to fix this?

Any advice you can provide quickly would be SO helpful!

Good morning, I just remembered that my electrician told me a while back that he didn’t think my pool was bonded and suggested that I have a “water bond coupling” installed so that he could run the bonding wire. Any idea what part he is referring to and where it needs to be installed? I asked a couple of local pool companies and they didn’t know what I was talking about. I have a good size vinyl liner pool and have no idea if the pool itself is bonded. I am pretty sure the motor is not bonded though as there isn’t any wire attached to the bonding screw. I assume it needs to be bonded as well?

Hello fellow pool owners!

Most of you are probably in the northern hemisphere and enjoying some nice and warm weather. It's a bit colder here in Sydney, but based on the mild winter we're having, I have a feeling we're going to have a hot summer!

Anyway, my question relates to some fine dust like particles that always settle at the bottom of our swimming pool. The only way I can seem to get rid of it is to vacuum to waste, but it just comes back in a week or two.

I'm wondering whether anybody else might have had similar problems and what they did to get rid of it. I don't think it's algae. We have large native trees surrounding the pool, so it might be something coming off the trees perhaps?

Anyway, interested in your opinions.

Hi! I saw this thread with what I think is a similar issue, but wanted to see if anyone has any other thoughts.

I've got an LRZ (2013), and recently it had a Check IGN Control Fault appear, so I had my regular pool guy come out to try and resolve. He changed the IGN board I believe and the fuse, and checked the volts. It worked for a bit, he left. Over the weekend, it came back up, so he came back out with another fuse. Changed it so now both fuses were changed, voltage there, left. It happened again while I had it on after he left. I noticed that it basically went wrong when it got up to 88 degrees (supposedly) in my Screenlogic app, which was about it being on for 10 minutes.

The pool guy noticed that my PG&E gas meter isn't sending enough gas to the heater (250), as the heater itself is intended for 400K BTU . He pointed it out because he thinks that soot has built up due to this, which would require an intensive and costly cleaning. His advice here is to just buy a new heater.

Is that really my only solution? Does anyone else have any other suggestions? So far, this has been a costly attempted repair, which of course puts me in the could-woulda-shoulda mindset of maybe I should've just replaced instead...but hoping there's still some good news here on what I can do!

I will reach out to PGE about changing the meter to allow more gas, but I'm really even thinking about whether or not I can invest in an electric pool heater (I think my pool is 30K gallons), but he said that no such electric heater exists (haven't done the research really, just was an idea since we have solar).

Thanks in advance (and sorry if I got some of the terms/lingo wrong here!!)!!

So I was gifted a use intex pool (10' by 30") and I shocked it yesterday using 2.4 ounces of clorox pool shock plus, and this morning I tested the water and the chlorine levels are still 0, but the PH has suddenly dropped. Yesterday when I tested the chlorine was 0, and ph was 7.2. But today after using the shock the chlorine is still 0, but pH is showing slightly lower than 6.8. I don't know what I'm doing wrong. The water was cloudy yesterday but a little better today. And I can smell chlorine so idk why it isn't showing in my testing kit. Never owned a pool before so idk what to do. And my kids are dying to swim but I don't want to let them until I get thus figure out. No one has swam in it since we set it up

We have the attached system. As you can see the inspect cell light is on.
Using my TF-Pro test kit, it says I have 3,200ppm salt in the pool.
We tried pushing the diagnostics button. When we did that the number on the box went from “2.20” to “29” and when we pressed it again, it went to “31.7”. And when we pressed it again, it went to “0.0”.
I am not sure the last time the cell was replaced.
If we need to replace the cell, is that something we should attempt ourselves or leave to a professional?
CYA is around 55/60.

Our in-ground has a Paramount Paralevel autofill that has been an equipment bane since initial installation.

We have a "smart" water meter that sends alerts when gal/hr water flow exceeds a preset amount. 99% of the time, when we get these alerts, it is related to our auto-fill system and shutting it off at the main valve generates a "Leak Stopped" message within the hour.

The issue typically arises after we have an extended period of heavy rain and the autofill will stick and run continuously. I've wet-vac'd any debris out, and have replaced o-rings in the past and that seemed to help, Lately though, it hasn't seemed to make any difference.

Of course, I've considered that it's running due to evaporative loss, but we previously had it set to keep the level right below the overflow and didn't get any leak alerts for several months. Now, we are overflowing water at the same level setting. If I run the float all the way down below the pool, it still runs. I've checked the integrity of the float and there doesn't appear to be any cracks or water holding within.

Curious if any Paralevel owners have experienced the same and what, if anything, remedied the issue.

Ok I've been running a pool for a couple of years. TFP has been amazing, SLAM process works, I've been super successful following everything. However, we went away for 10 days, the water evaporated below the pump line so the SWCG didn't work. So I ended up with a green pool. So, I know the process, SLAM etc.

However, at this point in time I'm really struggling, before I went away we had 80 CYA, it went to 0 CYA over 10 days (I'm using TFPS test kit), my chlorine is literally being demolished. I turned of the SWCG to start the SLAM process, which I've been doing over 5 or 6 days, but literally, my chlorine is being consumed at a ridiculous rate. So my immediate thought was ammonia. So I got a test kit, and it tested 0 Amonnia, which is encouraging (albeit this is after adding 166 FC in chlorine, with no CYA in it, just in case). Last night I put in 3 more gallons of liquid chlorine. That should take my pool up to 18FC, but this morning, I was down at 2FC.

So, I could be nearing the end of the process, but any tips, advice or wisdom based on past experiences? I'll update my new stats here shortly.

Folks, I am first time pool owner, lots of anxiety about self maintaining the pool. Previous owner after the close rented the property back for a month. They stopped their pool service and now, we are in process of renovating the place. So essentially no water treatment for about 2months and pool has turned green. As soon as I move in, in a week's time, I will start working on the pool myself. I am trying to make sure that I understand what equipment is installed. Below is what I have and then I will describe my struggle:

- Filter: Pentair FNSP 24
- Pump: IntelliPro VS-3050
- Booster Pump: Boost-Rite LA-MS05
- Suntouch P/N 520784
- Pool vaccum: Polaris P39

There is no solar, there is no heater, no spa. All I am trying to figure out is how can I set schedule for the pump and pool vaccum. I have done following setup that I believe is relevant for my use case.

Advanced 8/14 -> System Mode: Pool/Spa, System Type -> Single Body
Pumps 12/14 -> Intellifo VS -> Circuit Setup (1-8) 1-pool, Assign Speeds (1-8) 1-RPM 2000
Schedules 4/14 -> Schedules: [LOW, HIGH, AUX 1-3, FT 1-4]
[Question 1] In Schedule, I do not see POOL, so does it mean that my pump is attached to AUX1? Can someone confirm please?
[Question 2] What about booster pump, is booster pump turns on along with main pump or is it connected to AUX2?
[Question 3] What about Circuit On/Off 1/14 Filter Pump: [Circuit ON/Off - Low: On/Off]? Do I need to do anything with this menu item or should I leave it OFF?
[Question 4] How does Polaris P39 runs? Does it run with booster pump? How can I control schedule of Booster Pump?

Any help will be much appreciated.

New homeowner, in-ground pool included. Built in 2004, approximately 20,000 gallons, plaster finish.

There are two pumps:

• Hayward Super 2 (single speed 2.2 HP) - This unit runs the main filter
• Hayward Super 2 (single speed 0.75HP) - This unit runs the water feature (the water feature is three lion heads that have a stream coming out of the mouths, much like a hose)

The water feature pump is leaking and the motor bearing is loud. My local pool guy is suggesting a variable speed pump but I am asking myself, why?

I totally understand changing out the main filter pump for variable speed which would be much more efficient and likely save on energy costs. However, when it comes to the water feature I don't ever see a time where I would need to adjust the speed. The fountain is either on or off and only when I'm using the pool. Wouldn't a single speed 3/4 HP replacement be a cheaper option? I don't feel like I'm gaining anything by going with variable speed.

To second that thought, would a Hayward Super pump (W3SP2605X7) be a worthy replacement or is there something to gain by keeping the unit a Hayward Super 2 pump (W3SP3005X7AZ)? Both are rated at 3/4 HP.

We've been silently lurking and watching all you've built here at TFP. We here at Pool Magazine consider this website to be an incredibly valuable resource for pool owners and industry pros alike. We're happy to join the platform and contribute to this incredible community in any way we can. Pleased to be a supporter and look forward to being part of the conversation!

I had my pool replastered 2 yrs ago, they broke the fitting for the spa jets. Ths fitting is ok but the value jet inside was broke. They put new jets in and now when spa is on the water bubbles up the air vent line. I remove jetts and it runs fine.

Any ideas or how do i get the right jet.

Pools is Anthony & syslvin 2004 model, with hayward parts

Thanks for any advice

I have noticed quite a few bubbles coming out a jet in our pool. Did a pump inspection and replaced the clear lid and O ring and no more bubbles! Today we have bubbles again. Checked the new part, used some magic lube on O -ring and no change. I pulled the drain plugs on pump and added a little thread tape, still bubbles. Checked the skimmers and weirs. All normal. I see no leak at any pipe union when starting the pump or turning it off.
The only thing that has happened is torrential rain and now the water level is higher than the skimmer holes. I know low water level can cause air to get sucked in, but could too much water? Could not think of a reason it would but nothing else has changed.
Any input would be appreciated.

Hi everyone, I’ve been trying to find the answer to a question I’ve had for a very long time now. Hopefully someone can answer it for me. I have a San Juan fiberglass pool with a SWG and have been following their chemical recommendations for years. The problem is when I have an issue and have to go to a pool store or research the issue online. The pool store says to use South Carolina DHECS parameters and not San Juan’s. I go online to trouble free pools and the numbers are so different than the other two, I don’t know which one to follow and if I do follow the numbers on this site why are they so different from the pool manufacturers?

San Juan Trouble free pool
Fcl: 1-3. Fcl: 4-6
PH: 7.2-7.6. PH: 7.2-8.0
Alk: 125-150. Alk: 50-90
CH: 175-225. CH: 220-320
CYA: 30-40. CYA: 60-90

Which one should I follow, and please explain why so I can understand. Thank you!

Anyone have any experience with this pump(all pumps) and 8 FIXED schedules?

The VGreen Evo™ motor is a cost-effective variable speed replacement pool pump motor designed to provide pool owners with maximum savings over traditional single speed motors. The variable speed design allows the motor to be programmed at the optimal settings for the pool allowing for energy savings. The VGreen Evo motor offers ease of installation with direct drop-in replacement for all applications and features an easy to program user interface to allow for a simplified user experience, making it the perfect choice for your next pool installation or motor replacement.

The VGreen Evo™ motor is equipped with two sets of energy efficient operating schedules: Schedule Set A and Schedule Set B. Schedule Set B is California Energy Commission 2021 Compliant. The 8 pre-programmed operating schedules for the Schedule Set A can be seen in the table below. To select this set of schedules the dip switch positions must be set to, #3 OFF, #4 OFF. SCHEDULE SET A SCHEDULE PRIME (WHEN MOTOR STARTS FROM A STOPPED POSITION) HOURS 0-2 HOURS 2-4 HOURS 4-6 Schedule 1 (Factory Default) 3 minute prime @ 3450 RPM 3450 RPM 2750 RPM

I have read many articles on this forum (thank you!) about GFCI breakers tripping on VS pumps. I have a Mechanical Engineering and Energy Engineering background and many years of construction experience including electrical. I am by no means an Electrical Engineer and not even a licensed electrician but safe to say I could wire an entire home. Maybe no enough to be dangerous. So here is my story:

Pool ALMOST completed and filled two months ago. This has been a long battle around contract commitments and a pool builder that would cut a corner to save a dime. I did win many battles with the plumbing and pumping being the biggest accomplishment. It is not rocket science and there is plenty of quality information online to get the piping sized and installed correctly and with energy efficiency in mind. Thank goodness for variable speed pumps so that we can offset this absurdity by oversizing the pumps. Anyway my pumps are oversized but I have automation so all is great. Now to my problem. 240V 20A GFCI Eaton breakers tripping almost daily. These breakers are shared with other items such as heater, 2 blowers and oversized ozone generator (battle for another day). Electrician wired with 40 amp breaker in main panel to subpanel located by pool equipment. Subpanel has two 240V 20A breakers and one 120V 15 amp. Here is the detail:
(a) 240V 20A Breaker A - Jandy 2.7HP Epump + 2-1HP Silencer Blowers = 15.7A full load. This is dedicated to the 12 jets in the 2800 gallon spool. Pump set at max speed 3000 RPM since it will slide off the end of the curve thanks to the 3" piping.
(b) 240V 20A Breaker B - Jandy 1.65 HP VS FloPro + Heater + Ozonator = approx 15A full load. This serves filtration, heating and sanitization.
(c) 120V 15A Breaker C - Aqualink RS8 + all actuators, 4-12W Hydrocool and 15A outlet.

Originally electrician had wires doubled on the 3HP relays in the Aqualink some on line side and some on load side. The power runs through the relays to all devices. I have since added additional relays to put each piece of equipment on its own relay but circuit power is still shared as described above. I have been moving things around trying to troubleshoot during the journey.

The key problem is breakers GFCI's only tripping almost daily. The one to the 2.7HP trips more often but it had not actually tripped with everything running. I have read that power should be dedicated to pumps, direct to pumps, on Siemens only breakers, grounding conversations and lots of it must be wired wrong thoughts. At first it seemed like the spa jet pump was always tripped when I tried to use it in the evenings. I started to establish a pattern that they tripped in the heat of the day and when reset in the evening they would run with no issue until the next afternoon. This subpanel is located on the brick wall on the West side of my house in North Texas. As it got hotter, GFCI breakers tripped daily. I even chased down whether humidity was the factor. I spoke with multiple electricians and a licensed PE who did not think that temperature should be the issue. Weather has stabilized enough that I could rule out most everything else so I thought I would try just putting a blanket over the subpanel to provide shade and to minimize the radiant heating. The breakers have not tripped in the last 36 hours. This is the longest they have gone since it started getting hot.

What am I missing? Seems like this would be a very common issue for a subpanel to be mounted on a West facing exterior brick wall. I found no information that referenced this specific issue. I am looking for all perspectives because it is really difficult to enjoy and maintain water chemistry (also another issue I am battling for another day) when my pumps keep tripping the breaker. Any insight or opinion would be welcomed and I appreciate your responses. Thank You!

I'm looking for some creative ways to clean fiberglass stains at various depths without damaging either the pool or myself. My pool installer recommended undwater abrasives like underwater sand paper, but doing this by hand will take forever.

I am thinking of some of the following with I saw here:
1. Using an air powered sander (harborfreight) with a pole attached
2. Using a gas powered pressure washer. A little concerned that the pressure might be too great and cause damage to fiberglass?
3. Using a gas powered weed eater with sand paper attached to end

Anyone have any experience doing this?

First post here. Been reading through and learning.

So my wife and I are considering building a pool. We had our first consult and worked through a design. Got the quote and were blown away at the cost.

Here's what we are looking at:
We are located in north texas 3 kids early elementary
Rectangular pool with autocover (non negotiable)
Salt water
Heat pump/chiller
No spa
Raised beam/water feature
Sr smith slide
1050' of decking
Pentair products, vsf, automation (but old system need to talk to them if we move forward)
Ect

So after getting the quote and seeing the cost it's got me rethinking everything. do we need a slide, do we need a raised beam, do we need a pool!

The pentair 140 h/c is 10k after installation. I am hesitant to use gas because we have buried propane that is our central heat and is expensive. However, maybe with the cover and being Texas I could use gas and use it to get the temp up earlier in the year and with the cover use it sparingly.

Then I have gotten on a tangent that if I am going to use a gas heater maybe I should look at a spa as well. Wife wants a spa, I don't care. I think it might help with resell down the line. But of course adding a spa probably won't reduce my already sticker shocked price.

if i get a spa, with the cover, should we do it sunken into the pool interior? Or raised?

Then I think maybe no heater and see how it all works out. But then running propane or electric later would be under a huge amount of new concrete.

Now maybe I'll just scrap the whole pool and take another vacation!!!! Analysis paralysis. Give me some help please

Bought Walmart liquid chlorine to use. When selecting sanitizer type in the pool calculator which do I select? Tricolor, dichlor, Cal hypo 48%, 53% etc. I don’t see anything obvious on the bottle. Does show 10% chlorine on the bottle.

I am having trouble balancing Ph and Alkalinity in my fiberglass SWG hot tub.
Borate is 45. I am maintaining Ph at 7.8 with Alkalinity of 30. When I raise alkalinity with baking soda Ph rises. Lowering Ph lowers Alkalinity. Any suggestions?

I have the same issue. I cleaned it out and it’s back…it’s hard but turns to a paste in fingers when squished..like wet chalk almost. What is going on? I kept finding blue stuff in the bottom of the pool and realize my chlorine generator wasn’t working after levels kept going out. I stripped the chlorine generator down and found this blue gunk build up pressure washed it out put it back together 24 hours later it’s building back up.

Moved from here.

I'm in a weird place with an insurance claim and in need of a certified pool contractor that would be willing to write a statement that I could submit to my insurance company. I am willing to compensate you for your time. My situation is as follows... When opening the pool, while the water was still low from the winter, the wind pulled the cover and concrete blocks into my 18x36 inground vinyl liner pool. The insurance company is willing to cover the loss of the liner, but that's all (not even the pool damaged base that had been submerged in water). This happened 6/13/22 and I had a heck of a time getting any contractors to even come look at the damage because they were all so busy with new installs after covid. Finally got someone out 5 weeks later and told me that because of all the pool water escaping and erosion of backfill to the inside of the pool that the metal walls would be too unstable to guarantee pool wouldn't fail once refilled. The only way he could warranty his work would be to completely rebuild the pool. The insurance company sent out a forensic engineer over 3 months after the pool had been setting empty and he stated that the walls hadn't shifted, so it was ok to be repaired. The liner was still hanging and there was no way he could determine that. I finally removed the liner and have plenty of images showing the wall are out of plumb and bowing. So what I am looking for is a certified pool contractor to state that after a metal walled pool has sat empty for a certain period of time it cannot be repaired, but must be rebuilt. I have plenty of images that demonstrate soil compaction under the walls has been compromised and that hydrostatic pressure from the ground water has compromised the structural integrity of the walls. We can discuss the particulars outside of the forum. PM me for my contact info. Praying someone can help, thank you!

New to this community. Had some algae problems last month, had to drain and refill then to Leslie's to get water tested. I know, invested in a water testing kit after reading tons of posts in the forum, the pool school threads and browsing around. The pool is clear but FC (.3) is not staying in and TC is about 2.5. This all after last week it was
FC 3.95
TC 3.95,
PH is 7.5,
TA is 86,
CH is 127 (little low),
CYA is 42

This week I had no FC in it so something is eating it. Guessing the algae is still around, even the pool looks great. I have been putting in 2 lbs of trichlor a day until I can get some liquid chlorine. I know I have to SLAM it, waiting on my test kits to arrive especially the FSA/DPD so I can get accurate readings. Until Then I plan on keeping the chlorine high (about 2 gallons to get it to 17 and add daily until those tests arrive. Anything else I should be doing besides brushing the walls, vacuuming and running the pump 24/7?

Thanks in advance,

I am losing the little hair I got left. There is air in the pool, and the pump is not priming all way (1/3 of the pump basket has no water), and yes, the water level is mid-level to the skimmer. To try and fix it this is what I have tried:

1. Replaced the pump. The old was over 15 years old. The new pump is the INTELLIFLO3 VSF VARIABLE SPEED AND FLOW POOL PUMP
2. . All the seals were checked, and no air leak was detected (tested with water and smoke)
3. All the connections and values were replaced. Again, all the seals were checked, and no air leak was detected (tested with water and smoke)
4. A professional checked every line for obstructions using air and water. Again, nothing.
5. The skimmer was checked for air leaks, and nothing was found. However, it is the only piece of equipment that has not changed.

Does anyone have a suggestion that I still need to try?

JP