Which multiport valve do I buy?

Hello. We just started up our pool for the season and there’s a crack in our multiport valve by the pressure gauge. It’s leaking fairly significantly and it’s time we replaced it anyway. I’m not sure which one to get. I’m looking for some help with that. I attach the sticker that’s on the valve now. We have a Pentair Tagelus sand filter.

Since everything is original on the system, we want to also put in new PVC pipes and new coupling when we get the new multiport. Is this something that we could probably do ourselves or should we leave it to a professional? Thank you!

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Boric Acid Test

"there always seems to be a new crop giving it a whirl"?
Each year there's a dozen or two new folks wanting to see if it helps so they give it a try. (For a while there it was tons of people) Most see no difference than the Ph cycle i explained above.

We've had many borate rodeos, and we've learned to be indifferent about them.

Boric Acid Test

We had similar thoughts but they never planned out with some of our 400k+ members trying since 2007. There always seems to be a new crop giving it a whirl.

What we've found is they reduce the frequency of MA adds, but increase the amount at those times. One i was looking up for someone yesterday needed over 3X as much at their parameters. (22 oz to 77 oz ? I forget exactly, something like that) You'd be lucky if you added twice as much, half as often.
Not sure I fully understand what you're saying here? What do you mean by "there always seems to be a new crop giving it a whirl"?

Intellicenter app problem

This was a similar problem. Maybe it will give you some clues where to look.

New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

Keep a bag or two, or three on hand for the season. Then you can add immediately.
Also, to be clear, the cell does NOT consume salt. After it makes chlorine, is consumed sanitizing, it is returned as salt to the pool.
The test accuracy is +/- 1 drop for each 10 drops. You used 16 drops, so +/- 300ppm. Don't fret the variation.
Salt is only removed when you replace water (splashout, rain/pump down etc.)

New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

Will that level off or do I have to keep adding salt?
Let it be until the cell complains. My IC60 works down to 2800 then produces at a reduced output until shutting off at 2600. If you see your test at 2800, then add a couple hundred to beat it to the punch. But otherwise let it be.
And I finally have the pH where I want it now so TA should come down now too
You have to keep dropping it as it rises above 7.5. Each round will drop the TA a bit. Around 70 TA, switch to maintaining high 7s from 7.8 to 8.2. If you catch it at 8.0, drop it to 7.8
Anything else I need to do or am I in the home stretch?
Looking good. (y)

Intellicenter app problem

Tried to reset wifi and got a spinning wheel of death. Reset wifi, reset entire box. Still no connection.
Reset WiFi on the IntelliCenter panel?

Let's begin with some basics.

Your IntelliCenter link does not use WiFi. A Wi-Fi connection is used if you have the Engenius Wi-Fi bridge, which you do not have.

You have the 900MHZ Wireless link. It connects the IntelliCenter panel directly to your router not using WiFi.


You will only get flashing LEDs when you have a good network connection.

What network settings does your IntelliCenter show when you go to Configure Ethernet screen?

Please answer the questions I asked above about DHCP and your network submask.

New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

Question regarding chemical balancing. (See today’s results attached) my salt level is dropping a little. It’s down to 3200. Optimal level for my SWG is 3600. Will that level off or do I have to keep adding salt?

And I finally have the pH where I want it now so TA should come down now too. I just added a little under 4 pounds of stabilizer to get the CYA up to 70 and that will put the FC in the right spot. Anything else I need to do or am I in the home stretch?

I’m learning quickly thanks to you guys.

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Pool Opening Spring 2025 - Removing the Leaking Heater Manifold

And then as @Lake Placid warned Pentairs QC was not perfect. There was a drip from the 3/4" drain plug on the side. Wrenched that out and saw that the threads were hardly wrapped with Teflon tape. Removed Pentairs tape and put two good wraps of Telon tape, reinstalled, and no drips.
You found another common leak from the factory….they neeed a new plug installer guy on the assembly line. 🤣

Springtime isn Mississippi... what is this?

Still new to the pool world, still learning so much! I have been noting green bundles at the bottom of the pool, mostly in the deep end towards the drain. Water is very clear, no issues with chlorine. SWG keeping FC in the nine range. CC is consistently 0.0. CYA remains a bit low at 40-50, though I have added recently. pH tends to be in the 7.6-8.0 range. I add MA maybe every 4-6 days. Attached photos. The little masses seem to essentially cloud and disappear when disturbed by a net, though some is recoverable. The robot definitely is picking up a very slimy, gooey matted substance. Is this algae? Any actions I should take?

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Water softener salt

How about Morton Pool Salt? It costs normally 8.5 dollar
That is usually fine, but some folks last year reported staining after using it.

It is hard to say what the quality will be from batch to batch and year to year. Some of the major brands in the big box stores rely on their brand and price rather than their quality.
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