Intellicenter app problem

This was a similar problem. Maybe it will give you some clues where to look.

New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

Keep a bag or two, or three on hand for the season. Then you can add immediately.
Also, to be clear, the cell does NOT consume salt. After it makes chlorine, is consumed sanitizing, it is returned as salt to the pool.
The test accuracy is +/- 1 drop for each 10 drops. You used 16 drops, so +/- 300ppm. Don't fret the variation.
Salt is only removed when you replace water (splashout, rain/pump down etc.)

New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

Will that level off or do I have to keep adding salt?
Let it be until the cell complains. My IC60 works down to 2800 then produces at a reduced output until shutting off at 2600. If you see your test at 2800, then add a couple hundred to beat it to the punch. But otherwise let it be.
And I finally have the pH where I want it now so TA should come down now too
You have to keep dropping it as it rises above 7.5. Each round will drop the TA a bit. Around 70 TA, switch to maintaining high 7s from 7.8 to 8.2. If you catch it at 8.0, drop it to 7.8
Anything else I need to do or am I in the home stretch?
Looking good. (y)

Intellicenter app problem

Tried to reset wifi and got a spinning wheel of death. Reset wifi, reset entire box. Still no connection.
Reset WiFi on the IntelliCenter panel?

Let's begin with some basics.

Your IntelliCenter link does not use WiFi. A Wi-Fi connection is used if you have the Engenius Wi-Fi bridge, which you do not have.

You have the 900MHZ Wireless link. It connects the IntelliCenter panel directly to your router not using WiFi.


You will only get flashing LEDs when you have a good network connection.

What network settings does your IntelliCenter show when you go to Configure Ethernet screen?

Please answer the questions I asked above about DHCP and your network submask.

New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

Question regarding chemical balancing. (See today’s results attached) my salt level is dropping a little. It’s down to 3200. Optimal level for my SWG is 3600. Will that level off or do I have to keep adding salt?

And I finally have the pH where I want it now so TA should come down now too. I just added a little under 4 pounds of stabilizer to get the CYA up to 70 and that will put the FC in the right spot. Anything else I need to do or am I in the home stretch?

I’m learning quickly thanks to you guys.

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Pool Opening Spring 2025 - Removing the Leaking Heater Manifold

And then as @Lake Placid warned Pentairs QC was not perfect. There was a drip from the 3/4" drain plug on the side. Wrenched that out and saw that the threads were hardly wrapped with Teflon tape. Removed Pentairs tape and put two good wraps of Telon tape, reinstalled, and no drips.
You found another common leak from the factory….they neeed a new plug installer guy on the assembly line. 🤣

Springtime isn Mississippi... what is this?

Still new to the pool world, still learning so much! I have been noting green bundles at the bottom of the pool, mostly in the deep end towards the drain. Water is very clear, no issues with chlorine. SWG keeping FC in the nine range. CC is consistently 0.0. CYA remains a bit low at 40-50, though I have added recently. pH tends to be in the 7.6-8.0 range. I add MA maybe every 4-6 days. Attached photos. The little masses seem to essentially cloud and disappear when disturbed by a net, though some is recoverable. The robot definitely is picking up a very slimy, gooey matted substance. Is this algae? Any actions I should take?

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Water softener salt

How about Morton Pool Salt? It costs normally 8.5 dollar
That is usually fine, but some folks last year reported staining after using it.

It is hard to say what the quality will be from batch to batch and year to year. Some of the major brands in the big box stores rely on their brand and price rather than their quality.
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Water table issue - wrinkles in liner

My 20x40 vinyl pool was built in 2020. 3.5' shallow end/6' deep end. Liner went in perfectly with no wrinkles. When I opened in 2021 I noticed some wrinkles/bubbles in the shallow end/lower step, clearly a water table issue over the winter (probably since water is lower in shallow end). Has been a repeat issue almost every year since, including this one. Just opened myself yesterday and some pictures from today are below.

Usually as the weather/water warms up I'm able to use a plunger to drag them out, and they don't reappear during the swimming season. But I don't love tugging on the liner (already had to repair one leak) and I'm hoping to solve the problem once and for all by addressing the water table issue.

I'm thinking two possible solutions:
1) My pool builder installed a gravel bed below deep end, with a flexible 2" pipe leading back to the pad (see 4th picture below showing white flexible pipe coming out of gravel near pad). Is there some way for that pipe to used in a way where water can *automatically* be pumped away in the winter if above a certain level?
2) Dig a vertical hole on one side of my pool near shallow end and install a 8-10" pipe, wide enough to drop a sump pump in there to drain the water away. Would conceal the pipe with a cover to make it look like a skimmer like this: Login to view embedded media Would leave submersible pump it in there in the winter a few feet down and the float would tell it when to turn on. Would not use in the summer when pool water level is high enough (unless massive rains are coming). Note there is compacted RCA around the pool so that is what I would be digging through to install the pipe.

Thoughts on 1 vs 2, or any other suggestions?

thanks

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