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Damaged Waterfall Weir

I have a pair of 18" waterfalls in a raised deck at the back of my pool, which was built around 2008. One of these waterfalls has been leaking, so I had the concrete above it removed to find the leak. The waterfall weir is damaged in such a way that the water can leak out the side of the weir (see photo). The damage looks like something that didn't just happen, and may have been leaking for some time (the crack in the concrete above it is one clue). I would like to replace this waterfall with an exact duplicate so that the output still matches the other existing waterfall. Unfortunately, after scouring the web looking at waterfall producers, I can't find anything that looks like this. My alternative is to replace both waterfalls with something new, but I'd prefer to avoid that option if I can, so I don't have to dig up the other waterfall. Can anyone help identify this waterfall weir?

Another option is to repair the existing waterfall weir by filling the damaged exposed side of the weir with pool putty. This would be like filling a 4" long by 1/8" wide pvc crack. Is Atlas EpoxyBond Pool Putty considered a viable long term repair solution for such a large repair? I'd like to feel confident before covering this waterfall with concrete again.

Input is appreciated.

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Adjusting Levels after SLAM

Chlorine is always king. Always follow this...Link-->FC/CYA Levels
To keep chlorine, you need CYA. 30-60 is fine. During summer, 60 will help protect FC.
Turn your SWG off when you add salt and wait 24 hours after adding to turn SWG on.
Maintain FC with liquid chlorine.
Your TA and pH are just fine.
Thank you for the quick feedback!

Grading and leveling

Hello my name’s Tim
I would like to install above ground pool off my deck without stepping down.
By placing 54” pool five foot off my existing deck I would be at pool height.
Issue is the slop or drop off on 15’ width is about 2’.
Not sure if I build retaining wall and backfill if that will support weight over time.
Asking if it can work , can’t find any information on this.
Thanks

Sun ledge/baja shelf build

not to hijack the thread, but we are also under construction, and I failed to figure out ahead of time what water depth our shelf would be (we are wherever the architect and pool builder defaulted to). The shelf is formed with rebar on the outside, with some untouched soil they excavated around inside, and we are already rebar-ed, so it is what it is. Concrete will be shot this coming Wednesday. It is built per plans which call for the top of the shelf to be "9 inches below beam". What exactly is "beam"? I read it is the top part of the concrete wall, where the coping will sit, where the waterline tile goes. If this is correct, this would mean that the shelf would be roughly 9 inches deep (from water line). Do I understand this correctly?

Small spot in FB gel coat

What do you mean "ate into the gel coat"?
If it is just a stain, put some vitamin C tablets in a sock and rub the spots, stain should go away.
Maybe post some pictures...
I used a brush on the spots and nothing happened. It looks like it went through the gel coat. I will try vitamin c and post pics tomorrow. I hope you are right and I get "pool stored"!
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Leaky diverter

Needed here - not for waste, per se, but for lowering the pool below skimmers/jets needed for winterizing.

Clean and lube no change. Everything looked perfect. It looks like the installer used a lot of PVC cement, with some inside the body. If things hadn't been good last year, I'd blame that...
The line for the pump to the filter, and the waste, was done by a local pool company when I bought the filter. All other plumbing was by me last summer.

How effective is a backflow for preventing reverse flow of air? Since the diverter doesn't leak water in normal operation, a good way to just prevent suctioning of air via the waste pipe would be a less work alternative....

HELP with Flashing Green Light

After testing with K1766 kit, recalibrating my digital, and pool store testing I found that the salt level was low, as expected. Each of the tests were within a few 100ths of each other, right around 2500ppm. Talked to a few pool pros and the consensus was the cell was bad. Since we've been here two years, and the cell mfg was 2021 it made sense, so I bit the bullet spent the money and now everything is working fine. Learned a lot from all of you folks who gave me suggestions.
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Adjusting Levels after SLAM

Good morning, I just finished my SLAM (16). My FC and CC remained the same overnight. Now, I want to start my SWG and get the other readings in normal range but I find many variations on this site as to the order. Pool Math doesn't state what order to adjust readings. Here's my latest readings as of 10:30 am today:

pH: 7.3
TA: 120
CYA: 30
FC: 16 / CC: 0.5 <<< This was my reading at 6:30 am before the Sun came up

Questions:
1. Wouldn't CYA need to get bumped up to help protect the FC?
2. I reinstalled my SWG but still need to add Salt as it's sitting at 2000.

Help me troubleshoot low FLOW issues....please.

First one is a long shot - have you verified the check valves are opening properly? Not a likely cause, but with the clear lids a visual inspection is pretty easy.


If you haven’t I’d separate the motor and the wet end. Perform a complete visual inspection of the impeller and diffuser for wear/damage. Rocks may have damaged one or both which could create the issue you describe. Small pebbles may also be lodged in the impeller veins.
Funny, I was going to post the same thing. I suddenly lost flow last season and had no idea why. When I removed the salt cell the season I finally discovered why...a check valve flapper broke free from the the valve and got lodged in front of the salt cell!
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Chloride production set at 80+%?

You have a "no Flow" warning.
What is your pump set at (rpm wise)?
You either need to clean your filter or raise your RPM. Or Both.
Or your flow switch is bad.
The cell will not make chlorine with a no flow warning.
I did noticed the no flow and was suspicious....I will call the pool guy and see whats going on
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Filter