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propane tank size questions

Bill1974
Other than how much storage of propane you want the other thing that determines the minimum size of the tank is the maximum rate of propane usage. The tank needs to be large enough to absorb heat fast enough from the air or ground (if it's buried) to boil the liquid propane in the tank to a gas. In the warmer month this is rarely ever an issue unless a tank is grossly undersized. In the cold months, it's much more of an issue. The boiling point is low and the heat of vaporization is a decent. Once you get below freezing the air doesn't have many BTU's in it.

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Bill1974
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Bill1974
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Damaged Waterfall Weir

1
MichiganBruce said:
I just found this in a Jandy catalog. It sure looks like my waterfall, just flipped over and incorrectly installed.
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Did you have the "rain" effect or a "sheer?" The sheer is available here according to the website:
www.goodsunplay.com

Jandy 6" Extended Lip Sheer Arc Waterfall 1218CSA - Clear Lip - Online Swimming Pool Supply Store & Warehouse

Jandy 6″ Extended Lip Sheer Arc Waterfall 1218CSA – Clear Lip Sheer Arc Waterfalls can be positioned just above the waterline, no raised bond beam required, making it perfect for vinyl liner pools.The fall projects up from the unit at a 45 degree angle and then naturally arcs and descends to the...
www.goodsunplay.com www.goodsunplay.com
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propane tank size questions

P
Katodude said:
+1 on bigger is better. I have a 250 gallon buried tank and I wish it was bigger.

Not just that you can buy when propane is cheaper, but there is a fill charge every time they come. Around here that is $30-$40. So having to fill less often is valuable too.

Buy once cry once.
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According to the guy I just talked to, about 5-6k for 250, 7-8k for 500. Lots of money but I can use it for future remodel with appliances and water heaters. That includes dig, permit and pipe to where I want, regulators and $2.20g for the introductory fill. More than what I want to spend for sure. Will think about it.
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Boric Acid Test

D
What's your favorite boric acid test strips? I currently have Pool Check B03 that I purchased via Amazon.

It's really hard to tell exactly where my boric acid level actually is. According to the test strips, it indicates greater than 25 ppm, but less than 50 ppm. I've added 55# of boric acid from Duda Energy over 2-3 weeks, following instructions to the letter.

I use the TF-Pro Salt Test Kit 3 times per week, and my pool chemistry is as close to perfect as I can get it. The only wild card is the boric acid.

I'm not overly concerned because my pool water is fantastic. I'm a bit anal retentive with water chemistry after spending 33 years in the Hydronic HVAC industry. I like to be asaccurate as possible.
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CC - Wont go down!

H
JamesW said:
I would suggest at least 3 gallons per bather of water replacement.

For 70 people, that is a minimum of 210 gallons (0.8 cubic meters) of water replacement.

In about 100 days, you should have replaced the entire volume of pool water.
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We do a filter backwash already that uses about 1000L every 3 days, so not miles off that figure.

I think with the UV system, on demand after heavy usage like you say is the key, maybe running overnight and then in the morning we can restart the Salt chlorinator and do a liquid dose to bring it back up in FC levels..

Thanks for your feedback, replacement of water is bloody expensive when you heat it to 31 Deg mind!!
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Borates are Coming!!!!

PoolStored
melsteph said:
I battle high pH all year long so am hoping to stabilize that somewhat, as well as intrigued by the potential for more sparkle, softer feel, and hopefully some algae preventative.

Am I wrong?
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Sparkle is overblown. I don't notice the softer feel, nor does my family. Will not give you any algae prevention. The benefit of borates is to reduce the pH in the SWG reducing the tendency to scale.

Now that you are going to add them, you need to be able to test borates. See the borates article for Borates testing.

For you FC, you need to follow this. Keep your FC at the top end of the range for your CYA. Link-->FC/CYA Levels

pH rising is due to your TA and the TA of fill water. Borates may reduce the frequency of acid additions, but not the amount. You will still want to lower your TA to reduce the amount.

PH TA Relationship - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com

Lower Total Alkalinity

A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Lowering Total Alkalinity (TA) Quickly with the Acid Aeration Method

Thought I'd make a post that might help others. We've had quite a few members this year with high TA, and I've been typing the same information over and over. I'm going to post this so I can link it to help others. High TA can cause rapid pH rise. High TA is typically caused by high TA fill...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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Borates are Coming!!!!

Newdude
melsteph said:
Each year I have a goal to have a better pool than the year before
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melsteph said:
TC 2.5

CYA 60
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:(

FC is king. Nothing else matters if you get a swamp while pondering / doing it.

melsteph said:
Am I ready to add them, according to my levels?
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You'll want the TA about 60. It will take more MA to lower the PH at 100 TA.
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Newdude
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melsteph
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Pentair IC60 creates chlorine when first turned on and then flashes "inspect cell"

F
JamesW said:
Check the water temperature as shown in the video.

Disconnect the temperature sensor.

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Also, wouldn't it be reporting the salt level to the Easy Touch screen, which is showing me 4,350. I can check the salt level again with a drop test, which was at 4,000 before I added 3 bags of salt. My bet is that the salt level is being reported correctly by the IC60 at 4,350.

I'm guessing the SWG is just toast.
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