Glacier Chiller Maintenance

markdpratt

Gold Supporter
Dec 24, 2020
115
Lake Charles, LA
Pool Size
14650
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I have no experience with heat pumps, so others will have to chime in.

We have a lot of chillers on our routes. Glacier brand. They technically work, but we hate the maintenance on them.

I second Maddie's suggestion. If you can add a neat feature, you'll have some visual candy with a purpose!
Brad, I don’t want to hi-jack this thread, but I would be interested in more detail on your maintenance experience with the Glacier chillers. We will be using ours for the first time this summer. What do you recommend for preventive maintenance and operating tips besides what is in the operating manual? Thanks, Mark

Moved from here.
 
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I saw the title and as a Glacier owner for well over 5 years I was intrigued. Other than cleaning leaves out of the basin every Spring when I open the pool, and then draining the basin, hosing the chiller off, and putting a tarp over the it when closing in the fall, I don’t have any regular maintenance for our Glacier.

As part of non-routine maintenance, I once had to reattach the pump in the basin, as it is connected to the outlet port using PVC glue. Guess the factory skimped on the glue. That occurred shortly after it was installed and it has held up ever since. Right around year 5, I had to replace the fan motor. I run the chiller for 16-17 hours every day during the summer, so I probably put more stress on the motor than most.

Neither repair was difficult. I’m not the handiest when it comes to stuff like that, but was able to manage each repair on my own.

As far as how well it works, the Glacier saved our pool. Our water temp would hit 95° around July 4 and no one wanted to get in the pool. It’s rare for the water temp to reach 85° now. You don’t have to keep it that cool. That’s just the way I like it. 🙂
 
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Maybe this will help get Brad's attention..... @bradgray
The product itself works well. I really can't speak ill of it's effectiveness; it's just a whole extra set of moving components that all have to work in tandem, all the time, for the device to be useful. As a service company, it's that much more to maintain and repair over time. This was the point of my other comment - hopefully it doesn't impact your view of your investment.

I remember the manual being pretty detailed as far as how to use. The only real regular 'maintenance' happens when we drain them during winter months. As a homeowner who's willing to learn the system, I don't think you'll have issues. That said, I am admittedly a bigger fan (pun intended) of water features for cooling; especially sheers, but you have to run them forever and you can't run them at night if you have a cover. Conversely, a chiller can work while your cover is closed and is in fact when they want you to use it *(overnight)*.

I would suggest protecting the blades on top with extra wire mesh. We have a client who has a chiller below a large messy tree. The blade makes wonderful smoothies of all the tiny fruits and seeds it drops into the unit.

*The running overnight thing is tricky; if the sump pump stops working, the basin will overfill. You can't gravity drain standing water back into a pressurized system, so that pump is critical to getting it back into the plumbing. We've had one go bad before on a very new unit and it overflowed for a little while before the guests noticed the water. My official recommendation is to use it when you can watch it. But I'm highly risk-averse.

EDIT: The other gripe I do admittedly have, is the aftercare. You have to go through your installer for warranty and support, and there were a lot of exclusions. I remembered the fact that it was a salt pool being an issue on the one with the failed sump pump.
 
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We call those swamp-coolers around these parts. Similar physical principal just a slightly different setup for air cooling as opposed to water cooling. They work well enough during the dry months but, once the humidity kicks up, they’re all but useless. The biggest issue with swamp coolers around here are calcium scale and biofouling of the moisture wicking pad. If you don’t add any chemicals to control scale and bacterial growth, the insides of a swamp cooler can turn into a deadly Petrie dish of mold and bacteria.

Do you see a lot of scale build up on these Glacier units?
 
We call those swamp-coolers around these parts. Similar physical principal just a slightly different setup for air cooling as opposed to water cooling.
Haha yessir - my first thought at the first one we onboarded. I actually thought it was a clever adaptation, and then we ran it, and it was instantly annoying and I knew it'd be trouble for us.
They work well enough during the dry months but, once the humidity kicks up, they’re all but useless.
+1. They work better in the west for sure. Our summer humidity is less than 20% most days. If not, it's usually because of a monsoon storm. I would be interested to see if Glacier has a performance curve for humidity.
Do you see a lot of scale build up on these Glacier units?
YES. But not an amount that seems to impede its usefulness. The oldest one we have is 3 years and we've done no real cleaning of the grids or wands. But we also don't use them really all that much. Only a few pools have needed it during large use gaps when the cover was on 99% of the week, for weeks. Even then, we'd run them for an afternoon and then shut them off. It would cool them off a solid 5 or 6 degrees or so each time which was all we usually needed. Granted these aren't huge pools. All 20k or less.
 
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if the sump pump stops working, the basin will overfill.
True and probably my greatest concern. I usually program mine to come on at 3 a.m. each night and I’ve worried about the sump pump failing, but it hasn’t so far. If we’re traveling, I shut it off altogether.
The biggest issue with swamp coolers around here are calcium scale and biofouling of the moisture wicking pad. If you don’t add any chemicals to control scale and bacterial growth, the insides of a swamp cooler can turn into a deadly Petrie dish of mold and bacteria.

Do you see a lot of scale build up on these Glacier units?
I hose off the grids every year when closing, but that’s about it. I’ve never noticed any scale, but really can’t see down between the grids. The grids are plastic and not “pads” like I’ve seen in actual swamp coolers. They don’t have any absorption qualities. I think they’re there to break up the water so that when the fan blows across them, it causes more evaporation. I have seen a very small amount of scale in the basin, but nothing that concerns me.
They work well enough during the dry months but, once the humidity kicks up, they’re all but useless.
I wouldn’t say useless, but there’s no question that the lower the humidity, the more effective it is. I live in the Dallas area and our summers can get pretty humid. Even when humidity is high, our water temp won’t get any warmer than 85°. Ambient temps are usually a little lower with high humidity, so that’s probably a factor. It really gets interesting when we have very low humidity. We had a spell last summer where water temp had dropped into the mid-70s and I had to shut the chiller off. 🥶 But I’ll take that over 95° water any day!
That said, I am admittedly a bigger fan (pun intended) of water features for cooling; especially sheers,
Believe me, I tried. I tried using the spa fountain combined with 4 of those PVC contraptions that spray the water back into the pool. I could get maybe a 4-5° drop overnight, but by early afternoon, water temp would be right back up into the 90s. Making things worse, the wind would blow the spray onto the surrounding landscaping and was killing it.
 
We call those swamp-coolers around these parts. Similar physical principal just a slightly different setup for air cooling as opposed to water cooling.
In the way back time, when I was a kid and houses here on the Texas Gulf Coast didn't have a/c, folks thought those things were going to be the ticket. They turned out to only be good wallpaper removers.
 
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Interesting thought - try chemically testing the sump water to see if the pH/TA/CH is much different than the input water.

The Glacier cooler just works on the simple principal of evaporative cooling. Pool water is sprayed onto the plastic grids to create a large surface area and the fan draws air up into the grids. As air passes over and around the water droplets, a small amount of water evaporates into the air stream. The latent heat of vaporization for water is actually quite large. In the 80-100F range, the latent heat of vaporization of water is roughly 1,000 BTU per pound of water. Relative humidity does affect that but the local airspeed around the droplet from the fan is quite high and so even humid air will absorb water.

It would be interesting to measure the water loss of the unit to know how much cooling power you’re getting.
 
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Interesting thought - try chemically testing the sump water to see if the pH/TA/CH is much different than the input water.
Interesting thought indeed! I’ll do that at some point this year.
It would be interesting to measure the water loss of the unit to know how much cooling power you’re getting.
If you mean gallons in vs gallons out, I don’t think there’s a practical way to measure that. I can say that water loss is significant, especially during low humidity periods. I sometimes have to fill the pool twice in a week.
 
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Probably the easiest thing to do is measure the inlet and outlet temperature of the water as well as the volume flow rate into the unit and then infer the amount of heat transfer going on.

But this is not unlike the water loss we experience here in the desert. During the spring and fall there is a period of time in which there is a huge temperature inversion - the water is warm, like 75F, but the overnight air temps are low and the RH is down to 20%. That makes the dew point temperature easily 30 to 40°F below the water temp. When that happens, the evaporation rates are high and the auto filler is running quite fast to keep the pool water level and you can easily lose 8-10°F overnight (especially if there’s any wind).
 
I saw the title and as a Glacier owner for well over 5 years I was intrigued. Other than cleaning leaves out of the basin every Spring when I open the pool, and then draining the basin, hosing the chiller off, and putting a tarp over the it when closing in the fall, I don’t have any regular maintenance for our Glacier.

As part of non-routine maintenance, I once had to reattach the pump in the basin, as it is connected to the outlet port using PVC glue. Guess the factory skimped on the glue. That occurred shortly after it was installed and it has held up ever since. Right around year 5, I had to replace the fan motor. I run the chiller for 16-17 hours every day during the summer, so I probably put more stress on the motor than most.

Neither repair was difficult. I’m not the handiest when it comes to stuff like that, but was able to manage each repair on my own.

As far as how well it works, the Glacier saved our pool. Our water temp would hit 95° around July 4 and no one wanted to get in the pool. It’s rare for the water temp to reach 85° now. You don’t have to keep it that cool. That’s just the way I like it. 🙂
What hours do you run the chiller? 7pm - 12 pm? When not running chiller do you run the filter pump during the hottest part of the day?
 
We call those swamp-coolers around these parts. Similar physical principal just a slightly different setup for air cooling as opposed to water cooling. They work well enough during the dry months but, once the humidity kicks up, they’re all but useless. The biggest issue with swamp coolers around here are calcium scale and biofouling of the moisture wicking pad. If you don’t add any chemicals to control scale and bacterial growth, the insides of a swamp cooler can turn into a deadly Petrie dish of mold and bacteria.

Do you see a lot of scale build up on these Glacier units?
I live in Houston where you’d be hard pressed to find a higher humidity city. I run My Glacier Chiller here every year. I get my water down to 82 deg where my wife then tells me to turn it off. It works excellent in high humidity. I only run it 10 hours a day..
 
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What hours do you run the chiller? 7pm - 12 pm? When not running chiller do you run the filter pump during the hottest part of the day?
Once summer kicks in and temps are regularly in the 90s, I typically run the chiller 3am - 8pm, which is the same as my pump schedule. After reading @Bvacchiano ‘s post above, I may try dialing it down by a few hours. Houston’s humidity is much higher than Dallas’s, so if he’s getting by with 10 hours, hopefully I can do something similar.

I swim almost every day during the summer, so I don’t let the water get above 83-84°.
 
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Living in the low humidity of the high desert, I only need to run the chiller to maintain a comfortable water temp during daylight hours. I would be too afraid to run it overnight when I could not see it or hear it. It overflowed on me once when I didn't have the 'don't stop' set in Intellicenter.

When the pool water gets to around 88 degrees, we start using the chiller, which is around the middle of May beginning of June, at least last year. Using the chiller during the day, I can maintain the water between 84 - 88 degrees. The air temp is upward of 100+ degrees, so even at 88 degrees the water is still very refreshing.
 
I saw the title and as a Glacier owner for well over 5 years I was intrigued. Other than cleaning leaves out of the basin every Spring when I open the pool, and then draining the basin, hosing the chiller off, and putting a tarp over the it when closing in the fall, I don’t have any regular maintenance for our Glacier.

As part of non-routine maintenance, I once had to reattach the pump in the basin, as it is connected to the outlet port using PVC glue. Guess the factory skimped on the glue. That occurred shortly after it was installed and it has held up ever since. Right around year 5, I had to replace the fan motor. I run the chiller for 16-17 hours every day during the summer, so I probably put more stress on the motor than most.

Neither repair was difficult. I’m not the handiest when it comes to stuff like that, but was able to manage each repair on my own.

As far as how well it works, the Glacier saved our pool. Our water temp would hit 95° around July 4 and no one wanted to get in the pool. It’s rare for the water temp to reach 85° now. You don’t have to keep it that cool. That’s just the way I like it. 🙂
this is my first summer being able to use the Glacier Cooler we installed (13K gallon pool) here in Phoenix and it is epic! I had same experience where I had to reglue the pipe in the basin (from the sump pump) but other than that it could not be easier. I had been a bit worried about running it most of the day (I run now at night) but sounds like from your experience you can just bang away. Right now (with heat wave)...overnight I get pool down to about 81 degrees by morning and turn off chiller. By 5 pm it is up close to 88 degrees...which is still a bit too warm for this time of year for us. Going to try and run it most of the day today to see if I can keep it in the 84 range. so glad we made the decision to install!
 
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this is my first summer being able to use the Glacier Cooler we installed (13K gallon pool) here in Phoenix and it is epic! I had same experience where I had to reglue the pipe in the basin (from the sump pump) but other than that it could not be easier. I had been a bit worried about running it most of the day (I run now at night) but sounds like from your experience you can just bang away. Right now (with heat wave)...overnight I get pool down to about 81 degrees by morning and turn off chiller. By 5 pm it is up close to 88 degrees...which is still a bit too warm for this time of year for us. Going to try and run it most of the day today to see if I can keep it in the 84 range. so glad we made the decision to install!
With your arid climate, you may be able to keep temp in the 84°, especially if your chiller or pool is shaded even part of the day. While my pool gets lots of sun exposure, the chiller is heavily shaded and never gets direct sun. If our humidity ever lets up, I can get the water down into the upper 70s overnight.

My greatest concern with unmonitored usage is the sump pump. If that thing goes out while running overnight, it will drain lots of water by the time I see it. I wish there was a way to close the actuator to the chiller if the pump fails. Even a float that could send a signal to close the valve if the water reaches a level higher than the pump float would work and wouldn’t be that hard or costly to engineer.
 
My greatest concern with unmonitored usage is the sump pump. If that thing goes out while running overnight, it will drain lots of water by the time I see it.
+1 So, I/we don’t run it when we go to bed. I am nervous enough if I run an errand and I’m gone for an hour or two.
 
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